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Used vehicle prices

mi223

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 14, 2017
815
431
West Michigan
What are used vehicle prices doing in your area?

I have needed a new work truck for a while but refused to pay the crazy inflated prices. I have been watching a few truck rot away on the dealer lot at a crazy high price. I am just starting to notice a few trucks show up here and there for reasonable cost.

My theory is dealers are not giving crazy trade values anymore so there is a few trucks on the market that they haven't overpaid for. The old stock don't seem to move but new stock seems more reasonable. Anyone seeing the same or different?
 
Down a bit in my area. Opposed to in Columbus, OH where the Honda dealer was bragging that they were the only ones in the area to charge MSRP (and not above). We just purchased a 2020 (36k miles) a few weeks ago and the price was fair. The problem with us was inventory. We qualify for employee pricing (FIL is retired Honda engineer) but no Honda dealer will honor it right now because the little inventory they have, they obviously don't want to sell at a discount. Otherwise we would have bought new. We also wanted a Honda Passport in the TrailSport trim, but ended up with the Elite because that is all they had. I think once inventory goes up, you'll start to be able to get better deals.
 
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Almost nothing new on the Toyota lot here in SW Oklahoma.
 
I am getting to the point I need to get a new work truck pretty bad. I have been holding off for over a year. I just hate to finally do it then the values drop way off
 
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I am getting to the point I need to get a new work truck pretty bad. I have been holding off for over a year. I just hate to finally do it then the values drop way off
I doubt you'll see anything dropping significantly soon. I would say watch the lots. When you see a lot more inventory, it will be easier to get a better deal used. They haven't been getting much from the factories, which means there hasn't been a lot of new vehicles pushing older ones off the lot. I have no idea if there is still a chip shortage or not.
 
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doesn't look like much movement yet
looks like the car industry is playing a game of chicken to see who will flinch first and drop prices

give it 6 months, financing is starting to dry up

Layoffs are on the rise

1674584156481.png



The cockroaches in the car industry are about to get hit with a mega can of raid
 
If you can hold off for a couple of months, the prices are going to go down a lot. I am noticing more and more dealer lots getting full and even some of the manufacturers are giving out low interest rates. Soon it's going to be back to preplandemic prices of 10-12k off on some trucks and vehicles. Never buy at over inflated prices and never buy at sticker prices.
 
Definitely seeing more new cars on lots in middle Georgia and significantly more used cars on the used car lots. I suspect that new car dealers are slowing down on buying used as they finally are getting new. I am still waiting for realistic pricing - want to replace my 2015 Ram 1500 with new/newer but I can wait
 
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If you can hold off for a couple of months, the prices are going to go down a lot. I am noticing more and more dealer lots getting full and even some of the manufacturers are giving out low interest rates. Soon it's going to be back to preplandemic prices of 10-12k off on some trucks and vehicles. Never buy at over inflated prices and never buy at sticker prices.
That would be my suggestion. I have a dear friend who is finance manger for the largest Toyota chain in Virginia. Got me a 2.9 % loan on a new corolla Hybrid in Feb. of last year, the high point of the shortage.

She says now is the best time to sell as prices are still high, but in 6 months that will change dramatically.
 
I would like to get a more fuel efficient coyote-mobile .... My 2012 Tundra is probably getting 12-13 mpg on my short trips and running around in 4wd.

A lightly used tacoma with 4cyl engine would be nice, but those are selling/listed for a premium around here. I check the local dealers website occasionally, and their prices are still exorbitant in my humble opinion.

As posters have suggested, I think I will wait...
 
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There will be very little change in Financing / Used Vehicle Prices / New Vehicle prices in the next 12 months..
What will happen is Americans with a little cash set aside for a replacement vehicle will spend that cash making repairs on the vehicle they have. Then they don't have money for a down payment when push comes to shove.
Dealers, both new and used, will be allowing so little on a trade in vehicle that the buyer will just take the old beater home and park it in the back yard.
If you took just the vehicles that are "Publicly Owned" (Federal, State, Local, etc) and traded them on a new vehicle, that would support the auto industry and allow them to make a nice profit. Google it in and see..
The very worst time to buy a vehicle is when you are in a bind like in a wreck / traveling / need to get to work / broke down on the side of the road and in front of a dealer. Or, let your AAA card expire.

Face it ... There are mega computers running 24 / 7 in those "Data Centers" that are figuring the odds on beating you.
All they have to do is beat you 51 out of 49 situations and you are a loser.

As said above, there are always exceptions to the rule.......Maggot

Buy a set of tools, a shop manual on your vehicle, a pair of coveralls and just take care of maintaining what you have. But, again, as S3th has said "The lazy American would rather open his wallet than his tool box"....

2023 will see a lot of people expend their resources.

JMHOIMG_8196.JPG
 
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Buy a set of tools, a shop manual on your vehicle, a pair of coveralls and just take care of maintaining what you have. But, again, as S3th has said "The lazy American would rather open his wallet than his tool box"....

2023 will see a lot of people expend their resources.

JMHOView attachment 8056625
Its not always that. Vehicles have gotten so sophisticated most folks cant work on them. Yeah, I can change a tire, or oil, take off or put on a simple part, but thats about it. When it comes to computer diagnostics, Im out of luck. Many newer vehicles have parts manufactured that you cant get the proper tool for...so you have to bring it to the garage.

An d good point on the odds, thats how Vegas stays in business. Your odds of red/black are cut by 0/00.
 
car sales is always a race to the bottom in a normal market.

As long as there are cars to sell, one dealer will beat the price of the other, in order to make a deal. However, when new car production dried up because of allegedly 1) covid-precipitated lack of parts 2) the chip issues and 3) the Ukraine war which prevented certain necessary raw materials from getting to manufacturers, then demand was greater than supply and all the rebates went away and all the discounts down to invoice and below also went away.

and the elephant in the room is that manufacturers are being told that they WILL produce less ICE vehicles and phase them out by 2030, and pick up production with electric.

more expensive and no-inventory new cars made the used car market go crazy. Prices doubled in some cases, which is insane. some used cars with 20 or 30k miles went for more than the selling price of a brand new model because the new ordered one would take a year or more to come in.

so I can't predict when prices will go back to normal, if ever. it's all supply driven. once you begin to see full car lots, expect better prices. empty lots, high prices. the gas and interest rates hit car sales, but people still need wheels and they are still buying.
 
What’s going on with your truck? Can you do a engine swap or tranny swap?
First off I live I Michigan, so rust is the first issue. I am getting by with my current truck. It is an 01 and I would like something a little more presentable. It's getting to the nickel and dime stage at 180k. Seems like every few weeks it's another repair

Last week I did a service call at some giant house on a golf course. They had a paver driveway that had designs in it. The old truck looked pretty out of place lol
 
car sales is always a race to the bottom in a normal market.

As long as there are cars to sell, one dealer will beat the price of the other, in order to make a deal. However, when new car production dried up because of allegedly 1) covid-precipitated lack of parts 2) the chip issues and 3) the Ukraine war which prevented certain necessary raw materials from getting to manufacturers, then demand was greater than supply and all the rebates went away and all the discounts down to invoice and below also went away.

and the elephant in the room is that manufacturers are being told that they WILL produce less ICE vehicles and phase them out by 2030, and pick up production with electric.

more expensive and no-inventory new cars made the used car market go crazy. Prices doubled in some cases, which is insane. some used cars with 20 or 30k miles went for more than the selling price of a brand new model because the new ordered one would take a year or more to come in.

so I can't predict when prices will go back to normal, if ever. it's all supply driven. once you begin to see full car lots, expect better prices. empty lots, high prices. the gas and interest rates hit car sales, but people still need wheels and they are still buying.
My friend who is the finance manager says that in a few years there wont be any, or few, sales or finance people, it will all be done much like Tesla, order it on line, make the deal on line, pick it up at the show room...or they will bring it to your house. Less fingers in the pie.
 
Everything is more expensive, from eggs to housing. This includes new and used car prices. Certain used cars are selling for as much or more than they did when they were new. Some new cars have a 30% premium added to their price.

It's crazy!
I have said this on some other Forum's.
When it comes to a used vehicle "Let the Buyer Beware".
Every dealership has cars in for warranty work that will sit while waiting for a $20 part.
Someone wanting to pawn off a vehicle with a problem will get the cheapest / Chinese replacement part to get it going just long enough to sell.
This will sound crazy to some... Go ahead and buy a broke down car and fix the issue right the first time. Then maintain it. A saying I grew up with in the Deep South....
"Four rollin' wheels beats two walkin' heels"

4 rollin wheels.jpg
 
First off I live I Michigan, so rust is the first issue. I am getting by with my current truck. It is an 01 and I would like something a little more presentable. It's getting to the nickel and dime stage at 180k. Seems like every few weeks it's another repair

Last week I did a service call at some giant house on a golf course. They had a paver driveway that had designs in it. The old truck looked pretty out of place lol
Dang not much you can do with rust, Vinyl wrap it and call it good haha

1674596414768.jpeg
 
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First off I live I Michigan, so rust is the first issue. I am getting by with my current truck. It is an 01 and I would like something a little more presentable. It's getting to the nickel and dime stage at 180k. Seems like every few weeks it's another repair

Last week I did a service call at some giant house on a golf course. They had a paver driveway that had designs in it. The old truck looked pretty out of place lol
Get down to basics... When the lower level toilet in that big house is over flowin' shit on the floor, the water in the dog bowl is frozen solid in the kitchen, the freezer just spoiled $200 of rib eye's...... You can park on the manicured yard and the wife will carry your tools for you... While the husband is teeing off on the golf course.
LOL.
 
Keep your eyes open.. Those newly purchased Government trucks will be Pete's... Your taxpayer dollars at work.
_______________
Tue, January 24, 2023 at 7:39 AM MST·1 min read
(Reuters) - PACCAR Inc beat market expectations for fourth-quarter earnings on Tuesday, aided by strong demand for its trucks from customers looking to replace ageing fleets.
Shares of the truck maker were up about 4% at $106.5 in premarket trading.
Rising e-commerce deliveries and a focus on bolstering logistics networks have driven demand for long-haul trucks, bolstering sales for companies such as PACCAR.
Also, a shortage of critical parts pressured production at truck makers, forcing customers to delay refreshing their fleets.
"Good freight markets and an increased fleet age are driving strong demand...," PACCAR Vice President Darrin Siver said.
Last week, logistics giant JB Hunt Transport Services also gave an upbeat forecast for the freight market this year.
PACCAR said on Tuesday that U.S. and Canada Class 8 truck industry retail sales are estimated to be in the range of 270,000 and 310,000 trucks for 2023. Last year, it sold 283,500 units.


 
In a transitory market with supply slowly catching up with demand. During Covid there were lots of Covid bucks being spread around which stimulated demand this combined with supply chain issues created the situation. Its all going to change and the used car market will see declines. Not only Carmax as mentioned above is seeing declining sales in the used car market so is Carvana which may possibly have to file bankruptcy. If you are in a position to wait the prospects for buyers will improve.
 
Have 2 sisters still waiting on vehicles they ordered. I is waiting on a Ford transit 250 to replace her current transit 250 (nephew is a little person with a powered wheel chair). The other sister is waiting on a Toyota highlander i think. Possibly the hybrid. Don't remember how long they've been waiting though.
 
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Have 2 sisters still waiting on vehicles they ordered. I is waiting on a Ford transit 250 to replace her current transit 250 (nephew is a little person with a powered wheel chair). The other sister is waiting on a Toyota highlander i think. Possibly the hybrid. Don't remember how long they've been waiting though.
Understood. We should start another string on "Waiting"... not just vehicles, everything.
 
Its not always that. Vehicles have gotten so sophisticated most folks cant work on them. Yeah, I can change a tire, or oil, take off or put on a simple part, but thats about it. When it comes to computer diagnostics, Im out of luck. Many newer vehicles have parts manufactured that you cant get the proper tool for...so you have to bring it to the garage.

An d good point on the odds, thats how Vegas stays in business. Your odds of red/black are cut by 0/00.

If you're on a phone or computer you can get by. Owning tools is good. They usually get used more than once. They're not exactly state of the art. Most flip phones had more power and memory than even new vehicle computers.

A scan tool to point you to any check engine light problems.
Google to find common and uncommon causes and fixes.

Decent multi-meter with good leads that have alligator clips.


Hell I've had a check engine light come on because I burned a plug wire. Simply plugged in my scanner, googled the code which was #7 mis-fire. Swapped the plug wire after checking the plug itself, and problem solved.

"Back in the day" you just changed all your plug wires as normal maintenance every 30k. Now you can run them until they fail and change the one that failed.

I'm sure glad I don't have to spend an afternoon doing a tune-up every 3000 miles anymore. I drive a truck with over 300k miles, and just keep changing the oil.
 
Meanwhile me and my 60's series landcruiser made back in 1986 are still kickin around 560,000 odd k's +

never buy a new car unless your cars beyond stuffed

I hate new second hand cars most of the stuff has computers that are failing in it so you buy someone else's broken computer

(the emission control came in in 1988 buy 1987 or earlier u get a real car made of real metal ;) )
 
"Back in the day" you just changed all your plug wires as normal maintenance every 30k. Now you can run them until they fail and change the one that failed.

I'm sure glad I don't have to spend an afternoon doing a tune-up every 3000 miles anymore. I drive a truck with over 300k miles, and just keep changing the oil.
Yeah, its almost impossible to find a paper match book cover to set the points with. One trick I found that really cuts down on maintenance is using Amsoil. I think the reduction in friction reduces high level vibration/metal fatigue. No proof of any sort except my vehicles seem to run better and last longer with Amsoil.

As to youre other suggestion, basically, Im willing. but not at all mechanically inclined. As I believe it was APChikn put it some time back, "I fuck up a lot of shit." I can make really simple jobs a nightmare without even trying. We all have our skills, knowing what they arent is as important as what they are.

Need a beautiful stone wall, or fireplace, I'm your guy. Need a bunch of big trees cut so they fall in the right place? Check.
 
So u are an arbor culturist

don't play around the power lines too often ;)
 
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Yeah, its almost impossible to find a paper match book cover to set the points with. One trick I found that really cuts down on maintenance is using Amsoil. I think the reduction in friction reduces high level vibration/metal fatigue. No proof of any sort except my vehicles seem to run better and last longer with Amsoil.

As to youre other suggestion, basically, Im willing. but not at all mechanically inclined. As I believe it was APChikn put it some time back, "I fuck up a lot of shit." I can make really simple jobs a nightmare without even trying. We all have our skills, knowing what they arent is as important as what they are.

Need a beautiful stone wall, or fireplace, I'm your guy. Need a bunch of big trees cut so they fall in the right place? Check.
I am a believer in Amsoil....
There are some other forums out there with a few of the Old School lubrication experts that will explain, step by step, why we see so many equipment failures. They will all come down to agreeing that the Government / EPA and other agencies regulations removed the exact chemicals in lubrication oil that is needed to make equipment last forever.
The other one is Lucas. There are testimonials from operators who started running Lucas products back in the late 80's.
Somehow, they put the ingredients in lubricating oil that other's leave out.
IMG_8184.JPGIMG_7903.JPG
 
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It is hard to predict, but as long as new cars still have "market adjustment" fees and long wait times, I don't see used car prices coming down too much.

If you're into an EV, just use the wait time for a new Tesla as a gauge for where things are going. I would say the moment Tesla starts to have new cars on hand in inventory for sale, that's when the used EVs will start to be reasonable in price. Right now the wait time is a couple weeks/months for the cheapest Model 3, depending on options (down from more than 3-5 months), so I would say the signs are not bad, but they still don't have the long range back for sale, so you don't really now.
I just read that Elon slashed prices n all new Tesla's.
 
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I am a believer in Amsoil....
There are some other forums out there with a few of the Old School lubrication experts that will explain, step by step, why we see so many equipment failures. They will all come down to agreeing that the Government / EPA and other agencies regulations removed the exact chemicals in lubrication oil that is needed to make equipment last forever.
The other one is Lucas. There are testimonials from operators who started running Lucas products back in the late 80's.
Somehow, they put the ingredients in lubricating oil that other's leave out.
View attachment 8057020View attachment 8057031
I believe one of those additives is zinc.

I've heard Lucas is good but have been happy with Amsoil so never switched. I have a buddy who was a long haul trucker and installed one of the oil line drains. every 10K or so he'd drain a few drops and send it in to Amsoil for analysis. He went 180,000 before they told him to change it. I bought a new Chevy van in 2002, switched it to Amsoil at 3K. It now has 270,000 and runs like a new one. Only repairs were brakes, a fuel pump at 230K and a couple other minor things that are standard replacements.
 
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I believe one of those additives is zinc.

I've heard Lucas is good but have been happy with Amsoil so never switched. I have a buddy who was a long haul trucker and installed one of the oil line drains. every 10K or so he'd drain a few drops and send it in to Amsoil for analysis. He went 180,000 before they told him to change it. I bought a new Chevy van in 2002, switched it to Amsoil at 3K. It now has 270,000 and runs like a new one. Only repairs were brakes, a fuel pump at 230K and a couple other minor things that are standard replacements.
I am in agreement.
For a vehicle owner with "ZERO" mechanical resources (not mechanical, no shop, no tools, etc) the best preventative measures he / she could take would be to run a high end lubricant similar to Amsoil.
 
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With prices being what they have been in our area for the last 5 years, we have given up even looking at used vehicles. (Why pay $45 to $50 thousand for a vehicle with 100 to 150 thousand miles on it). But we do have an issue needing a second vehicle that we can depend on. Our 2000 Suburban has close to 300,000 miles and frankly I am worrying that it won’t make it if push came to shove. (Had a idler pulley bearing give out while Brenda was in Florida, leaving me in the Miata, which I would not mind but it has 250,000+ miles on it and tried to lay down on me when returning from a longish trip to Prince Memorial Range. Basically in the middle of winter if I wanted to go somewhere, I rode a bike)

So, I started checking prices of replacements. A new Suburban basically costs more than the lake cottage we live in. Being retired, that is Not An Option! Small SUV, ok, not real happy but if it will work, can carry a bike rack and the gun cases will fit inside that will be fine thank you. Checking out prices, base models are un-obtainium, and the deluxe models have a $4000.00 dealer premium add-on to the MSRP (not including the dealer prep, the spray on undercoat, spray on scotch guard and spray on airing the tires, which normally adds around 2 to 3 thousand).

We consider ourselves danged fortunate that we purchased a GMC pickup (at a reasonable price) right before the biden screwups hit the country

Might try to find someone to do a full restoration on the Miata. Cheaper than dealer premiums and spray on scotch guard. (Damn that spray can of stuff must be expensive)
 
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With prices being what they have been in our area for the last 5 years, we have given up even looking at used vehicles. (Why pay $45 to $50 thousand for a vehicle with 100 to 150 thousand miles on it). But we do have an issue needing a second vehicle that we can depend on. Our 2000 Suburban has close to 300,000 miles and frankly I am worrying that it won’t make it if push came to shove. (Had a idler pulley bearing give out while Brenda was in Florida, leaving me in the Miata, which I would not mind but it has 250,000+ miles on it and tried to lay down on me when returning from a longish trip to Prince Memorial Range. Basically in the middle of winter if I wanted to go somewhere, I rode a bike)

So, I started checking prices of replacements. A new Suburban basically costs more than the lake cottage we live in. Being retired, that is Not An Option! Small SUV, ok, not real happy but if it will work, can carry a bike rack and the gun cases will fit inside that will be fine thank you. Checking out prices, base models are un-obtainium, and the deluxe models have a $4000.00 dealer premium add-on to the MSRP (not including the dealer prep, the spray on undercoat, spray on scotch guard and spray on airing the tires, which normally adds around 2 to 3 thousand).

Might try to find someone to do a full restoration on the Miata. Cheaper than dealer premiums and spray on scotch guard. (Damn that spray can of stuff must be expensive)

Something also to remember is that we've had 2 years in a row of 10% or more real inflation.
That's not going backwards anytime soon and has affected pretty much everything, including new and used vehicles.

$25k+ as the actual price for the "budget" cars new is quickly becoming the new normal with $40k+ as the start price for SUVs.
$50k is now pretty much the entry bar for a decent full sized anything.

It may sound like a lot, but have you looked at the prices of eggs recently?
 
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Something also to remember is that we've had 2 years in a row of 10% or more real inflation.
That's not going backwards anytime soon and has affected pretty much everything, including new and used vehicles.

$25k+ as the actual price for the "budget" cars new is quickly becoming the new normal with $40k+ as the start price for SUVs.
$50k is now pretty much the entry bar for a decent full sized anything.

It may sound like a lot, but have you looked at the prices of eggs recently?
All according to plan. Keep the serfs in their place.
 
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With prices being what they have been in our area for the last 5 years, we have given up even looking at used vehicles. (Why pay $45 to $50 thousand for a vehicle with 100 to 150 thousand miles on it). But we do have an issue needing a second vehicle that we can depend on. Our 2000 Suburban has close to 300,000 miles and frankly I am worrying that it won’t make it if push came to shove. (Had a idler pulley bearing give out while Brenda was in Florida, leaving me in the Miata, which I would not mind but it has 250,000+ miles on it and tried to lay down on me when returning from a longish trip to Prince Memorial Range. Basically in the middle of winter if I wanted to go somewhere, I rode a bike)

So, I started checking prices of replacements. A new Suburban basically costs more than the lake cottage we live in. Being retired, that is Not An Option! Small SUV, ok, not real happy but if it will work, can carry a bike rack and the gun cases will fit inside that will be fine thank you. Checking out prices, base models are un-obtainium, and the deluxe models have a $4000.00 dealer premium add-on to the MSRP (not including the dealer prep, the spray on undercoat, spray on scotch guard and spray on airing the tires, which normally adds around 2 to 3 thousand).

Might try to find someone to do a full restoration on the Miata. Cheaper than dealer premiums and spray on scotch guard. (Damn that spray can of stuff must be expensive)
The 00-06 NBS Suburban, Tahoe and full size trucks/SUVs, rarely ever has anything go wrong with them and it does, it's usually pretty cheap to fix. I have seen people put well over 500k on those things and barely even spend any money on them other then your normal maintenance items. Even a transmission on those things are under 2k to replace.
 
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I have said this on some other Forum's.
When it comes to a used vehicle "Let the Buyer Beware".
Every dealership has cars in for warranty work that will sit while waiting for a $20 part.
Someone wanting to pawn off a vehicle with a problem will get the cheapest / Chinese replacement part to get it going just long enough to sell.
This will sound crazy to some... Go ahead and buy a broke down car and fix the issue right the first time. Then maintain it. A saying I grew up with in the Deep South....
"Four rollin' wheels beats two walkin' heels"

View attachment 8056656
Go to roughly 2:10

 
I am a believer in Amsoil....
There are some other forums out there with a few of the Old School lubrication experts that will explain, step by step, why we see so many equipment failures. They will all come down to agreeing that the Government / EPA and other agencies regulations removed the exact chemicals in lubrication oil that is needed to make equipment last forever.
The other one is Lucas. There are testimonials from operators who started running Lucas products back in the late 80's.
Somehow, they put the ingredients in lubricating oil that other's leave out.
View attachment 8057020View attachment 8057031

Bob is the oil guy.
 
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All according to plan. Keep the serfs in their place.
LOL.... I'm laughing WITH you, not at you.
In reading here, as well as other vehicle related sights / boards the mileage some owner's are racking up is staggering.
A few generations ago, an American never traveled farther than 30 miles from where they were born / settled down.
Maybe people need to figure a way as to not spend so much time driving.
;)
 
Personally I don't think you will ever see the same make and model sitting on car lots in 50 different colors. If you are lucky you might find one.

They have learned build to order is a way of business is acceptable to the public. Why have your money tied up on the lot. I also think that finance is not going to be a good place without the Mfg kicking into the pot to make rates acceptable.

As to used cars, yea very much a huge question. People do not take care of their cars. And then they do some really stupid things as well.

If I was to buy used I would want it coming from someone I know.
 
Go to roughly 2:10


Thank you.
Again, I made a statement earlier... "Sometimes it's best to just acquire a vehicle that is broken down and go ahead and make proper repairs".
A lot of small operators would rather buy a "roll over" as a parts vehicle because up until the last few moments of it's life, everything was operating on that vehicle. Very little drive drain damage in a rollover.
Worst one to get would be one from a flood / water damage. And, there are thousands of them out there for sale.
Just one of thousands of examples:
 
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happy with Amsoil so never switched.

What does a quart of typical Amsoil cost you? (inc shipping cost)

For most people, it probably does not make sense to spend the money because most people will not keep a car for 300,000 plus miles. I generally dump cars at 200,000 miles

I use whatever lower end synthetic is available and on sale/rebate.

Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic , Quaker State Full Synthetic, Castrol GTX Full Synthetic

I do realize these brands all make a higher end synthetic, I have not had to upgrade for my use.
In 200k of normal interval oil and filter changes, I have never had an oil related failure on many cars over the years.

I can usually pick up a 5qt jug of any of the above listed oils for $15 or so for 5 quarts, on sale or after rebate or combo of both
That price has been on going for years now, but I realize they can stop the rebates at any time.

If 5 quarts of Amsoil were $15, then I will add it to the list, but anytime I look the price per quart is insanely high.

I have had friends take vehicles to 400k miles using nothing but regular old fossil based oil

Sometimes I think people with normal grocery getter type cars in normal day to day driving waste a lot of money on high end oils, while I know those oils are 'better', they are overkill for the situation at hand. Meaning they go to 11 ;) and a solid 8 is good enough.
 
What does a quart of typical Amsoil cost you? (inc shipping cost)

For most people, it probably does not make sense to spend the money because most people will not keep a car for 300,000 plus miles. I generally dump cars at 200,000 miles

I use whatever lower end synthetic is available and on sale/rebate.

Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic , Quaker State Full Synthetic, Castrol GTX Full Synthetic

I do realize these brands all make a higher end synthetic, I have not had to upgrade for my use.
In 200k of normal interval oil and filter changes, I have never had an oil related failure on many cars over the years.

I can usually pick up a 5qt jug of any of the above listed oils for $15 or so for 5 quarts, on sale or after rebate or combo of both
That price has been on going for years now, but I realize they can stop the rebates at any time.

If 5 quarts of Amsoil were $15, then I will add it to the list, but anytime I look the price per quart is insanely high.

I have had friends take vehicles to 400k miles using nothing but regular old fossil based oil

Sometimes I think people with normal grocery getter type cars in normal day to day driving waste a lot of money on high end oils, while I know those oils are 'better', they are overkill for the situation at hand. Meaning they go to 11 ;) and a solid 8 is good enough.
Depends on your change frequency. with normal oils I changed every 3K at $29.99 cause I hate getting oil on me so I pay Jiffy Lube. Thats $90 to go 9000 miles and 3 stops for change.

With Amsoil I go 10-13 K miles between changes so its a one time $29.99 Jiffy Lube and +/- $40 for my own oil = $70 for 10 K miles, not to mention the time saved.

Seems like a deal to me.