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Suppressor for Precision 16” .223

Josh S

Private
Minuteman
Apr 27, 2014
8
10
Good ole Central Ohio
Talk to me about suppressors for 16” .223 AR/gasser precision gun.

I’m no wizard. I’m just a guy trying to make it in this big crazy world but I’d like to toss a suppressor on my rig. I don’t plan on removing it, more of a dedicated can.

What kind of considerations do I need to look at when suppressing this kind of rig that is different from suppressing like an SBR or something?

Are low back pressure/flow through cans dumb on precision setup?

Direct thread vs QD to a muzzle device or something? Speaking of muzzle device - brake or FH?

And finally, any make/model recommendations?
 
Talk to me about suppressors for 16” .223 AR/gasser precision gun.

I’m no wizard. I’m just a guy trying to make it in this big crazy world but I’d like to toss a suppressor on my rig. I don’t plan on removing it, more of a dedicated can.

What kind of considerations do I need to look at when suppressing this kind of rig that is different from suppressing like an SBR or something?

Are low back pressure/flow through cans dumb on precision setup?

Direct thread vs QD to a muzzle device or something? Speaking of muzzle device - brake or FH?

And finally, any make/model recommendations?
The first principle is that how it gets mounted to the barrel matters. That's probably the most critical thing assuming we are talking about welded cans.

You basically want the exact same orientation each and every time.

Because of that alone I am a huge fan of taper mounts. Not only do you get the exact same orientation each time but in general they are more secure than many other options. Basically there is a lot more surface area creating a friction fit so it's not as easy to walk loose.

The other big factor is trying to make sure everything is squared up which is more execution than anything. By that I knew a guy once that in his haste didn't clean the threads of the barrel very good before mounting the muzzle device. Because of that his POI shift was like a foot instead of an inch. Later on he removed it and started over to get less than 1 inch of shift using all of the same stuff.

In short for precision stay away from cans that have removable baffles or that don't have a confirmed repeatable lock up on the barrel.
 
I am building a 16” precision gun around a Bartlein heavy. Most my ARs are ASR mounts, but thinking of doing thus using an Area 419 hellfire. If I do this then it will likely wear a CAT JL. If I go with the ASR it will wear an ABEL Buscuit 556.
 
Get a flow through can and you won’t have to worry about a messing with a gas block. HuxWrx and B&T both make good models. What you looking to spend?

If you are just going to leave it on and leave it on then you can just screw it on direct thread. But if it will be going on and off then a mount with a brake/FH will work. I use the Xeno brakes on my ARs so I can move my cans between rifles.
 
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Get a flow through can and you won’t have to worry about a messing with a gas block. HuxWrx and B&T both make good models. What you looking to spend?

If you are just going to leave it on and leave it on then you can just screw it on direct thread. But if it will be going on and off then a mount with a brake/FH will work. I use the Xeno brakes on my ARs so I can move my cans between rifles.
I don’t want to say money is no object but I’ve dumped a decent amount of coin into my 223 precision gun and I’m not afraid to keep that trend going.

1500 bones, I guess. Would obviously be cool if it was less. Means more money for ammo.

I don’t know that I need or want a $2,000 can but if someone says hey go do this $1500 can, then I’m down. However if someone says hey the OCL Polonium is what’s up, I’m cool with that too.
 
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I don’t want to say money is no object but I’ve dumped a decent amount of coin into my 223 precision gun and I’m not afraid to keep that trend going.

1500 bones, I guess. Would obviously be cool if it was less. Means more money for ammo.

I don’t know that I need or want a $2,000 can but if someone says hey go do this $1500 can, then I’m down. However if someone says hey the OCL Polonium is what’s up, I’m cool with that too.

You can go with a lighter titanium can like a HuxWrx Flow 556 or 762 which are both around $1250 or something like a Flow Range 36 if you wouldn’t mind having the option to use it on something larger up to 9mm PCC and it’s only about $969.

You can get a heavier non Ti can also and get below the $1000 mark. The B&T SRBS inconels run around $975 and if you go through Silencer Shop they will pay the $200 tax stamp.

ETA a pic of my B&T 762 Inconel on my 22” 6ARC for size reference. That’s with the DT mount it came with but it wears a Xeno mount now about a 1/2” shorter.

IMG_4653.jpeg
 
I don’t want to say money is no object but I’ve dumped a decent amount of coin into my 223 precision gun and I’m not afraid to keep that trend going.

1500 bones, I guess. Would obviously be cool if it was less. Means more money for ammo.

I don’t know that I need or want a $2,000 can but if someone says hey go do this $1500 can, then I’m down. However if someone says hey the OCL Polonium is what’s up, I’m cool with that too.
I have a PTR VENT 3 .556 suppressor I use on a mid range 16" AR. The gas blowback is minimal and it is QUIET AF for an AR 15 can. It is a bit long at 7"+, not heavy though. I'm going to get another dedicated .556 and am looking at the Dillon Rifle Company DRC .556 and a CAT WB, and PTR Spiritus(shorter version of the Vent 3). All are in the Grand to 1500 range. The Dillon Rifle Company DRC is1500 with a $200 tax stamp deduction with a coupon code at Bauer precision. All seem to be very good .556 cans, only one I have hands on with is the Vent 3 though and I love it. Much better than my high back pressure cans on the AR
 

Maybe if he assaulting an enemy stronghold at night it may be an issue lol but no issues for day or even night shooting. I had heard that the Flow cans do get less with use as I did look into it prior to buying and read a lot on it. Would not stop me from buying one of the Flow 556 or 762 if it’s got the specs I wanted.
 
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When looking for my first suppressor, my priorities were size and signature reduction. That sort of led me away from flow through cans. After some research and trying different cans, I landed on a YHM Fat Cat. It's very good at signature reduction and is not overly heavy. It also didn't turn my 16" rig into a spear. As a plus, it also came with YHMs taper mount and a muzzle device. The downside is the back pressure. You will most likely need to do some gas tuning.

When compared to other cans, up to 6" in length, it compared very well in terms of sound reduction. If you are considering something along the lines of an polonium, you should try to check out thr Fat cat before buying. The Fat Cat had a much better and deeper tone to me.
 
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If you have a very low rate of fire, you can get away with a traditional can and just bump up the buffer weight and be alright. Otherwise, a flow through can is the best option. The aforementioned B&T, CAT, and Hux are good to go. The SiCo Velos is another good option and is actually very quiet while being low backpressure.

 
A polonium and an adjustable gas block is half the cost of a “flow through” can. It’s what I have and am fine with it.

Not really. That can is $532 at Silencer shop plus $200 so $732 and then price of a gas block puts you at about $800. You could buy a B&T 556 or 762 flow can for about $975 and they pay the tax stamp and you don’t need a different gas block. Just two ways to get there.