Suppressor for Precision 16” .223

[Josh S]

Talk to me about suppressors for 16” .223 AR/gasser precision gun.

I’m no wizard. I’m just a guy trying to make it in this big crazy world but I’d like to toss a suppressor on my rig. I don’t plan on removing it, more of a dedicated can.

What kind of considerations do I need to look at when suppressing this kind of rig that is different from suppressing like an SBR or something?

Are low back pressure/flow through cans dumb on precision setup?

Direct thread vs QD to a muzzle device or something? Speaking of muzzle device - brake or FH?

And finally, any make/model recommendations?

 

[alamo5000]

Talk to me about suppressors for 16” .223 AR/gasser precision gun.

I’m no wizard. I’m just a guy trying to make it in this big crazy world but I’d like to toss a suppressor on my rig. I don’t plan on removing it, more of a dedicated can.

What kind of considerations do I need to look at when suppressing this kind of rig that is different from suppressing like an SBR or something?

Are low back pressure/flow through cans dumb on precision setup?

Direct thread vs QD to a muzzle device or something? Speaking of muzzle device - brake or FH?

And finally, any make/model recommendations?

The first principle is that how it gets mounted to the barrel matters. That's probably the most critical thing assuming we are talking about welded cans.

You basically want the exact same orientation each and every time.

Because of that alone I am a huge fan of taper mounts. Not only do you get the exact same orientation each time but in general they are more secure than many other options. Basically there is a lot more surface area creating a friction fit so it's not as easy to walk loose.

The other big factor is trying to make sure everything is squared up which is more execution than anything. By that I knew a guy once that in his haste didn't clean the threads of the barrel very good before mounting the muzzle device. Because of that his POI shift was like a foot instead of an inch. Later on he removed it and started over to get less than 1 inch of shift using all of the same stuff.

In short for precision stay away from cans that have removable baffles or that don't have a confirmed repeatable lock up on the barrel.

 

[oldrifleman]

I am building a 16” precision gun around a Bartlein heavy. Most my ARs are ASR mounts, but thinking of doing thus using an Area 419 hellfire. If I do this then it will likely wear a CAT JL. If I go with the ASR it will wear an ABEL Buscuit 556.

 

[Rob01]

Get a flow through can and you won’t have to worry about a messing with a gas block. HuxWrx and B&T both make good models. What you looking to spend?

If you are just going to leave it on and leave it on then you can just screw it on direct thread. But if it will be going on and off then a mount with a brake/FH will work. I use the Xeno brakes on my ARs so I can move my cans between rifles.

 

[Josh S]

Get a flow through can and you won’t have to worry about a messing with a gas block. HuxWrx and B&T both make good models. What you looking to spend?

If you are just going to leave it on and leave it on then you can just screw it on direct thread. But if it will be going on and off then a mount with a brake/FH will work. I use the Xeno brakes on my ARs so I can move my cans between rifles.

I don’t want to say money is no object but I’ve dumped a decent amount of coin into my 223 precision gun and I’m not afraid to keep that trend going.

1500 bones, I guess. Would obviously be cool if it was less. Means more money for ammo.

I don’t know that I need or want a $2,000 can but if someone says hey go do this $1500 can, then I’m down. However if someone says hey the OCL Polonium is what’s up, I’m cool with that too.

 

[oldrifleman]

I got my Magnus S for 1550 plus stamp. My Cat JLs were 1350 plus stamp. These are my favorites for precision work both are really quiet and have really nice recoil control. For a 223 gas gun I have run my JL and it is good but the CAT ODB really shines,

 

[Rob01]

I don’t want to say money is no object but I’ve dumped a decent amount of coin into my 223 precision gun and I’m not afraid to keep that trend going.

1500 bones, I guess. Would obviously be cool if it was less. Means more money for ammo.

I don’t know that I need or want a $2,000 can but if someone says hey go do this $1500 can, then I’m down. However if someone says hey the OCL Polonium is what’s up, I’m cool with that too.

You can go with a lighter titanium can like a HuxWrx Flow 556 or 762 which are both around $1250 or something like a Flow Range 36 if you wouldn’t mind having the option to use it on something larger up to 9mm PCC and it’s only about $969.

You can get a heavier non Ti can also and get below the $1000 mark. The B&T SRBS inconels run around $975 and if you go through Silencer Shop they will pay the $200 tax stamp.

ETA a pic of my B&T 762 Inconel on my 22” 6ARC for size reference. That’s with the DT mount it came with but it wears a Xeno mount now about a 1/2” shorter.