The 300 PRC uses a .532" bolt face, which is a standard magnum bolt face (same as 300 WM, as an example).
Long range build advice
- Thread starter Moto41
- Start date
That makes TOTAL sense! When I shoot my 6.5 now at 1250 yards, image is def an issue even with my Mark V. The 20 MOA base always threw me off because I wanted to be able to take it hunting with me at 2-300 yards and thought I was gonna be having to hold LOW, which seemed awkward. But didn’t realize you can zero it out. I ran outta clicks and just scrapped the 20MOA base the first time around. Now I get it. U are awesome and thank you SO much for your time to respond.
So if i read this right, and convert it into my real life example: When i am out to say 1500 yards, no MOA base, i pretty much MAX out my MOA AND hold a another 5+ in the scope. With a 20 MOA base, would that mean i would have 20 more MOA to use, therefore eliminating the extra hold, putting the target in the middle of my reticle? And in doing so, it would be more centered in the glass rather than be in the bottom? When i zoom all the way in, i can only see approx 30MOA in the glass vs the 50 or so I should see because it runs out of glass. Does this also change? Sorry…..trying to make sense of it.
Ok that scope has 120 moa/35 mils of elevation so I would get 30 moa in that CDG action if you go that route and then get a 20 moa mount to mount that scope in. Should give you plenty of elevation and still zero at 100. If you need more you can use the reticle and hold over.
120/2=60 up and 60 down
The 30 can’t in a base and 20 in a mount equals a conversion of 50
You would end up with 110 up and 10 down in your scope in that scenario.
You offset the even split of the scopes total elevation travel by the amount of can’t built into the mounting solution, aka base+mount
Yup what he said. Cant in base or mount does not add elevation to the scope but redistributes the amount you have.
Impact and TL3 are both good. I have a couple TL3s that work great. Major difference between it and the Origin is the TL3 has an integral recoil lug and the Origin is pinned. Either works.
Impact and TL3 are both good. I have a couple TL3s that work great. Major difference between it and the Origin is the TL3 has an integral recoil lug and the Origin is pinned. Either works.
What barrel contour do I want here? M24? And fluting is just looks yea? Thinking this barrel 26’, 5/8 x 24 thread for suppressor. 1/9 twist. You like that?Of course. No reason to spend more for a carbon fiber wrapped barrel in your use. I’d get something heavy like a Comp Contour or even a straight 1.25” barrel. The weight will do nothing more than help deaden the recoil.
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Nope go 28” and the Proof Comp Contour or even straight as the weight will help cut the recoil for you and no reason not to go heavy for your use.
No need for flutes either as it will just cut weight. 9 twist would be my choice.
@bohem Josh owns PVA so maybe he will chime in but above would be what I would use.
Heaviest contour you can,
Skip the fluting,
I'd go 32" but looks like they only offer a 28"
I'd go 1:8.5 but a 1:9 will work also.
Awesome! I think this is it:
MDT Elite Chasis
Coup Action, 20 moa base
PVA Barrell 28
Triggertech diamond 2 stage
Leup mark V
Everyone concur?? Bout to be CHRISTMAS in TX! This is what happens when it rains 30in in 2 days and you cant go outside.. $$$$$! Ha
MDT Elite Chasis
Coup Action, 20 moa base
PVA Barrell 28
Triggertech diamond 2 stage
Leup mark V
Everyone concur?? Bout to be CHRISTMAS in TX! This is what happens when it rains 30in in 2 days and you cant go outside.. $$$$$! Ha
I meant chassis and trigger as those are personal choices as to likes and dislikes.
The action and barrel are good choices.
Nothing wrong with any of the choices there.
I prefer a single stage but that's up to you.
I prefer a single stage but that's up to you.
No, but if shooting max range for cartridge, gonna be shooting 153.5's or solids in 6.5. Those will be expensive or unobtanium, and obviously the coal will be whatever it is, regardless or your throat. Same with the 220 lrht's or the 230/250 A-tips, or 30 cal solids for that matter. In 6.5, I shoot a SAUM improved (Sherman Max) which stays supersonic >2K, as does my 300 RUM. Reloading just introduces lots more variables, which for me anyway, makes it a lot more fun. I don't enjoy the trigger pulling aspect nearly as much as the design and setup / load dev.
Not really - that's what kept me from it for years - best decision ever - whole other dimension to the hobby / sport. Single stage press, a couple cheap amazon digital scales, good dies, and you're off. All the answers online and tons of experts here.
No it’s pretty easy if you are careful and work up.
That said with the 300PRC I would buy some factory ammo and keep your brass and then after you see what you want or need you can load for it later.
My only problem with that is usually people end up with Hornady factory ammo and the brass sucks wieners.
Chambered in any magnum cartridge, this kinda looks like a PRS rifle built in an ELR Light Division cartridge. It will be a train wreck for PRS shooting, and will give up performance to proper light rifles in ELR.
Post #5 yesterday:
Moto41
Yessir. I guess I use the term “PRS” and it doesn’t apply. Let me re-phase: I want to be able to stretch out there and extend my abilities and hit targets.
He’s not talking about PRS matches.
I have used Hornady brass for many years and I hear people say that but never saw it in my experience. I load very accurate ammo with Hornady brass.
I’d say try the Hornady ammo.
Are you saying 75fps ES in the same lot ammo in your 6.5? I have never had it that high and have used Hornady Creedmoor ammo since 2008. If you are talking different lots of ammo then that is definitely possible.
Yeah different lots will be different. You can try other 300PRC ammo but at about $100/20 it will get expensive.
Hornady is trash. Thin brass that cracks and completely inconsistent bullets. If you want the best - Berger.
I generally completely disregard people that speak well of Hornady as your experience is 100% the norm.
Berger Match Grade 300 PRC Ammo 215 Grain Hybrid Target Jacketed
Berger Ammunition provides the most demanding hunter, competitive shooter and Mil/LE warfighter a precision-built performance product that is unequaled...
www.midwayusa.com
Moto get some of this too and try it for yourself.
www.midwayusa.com
Hornady Match 300 PRC Ammo 225 Grain Hornady ELD Match Polymer Tip Box
This ammunition is custom-grade from the factory, loaded to stringent specifications to guarantee proper ignition and provide consistent, match-winning,...
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He's talking about a specific competitive division - but I wouldn't worry about that right now. Get a rifle you can be comfortable with, and it looks like you're going about it the right way.
If you go too heavy or too long, it just becomes a pain to lug around while you get your feet wet in the discipline.
I've got a 37XC that weighs in at well over 30lbs. I've spent a boatload of time and $$ getting the thing built up to shoot. It's cost me probably twice what my 300 PRC did, all in... and I've got probably a 10th of the round count through that vs the 300. I just don't enjoy shooting it all that much as everything is just a more difficult with it. From reloading, to equipment, to hauling it around. Heck, I even have to run it diagonally to get it into the Jeep.
The rifle you're putting together is fundamentally the same as what I've been shooting for years and, as mentioned earlier in this thread, it continues to be my favorite.
You're putting together something really good for your first magnum. It won't be a pain, it won't weigh you down. Shoot it, learn on it, then make a more educated choice for your next barrel based on what your goals and circumstances are at the time. I'll lay odds that they won't bear much resemblance to what they are now. Nor should they.
300PRC.
I had a 300nm and it was awesome but it burns a ton of powder and the barrel life is terrible with optimal powder like n570.
With the 300PRC you can push a 245 Berger at respectable speeds ...recoil won't be terrible and barrel life will be much better than the 300nm. I would say if most shooting is inside 2000yards the prc and if you want to shoot a lot between 2-2.5k then the norma..but it's Gona cost about twice what the prc will in barrels, powder ,ect. Plus with the prc you don't need a lapua bolt face.
Anything past that move up to a 37xc or cheytac.
@b2lee can school ya up on why the 300PRC is a better option.
I had a 300nm and it was awesome but it burns a ton of powder and the barrel life is terrible with optimal powder like n570.
With the 300PRC you can push a 245 Berger at respectable speeds ...recoil won't be terrible and barrel life will be much better than the 300nm. I would say if most shooting is inside 2000yards the prc and if you want to shoot a lot between 2-2.5k then the norma..but it's Gona cost about twice what the prc will in barrels, powder ,ect. Plus with the prc you don't need a lapua bolt face.
Anything past that move up to a 37xc or cheytac.
@b2lee can school ya up on why the 300PRC is a better option.
@Rocketmandb this is somewhat off topic, but since this has been a thread with a bunch of general information I doubt OP will mind...
What .585 bolt face calibers are the ELR's guys favoring these days? 338 Norma vs the Lapua? Or are you guys skipping those entirely and going to 375 cheytacs and that huge stuff.
Edit: Shit, just googled 37XC... I'd never heard of that round until you guys posted just above. Still curious though, are the 338 rounds still relevant at all?
What .585 bolt face calibers are the ELR's guys favoring these days? 338 Norma vs the Lapua? Or are you guys skipping those entirely and going to 375 cheytacs and that huge stuff.
Edit: Shit, just googled 37XC... I'd never heard of that round until you guys posted just above. Still curious though, are the 338 rounds still relevant at all?
I have a lot of stuff now... suggest the reloading 101 thread from years ago.
FYI RUM case is larger than PRC and Norma. If going Norma, the improved version really makes it shine, same with Lapua, improved is worth the squeeze. Just depends on what you want - my low node RUM is 200 fps faster than PRC and high node is 300 fps faster than PRC. Single shot, though - unsure if you really want/need mag length, or if you need the extra velocity. If you want to run 250's though, I'd definitely be looking at a Norma Imp for high dollar / heavy build or a RUM for simplicity - reg mag size case head.
A friend of mine donates his once fired winmag brass to me. This was hornady 2x reloaded with berger 155.5's at 3300fps. Not even really a hot load. No, there was no excessive headspace. I bump the shoulder .002" at the max.
Op, I think you're on the right track with the 300PRC. As much as it hurts me to say that, being a diehard winmag fan. As others have mentioned, you have to put in some extra effort with the chambering and building your ammo to really make it shine. The PRC was built for it right out of the gate.
With what you're putting together, you'll probably come in around the 18-20 pound mark or more if you want to put weights on your chassis.
My winmag comes in around 17lbs now I think. I run it suppressed with a brake full time, and it's hard for me not to shoot 50 rounds every time I take it out. It's probably my favorite rifle to shoot, I just don't get a chance to stretch it's legs as often as I'd like.
Poor picture of the rifle but here it is. Trued 700 with a heavy palma contour 9 twist bartlein, jewell trigger, in a krg bravo. Loaned it to a family member for a nilgai hunt here in TX. Can't remember where. The 215 hybrid left the muzzle at 2920 and dumped him at 585 yards.
