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AR Positional POI Shift Test

For the BCM/Geissele, the only thing I can think of for that insane deviation with the bipod prone shoot was contact with the gas block with maybe the bipod mount back-end hardware. Because it went right back to close POA=POI for the tripod-supported.

Excellent video to illustrate what we’re talking about with positional POI shift though.
 
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For the BCM/Geissele, the only thing I can think of for that insane deviation with the bipod prone shoot was contact with the gas block with maybe the bipod mount back-end hardware. Because it went right back to close POA=POI for the tripod-supported.

Excellent video to illustrate what we’re talking about with positional POI shift though.
I bet you’re right. I’m going to have to try it again.
 
Tested 3 different bullets out of new barrel today and decided to try this test. Top row is prone, bottom is barricade. Unfortunately not corresponding bullets so I labeled the groups to better match.
B26DDBEF-184D-4018-B1DD-AFC2D335AAC4.jpeg



Mega bullet upper and KAC URX4. I know other people have posted issues with URX4 in this thread but this is my second and I haven’t had issues. I actually have a spare MML upper available but chose the URX4 on standard upper because I can get a lower height over bore with URX4.

I will note on this particular rifle I bridged the upper and handguard with the scope mount. Not intentionally, I just didn’t have a cantilever available and this was unused.

86EBBD2F-5343-419C-A546-494E6C97CE26.jpeg
 
Tested 3 different bullets out of new barrel today and decided to try this test. Top row is prone, bottom is barricade. Unfortunately not corresponding bullets so I labeled the groups to better match.
View attachment 8674148


Mega bullet upper and KAC URX4. I know other people have posted issues with URX4 in this thread but this is my second and I haven’t had issues. I actually have a spare MML upper available but chose the URX4 on standard upper because I can get a lower height over bore with URX4.

I will note on this particular rifle I bridged the upper and handguard with the scope mount. Not intentionally, I just didn’t have a cantilever available and this was unused.

View attachment 8674149
What barrel ?
 
Im kinda battling with this issue right now and im leaning toward it being a fundamentals-consistency issue while shooting my rig from prone with bipod far forward and rear bag. All my groups are around 1”-1.25” and in that group I will have 3-4 rounds stacked in a .5”-.6” group and then a couple shots that blow the group out to a inch or a little more…

Rifle is a vltor Mur upper receiver, PVA Osprey 6 arc barrel, Geissele mk18 rail(bipod attached via arca on the rail), suppressed with TBAC Ultra 7 .264.

I admit I don’t have nearly as much time trying to shoot ar’s at a level of precision like i do my bolt guns and thats why im thinking its definitely me and not the gun or load(i am handloading for this gun). Barrel has right at 200 rounds on it so it should be broke in.
image_cropper_809329B8-ACF5-47D9-815B-818203D25F61-40245-00001F9964AECDEF.jpeg
image_cropper_E3CB7753-F61B-421F-9CD3-517A09F3DC36-34466-00001AFB9FC8AE56.jpeg
This is not always how it shoots but is kind of representative of how i can lay down some great groups and then the next is over an inch. Those smaller dots are right at 3/4”, the grid paper im shooting on is a weird scale.
 
Here's another data point.

Rifle: Cobalt Kinetics CK-Pro with Rainier Match 16" barrel

IMG_5103.jpg


Test (Left to Right)
bipod near muzzle > bipod near magwell > no bipod, shot off bag near magwell

*ignore terrible group sizes, shot cheap practice ammo fairly quickly on these groups

veracitycobalt.jpg


Results:
Appears to be about a 0.2 mrad shift for positional shooting. I probably should have tested this a long time ago. Good to know.
 
I definitely need to do more testing, but reading this thread got me curious. I shot my LMT MRP tonight from a bag and also from a bipod extended all the way out on the rail. I did get two nice tight groups, but with a bipod the group dropped .1 mil and shifted .1 mil left.

Barrel is a Bartlein conversion, it's now a very accurate rifle. I went with LMT partially because of the minimal POI shift, along with the ability to change barrels quickly and easily.

I'll test this more this weekend and follow up with some photos
How do you change barrels easily? I was aware of that feature but was under the impression that you have their own proprietary barrels?
And that wasn't the case for stand-alone handrails/receivers sold separately?
 
Here's another data point.

Rifle: Cobalt Kinetics CK-Pro with Rainier Match 16" barrel

View attachment 8680139

Test (Left to Right)
bipod near muzzle > bipod near magwell > no bipod, shot off bag near magwell

*ignore terrible group sizes, shot cheap practice ammo fairly quickly on these groups

View attachment 8680140

Results:
Appears to be about a 0.2 mrad shift for positional shooting. I probably should have tested this a long time ago. Good to know.
Awesome write up! Seriously this rocks. Which SOLGW were you using?
 
How do you change barrels easily? I was aware of that feature but was under the impression that you have their own proprietary barrels?
And that wasn't the case for stand-alone handrails/receivers sold separately?
I have two different Factory LMT barrels, but a gunsmith named D Wilson can convert virtually any standard AR-15 Barrel to work with the LMT quick change barrel system

I had him convert a 16" Bartlein barrel a few months ago, it is an absolute tack driver now, Factory LMT barrels in 5.56 have been mediocre at best for me in terms of accuracy.

I really like LMT, the monolithic upper rail is my favorite upper on the market, and their Ambi lower is my favorite lower on the market, I just wish they were more accurate as they come from the factory
 
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Seekins SP-10 builders kit. Mullerworks custom 6.5CM barrel. JP guts.

One bag, one tripod, one bipod, one barricade. About a .1mrad from all other positions to tripod and back. And I'm fairly certain it's how I'm driving the gun off the tripod to manage wobble that's causing the shift, not the handguard flexing.
1000007416.png
1000007417.png
 
I will note on this particular rifle I bridged the upper and handguard with the scope mount. Not intentionally, I just didn’t have a cantilever available and this was unused.

I have wondered about bridging my upper/rail with a low YHM riser and seeing if that would help stiffen the system and reduce the POI shift I've seen.

Or if they were still available, something like a Swan Sleeve.

I might mess with that this weekend.
 
Im kinda battling with this issue right now and im leaning toward it being a fundamentals-consistency issue while shooting my rig from prone with bipod far forward and rear bag. All my groups are around 1”-1.25” and in that group I will have 3-4 rounds stacked in a .5”-.6” group and then a couple shots that blow the group out to a inch or a little more…

Rifle is a vltor Mur upper receiver, PVA Osprey 6 arc barrel, Geissele mk18 rail(bipod attached via arca on the rail), suppressed with TBAC Ultra 7 .264.

I admit I don’t have nearly as much time trying to shoot ar’s at a level of precision like i do my bolt guns and thats why im thinking its definitely me and not the gun or load(i am handloading for this gun). Barrel has right at 200 rounds on it so it should be broke in. View attachment 8675382View attachment 8675383This is not always how it shoots but is kind of representative of how i can lay down some great groups and then the next is over an inch. Those smaller dots are right at 3/4”, the grid paper im shooting on is a weird scale.
Nice…I have almost an identical build that I just finished (MUR upper + 18” Osprey 6 ARC barrel + M89 15” Rail). I have yet to shoot it as im still working on some ammo with alpha brass and 107 smk’s.

IMG_3417.jpeg
 
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Nice…I have almost an identical build that I just finished (MUR upper + 18” Osprey 6 ARC barrel + M89 15” Rail). I have yet to shoot it as im still working on some ammo with alpha brass and 107 smk’s.

View attachment 8706494
Post what kind of results you are getting. I have only heard good things about the M89 rail. One thing i have started doing is incrementally placing the bipod closer to the receivers instead of all the way out toward the muzzle on the rail. I can only image there is more influence on the rail because of the increased leverage on the rail when the bipod is all the way toward the muzzle. I moved it back toward the receivers about 4-5” and noticed a little better consistency. I have much more work to do with my form and shooting gas guns.
 
Post what kind of results you are getting. I have only heard good things about the M89 rail. One thing i have started doing is incrementally placing the bipod closer to the receivers instead of all the way out toward the muzzle on the rail. I can only image there is more influence on the rail because of the increased leverage on the rail when the bipod is all the way toward the muzzle. I moved it back toward the receivers about 4-5” and noticed a little better consistency. I have much more work to do with my form and shooting gas guns.
Im almost done with the ammo so I will prob get to the range within the next few days and will post results. Note this barrel still has to break in so Im not going to scrutinize group size too much yet. I just want the gun to cycle properly during this first trip out 🤞
 
Im almost done with the ammo so I will prob get to the range within the next few days and will post results. Note this barrel still has to break in so Im not going to scrutinize group size too much yet. I just want the gun to cycle properly during this first trip out 🤞
Good deal, I have about 250-260 rounds on this barrel now so it’s as broke in as much as it will get by now.
 
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Good deal, I have about 250-260 rounds on this barrel now so it’s as broke in as much as it will get by now.
Ugh. Had the ammo all loaded up and ready to go on Friday night. Since I’m using new Alpha brass I incorrectly assumed I wouldn’t need to do any kind of shoulder bump and only have to chamfer/deburr and put some dry lube on the neck for bullet seating. Luckily before heading to the range this weekend I decided to test a piece of unloaded new brass to see how easily it chambered And I couldn’t really get it to chamber at all. It was way too tight (had to mortar to get it out). I had to end up bumping the shoulder back about 4 thou in order to get it to chamber and unlock easily. I hope to finish the ammo tonight and get to the range within the next few days.

This was odd to me since it closed ok on a 6 arc go gauge so I know the chamber plus headspaced rubber city bolt closes in min sammi spec. Must be the brass… this was super frustrating but I’m just glad I discovered this while I was still at the house and not at the range.
 
Ugh. Had the ammo all loaded up and ready to go on Friday night. Since I’m using new Alpha brass I incorrectly assumed I wouldn’t need to do any kind of shoulder bump and only have to chamfer/deburr and put some dry lube on the neck for bullet seating. Luckily before heading to the range this weekend I decided to test a piece of unloaded new brass to see how easily it chambered And I couldn’t really get it to chamber at all. It was way too tight (had to mortar to get it out). I had to end up bumping the shoulder back about 4 thou in order to get it to chamber and unlock easily. I hope to finish the ammo tonight and get to the range within the next few days.

This was odd to me since it closed ok on a 6 arc go gauge so I know the chamber plus headspaced rubber city bolt closes in min sammi spec. Must be the brass… this was super frustrating but I’m just glad I discovered this while I was still at the house and not at the range.
Interesting, I didn’t have to do anything with my virgin Alpha except lube the necks and run a mandrel through it.
 
Interesting, I didn’t have to do anything with my virgin Alpha except lube the necks and run a mandrel through it.
Hmm. Did you get a headspaced bolt and How tight was your barrel/bolt on a 6 arc go gauge? Mine closed but was super tight and I had to remove the extractor to close it. The chamber is probably something like .001” bigger than sammi min or right at it.
 
Hmm. Did you get a headspaced bolt and How tight was your barrel/bolt on a 6 arc go gauge? Mine closed but was super tight and I had to remove the extractor to close it. The chamber is probably something like .001” bigger than sammi min or right at it.
I sourced my own bolt(toolcraft dlc). I had a local gunsmith check headspace for me because he did it for free and thats a lot cheaper than buying a set of go-no go gauges. He didn’t give me measurements just said I was good to send it.
 
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Isn't that the M76 version? In order to make it work, wouldn't you have to cut off the anti rotation tabs from the handguard or mill in slots for them like on the M89 version? I believe it's also just slightly smaller at the flare in the receiver, so the M89/L89 handguard would sit a little proud since it's slightly larger in diameter than the M76/wedgelock.
 
Isn't that the M76 version? In order to make it work, wouldn't you have to cut off the anti rotation tabs from the handguard or mill in slots for them like on the M89 version? I believe it's also just slightly smaller at the flare in the receiver, so the M89/L89 handguard would sit a little proud since it's slightly larger in diameter than the M76/wedgelock.
Oh hell I don't know, I just saw somebody couldn't find a broadsword upper so I posted a link.
 
Anybody test a L89 mated not to a broadsword, but instead a regular milspec style upper to see how much extra rigidity is gained ( if any) with a broadsword upper?
 
I’ve been following this test since I first saw it posted on IG a while back.

I’ve ran these tests and through a bunch of positions, not just bipod far/near in modified prone etc.

My question is:
How does one accurately diagnose if the shifts are 100% mechanical shift in the rifle vs. a parallax/npa issue in different positions?
 
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My question is:
How does one accurately diagnose if the shifts are 100% mechanical shift in the rifle vs. a parallax/npa issue in different positions?
That's the $64,000 question.

My best answer is this:

1. Here's a 5x5 of a positional test I did with a Seekins SP10 builders kit that I built out.

1000007411.jpg


Here's just a prone load development target for the same gun.
1000007407.jpg


So when you look at the second photo you get a pretty good idea of the gun's accuracy. When you look at the first photo you see some of that accuracy but you also see some deviation. The first Prone -Far Bipod has a mean POI just under the center black line that is lined up with the .3-.4" white squares. The following two groups show a MPOI pretty much at the second line, just under the centerline. So about half a tenth a mil. The Tripod group is a complete outlier. The last group (left to right) is a repeat of the first group, Prone-far bipod. It is a zero shift commensurate with Group #2 and Group # 3(L->R). So I would grade the Seekins SP-10 as 0 mils zero shift. I attribute the tripod group as a NPOA/ positional shift as I was trying to manage wobble zone and driving the gun completely different than I do in the prone or off a bag due to the increased wobble zone of "free-gunning" a clipped in tripod. The first group and last group needs an aggregate zero. Pretty close to groups 2&3.

2. Here's the contextual stuff that helps me calibrate my shit group analysis. I have dug into positional shooting quite a bit lately. I shoot a fair amount of PRS and started some isolation drills for positional shooting with my bolt guns. I started with a 5rd group at 100yds in the prone with no time pressure. Then I shot a 5rd group with no time pressure off a barricade and bag on a second dot right next to the prone zero group. Then I shot 5 individual rounds in a dot on a ProTimer. Starting at the ready, all gear in hand, on the beep drop into a barricade position and fire one shot in the 100yd dot. I did this for 5rds and compared the three 5rd groups. No zero shift. Then I used a tank trap and three 1" dots at 100yds on paper. I shot one round from the center crotch of the tank trap in the first dot, one round from the tip of one of the legs on the second dot, and then returned to the center crotch of the tank trap and fired a third round on the third dot, all in a ProTimer. So three rounds, three shots, three positions, three dots. I did this three times as three individual strings. So each dot would end up with an aggregate of three rounds from the same position, albeit from three different strings of fire. Using 9 rounds, 9 position changes, 3 dots and 2 positions over the course of three times strings, I built an aggregate. No POI shift.

This exercise helps calibrate your fundamentals and NPOA. I did this with two other guys. One guy did have a repeatable trend to throw rounds right on position changes. This is how you suss out NPOa influences after you shoot a diagnostic positional test. It is a series of escalating dot drills that can illuminate positional influences

That's my best answer.
 

Isn't that the M76 version? In order to make it work, wouldn't you have to cut off the anti rotation tabs from the handguard or mill in slots for them like on the M89 version? I believe it's also just slightly smaller at the flare in the receiver, so the M89/L89 handguard would sit a little proud since it's slightly larger in diameter than the M76/wedgelock.
M89 Broadsword uppers are now in stock at Rooftop Defense...if I didn't just buy a San Tan Billet Upper I'd get grab one

 
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