Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
I've noticed people's preferred action screw torque varies a lot. Reccomendations go from 20 to 65 inch pounds. My groups had recently opened up a bit a my POI shofted up about 0.4 MRAD. I cleaned the barrel and torqued them to about 50 inch pounds each and it seemed to help, mine is in a KRG Bravo.
I would be interested to hear more opinions about action screw torque. I know it has come up before but it seems to be kind of a wild card.
I would be interested to hear more opinions about action screw torque. I know it has come up before but it seems to be kind of a wild card.
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Minuteman
Yes, this is what we have found between different rimfire actions. This is why we recommend sticking with your factory specs or give a wide estimate of 15-45 inch pounds. Rimfire can be very finicky, and since you can't reload to tune your rifle, things like action screw torque come into play more so than you would see in Centerfire.
-Paige
Per KRG T1x and T3 use the same torque 65 in lb max. They recommend to not go under 45 inch pounds if you want to try different torques.
I set mine at 65 and it shoots one hole groups all day long.
I had my T1x ACE torqued at 35inlb and felt I was constantly get a slight horizontal zero shift.
Have gone up to 55inlb recently and it seems to be better amd the groups have tightens up a bit. Should probably try going to 65 and see what happens to group sizes.
I want to say Beretta told me 65 inch pounds as well but I can’t find any email from them. But I have the email from KRG. I know CZ recommends less but tikka t1 and T3 call for similar. Tikka does have something in their manual about lower torque for some plastic part.
I appreciate the info. I did read the Bravo installation instructions but was a little shy about torquing rimfire action screws that much.
I was too but like a buddy pointed out it’s a metal receiver. I technically only did 55-60 inch pounds at one time because that’s all my wheeler wrench would do
The manual tells you to exceed 62 inch/lbs.
It just seemed like kind of a lot and they made no distinction between rimfire and centerfire installation.
Why are some of y’all saying 65lbin is a lot? That is pretty much standard for most all actions with most stocks / chassis except maybe non pillar bedded wood or the cheap factory plastic stocks.
I am sure it will be 100% as accurate as 65lbin but that probably has more to do with the stock than the action. 3lbin is within the tolerance of most torque wrenches.
I’ve always had my T1X torqued around 25 - 30 in-lbs in my Bravo. I decided to torque it to 62 in-lbs today after reading the latest posts. I’m sure 65 in-lbs would have been fine too 
Unfortunately I will be out of the country until the end of the month
I’ll have to wait until then to see how it works out.
Unfortunately I will be out of the country until the end of the month
I’ll have to wait until then to see how it works out.I have one T1x set up as a hunter/plinker in a factory T3x stock. Now I've added another left hand T1x that I want to set up in a chassis and possibly rebarrel. Not for PRS in this case, just as a general precision rig for range matches, etc, but on the lighter end of the spectrum.
Would appreciate any suggestions on the pros/cons of the following:
Left-hand chassis options:
- Grey Birch. Good? Bad? Ugly? Note that on their site, it looks like only the La Chassis T1X 10" fore-end version is available in left hand.
- MDT. Several I'm interested in, including Oryx, LSS Gen 3. These are listed on their site for T3x and T1x compatibility. Good/bad/ugly? How do the MDT options compare to Grey Birch?
- XLR Element 4.0. I have an Element 3.0 on Tikka T3x and have been overall pretty happy with it. But interested in how this compares to MDT and Grey Birch, if anyone knows.
Prefit barrel options: Who are some top choices for CF and steel prefits?
- Proof CF or steel
- IBI?
- Lothar Walther?
- Other?
Would appreciate any suggestions on the pros/cons of the following:
Left-hand chassis options:
- Grey Birch. Good? Bad? Ugly? Note that on their site, it looks like only the La Chassis T1X 10" fore-end version is available in left hand.
- MDT. Several I'm interested in, including Oryx, LSS Gen 3. These are listed on their site for T3x and T1x compatibility. Good/bad/ugly? How do the MDT options compare to Grey Birch?
- XLR Element 4.0. I have an Element 3.0 on Tikka T3x and have been overall pretty happy with it. But interested in how this compares to MDT and Grey Birch, if anyone knows.
Prefit barrel options: Who are some top choices for CF and steel prefits?
- Proof CF or steel
- IBI?
- Lothar Walther?
- Other?
62 in/lbs for metallic trigger guards, 44 in/lbs for plastic, for the future readers that find this thread.
From memory around 23.5mm is the maximum you can go.
I know guy who went for a straight 1.25" and stepped it down to fit in the action, but ended up with a few issues and had to bed the first part of the barrel to support it.
A straight contour barrel at the maximum diameter wouldn't be too bad balance wise.
But I'd probably say just do a CZ build, seems to be the easiest option without going full custom.
The barrel dimensions diagram on the Proof Research CF prefit barrel for the T1x might give an idea.
Tikka Pre-Fit
proofresearch.com
The proof is stepped up to 0.90 which is good info. The question the diagram doesn't answer, however, is what is the smaller shank diameter? The Proof is like 2lb barrel, whereas if you run a .90 straight out to 24-25 inches in plain steel (or something similar for balance), you're goning to be alot heavier. It would be nice to know what stage a steel barrel is too much weight for the smaller shank, without bedding it.
My 25.5" medium palma weighs 4.36lb (1981grams) and doesn't have any issues.
I don't think a straight contour would add much more than that.
L3i have said a 24" 1.18" barrel is fine in the CZ, and I know a guy shooting a straight 24" 1.2" without issue.
Anschutz also do some very long, heavy barrels with a similar setup.
For whatever reason it just seems like an ultra heavy stepped barrel may be an issue with the Tikka, but a straight .9" is probably not going to be a problem.
Was looking at Tikka as i like the idea of centerfire ,rimfire combo as centerfire tikka actions are superb to make an open rifle on, but i see rimfire Tikka is not best candidate for Open rifle build.
As a guy who put an IBI on a T1X and did well, I have to say that the CZ457 my wife is shooting is in fact the better way to success.
What makes the CZ better? Are you talking specifically about upgrading barrels or just the platform overall?
The barrel changes. Also, my stock CZ barrel performs far better than my stock T1X barrel ever did. The CZ groups at 200 are round. The factory Tikka barrel was spread 6”-8” vertically.
CZs just work.
Almost never see a feeding, or ejection issue with them.
The magazines don't seem to ever wear out.
Barrel replacements are much easier and you can go for a much thicker one.
Other than sharing an action foot print with a centrefire, there's no real reason to go for a T1x build.
Well that is the reason I got one, and even then it doesn't share an exact footprint as it does not fit in all T3 aftermarket stocks.
It does have the same foot print, it's the magwell insert the messes with things, some will fit but not all.
So yeah, with that in mind, you may as well just get a CZ 457.
Hmmm, I did just buy a new rifle but maybe I do need another .22. Are they that much more accurate? Their heavy contour barrel looks heavier than the T1X.
Accuracy is luck dependent, not sure the CZ match chamber will be better but shouldn't be any worse.
The CZ match barrels are a lot heavier, but you have to pay a lot more for a MTR or a LRP. Probably better off buying the cheapest possible model and doing a rebarrel.
Not necessarily, there are a bunch of varmint and match models and it's not always obvious which models have the match chamber
I'm not a CZ expert, but most people say the match chamber is well worth paying for.
Probably best to take further discussion to the CZ thread.
