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Tikka T1X

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I love my T1X. I’ll be buying the AT-X tikka chassis and making it a clone of my center fire AI, very soon.
 
I've noticed people's preferred action screw torque varies a lot. Reccomendations go from 20 to 65 inch pounds. My groups had recently opened up a bit a my POI shofted up about 0.4 MRAD. I cleaned the barrel and torqued them to about 50 inch pounds each and it seemed to help, mine is in a KRG Bravo.

I would be interested to hear more opinions about action screw torque. I know it has come up before but it seems to be kind of a wild card.
 
I've noticed people's preferred action screw torque varies a lot. Reccomendations go from 20 to 65 inch pounds. My groups had recently opened up a bit a my POI shofted up about 0.4 MRAD. I cleaned the barrel and torqued them to about 50 inch pounds each and it seemed to help, mine is in a KRG Bravo.

I would be interested to hear more opinions about action screw torque. I know it has come up before but it seems to be kind of a wild card.
Yes, this is what we have found between different rimfire actions. This is why we recommend sticking with your factory specs or give a wide estimate of 15-45 inch pounds. Rimfire can be very finicky, and since you can't reload to tune your rifle, things like action screw torque come into play more so than you would see in Centerfire.

-Paige
 
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I've noticed people's preferred action screw torque varies a lot. Reccomendations go from 20 to 65 inch pounds. My groups had recently opened up a bit a my POI shofted up about 0.4 MRAD. I cleaned the barrel and torqued them to about 50 inch pounds each and it seemed to help, mine is in a KRG Bravo.

I would be interested to hear more opinions about action screw torque. I know it has come up before but it seems to be kind of a wild card

I've noticed people's preferred action screw torque varies a lot. Reccomendations go from 20 to 65 inch pounds. My groups had recently opened up a bit a my POI shofted up about 0.4 MRAD. I cleaned the barrel and torqued them to about 50 inch pounds each and it seemed to help, mine is in a KRG Bravo.

I would be interested to hear more opinions about action screw torque. I know it has come up before but it seems to be kind of a wild card.
Per KRG T1x and T3 use the same torque 65 in lb max. They recommend to not go under 45 inch pounds if you want to try different torques.

I set mine at 65 and it shoots one hole groups all day long.
 
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Per KRG T1x and T3 use the same torque 65 in lb max. They recommend to not go under 45 inch pounds if you want to try different torques.

I set mine at 65 and it shoots one hole groups all day long.
I had my T1x ACE torqued at 35inlb and felt I was constantly get a slight horizontal zero shift.

Have gone up to 55inlb recently and it seems to be better amd the groups have tightens up a bit. Should probably try going to 65 and see what happens to group sizes.
 
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I had my T1x ACE torqued at 35inlb and felt I was constantly get a slight horizontal zero shift.

Have gone up to 55inlb recently and it seems to be better amd the groups have tightens up a bit. Should probably try going to 65 and see what happens to group sizes.
I want to say Beretta told me 65 inch pounds as well but I can’t find any email from them. But I have the email from KRG. I know CZ recommends less but tikka t1 and T3 call for similar. Tikka does have something in their manual about lower torque for some plastic part.
 
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I want to say Beretta told me 65 inch pounds as well but I can’t find any email from them. But I have the email from KRG. I know CZ recommends less but tikka t1 and T3 call for similar. Tikka does have something in their manual about lower torque for some plastic part.
I appreciate the info. I did read the Bravo installation instructions but was a little shy about torquing rimfire action screws that much.
 
I’ve always had my T1X torqued around 25 - 30 in-lbs in my Bravo. I decided to torque it to 62 in-lbs today after reading the latest posts. I’m sure 65 in-lbs would have been fine too 😁

Unfortunately I will be out of the country until the end of the month 😥 I’ll have to wait until then to see how it works out.
 
I have one T1x set up as a hunter/plinker in a factory T3x stock. Now I've added another left hand T1x that I want to set up in a chassis and possibly rebarrel. Not for PRS in this case, just as a general precision rig for range matches, etc, but on the lighter end of the spectrum.

Would appreciate any suggestions on the pros/cons of the following:

Left-hand chassis options:
- Grey Birch. Good? Bad? Ugly? Note that on their site, it looks like only the La Chassis T1X 10" fore-end version is available in left hand.
- MDT. Several I'm interested in, including Oryx, LSS Gen 3. These are listed on their site for T3x and T1x compatibility. Good/bad/ugly? How do the MDT options compare to Grey Birch?
- XLR Element 4.0. I have an Element 3.0 on Tikka T3x and have been overall pretty happy with it. But interested in how this compares to MDT and Grey Birch, if anyone knows.

Prefit barrel options: Who are some top choices for CF and steel prefits?
- Proof CF or steel
- IBI?
- Lothar Walther?
- Other?