Gunsmithing Bedding a chassis

[VandelayIndustries]

This might be a dumb question…Is bedding a chassis the same as bedding a stock? Tons of videos on YouTube of how to bed an action to a stock. I’m assuming it’s the same process and same materials for a chassis? I just read through the chassis bedding myth thread and decided I’d like to bed my chassis just to be on the safe side.

 

[Rob01]

Think long and hard about that. Do you see any reason to do it or just scared from a post?

 

[LRI]

A simple test:

Plop your stuff into the stock and tighten the rear action screw only. If the front end of your barreled action starts to point towards the sky, you bought the wrong chassis.

It's then up to you whether you sell it and move on, or squirt a tube worth of resin into the void to try and fix the OEMs poor design.

 

[Rob01]

If you have a heavy barrel that can happen to though.

 

[Baron23]

If you have a heavy barrel that can happen to though.

Why bc would cc a heavy barrel make the front end of the action rise?

 

[jthor]

Recently did a few of mine after I discovered stress in my “main” prs rifle. Just Dremel the area to rough it up, take out .050” behind the recoil lug area on the chassis with a mill and degrease the area before bedding.

 

[Rob01]

Why bc would cc a heavy barrel make the front end of the action rise?

He said barreled action. Heavy barrel will have a farther forward balance point.

 

[jthor]

I bedded mine without the heavy barrel spun on.

 

[Rob01]

Not talking about bedding but the balance point when he said the front of the barreled action will raise as you tighten rear screw.

 

[jthor]

I wasn’t replying to anything you said.

 

[Baron23]

He said barreled action. Heavy barrel will have a farther forward balance point.

Yes, but he said:

tighten the rear action screw only. If the front end of your barreled action starts to point towards the sky, you bought the wrong chassis.

It's then up to you whether you sell it and move on, or squirt a tube worth of resin into the void to try and fix the OEMs poor design.

So I still don’t know why a heavy barreled action in a poor in letting would make the barrel rise more than a lighter barrel.

Cheers

 

[Rob01]

Yes, but he said:


So I still don’t know why a heavy barreled action in a poor in letting would make the barrel rise more than a lighter barrel.

Cheers

Because the barrel is heavy and the balance point is not going to just let the action sit in a stock or chassis and not have the barrel weigh down the front. I have had bedded stocks that did that. Unless the front 1.5” under the chamber is bedded then it may not.

 

[Rob01]

I wasn’t replying to anything you said.

Thought you were mentioned heavy barrels. Sorry.

 

[Baron23]

Because the barrel is heavy and the balance point is not going to just let the action sit in a stock or chassis and not have the barrel weigh down the front. I have had bedded stocks that did that. Unless the front 1.5” under the chamber is bedded then it may not.

Ok, I think we may be talking past each other.

Yes, a heavy barrel moves the balance point forward.

But he said tighten the REAR action screw and see if the FRONT rises. I have a hard time seeing how adding more weight in front of the action (heavy barrel) would make the FRONT of the action rise more.

No worries and have a brilliant day

 

[BKH28]

If you have a heavy barrel that can happen to though.

I think he is thinking in terms of a tight fitting bedding job where you usually gotta have an action puller or a strong grip to get them out of the stock. With those the barrel typically doesn’t tip down even with the weight up front. Regardless, I agree with you, I haven’t ever seen an accuracy improvement from bedding a chassis or a bedding block on my stuff so I stopped doing it.

 

[Rob01]

Ok, I think we may be talking past each other.

Yes, a heavy barrel moves the balance point forward.

But he said tighten the REAR action screw and see if the FRONT rises. I have a hard time seeing how adding more weight in front of the action (heavy barrel) would make the FRONT of the action rise more.

No worries and have a brilliant day

He said front of barreled action. Not front of action.

 

[jthor]

Thought you were mentioned heavy barrels. Sorry.

Gotcha! Similar topic, but yeah I just forgot to mention it in my original post. I simply removed my barrel per my gunsmiths recommendation due to the barrels weight/makes it a lot more manageable compared to a hunting profile barrel.

 

[Rob01]

I think he is thinking in terms of a tight fitting bedding job where you usually gotta have an action puller or a strong grip to get them out of the stock. With those the barrel typically doesn’t tip down even with the weight up front. Regardless, I agree with you, I haven’t ever seen an accuracy improvement from bedding a chassis or a bedding block on my stuff so I stopped doing it.

If it’s that tight then he wouldn’t even have to worry about bedding it. Lol Yeah neither have I. All it does is limit what you can put in it and kill resale value. That is why I told him to check and to think about it before doing it.

 

[Cal97c]

I would bed any factory made action - while the chassis may be to spec, the action may not. I found this out the hard way, using a Remington 700 in a Dolphin chassis. It didn't take more than a skim to correct the difference between components and the difference was immediate.

 

[spife7980]

If you have a heavy barrel that can happen to though.

If your front action screw is tight and its stress free: it shouldn't be possible for it to move.

If tightening and loosening the the rear screw causes the barrel to shift, that means that the action is not in supported along its entire length, it is binding somewhere under load and thus not stress free and should be properly bedded.
If it were in proper contact the only way the barrel would be able to move is if the front screw was loose, otherwise there is no space in which movement could occur.

An example off of the internet where people measure the deflection that occurs from movement in the action with the change in torque on the rear screw.

 

[Rob01]

If your front action screw is tight and its stress free: it shouldn't be possible for it to move.

If tightening and loosening the the rear screw causes the barrel to shift, that means that the action is not in supported along its entire length, it is binding somewhere under load and thus not stress free and should be properly bedded.
If it were in proper contact the only way the barrel would be able to move is if the front screw was loose, otherwise there is no space in which movement could occur.

An example off of the internet where people measure the deflection that occurs from movement in the action with the change in torque on the rear screw.
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He said rear action screw only and what I was responding to.