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New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

cobravenom39

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 15, 2011
157
4
44
Illinois
Hey guys,

I've been reloading .223 and .308 on my Hornady LNl for semi-autos for years, but just get into .338 for my Barrett MRAD.

First, I'm going to get a single stage press from Hornady, but I'm unsure of what dies to get.

I'll be loading 200 and 225 hornady projectiles and shooting mostly out to 600 yards, up to 1500 at my inlaws property. I bought the MRAD for the .308 conversion and I'll graduate up to the .338.

I'm not trying to push the envelope on velocities and precision quite yet. I'm not that good of a shot. Go ahead and flame me for buying a $6K gun.

I'm not shooting competition, so I don't need the absolute best reloading dies on the market, but I have NO idea where to start. I've also never "neck-sized" a cartridge. I'll be using once fired lapua brass, retumbo powder and CCI magnum primers.

I'm liking the RCBS dies, they seem like a nice middle of the road compromise between Redding and lee.
Should I buy a set or go buy them individually?
Should I get a neck sizer only or get a FL, too?
What bushings should I get? I know I need to measure the neck od of a fired cartridge, but what range should cover it?

I've read a couple manuals and currently have the Hornady 9th edition, but I've never seen neck-sizing in action.

Thanks in advance for your help, guys.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

Well you dropped 6K on a gun so you shouldn't have any problem dropping a few hundred dollars on some quality dies like Redding. You just missed the Copper Creek %40 off all Redding products group buy but I would still look very hard at Redding Type S Bushing dies. You'll thank yourself later trust me.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

You're probably right. I shouldn't skimp out. I don't know if I need the comp dies, but the Type S Bushing Dies look alright. Is there a certain part numbers(s) I should get so I have everything I need?
Thanks again.

edit

What about this set? http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-eq...9724-71121.aspx

Also, what range of bushings should I get? I'll be using once fired Lapua cartridges. Should I get the Titanium Nitride? Do I need 2 bushings in each size? I looked on their website and it looks like there's 2 or 3 stacked in there.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

That set looks fine. Standard bushings should work just fine. For how to select bushings you can go to the Redding site. You should be able to measure a loaded cartridge and subtract 2 thou. I get three bushings myself but with a little luck two should get you the one you need.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

I've found that the Redding Type S Bushing dies that I picked up for my .338 are one of THE best investments I've made on the reloading side. The Micrometer Seating Die is the Cat's Ass...
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cobravenom39</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> You're probably right. I shouldn't skimp out. I don't know if I need the comp dies, but the Type S Bushing Dies look alright. Is there a certain part numbers(s) I should get so I have everything I need?
Thanks again.

edit

What about this set? http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-eq...9724-71121.aspx

Also, what range of bushings should I get? I'll be using once fired Lapua cartridges. Should I get the Titanium Nitride? Do I need 2 bushings in each size? I looked on their website and it looks like there's 2 or 3 stacked in there. </div></div>

I've loaded the 338LM for seven years and I've used just about all of the popular brands.

I now use the Redding body die for shoulder bumps and their neck bushing die with .365" TiNi coated bushing (no neck lube required) for most of my loading. I also have the Redding FL bushing die just for good measure.

I started out with the Hornady New Dimension inline seater die with their micro seating stem, but moved to a Forster micro seater and this seater works fine.

I load either Lapua, or Norma brass and I also have the .364" TiNi bushing, but don't use it that much, if at all.

Chris
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'm going to pick up the redding set, without the micrometer and the 365 TIN bushing. I can't find a hornady single stage press, though. Is there a shell plate for .338 that I can get in the meantime? I can run it like a single stage, then.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

Looks like you are headed in the right direction with type S dies and the .365 bushing. That is the same bushing I use and it works great on the Lapua brass. You won't be disappointed with the Redding dies. Buy once cry once really applies in this situation.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

your going to need a redding #35 or a RCBS #14 or # 37 dependenton brass
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

Why would you not get a seater die with a micrometer adjustment if you are going to buy a good neck bushing die set? Seems to me if you are going to spend money, spend it all and do it right the first time....just saying...
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SniperUncle</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why would you not get a seater die with a micrometer adjustment if you are going to buy a good neck bushing die set? Seems to me if you are going to spend money, spend it all and do it right the first time....just saying... </div></div>

You're right. They're out of stock everywhere, so I'll order a set from Brownells and save up enough in the meantime.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

Have you checked Midsouth or Graf&Sons for equipment. Things are scarce but a few more places to check won't hurt.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: George Hayduke</div><div class="ubbcode-body">your going to need a redding #35 or a RCBS #14 or # 37 dependenton brass </div></div>


If you can't find those the Hornady #43 will work as well.
 
Re: New to .338 Lapua - Need Die input

I ordered the Redding #35 with the dies. Also ordered the .365 & .366 coated bushings. Is there anywhere that delineates the neck sizing procedure? Video or text with pics would help while I wait for the dies to show up.

Not new to handloading, but never neck-sized only a rifle cartridge.

Thanks again for all your help, guys.
 
+1000 redding comp dies. They are phenomenal.

Now we wait. I must have just started looking after they shipped and sold most of them. I'll get the MRAD tomorrow, already have the nightforce 8-32.... just need something to feed it....
 
So I got the dies today and I'm glad I sprang for the Type S and the competition seater with micrometer. I read through the directions, and everything looks good. I have one question:

If I decide I need to use the FL die after cycling a casing a couple times, do I neck size first and then FL die, or vice versa?
 
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Anyone have any insight.

Did you buy a bushing neck sizer die and the competition seater?

If so, you need to either buy a FL bushing die, or their body die. I have both of these, but mostly use the body die and then the neck bushing die. You can do with one, or the other. The body die is less money.

I've mostly neck sized over the 12-13 cycles, but this one box of Norma brass was tough to unlock last week and I'm going to have to anneal and do the shoulder bump mamba.

They won't make it another cycle. Conincidentally, the box using Lapua brass, with maybe a few more neck sizing cycles, was easy to unlock (the bolt).

Chris
 
I have the FL die that came with the set. There's no bushing in it, though.

What do you have specifically?

I see that you got the Comp seater.

You have a FL die of some sort, but I'm not clear...is it a FL bushing die, or just a standard, run-of-the-mill, FL sizing die?

Did you also get a type S bushing neck sizing die?

If you got a standard FL sizing die, when you go to bump your shoulders back, you won't be able to control neck tension, which isn't the end of the world, but you bought the bushing die for a reason, right?

What you can do is just get the Redding 338LM body die and either sell off the standard FL sizer, or keep it as a spare.

If that FL die is a bushing die, then you're good to go there.

If you have a FL busing die AND a neck bushing die, then you can use the FL sizer as a body die to bump the shoulders back, or just size away using that with your bushings.

You might have some options.

Chris
 
I just have the standard FL sizer with no bushing. When I need to bump the should back, can I bump it with the FL and then neck size it in 2 steps?
 
I just have the standard FL sizer with no bushing. When I need to bump the should back, can I bump it with the FL and then neck size it in 2 steps?

No, you'll work harden those necks and in all probability, the standard FL sizing die will actually size your neck down more than that .365" and .366" bushing, so you wouldn't be doing much. In that case, just resize with the standard FL die and call it a day. Your neck tension, may, or may not, be the same as the other stuff made with the bushing neck sizer, but what the hell...

You kind of blew it, as I suspected.

Body die, or FL S bushing die, is what I believe you need.

Chris
 
This is the set I bought.

http://www.brownells.com/reloading/...turer_1=REDDING&avs|Cartridge_1=DCC_338 Lapua

I didn't even see where they sold a Bushing Neck and full length bushing die together.

p_749008267_1.jpg

See that shorter die, in the rear, on the right?

That's a 'body die', not a FL sizing die. That will bump your shoulders back when want to bump them back and not touch the neck portion of the case.

Not busting on you, as I don't mind helping, but you guys really need to know what you're buying, before you buy.

Chris
 
View attachment 867

See that shorter die, in the rear, on the right?

That's a 'body die', not a FL sizing die. That will bump your shoulders back when want to bump them back and not touch the neck portion of the case.

Not busting on you, as I don't mind helping, but you guys really need to know what you're buying, before you buy.

Chris

They don't sell that one in a set, though? So I should have just put them together piecemeal? Why would anyone buy a set, then?


Does anyone else think I need the bushing FL die, too? Does anyone else swear by it?
 
They don't sell that one in a set, though? So I should have just put them together piecemeal? Why would anyone buy a set, then?


Does anyone else think I need the bushing FL die, too? Does anyone else swear by it?

Your set consists of a S bushing neck sizing die, a body die and a Competition seating die.

A 'body die' =/= a FL sizing die.

If you have that set, that you linked me to and you're positive about it, then you don't have to buy a FL bushing sizing die.

Do some reading on your own via the search function here and look for 'body die'. You can google it too.


Chris
 
Thanks, Chris.

Man, I spent all last night searching on this site, google and Youtube and couldn't get a definitive answer. Do you .338 guys almost exclusively neck size for the first 3 or 4 loadings and then JUST do the FL die on the 4th or 5th loading? What if the neck is out of round? The FL won't fix that because it doesn't have the mandrel, right?
 
I F/L size with the Redding F/L bushing die every time. I use the .365 bushing and just bump the shoulder back .002". It's all about consistency and that's what seems to work for me. Expander ball for any dents in the neck but I don't normally use it.


L

BTW, if you are using the body die only you still have to neck size and that die does have the mandrel.
 
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Thanks, Layton

Should I use the body die and then neck size in that order when the case shows signs of insufficient headspace?

If you don't normally use the expander ball, how to you decap? Do you do it in a separate step prior?

Also, anyone know the headspace measurement of a factory Lapua 250 grain round? I don't have any factory rounds, but I'll be using the Lapua brass I got from Midway. I'll be measuring with my Sinclair's cartridge headspace gauge.
 
Anyone else with tips for using the redding dies or possibly the headspace on a loaded lapua cartridge?
 
Anyone else with tips for using the redding dies or possibly the headspace on a loaded lapua cartridge?

Spend the $45 and buy yourself the Hornady/Stoney Point headspace gage set. This set will allow you to measure a fired case from your chamber, arrive at a headspace number and then allow you to set your sizing die to precisely set back your shoulders, .002", or X, Y or Z distance.

It's really worth the money and you can do most bottleneck cartridges, with the set.

Chris
 
x2 on the Type S


Well you dropped 6K on a gun so you shouldn't have any problem dropping a few hundred dollars on some quality dies like Redding. You just missed the Copper Creek %40 off all Redding products group buy but I would still look very hard at Redding Type S Bushing dies. You'll thank yourself later trust me.
 
Spend the $45 and buy yourself the Hornady/Stoney Point headspace gage set. This set will allow you to measure a fired case from your chamber, arrive at a headspace number and then allow you to set your sizing die to precisely set back your shoulders, .002", or X, Y or Z distance.

It's really worth the money and you can do most bottleneck cartridges, with the set.

Chris
I have the Sinclair's equivalent headspace comparator and a box of 100 Lapua empty cases. The thing I don't have is a loaded round. I've had some on order for months and can't find loaded ammunition somewhere.

I want to compare my empty Lapua cases to a loaded Lapua round to see if I should bump it back more.

That being said, can anyone give me the headspace measurement on a loaded factory Lapua round, or tell me what the factory headspace measurement is?
 
Spend the $45 and buy yourself the Hornady/Stoney Point headspace gage set. This set will allow you to measure a fired case from your chamber, arrive at a headspace number and then allow you to set your sizing die to precisely set back your shoulders, .002", or X, Y or Z distance.

It's really worth the money and you can do most bottleneck cartridges, with the set.

Chris
I have the Sinclair's equivalent headspace comparator and a box of 100 Lapua empty cases. The thing I don't have is a loaded round. I've had some on order for months and can't find loaded ammunition anywhere.

I want to compare my empty Lapua cases to a loaded Lapua round to see if I should bump it back more.

That being said, can anyone give me the headspace measurement on a loaded factory Lapua round, or tell me what the factory headspace measurement is? Is the measurement off the unfired factory case ok?
 
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I have the Sinclair's equivalent headspace comparator and a box of 100 Lapua empty cases. The thing I don't have is a loaded round. I've had some on order for months and can't find loaded ammunition anywhere.

I want to compare my empty Lapua cases to a loaded Lapua round to see if I should bump it back more.

That being said, can anyone give me the headspace measurement on a loaded factory Lapua round, or tell me what the factory headspace measurement is? Is the measurement off the unfired factory case ok?

Every chamber is different.

Take a new case and chamber it in your weapon. If you can close the bolt easily, you can remove any dinged in mouths with the expander ball, campher/deburr the mouths, load them up and fireform them to your chamber and THEN measure them for headspace, bumping the shoulders back .002" for the second cycle.

You need to fireform those cases first and then check for headspace, assuming that they chamber in your rifle out of the box.

Chris
 
You need to fireform those cases first and then check for headspace, assuming that they chamber in your rifle out of the box.

Chris

+1. Your putting the proverbial cart before the horse. If you can close the bolt on an empty case there's no need to bump. Once you've shot em then bump back just enough to close the bolt. You probably won't have to on the first go round bit I f/l size and trim every time anyway. That's why I just use the F/L bushing die. Again though, I want those case dimensions to be as close to the same every time to ensure consistency. Of course you'll get arguments the other way but this is what works for me. My theory is a little bit can go a long way at 1500yds if that makes sense to ya.

L
 
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