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Gunsmithing What Torque for the Action Mounting Screws?

Viper1

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 14, 2013
16
0
Nothern Kentucky
Gentlemen,

Just a quick question on torque. What value do you use on the two action screws on the Rem 700? I've got the B&C "Medalist" stock and I set it to 61 in/lbs as I saw that in a magazine somewhere.

Many Thanks,
Rob
 
What bottom metal? I would not run that much on a factory bottom metal. Badger DBM I like 55. But I'm sure 61 is good to.
 
Many Thanks,
61 seemed a bit grand to me too so I backed'em off to 58, split our difference as it were. The chassis metal is 6061 T3 aluminum all around. I just don't want the action to move, at all.

Thanks and any other of y'all with wisdom to share please don't be dissuaded by the quick settlement. Please let flow. I'm a sponge for the stuff, knowledge that is, not the other stuff...well, not all the time anyway, you know, just on weekends and specially gunshows, only way I can get up the courage to "invest" the egg money.

Thanks,
Rob
 
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I do 65 in/lbs on my 700s. No stress on the factory bottom metal or action, no compression in the stock (aluminum bedding block B&C and a pillar bedded McMillan).
 
I use 65 in/lbs even with the remington aluminum bottom metal...no problems at all
 
With aluminum v-block stocks (HS Precision, AI, B&C, etc.) I use less torque on the rear screw to prevent stress on the rear tang. The V in the block pretty much ends an inch or so from the end of the tang and too much torque will use the V as a fulcrum and tend to bend the tang putting undue stress on the receiver.

I use 6.5 Nm (~57 in-lb) on the front screw and 4.5 Nm (~40 in-lb) on the rear on my HS Precision stock.
 
You guys using 65 inch pounds on factory 700 bottom metal are asking for trouble. I have seen it crack the B/M at the rear guard screw hole.

45 inch pounds is all you need on a properly bedded rifle.
 
You guys using 65 inch pounds on factory 700 bottom metal are asking for trouble. I have seen it crack the B/M at the rear guard screw hole.

45 inch pounds is all you need on a properly bedded rifle.

I agree...for the fun of it I tested in 5 in/lb increments from 45 to 65 in/lbs and my zero and group size never changed. Proper bedding is more important than crazy tight.
 
"properly bedded" being the operative term here.

I've had "properly bedded" explained to me in terms of dial indicators and torquing the front action screw then the rear and seeing if the tang moves at all.

I skim-bedded my PSS and 5R as well as a couple of browning safari rifles and am happy with the results overall.

I just use 45 lbs and snug it up in about 5 in-lb increments back and forth until done.
 
Proper bedding is the key, and 55-65 Inch Pounds will do it (as everyone else has indicated).......Good Luck.......
 
You guys using 65 inch pounds on factory 700 bottom metal are asking for trouble. I have seen it crack the B/M at the rear guard screw hole.

45 inch pounds is all you need on a properly bedded rifle.

Been torquing to 65in/lbs for nearly 20 years without even 1 problem...including my old BDL 30/06 with cheap injection molded plastic stock and aluminum factory BDL metal
 
I torque to 65 in/lbs on my Badger M5 bottom metal. For factory metal I would recommend no more than 40-50 in/lbs.

Your torque settings will play into your shots a good bit. I started at 45 in/lbs and shot a 5-shot group...then added 5 in/lbs and shot a group and so on until I found a good setting for my load. Happened to be 65 in/lbs.
 
Originally Posted by FCrifles
You guys using 65 inch pounds on factory 700 bottom metal are asking for trouble. I have seen it crack the B/M at the rear guard screw hole.

45 inch pounds is all you need on a properly bedded rifle.
Been torquing to 65in/lbs for nearly 20 years without even 1 problem...including my old BDL 30/06 with cheap injection molded plastic stock and aluminum factory BDL metal

Not my experience over the last 20+ years and hundreds of rifles.
 
65inlbs here. If the bottom metal is cracking at 65inlbs then I say it has to deal with the shitty pot metal they use.
 
I just got a Manners T5 mini-chassis, and I'm wondering the same thing. My gunsmith previously told me to use 45 - 65 in/lbs. That was on an actual stock though, not mini chassis. Got the stock from Stockystocks, and their directions say to torque down the front screw first to 65 in/lbs, and then the back screw to 45 in/lbs so that you have the "floating tang" (not sure what that means). Does that sound right? The action is Rem 700, and the Manners has the Badger/M5 bottom metal.
 
I just got a Manners T5 mini-chassis, and I'm wondering the same thing. My gunsmith previously told me to use 45 - 65 in/lbs. That was on an actual stock though, not mini chassis. Got the stock from Stockystocks, and their directions say to torque down the front screw first to 65 in/lbs, and then the back screw to 45 in/lbs so that you have the "floating tang" (not sure what that means). Does that sound right? The action is Rem 700, and the Manners has the Badger/M5 bottom metal.

I think you'll get different directions from anyone you ask...

It is, however, generally accepted that you put the barreled action in the stock, stand it up with the butt on a table and the muzzle in the air and make sure the recoil lug is seated in the stock.
After that, I have always screwed in my action bolts by hand enough to hold the barreled action (probably 30 in/lbs).
Then I torque the front to whatever in/lbs (by front, I mean closest to the lug). Then I torque the rear last.
 
You guys using 65 inch pounds on factory 700 bottom metal are asking for trouble. I have seen it crack the B/M at the rear guard screw hole.

45 inch pounds is all you need on a properly bedded rifle.

Not all of us are using factory bottom metal.... Aluminum is aluminum. Pillar bedding is the key here.
I have always used 65 in/lbs