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K31?

jbell

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Jan 16, 2010
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    Lewiston, ME
    I am thinking about buying a vintage rifle to start tinkering on and think the K31 Swiss would be a fun and different rifle to try. I was thinking about a M41B but they seem to be hard to find. So then I thought I would buy a M41B with out the scope that Samco Global has and try and locate a scope and mount. I like both rifles and both calibers. My third option was going to buy a 1903 from Creedmoor Sports and then a 1 1/4" Unertl 8X and have it installed but that seems like a money pit. So after all this I think I may go with the K31 because from what I can see they are a bit more accurate and much less expensive. Aslo I can get ammo much cheeper for them that seems to be pretty good for cheep.

    What I am looking for is any suguestions eighter way on which one of these rifles I should get. I would also appreciate any info as what to look for in one of them (like desireable features/mfgs or things to look out for). Also a good source for purchasing one. Samco has the K31 but their add says cracked stock. I dont want a rifle with a cracked stock, but I am going to call them to see what is exactly ment by that.

    Well thanks in advance for all your help.
     
    Re: K31?

    I too am in the process of looking for a vintage sniper rifle to use in the new CMP vintage match. You need to take a look at the rule book and they'll show what is currenting legal. I'm going to wait as I understand that the new rules for 2013 will be coming out ~ March. A source for K31 is Simpsons Ltd., lots of them. However, under current rules the K31 is only legal with the sniper version K31/42 or K31/43 which has an integral scope. Not so with the Swedish 41b as it allows the use of a Weaver K4 (lot cheaper than an Ajack @ $1k+...). Maybe the new rules will give some more options...for a variety of the platforms due to the interst.
     
    Re: K31?

    Hey, thank you much. I will check out Simpsons. Also will look at the new rules coming out in March. Good info!
     
    Re: K31?

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chansen49</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

    03a3? </div></div>

    OH I know, I just like different rifles. I have however been thinking about getting the one Creedmoor Sports sells and taking the scope off, having the barrel drilled and cutting the handguard for a Unertl.
     
    Re: K31?

    jbell ,i have one of the K31 rifles they said has a cracked stock and i couldnt find a single crack in it .It did have some arsenal repairs to the wood that leaves straight black lines of glue which im guessing they say are cracks .In fact this rifle was used very little before i got it .Arnie
     
    Re: K31?

    That is good to hear. I am still tring to figure out if I want to order one sight unseen, I am kinda fussy. Thank you!
     
    Re: K31?

    It's always funny to see and hear people talk about scoping a rifle before they learn how well it shoots with the sights god gave it..

    75953293.jpg


    After that I get a kick out of them wanting to zero ad 50 yards and even 25. Most are zeroed at 300 but these nice folks start grinding or changing the front sight and then expect to move on out to 200 yards. LEARN YOUR AIM POINTS!

    $99 ea.

    k310011_zpsf0226a77.jpg
     
    Re: K31?

    The Swiss did a couple things to these sights to make them very useable out to 1km. The rear sight is counter-cut to eliminate shadowing. And the front sight is very easy to move, but still remain stiffly in place when set {and lightly staked}.

    My 1951 will shoot a .5 moa group at 100 yds. My 1956 would shoot 1-1.25 moa. I made a load that was pretty close to GP-11 and three people at the range were able to get first round hits @ 1k. Likewise it was very easy to hit @ 1k with GP-11, you just had to drop the sight from 900-800 (meters)

    No need to scope these, as MJ1 said, "Shoot it with the sights god gave it."
     
    Love the new format where all the pictures are line address. BIG improvement. Nothing better than adding an extra step to each post.
     
    Always wanted to pick one of these up. Only one I've seen recently they wanted $689 for though and I don't need one that bad.
     
    I bought a K-31 for my younger son last year- fitted it with a Swiss Products side mount, and Bushnell 10X tactical.
    I bought the d&t mount because I didn't care for the way their bolt-on mount positions the scope on the scope on the right side of the rifle. Some guys say you get used to it, just seemed too unnatural to me.

    I will say they are probably the most outstanding value today (for about $300 still), and extremely accurate. I've been unable to produce handloads that shoot any better than the GP-11 ammo- it's good stuff, but getting in short supply. I'll add the case hardening on that receiver was ridiculous....took two carbide bits on each hole just to break through the outer hardening.

    Outstanding quality for a milsurp.
     
    a buddy of mine has a K31 that he uses regularly to whip my ass at our vintage matches. I'm using my 1891 Argy Mauser, and he makes me look like I'm shooting a Red Ryder.
     
    I am thinking about buying a vintage rifle to start tinkering on and think the K31 Swiss would be a fun and different rifle to try. I was thinking about a M41B but they seem to be hard to find. So then I thought I would buy a M41B with out the scope that Samco Global has and try and locate a scope and mount. I like both rifles and both calibers. My third option was going to buy a 1903 from Creedmoor Sports and then a 1 1/4" Unertl 8X and have it installed but that seems like a money pit. So after all this I think I may go with the K31 because from what I can see they are a bit more accurate and much less expensive. Aslo I can get ammo much cheeper for them that seems to be pretty good for cheep.

    What I am looking for is any suguestions eighter way on which one of these rifles I should get. I would also appreciate any info as what to look for in one of them (like desireable features/mfgs or things to look out for). Also a good source for purchasing one. Samco has the K31 but their add says cracked stock. I dont want a rifle with a cracked stock, but I am going to call them to see what is exactly ment by that.

    Well thanks in advance for all your help.

    A friend of mine has a K31 and during one of our shoots I was on the target team and he was up to shoot. After 5 shots he radioed to check the target. Walked out there he had a 13" group. Doesnt sound so great but considering the target was at 600 yards and he was using the stock iron sights I was pretty impressed. Good luck choosing
     
    It's rare to find a K-31 that's NOT in great shape...
    Keep in mind, these rifles never saw wartime action- and, never saw a single round of corrosive-primed ammo...
    Always a good idea to put eyeballs on it if you can, or at least pics of the actual rifle- but it's rare that you'd get one that you'd be unhappy with.
     
    outstanding rifles. Very smooth and extremely accurate. I did not like any of the scope mounting options for this rifle. Tried the side mount and the scout mount, and ended up ditching the scope idea. Scopes look very out of place on these rifles, and you need eyes on the top of your head to get a good cheek weld. I added a set of Mojo sights to mine and greatly improved my accuracy. You wont be disappointed. You should be able to pick one up in the $300 tio $400 range.
     
    Is the K-31 going to shoot much better than the other in that line of Swiss rifles (M1896 / 11, K1911, K1911 Carbine) ?
     
    I was told by someone that the Swiss were monetarily responsible if they allowed their rifle to get rusty in the bore. That would explain why you rarely hear about a Swiss rifle with a bad bore.
     
    the 1911's shoot as good as the K31's, longer sight radius also. the action is supposed to be not as strong as the 31 tho.
     
    outstanding rifles. Very smooth and extremely accurate. I did not like any of the scope mounting options for this rifle. Tried the side mount and the scout mount, and ended up ditching the scope idea. Scopes look very out of place on these rifles, and you need eyes on the top of your head to get a good cheek weld. I added a set of Mojo sights to mine and greatly improved my accuracy. You wont be disappointed. You should be able to pick one up in the $300 tio $400 range.

    I agree, but I scope everything :)
    I just have permanent objection to a side-mount scope, can't stand having that inherent "offset" error, bugs the hell out of me.
    Keep in mind, though- the Swiss DID make a sniper version of the K-31 (K-31/55) equipped with a scope...very rare, and very pricey...
     
    I have been after a K31 for a couple years now but cant make myself buy one thats up in the 500-600+ range, i wish i would have bought one of these when they were cheaper. Where are you guys finding these in the 300-400 range? I already have my dies and everything ready to go. I found a deal on a K1911 about a year ago and i picked it up for 125, and its a pretty cool little rifle. The bolt is much longer than a K31 and the lugs are not as strong, which is where most were having problems with them. I ran a serial number check and mine was made in later years when they were made a little stronger but the Swiss still wanted something better so the K31 was born and it fixed all the earlier problems.
     
    I have been after a K31 for a couple years now but cant make myself buy one thats up in the 500-600+ range, i wish i would have bought one of these when they were cheaper. Where are you guys finding these in the 300-400 range? I already have my dies and everything ready to go. I found a deal on a K1911 about a year ago and i picked it up for 125, and its a pretty cool little rifle. The bolt is much longer than a K31 and the lugs are not as strong, which is where most were having problems with them. I ran a serial number check and mine was made in later years when they were made a little stronger but the Swiss still wanted something better so the K31 was born and it fixed all the earlier problems.

    Which dies? You will want to go with a sizing die specifically for the K31, i.e. the Redding 91235. The K31 has a roomier chamber than the previous 7.5x55 Swiss rifles.
     
    Took my K-31 out today. With GP-11, I had a first round hit on steel at 500 yards, Just slid the sight goody up and sent it. A second later, a nice "clunk" report. :)


    Ch
     
    Which dies? You will want to go with a sizing die specifically for the K31, i.e. the Redding 91235. The K31 has a roomier chamber than the previous 7.5x55 Swiss rifles.

    Good info!

    I got to get on the ball, you guys are making me want one more and more!
     
    Lee has a set of 4 dies that come with a neck only die for $38. Graf's has or had brass.

    e0991a65.jpg
     
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    Which dies? You will want to go with a sizing die specifically for the K31, i.e. the Redding 91235. The K31 has a roomier chamber than the previous 7.5x55 Swiss rifles.

    I am running some old lees for my k1911 and they seem to work fine. I will track down some k31 specific ones when i get one for sure though man. Thanks for the info, wouldnt have known that :D
     
    I am running some old lees for my k1911 and they seem to work fine. I will track down some k31 specific ones when i get one for sure though man. Thanks for the info, wouldnt have known that :D

    When I first started reloading for the K31, Redding was the only company to make the larger shape for the K31 specifically. I have a set of Hornady custom dies that size down to standard 7.5x55 size. It requires moving a lot of metal. The Redding does not.

    The first reloading book I used was the 1978 version of Sierra. Which tells me 1.345" up from the top of the case head groove, the case diameter measures .460". My latest Sierra book (5th ed. 2003) tells me to measure at the shoulder and it should be .457". As does my Hornady 7th edition (2007). My cases from the rifle I still have, and the one I used to have, measure .472" at the shoulder. If you try and scrunch .015" of shoulder metal down, make sure the cases are good and lubricated...along with your vocabulary, because of what you'll start saying when you size them down. It's also critical to do this because even though the body is wider (so cases always fit), headspace is tight (helps with accuracy. {Don't argue with the Swiss, they are usually right}). Nothing is ever exactly straightforward when reloading. Just expect it, think about how to find it when you have an issue, and what to do about once you do find an issue.
     
    Is the strength a problem if you dont load hot?
    No, as I understand it, they used theG-11 in it and it is pretty hot. As long as stay in parameters should be fine. They are fun rifles.
     
    No, as I understand it, they used theG-11 in it and it is pretty hot. As long as stay in parameters should be fine. They are fun rifles.

    GP-11 started usage in the 1911 Swiss. I would say stout at best. It is not a hot load.

    If you want to load hot, I would not recommend any rifle previous to the K31. The case head is not fully supported in previous rifles.

    Also, if you load hot, I wouldn't recommend going with a K31 for two reasons. First, if you load hot enough to get a stiff bolt, there is a lot less leverage to get the case out. Second, every K31 and previous rifles I've loaded for, accuracy falls off when loading up. They have all tended to prefer moderate loads with medium weight bullets. Mine has stabilized .208's but the accuracy is nowhere near as good as any of the match bullets in the 168-175 gr. I even tried 155 Scenars and they didn't shoot so well. That is until I loaded them down to 2600 fps.... 190's shot alright at about 2525 fps. Loading hot or fast in this rifle just does not work so well in my experience.
     
    GP-11 started usage in the 1911 Swiss. I would say stout at best. It is not a hot load.

    If you want to load hot, I would not recommend any rifle previous to the K31. The case head is not fully supported in previous rifles.

    Also, if you load hot, I wouldn't recommend going with a K31 for two reasons. First, if you load hot enough to get a stiff bolt, there is a lot less leverage to get the case out. Second, every K31 and previous rifles I've loaded for, accuracy falls off when loading up. They have all tended to prefer moderate loads with medium weight bullets. Mine has stabilized .208's but the accuracy is nowhere near as good as any of the match bullets in the 168-175 gr. I even tried 155 Scenars and they didn't shoot so well. That is until I loaded them down to 2600 fps.... 190's shot alright at about 2525 fps. Loading hot or fast in this rifle just does not work so well in my experience.

    My Uncle is Swiss, and he has a K-1911, from serial number, made in 1917. I just did up some loads for this rifle, using new Norma brass. I am a little confused, as the books say only to load up to 47gr of IMR 4032. QuickLoad has Max pressure at 55411psi, higher than 50.6gr. The 47gr load only is at 44,000psi. Do you know any more about this? I thought about doing a ladder test to find max pressure for that particular rifle, as it should have an OBT around 50.1gr. I don't want to damage this rifle, but a difference of 10,000+psi seems like a monstrous safety margin.
    Thanks,
     
    My Uncle is Swiss, and he has a K-1911, from serial number, made in 1917. I just did up some loads for this rifle, using new Norma brass. I am a little confused, as the books say only to load up to 47gr of IMR 4032. QuickLoad has Max pressure at 55411psi, higher than 50.6gr. The 47gr load only is at 44,000psi. Do you know any more about this? I thought about doing a ladder test to find max pressure for that particular rifle, as it should have an OBT around 50.1gr. I don't want to damage this rifle, but a difference of 10,000+psi seems like a monstrous safety margin.
    Thanks,

    Welcome to the world of "lawyers&liability". The extremely low number is so nobody can get in over their heads with the older rifles. Truth is the older rifles are built pretty damn good. Just that there is no one to sue if you blow it up.
    I'm not a real fan of quickload as I've seen it give generally high loads with some very important factors left out. Condition or vintage of the rifle. A K-31 will hold a lot more pressure than what the book loads give. An 1889 won't hold much more. Too often the rifles get lumped together when in fact, although they are both 7.5x55, they are a different round. Your rifle will shoot GP-11. I suggest getting a box of that and chronoing your loads and work up accordingly.

    As I mentioned before, the way the K-31 is made, and previous rifles dating back to the 1911, they don't like hot loads. They like moderate loads with moderate weight bullets. Work up for decent accuracy and stop there. Keep going up and you have more issues coming into play than poor accuracy. The straight pull action doesn't handle stiff loads well. Not because it isn't strong, but because you have no leverage removing a stiff case.

    My suggestion is to gather several sources and find a safe place to start and work up from. Be very cognizant of your accuracy. These rifles are very accurate provided you do your part. I suggest 175 SMK's or something around that weight with a decent BC. The problem with trying to reproduce GP-11 is that nobody on this side of the pond makes bullets as good as those. You can reproduce velocities, but I can pretty much guarantee you that at long range your bullet is going to fall short. My load is 50 gr. of H4831SC for my K31. I don't think that will be a hot load in your Uncles' 1911. But work up to it.

    I'll also have to say at this point, I don't know what 4032 is. I've never used it. I do know what 3032 is and 3031. It is very important you use the correct powder. Slight changes in numbers (and corresponding loads) can cause big problems. If you can't find readily available data for the powder you have I suggest getting a can of what there is available data for.
     
    Welcome to the world of "lawyers&liability". The extremely low number is so nobody can get in over their heads with the older rifles. Truth is the older rifles are built pretty damn good. Just that there is no one to sue if you blow it up.
    I'm not a real fan of quickload as I've seen it give generally high loads with some very important factors left out. Condition or vintage of the rifle. A K-31 will hold a lot more pressure than what the book loads give. An 1889 won't hold much more. Too often the rifles get lumped together when in fact, although they are both 7.5x55, they are a different round. Your rifle will shoot GP-11. I suggest getting a box of that and chronoing your loads and work up accordingly.

    As I mentioned before, the way the K-31 is made, and previous rifles dating back to the 1911, they don't like hot loads. They like moderate loads with moderate weight bullets. Work up for decent accuracy and stop there. Keep going up and you have more issues coming into play than poor accuracy. The straight pull action doesn't handle stiff loads well. Not because it isn't strong, but because you have no leverage removing a stiff case.

    My suggestion is to gather several sources and find a safe place to start and work up from. Be very cognizant of your accuracy. These rifles are very accurate provided you do your part. I suggest 175 SMK's or something around that weight with a decent BC. The problem with trying to reproduce GP-11 is that nobody on this side of the pond makes bullets as good as those. You can reproduce velocities, but I can pretty much guarantee you that at long range your bullet is going to fall short. My load is 50 gr. of H4831SC for my K31. I don't think that will be a hot load in your Uncles' 1911. But work up to it.

    I'll also have to say at this point, I don't know what 4032 is. I've never used it. I do know what 3032 is and 3031. It is very important you use the correct powder. Slight changes in numbers (and corresponding loads) can cause big problems. If you can't find readily available data for the powder you have I suggest getting a can of what there is available data for.

    Thank you, Sandwarrior. I am aware of the "evolution" of the Schmidt-Rubin rifle. I also know exactly which one this particular one is. First, the rifle was developed in 1886, with updates in 1889, and 1911. The Karbine version of the 1911 (hence K-11), was not built until after the updated changes to the action. (There is another update which came in the 20's or early 30's, engendering the K-31) I checked the serial number on this one, and it was built in 1917.
    I am running 168 SMK's for projectiles, and I have done the research on the loads with this powder. The 47gr load I mention is within the book specs in two manuals, as well as being relatively low pressure in QuickLoad. I have found QL to generally be conservative when I compare their max loads to the manuals in question.
    I also did find a source for the data differences. The book manuals that I have are working off the data from the Swiss. The Swiss rated the max pressure at some 68,000psi, and work off of a 150% max pressure to working pressure max data. This yields approximately 45,000max working pressure. The rest of Europe uses a different standard, still based on the 68,000psi max pressure, but only a 125% max pressure to working pressure max, yielding a 54,000psi datum point. Thus, in a way, QuickLoad is correct, (using the European standard) and the manuals are also correct, using the Swiss standard.
    Now, you say that the bolt is not friendly to hot loads, as, being a straight pull instead of a leveraged twist then pull, it is harder to open a slightly "sticky" chamber caused by higher pressures. I will definitely take that under advisement as I proceed.
    I worked the test ladder loads off of the 47grain load I was working with. I have made loads---3each---in increments of 0.3 added grains, and then as I approach the targeted charge of 50.1, I did singles of 49.8 and on up at 0.1 grain increments. I have extra rounds for the two loads for 50.0, 50.1 (target charge) and 50.2. I thought in this manner, I could shoot one round of each charge weight, from lowest to highest, (using a different POA for each step) and stop when the pressure signs became noticeable. If all went well, I could reshoot the second and then third rounds at their respective POA's and check 3 shot groupings in this way. I will be approaching it slowly, so the only thing I can see going wrong is that I find the pressure signs early and have a bunch of bullets to pull---no really big deal, as I have the .308 collet for my puller.
    Any one see a glaring deficiency in my plan?
    Thanks again for the input.

    Jbell, sorry, I don't mean to hijack your thread.....
     
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    Sniper Uncle,

    Sorry, my mind is not supposed to go out wandering alone. It says things it knows not what...

    Anyhow, Glad you are aware of the evolution of the Swiss rifles. There are actually more mods than that, but suffice it to say you know your's (uncle's) is a 1917 and it CAN shoot GP-11 which is a 'stout' load but not, IMO, hot.

    The reason I suggest not going hot with the Swiss rifles, is they mostly seemed tuned to moderate loads with moderate weight bullets for accuracy. When people start loading these hot and get sticky bolts is the reason I say never go there. I apologize as I didn't mean to say a sticky bolt is the main reason to keep these moderate.

    As far as quickload goes, they work alright for a modern rifle with much more standardized chambers and brass. A seating depth should be given as well. In older rifles is where I find the variables that I didn't introduce. Between the two methods I like running a ladder because of that. It allows you to find accuracy nodes along the way while staying in the safe realm. When working with new or non-standardized chambers Quickload will get you into trouble quickly. I found that out loading for WSM's and WSSM's. Again, variables we introduce that have a greater effect than what we expect.

    Anyhow, if you are comfortable with that starting load with that powder and working up, I'm thinking that is a good plan.

    -good luck
     
    Sniper Uncle,

    Sorry, my mind is not supposed to go out wandering alone. It says things it knows not what...

    Anyhow, Glad you are aware of the evolution of the Swiss rifles. There are actually more mods than that, but suffice it to say you know your's (uncle's) is a 1917 and it CAN shoot GP-11 which is a 'stout' load but not, IMO, hot.

    The reason I suggest not going hot with the Swiss rifles, is they mostly seemed tuned to moderate loads with moderate weight bullets for accuracy. When people start loading these hot and get sticky bolts is the reason I say never go there. I apologize as I didn't mean to say a sticky bolt is the main reason to keep these moderate.

    As far as quickload goes, they work alright for a modern rifle with much more standardized chambers and brass. A seating depth should be given as well. In older rifles is where I find the variables that I didn't introduce. Between the two methods I like running a ladder because of that. It allows you to find accuracy nodes along the way while staying in the safe realm. When working with new or non-standardized chambers Quickload will get you into trouble quickly. I found that out loading for WSM's and WSSM's. Again, variables we introduce that have a greater effect than what we expect.

    Anyhow, if you are comfortable with that starting load with that powder and working up, I'm thinking that is a good plan.

    -good luck

    Thanks so much for the info. Yes, I am aware that I didn't mention all the versions of the Schmidt-Rubin. I was short-cutting to the part about what this particular rifle is. Thanks for clarifying about the accuracy and being near mid loads. I have a hunch that one would find that coincides with the Optimum Barrel Time theory. I don't want to explain all that here, but that is behind my wanting to work slowly and carefully up towards the higher load if it can be done without pressure issues. This rifle has a long barrel. Even the Karbine version is as long a barrel as most current factory rifles, and the regular version is like many long barreled sniper rifles. I think you would find the best nodes around what I'm starting at, and where I want to go. In between, it's anybody's guess, and accuracy would definitely suffer.
     
    FYI - 7.5x55 brass IS available....just neck UP 284 Winchester brass. Extracts perfectly....and is a LOT cheaper than trying to find boxer primed 7.5x55 brass.
     
    It's always funny to see and hear people talk about scoping a rifle before they learn how well it shoots with the sights god gave it.

    Sadly, these old eyes that God gave me can't even see the iron sights, much less a target more than 100 yards downrange. That's why I put a 2X LER scope on my K31.

    K31002.jpg
     
    scope onto Schmidt Rubin K31

    I know that most people like to keep these rifle,s as is,But i am know near 70 and have the start of Cataracts. So no option in the UK shoot the gun or give it up to Plod along with My certificate.that last one is sticks in the old throat as My certs started in 1958. So not wanting to butcher an old classic i made a block to fit the rear sight base only retained by the original pin with scope mounted, shimmed into center ,and to go back to iron,s only got to knockout the pin remove scope ,block,rings et al .The real joy of these guns is the way in goes the rear sight and give to My young Nephew and at 600 M He blew out the V bull, out 10 shots 9 in the v bull I cannot do that with the scope matey now days . still if it goes bang i,m happy.cheers 12 bore
     

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    I just got a K31, I'm super excited about it. I've been looking for one for about a year now. The other rifle pictured is a Mosin Nagant 91/30 from the Foremost Factory at Tula (it's a hex receiver) with MO markings the original manufacture date is from 1925.. I've never seen a MO marked rifle and I've handled probably 1000 Nagants. I had a good haul this weekend. I'm digging the blonde stock on the K31. Also, it has a badass trigger on it. Seriously I Love it. I like the Nagants, I compete with an ex-sniper that George Tossan did up for me. But the history with the MO is really interesting. Mine is marked MO/53. Mosin Nagant MO Marks for those who would like to read a bit about it.

    I0XlDcS.jpg
     
    Well, the K-31 that followed me home the other day, finally got shot, along with my uncle's K-1911. Interesting thing, mine showed possible pressure signs when his did not. Never showed sticky bolt at all. Used Norma brass, and at higher charges, mine showed a little soot around a slightly flattened primer. Wonder if the primer pockets might be a bit loose? Also, see-able, but not feel-able, marks from the ejector slot. Again, no signs if sticky bolt.
    I loaded a series with OBT in mind, and if I could use the iron sights, I think the OBT worked as calculated. Shot kneeling, resting elbow on knee. Need to do a series of the bench, to determine accuracy. Got about 1MOA in height and 5MOA in width. Gotta work on iron sights----I need practice. Gun shoots great, and my wife lives it too. Probably will try to get some 175 grain bullets and do another OBT test, maybe with a different powder to lower pressure.
    Great gun, lots of fun!



    Edit: Forgot to mention---- the rifle is serial number matched with bayonet, barrel, and bolt matching. Had cleaning kit too. Beautiful piece.
     
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    Well, we got the K-31 and the K-11 out, and shot them a few days ago. Interestingly enough, it appears that the K-11 showed less pressure sensitivity than than the K-31. Just faint signs, mind you, more like seen but not felt. No sticky bolt, just a very slight mark from the ejector slot. A couple showed possible soot by the primer---I think the Norma primer pockets might be a tiny bit looser than some I have worked with. Redoing my calculations to check the max pressure calculations, and adjusting powder types to try to get better max pressures while still attaining velocity. I did not get a chance to chrono, but the book differs from QL on the expected velocities. Not sure where the differences lie.

    Any briliant Ideas, Any One???
    Thanks
     
    Sniper Uncle,

    What I've found with Norma Brass is that while good, the heads start out soft and need to be work hardened before stepping up to full power loads. I don't know why they do this but they do.

    With my 6.5x55, 7.65 Argy and .308 Norma mag, I fire all 'moderate' loads first, then work up on the second round. After the first round on that brass they seem to take normal pressures. It's a little frustrating, but I've had the stuff go 20 rounds before having to toss it (6.5 & 7.65).
     
    That's cool, Sandwarrior, thanks for the info.

    I did figure it out, though. While reading about K-31's, I came across something about them having very short throats. I had done my load work ups based on the Hornady manual and the spec for the GP-11 rounds as far as COAL.
    To my horror, when I measured my chamber, the MAX COAL for my chamber is 2.900 instead of 3.025 for that bullet. I about shit myself when I measured that for the third time. Any way, I guess I got one with a throat that has no wear what-soever.
    I pulled the bolt apart, and everything looks perfect. According to QL, while I was higher than I wanted, I was not over 60K, and the Swiss proof is at 68,250 PSI, so no harm done.
    Lesson learned, measure chamber immediately after purchasing a new gun.