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Does a Spuhr Mount need LAPPING?!!!

P

Pleistarchus

Guest
Took out my rig last weekend. New Scope and mount. Setting the scope screws at the recommended torque I noticed movement. Never anticipated that from a $400 mount. I am shooting a .338LM 300gr Scenar. Haven't heard of anyone with these issues. Do these mounts need lapping, loctite or am I missing something?
 
Pleistarchus said:
Took out my rig last weekend. New Scope and mount. Setting the scope screws at the recommended torque I noticed movement. Never anticipated that from a $400 mount. I am shooting a .338LM 300gr Scenar. Haven't heard of anyone with these issues. Do these mounts need lapping, loctite or am I missing something?
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I had the same thing happen with my DTA SRS in 308win and a S&B 5-25x56. It ended with the finish being rubbed off a bit on the tube (no functional issues, thank goodness). If you read the instructions carefully, they "recommend" using something akin to Brownell's Rosin around the scope tube/inside ring interface and blue loctite on the screws. I did both and since then have had zero issues.
 
Early Cuyler said:
I had the same thing happen with my DTA SRS in 308win and a S&B 5-25x56. It ended with the finish being rubbed off a bit on the tube (no functional issues, thank goodness). If you read the instructions carefully, they "recommend" using something akin to Brownell's Rosin around the scope tube/inside ring interface and blue loctite on the screws. I did both and since then have had zero issues.
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Never considered "The Range" on a benchrest a situation with severe vibrations, which is their recommendation. Or, using loctite in extreme conditions......I'm in Miami and it was a beautiful day 85 degrees. This just left a bad taste in my mouth and it tastes like Swedish meatballs!!
 
Oh yeah, believe me I know the feeling. I initially questioned the really low ring torque value (comparatively to Seekins/IOR/Leupold Mark 4) but figured it was their design so they must know what they're doing. So after sighting it in and noticing the movement, I re-torqued them figuring I didn't do a good job. After taking it out again (at a comp this time) and seeing movement AGAIN, I freaked out and PMed Hakan on here. He directed me to the part in the instructions about the rosin and loctite. The language is there so I don't feel I have much of a right to be upset (that and it's purely cosmetic). Now I just try to make new owners aware of what happened to me so they can get some of the rosin.
 
Also, PM me your address and I'll send you a bit of the rosin. I see on Brownell's it's back-ordered and the 1lb tub I bought is waaaaaaaay more than I'll ever need (it takes VERY little).
 
I've heard lots of hype about these mounts being one of the best on the market. What are the other qualities that make it so good if it doesn't hold the scope in place without rosin and loctite? (note: I'm not trying to be an ass...honest question)
 
bluto77 said:
I've heard lots of hype about these mounts being one of the best on the market. What are the other qualities that make it so good if it doesn't hold the scope in place without rosin and loctite? (note: I'm not trying to be an ass...honest question)
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How about you educate your self rather than asking, in the end it is still your own opinion that dictates if you get Spuhr mounts or not. There are so many good and a few more bad choices to be made regarding scope mounts/rings right now. IF I had missed out on/skipped to read the manual I would not be talking down a product, but to each his own. /Chris
 
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Thank you for your input my friend. I have educated myself on my own, but getting feedback from people that actually own the product is also part of the educating process. I have spoken with several that feel these rings are well worth the money. Now I'd like to hear from the other side. Are you familiar with them? Have you used them before?
 
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Advokaten said:
How about you educate your self rather than asking, in the end it is still your own opinion that dictates if you get Spuhr mounts or not. There are so many good and a few more bad choices to be made regarding scope mounts/rings right now. IF I had missed out on/skipped to read the manual I would not be talking down a product, but to each his own. /Chris
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Meant no offense to you sir. Maybe I should have read the manual "Before I bought the product". Even then, it is misleading to say loctite or rosen is needed when confronted with abnormal conditions when these products are needed in normal conditions. /Advokaten:confused:
 
I think something is being lost in translation with Advokaten's post as I doubt he intended to come across like he did.

Bluto, an advantage to Spuhr mounts is the ability to mount other accessories on the mount easily such as an angle indicator, red dot at 45*, etc. Plus the mounts already have a built-in level to determine whether the rifle is canted.

Honestly, the cost of the Spuhr and my less than stellar experience with my mount (beyond the scratched S&B) will probably keep me from buying another. It works fine now how I use it, but with so many excellent options on the market at significantly lower prices, I doubt my next ring/mount will be Spuhr. Now only if Mr. Glenn at Seekins would build a mount.....
 
Early Cuyler I'm surprised at how well your taking that scratch(at least $300 depreciation on resale). I mounted a brand new PMII 5-25 myself but had no marks or scratches......very lucky. As for Advokaten's post I don't think anything is being lost in translation. He's clearly disappointed......either at my "Swedish Meatball" remark which was wrong and I apologize to all my Swedish friends, or, he works for Hakan and........well. Whatever the case, I believe, I and you, have the right to be angry when a high end, or highest end product not only does not perform the initial task in which it was built for but risks damaging an investment like a Schmidt and Bender. If I bought an NcStar mount for my Schmidt and damaged it wouldn't you say "it serves me right". Well what do you say now.
 
I used to have optilocks, but now i have a Spuhr on each of my rifles, two 308s, one 338 and one .22, and sofar none of them have had any issues the way described overhere. I do not use loctite on any of them, however, i do use a little bit more torque than described. Not that i do not trust the given torque advice from Spuhr, but i dont trust my torque tools. The problem with torque tools is that they need to be checked and calibrated at least once a year, or when used more heavily even more times per year.
Sofar none of the torque tools pre calibrated gave the exact amount they should, and i have from very "plain"seekonk t-handles to very expensive adjustable ones. So that is the reason i always give them a little bit more torque than adviced, most of mine get the torque adviced power and then some hand powered torque afterwards. Long time ago i only used the seekonks, 65 for the base and 15 for the rings...but lost one scope that way during a match, and since then everyhting gets that little extra hand torque.

It would be nice if the given advice on any product would be exact, but it aint no perfect world.
I have seen Nightforce scopes brake down by a little bit of rain, while they are sold as being water proof. Does this give me less trust in Nightforce? Hell no, cause i have seen the same shit happen to much more expensive scopes aswell.

It is just common sense.

In my personal opinion, Spuhr mounts are great through their multi funcitonality and quality, but there are many other mounts that are just as good quality wise, none of them however are better and most of them do not have al the different install and canting options. But if you do not need any fancy smancy extra shit on your scope mount, simple badger rings wil do just as well.
It all depends on what quality you want and what extra options.

All my rifles will have spuhrs on them for quite some time....untill something even better hits the markt. But sofar i have seen none that fullfill my need.

Grtz
 
Regarding "Advokaten" since this site did have it´s great make over it became my handle, I used to have a completely different one.

This place is amazing, in so many ways, in other threads people are trashed good and proper for not having read the manual or even taking the time to think for them self or do a little research, and here others get there feelings hurt. No even though english is not my first language I did intend to motivate both the thread starter and the "not trying to be an ass" -man to actually engage the minds rather than there little fingers on the keyboard.

Sure I have some of Håkans mounts, I even saw some of the pre-production stuff and some that for reasons only of production cost never will make it on to the market, regardless, there are no fool proof mounts, just really good ones of more brands than I can recite and remember, and they can all be goofed with.

I have had my Spuhr rings, 34 mm by the way on all sorts of rifles and calibers besides the largest of the magnums and the lightest of light weight rifles, never a mark on a tube and never a slide/shift of the tube in the rings. I also have EWA, NF, Bagder and a few others including AI mounts, they all work the same with some fore and after though in the mounting job.

The bit about poor taste in ones mouth and swedish meatballs was really rather clever and fun, having had my fair share of cantina style meatballs, gravy and mashed potatoes it was a very nice allegory for his experience. So in conclusion and short, mount your scope with a bit of proper tourque on the bolts and all will be fine or use rosin. /Chris
 
Pleistarchus said:
Early Cuyler I'm surprised at how well your taking that scratch(at least $300 depreciation on resale). I mounted a brand new PMII 5-25 myself but had no marks or scratches......very lucky. As for Advokaten's post I don't think anything is being lost in translation. He's clearly disappointed......either at my "Swedish Meatball" remark which was wrong and I apologize to all my Swedish friends, or, he works for Hakan and........well. Whatever the case, I believe, I and you, have the right to be angry when a high end, or highest end product not only does not perform the initial task in which it was built for but risks damaging an investment like a Schmidt and Bender. If I bought an NcStar mount for my Schmidt and damaged it wouldn't you say "it serves me right". Well what do you say now.
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Just different personalities, I guess. Originally my blood did boil a bit (especially at the comp, until I realized I had an excuse for my shitty shooting, haha), but once I got it all sorted out and verified that my scope functions perfectly, I haven't worried about the scratches. Sure they do affect the resale price, but I honestly never intend to sell this scope as I love it that much.

As for the translation bit, I always give people the benefit of the doubt until I'm certain. I know sometimes I don't always make the best impression and English is my FIRST language.

NachtKracht, I only use the amount of torque recommended by the supplier. They know their product better than me and I appreciate that a lot. There is just as much a chance that my Borka Torque wrench is off high as it is low. If we go too low, then we have slippage. Too high and you can crush the tube (extreme case) and/or bind the internals which is never good.
 
Spuhr mount/lapping

Put a Spuhr mount with a Swarovski Z6i BRT on my 12" REPR.
I did some research and bought the WHEELER Professional Scope Mounting Kit. The kit includes 220 Grit lapping compound and bars. Also read that it was a good idea to coat the rings and scope with rosin, to use a small amount of Loctite
Did not use the lapping kit but got some SUREGRIP non-slip rosin. Coated the ring/scope and torqued as per Spuhr recommendation. Loctited screws.
Haven't had a problem with scope movement.


Semper Fi
 
3 scopes (S&B and March) mounted in Spuhrs to torque specs, no rosin, no movement, no marks and no problems.
 
Early Cuyler said:
Also, PM me your address and I'll send you a bit of the rosin. I see on Brownell's it's back-ordered and the 1lb tub I bought is waaaaaaaay more than I'll ever need (it takes VERY little).
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Early, Thanks for the offer, that's very generous of you but mount is up for sale. I'm putting ARC M10 Rings which is what I should of done from the beginning.
 
One of the reasons I liked the mount is the built in cant indicator. It was recently pointed out to me that I have a bit of a problem with that, so I've been researching my options for mounting a level. I really like the Vortex Razor, and it comes with a level. Not sure I can justify spending the extra money if I already have one.



Advokaten said:
This place is amazing, in so many ways, in other threads people are trashed good and proper for not having read the manual or even taking the time to think for them self or do a little research, and here others get there feelings hurt. No even though english is not my first language I did intend to motivate both the thread starter and the "not trying to be an ass" -man to actually engage the minds rather than there little fingers on the keyboard.
Click to expand...
My feelings weren't hurt if that was directed at me. I simply dismissed your comments as you being a typical european prick and tried to limit my comments to the topic at hand. But now I'm a little more motivated to tell you to fuck off asshole. Hopefully that's not lost in translation for you.
 
bluto77 said:
One of the reasons I liked the mount is the built in cant indicator. It was recently pointed out to me that I have a bit of a problem with that, so I've been researching my options for mounting a level. I really like the Vortex Razor, and it comes with a level. Not sure I can justify spending the extra money if I already have one.




My feelings weren't hurt if that was directed at me. I simply dismissed your comments as you being a typical european prick and tried to limit my comments to the topic at hand. But now I'm a little more motivated to tell you to fuck off asshole. Hopefully that's not lost in translation for you.
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If his feelings weren't hurt by me pointing out a "flaw" in a Swedish product.......I'm thinking you nailed it now.
 
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I just bought the spuhr cantilevel, I would like a clean answer on if I should lap it and put rosin on it?
 
My take is if the manufacture says to use the rosin then do it. I know some gunsmiths use it when removing barrels from actions to help the wrench from slipping. Can't hurt.
Lapping may not help but can't hurt. My AI mounts and my friends spuhr mounts were true enough that lapping was not a benefit. The nightforce mounts however it was a necesity.
 
[email protected] said:
I just bought the spuhr cantilevel, I would like a clean answer on if I should lap it and put rosin on it?
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Use the rosin and loctite. No need to lap. If you need rosin, let me know and I'll send you a bit.


maccrazy2 said:
My take is if the manufacture says to use the rosin then do it.
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The manual (http://www.spuhr.com/Manual ISMS.pdf) states that they "strongly recommend" using rosin. I viewed this as still a recommendation and not a requirement for reliable operation. It also says to use loctite for "Customers working in extreme conditions". I'm a range guy and not humping this across any desert or arctic tundra so I left that off as well. Neither omission was a good idea for this mount.

To those that have bought these mounts, didn't use rosin/loctite, and everything's gravy- great. I'm just saying that based on my experience with the mount on a braked 308win, yall might want to consider putting loctite/rosin on just to be safe.
 
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maccrazy2 said:
Lapping may not help but can't hurt. My AI mounts and my friends spuhr mounts were true enough that lapping was not a benefit. The nightforce mounts however it was a necesity.
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I do think that lapping a quality mount actually can make it worse. I've always thought of lapping as a way to avoid scope damage from cheap, misaligned rings. If the rings are already in alignment, like many of today's one piece mounts, all you can possibly do by lapping is open up the ring diameter. That can't be good for preventing slippage.
 
Don't use Spuhr mounts so no dog in the fight but I find it hard to believe that from a precision machined and not inexpensive mount like the Spuhr you have to use rosin or loctite for them to work. I have used lots of different rings over the years from cheaper Burris to Badgers and never have I had to put anything between the scope and rings to prevent slipping when properly installed and torqued. Have used them on everything up to 300WMs with no brake throwing 210s at 3000fps.. Something doesn't sound right. Maybe Spuhr can chime in.
 
I guess it all depends on who it is that spells out that your ignorant when not reading the manual properly,

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-reloading/190264-fed-up-stuck-cases.html,

I go fuck off? Dude I have been a member here for a long time and seen others come and go, and I will stay a member as long as the forum will permit me, besides I find your comment rather amusing, btw no very little if anything was lost in translation.

/CHris

bluto77 said:
One of the reasons I liked the mount is the built in cant indicator. It was recently pointed out to me that I have a bit of a problem with that, so I've been researching my options for mounting a level. I really like the Vortex Razor, and it comes with a level. Not sure I can justify spending the extra money if I already have one.

My feelings weren't hurt if that was directed at me. I simply dismissed your comments as you being a typical european prick and tried to limit my comments to the topic at hand. But now I'm a little more motivated to tell you to fuck off asshole. Hopefully that's not lost in translation for you.
Click to expand...
 
Rob01 said:
I have used lots of different rings over the years from cheaper Burris to Badgers and never have I had to put anything between the scope and rings to prevent slipping when properly installed and torqued.
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That's what I figured too, but it wasn't the case for myself. My Badgers (50BMG - Braked), ADM (223Rem - Braked), IOR V-tac (308win - Unbraked), Seekins (308win - Unbraked), Leupold-cheap (223Rem - Braked) and Leupold Mark 4 (22LR - Unbraked) all did not use loctite or rosin and have had zero issues. All were installed and torqued with my Borka torque wrench, same as the Spuhr.
 
Advokaten said:
I guess it all depends on who it is that spells out that your ignorant when not reading the manual properly,

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-reloading/190264-fed-up-stuck-cases.html,

I go fuck off? Dude I have been a member here for a long time and seen others come and go, and I will stay a member as long as the forum will permit me, besides I find your comment rather amusing, btw no very little if anything was lost in translation.

/CHris
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OK Listen. This thread was meant to get feedback from others experience. You came in this thread disrespecting me and others by claiming we should "Educate ourselves rather than asking". And continue to offend me and others. If you get offended because your friend makes this product and/or it is made in Sweden you need to vent your frustration on another thread or Forum, not this one. The truth is the truth, Spuhr is a very "pretty" mount with a built in level that needs glue, rosin and loctite to hold a scope. If you have anything more constructive to add, OK, if not, go somewhere else because I've had just about enough of you.
 
Been using a spuhr mount on my AW300wm for the last 6 months, outstanding mount followed the very simple directions and haven't had a problem, and I run my rifles hard.
 
I am not frustrated, and I am not taken in by or upset by slander, neither have I used foul language or name calling, I have however stated,
that you ought to educate your self rather than just mouthing off. That did not fit well in some peoples mind set and ways.

I did give some real world input on the mounts and actually tried to explain that they are fine, just like a pile of other brands, US and elsewhere made. By the way, ever read this thread, http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-rifle-scopes/116137-scratched-nightforce.html

There is no fool proof kit, because fools will always invent new ways of breaking there own and others gear, however with a margin of thinking beforehand and a bit of common sense most of the time things like scope slipping and damages to tubes ought to be a thing of the past. This thread has proven otherwise and in part put down a perfectly good piece of kit for no good reason at all.
/Chris
 
Interesting (and colorful) thread. I will be on the lookout for movement. I have only recently begun using a Spuhr on my 6.5 Creed with a brake and suppressor, so I probably won't have an issue with movement due to very light recoil. I didn't use the rosin or loctite simply because I don't have any. I did use a torque wrench and fastened down everything per the instructions. I really like the mount so I'm hoping there will be no issues. I'll be going to the range tomorrow and will be on the lookout for this. Thanks for the heads-up.
 
He did try to educate himself - he asked by posting a question here, and everybody but one Swede was helpful in their responses.

John
 
MJY65 said:
I do think that lapping a quality mount actually can make it worse. I've always thought of lapping as a way to avoid scope damage from cheap, misaligned rings. If the rings are already in alignment, like many of today's one piece mounts, all you can possibly do by lapping is open up the ring diameter. That can't be good for preventing slippage.
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I would agree if you go nuts with the lapping bar. I just lay it in, give it a few strokes and inspect the contact pattern. My AI and my friends spuhr were both right on and did not need any lapping. The armalite 1 piece mount (I think I put night force in a previous post by accident) needed a bit of work to true the bore. All things in moderation.
 
Unless you move optics on a regular basis why not use a thread locker on the ring bolts? not red so they are in danger of striping out when removed but, a medium is a bit of extra insurance. Granted, if everything is true and properly/evenly torqued they should stay put. However I don't trust the accuracy of a $40 plastic torque wrench so a bit of locker may help for you guys using them.
 
Jhnmdahl said:
He did try to educate himself - he asked by posting a question here, and everybody but one Swede was helpful in their responses.

John
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He still doesn't get it. And now is playing the victim.
 
The guys I know and shoot with that have Spurh mounts basically scoff/laugh at the idea that they require lapping. I've never read a manual to anything prior to buying it, and I would be surprised to see that it would be "highly recommended" on such a high end product. Maybe my understanding of what exactly lapping does isn't quite right, but I thought it was mainly used to true up the rings so that they are in perfect alignment as well as remove any material that would cause the tube not to fit correctly (100% contact all the way around). Obviously, the more surface contact the tube has with the rings the better it will hold them, but, based on my research, that is not what it is used for. All of these guys torque the rings to 15 lbs and no more, and only half of them use loctite. None of them have experienced any of the problems the OP or Early Cuyler have listed, and they have them on .338 lapuas and .300 win mags. None have ever mentioned rosin. They also have very expensive rifles and scopes (one guy with DTA .338 and S&B scope), so I've wondered what part of their decision to use Spurh mounts is based on the rest of the rifle being "high end" and what part is based on actual function. One of the other reasons I am considering this mount is that it is supposed to be so sturdy and hold your scope in place no matter what. So while the built in level would be nice on one of my range rifles, I was also thinking about it for my AAC 300 BLK SBR with suppressor that will be used for hog hunting in thick south texas brush. The rifle will be banged around, used to push limbs and such out of the way and just treated more harshly than a range rifle in every way. I have a 1.5-8 USO for the optics, so I know the optics are virtually indestructable. The mount is one of the last parts I need to choose.

Based on this thread, it sounds like it would be best for me to use the rosin and loctite at the very least for the 300 BLK. For range rifle, probably at least use the loctite.

I've read a lot about the Spurh mount, talked to several people that own them, and it sounds like PL and EC may have gotten a couple of the ones that slipped through QC and shouldn't have. I'm assuming the manufacturer would CYA by referring them to the instruction manual if they were to call about it. Good thread.
 
To conclude, from all the feedback I received, I was wrong in not reading the instruction manual of the Spuhr mount before I purchased it(which people do after they buy something anyways). Though if I had read it, I probably would have not purchased it for the soul reason that a product like this should not need Rosin or glue to do the job......engineering to avoid this is readily available and for $400 should be part of it. I could have purchased an ARC M10 QD mount, a pair of ARC M10 rings, a good quality level and still would have had money left to go to the movies. This is my opinion and hope I did not hurt anyone's feelings by it.
 
bluto77 said:
The guys I know and shoot with that have Spurh mounts basically scoff/laugh at the idea that they require lapping. I've never read a manual to anything prior to buying it, and I would be surprised to see that it would be "highly recommended" on such a high end product. Maybe my understanding of what exactly lapping does isn't quite right, but I thought it was mainly used to true up the rings so that they are in perfect alignment as well as remove any material that would cause the tube not to fit correctly (100% contact all the way around). Obviously, the more surface contact the tube has with the rings the better it will hold them, but, based on my research, that is not what it is used for. All of these guys torque the rings to 15 lbs and no more, and only half of them use loctite. None of them have experienced any of the problems the OP or Early Cuyler have listed, and they have them on .338 lapuas and .300 win mags. None have ever mentioned rosin. They also have very expensive rifles and scopes (one guy with DTA .338 and S&B scope), so I've wondered what part of their decision to use Spurh mounts is based on the rest of the rifle being "high end" and what part is based on actual function. One of the other reasons I am considering this mount is that it is supposed to be so sturdy and hold your scope in place no matter what. So while the built in level would be nice on one of my range rifles, I was also thinking about it for my AAC 300 BLK SBR with suppressor that will be used for hog hunting in thick south texas brush. The rifle will be banged around, used to push limbs and such out of the way and just treated more harshly than a range rifle in every way. I have a 1.5-8 USO for the optics, so I know the optics are virtually indestructable. The mount is one of the last parts I need to choose.

Based on this thread, it sounds like it would be best for me to use the rosin and loctite at the very least for the 300 BLK. For range rifle, probably at least use the loctite.

I've read a lot about the Spurh mount, talked to several people that own them, and it sounds like PL and EC may have gotten a couple of the ones that slipped through QC and shouldn't have. I'm assuming the manufacturer would CYA by referring them to the instruction manual if they were to call about it. Good thread.
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My reasoning for buying a Spuhr was that it was supposed to be the best mousetrap. High quality, great support here on The Hide, canted (on top of DTA SRS and I didn't want to use a canted base and rings), and a built-in level. When I first set up everything, I used my Borka to torque to 21 in-lbs if memory serves. Reasoning being that the instructions had a range of 15-25 and 21 was as close to dead nuts centered between the values. I did not use any rosin or loctite as I didn't have any nor did I know they would be needed (based on previous experience mounting scopes in various other rings/mounts). After taking it to the range, I noticed the scope had shifted in the mount and lightly scratched the finish of my S&B. I then unscrewed all the ring screws (all were tight) and re-torqued them to 24 in-lbs (closest value available on the Borka without overshooting the suggested torque). I then took the rifle to a comp. At the end of the comp I realized the scope had shifted again and scratched another area of the finish. I was less than pleased.

So I PM Hakan here (he might still have our PMs, I think I lost em in the site transition) probably with a bit more 'tude than I should have asking him what was going on. He asked me (politely) if I used rosin and/or loctite and directed me to the manual where the rosin is "strongly recommended" and the loctite is recommended for "extreme conditions". He then suggested Brownell's rosin. I ordered the rosin and loctite, put them on the tube and screws, respectively, and no issues since with slippage.

My point is that I guess me and Pleistarchus did get the bad ones as others such as COfox, the guys Bluto77 knows, Meny300wm, thefitter, etc. have done the same thing as us (mounting-wise) with no adverse consequences. However to keep it from happening to someone else and their scope, I strongly suggest they at least use rosin as a precaution. I'll even send you some for free if you don't have any (while my personal supply lasts of course, haha).

References:
ISMS Manual- http://www.spuhr.com/Manual ISMS.pdf
Borka Torque Wrench - Borka Tools military grade (MG) torque driver, ATD-15x72-12FS-MG
Rosin - ROSIN | Brownells
Loctite- MEDIUM STRENGTH BLUE #242 THREADLOCKER | Brownells
Spuhr Mount - SP-4802 - 34mm Picatinny Mount 13MIL/44.4MOA - 1.46"
 
Rob01 said:
And that means what? Are you coming after me now for asking a question?
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Not quite, rather the opposite, when you state that you find others at fault for blaming the product rather then accepting that the fault lies in there handling of the product, that is all fine and the other members bows out, nice and polite.

When I state the very same thing, that it would be a good thing to educate one self about a product, sort of reading the specs, the manual etc, I am told am I an ass and should go fuck off or some to that extent, or rather, some people just can not handle being told that it is there responsibility and handling of a product rather than the product it self.

I think it is interesting to see and compare that had, you, MR VJJPunisher, Ratbert, Tuscondave or other more prominent member written the same reply I did above then there would have been no one calling either of you out or used foul language, they would have accepted it,
however I am just a European prick and so on, so perhaps it should be that way but I do not like it.

Bluto77 - use your normal good sense, torque the mount properly and it will never be the part at fault in your rifle set up. My first set of rings from Håkan has been mounted good once and has never ever given me any problems.

/Chris
 
I'm going to check out the ARC M10 mount and rings, but I haven't heard enough negatives about the Spurh to disregard it (except the price!)

Advokaten said:
I think it is interesting to see and compare that had, you, MR VJJPunisher, Ratbert, Tuscondave or other more prominent member written the same reply I did above then there would have been no one calling either of you out or used foul language, they would have accepted it,
however I am just a European prick and so on, so perhaps it should be that way but I do not like it.
Click to expand...
I make point not to all out anyone with the word "Moderator" under their name, regardless of how I feel about what they said. Long standing snipershide members, such as yourself, also get a pass. My initial reply to you was polite, and instead of engaging in a conversation of this manner, I stuck to the topic at hand. You kept on making snide remarks, so I responded. Perhaps your comments were taken out of text or I misconstrued them to be snide, and if that was the case I would apologize. But you've responded a number of times now letting us know that new members typically get called out for asking questions before researching a topic, which leads me to believe that is exactly what you were doing, and doing so in a snide manner. Your point has been made. I don't see the need to continue this part of the discussion. So I appreciate the other input regarding the Spurh mount that you have provided.



ETA: I should also note, I always do a thorough search before posting and/or starting a new thread. I learned that from lurking for 6 months before really starting to post.
 
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What?

I am not to use my own name? Chris is presume, you better read this good and proper, I have and will continue to use my name and the short version of it, Chris, perhaps you should get used to that. In regards to the rest, I have no comment and find no real reason to the level has stooped to low.

To each his own and that includes choice of optics mounts. /CHris
 
Advokaten said:
What?

I am not to use my own name? Chris is presume, you better read this good and proper, I have and will continue to use my name and the short version of it, Chris, perhaps you should get used to that. In regards to the rest, I have no comment and find no real reason to the level has stooped to low.

To each his own and that includes choice of optics mounts. /CHris
Click to expand...

Mitt namn är Chris och jag önskar att du slutar använda den. Din engelska är bra men jag tror att vissa är inte som du vill säga, och det är problemet. Bara sluta använda mitt namn vänligen och inte bry mig längre.
 
Advokaten said:
Not quite, rather the opposite, when you state that you find others at fault for blaming the product rather then accepting that the fault lies in there handling of the product, that is all fine and the other members bows out, nice and polite.

When I state the very same thing, that it would be a good thing to educate one self about a product, sort of reading the specs, the manual etc, I am told am I an ass and should go fuck off or some to that extent, or rather, some people just can not handle being told that it is there responsibility and handling of a product rather than the product it self.

I think it is interesting to see and compare that had, you, MR VJJPunisher, Ratbert, Tuscondave or other more prominent member written the same reply I did above then there would have been no one calling either of you out or used foul language, they would have accepted it,
however I am just a European prick and so on, so perhaps it should be that way but I do not like it.

/Chris
Click to expand...

I understand what you are saying but it's not quite the same. With One Shot the directions about the minute wait for the propellent to evaporate is basically the same as other similar products and needed for the products to work.

I was just asking a question and wondering why Spuhr requires the use of loctite or rosin not to slip? I have never seen this recommended with other rings. The precision with these mounts are made should be enough with the proper torque to hold a scope in place. Just my own curiosity as I don't plan on buying a Spuhr mount but if it is required for the price you are paying they should include a small amount of rosin or loctite if they feel it's needed.
 
I have a few Spurhs, mounted on 300blackout up to a 338LM for a time, no slippage, no problems. I can't see needing to lap them - and some companies say lapping voids the warranty, not sure if that is the case with Spurh. I have never used rosin, do use locktite, but I do on all my ring screws.

Something doesn't sound right.
 
the text in question from the manual:

The rings are machined with circular groves that could be used for gluing the scope. Gluing is a good solution when the gun and the scope is used extensively in 4WD vehicles and in other applications with severe vibrations. For normal use (including mostly military, law enforcement and civilian use) we strongly recommend the use of a small amount of rosin between the scope and the rings (available from Midway) Rosin is a very good gripping agent that prevents slipping. Its also very easy to remove with some alcohol when it's not desired any more.
Click to expand...

(typos and grammatical anomalies aren't mine :) )


when i first read this, I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that the mount would be as good as regular rings, and that the addition of glue/rosin would be above and beyond normal.
 
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Rob01- as in regards to the rings, they do not need neither loctite or rosin( my opinion and experience), a quick degrease/wipe with something that will remove grease/oil and proper torque is all. However in Europe the use of rosin and or loctite is fairly standard, this might have motivated Mr Spuhr to add this to the manual.


As in regards to how I replied above, I failed to see your reply in the thread and was not mocking you. /Chris
 
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