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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

And the vast majority of people who don't know anything about firearms were none the wiser.
 
Here is a picture from the same movie with an Eotech mounted backwards:
600px-SWATFFBushmasterACR2.JPG
 
I dunno, man. I've had to shoot from some pretty awkward positions in Iraq...granted with an M4 and RDS, not a bolt gun with a scope. ;) Of course, he doesn't look like he's under such a high volume of fire that the only safe position for his body is splayed out upside down.
 
battlefield 4 game has the rifle too, but im still waiting to get it unlocked to shoot it. sooooo i watch the video on dta website at least once a night lolol ok may be 2 times.
 
battlefield 4 game has the rifle too, but im still waiting to get it unlocked to shoot it. sooooo i watch the video on dta website at least once a night lolol ok may be 2 times.

Just got it in single player today, Mission 5 Kunlun Mountains, and its a Gen 1 338 with an 8x & 14x magnification scope. I went back and played all previous missions just so I could use the 338-Recon...sweet!
 
Got a call while in the stand on Saturday my rifle is inbound. I ordered it three weeks ago from EuroOptic. They originally told me 4 months. What a quick 4 months. It just flew by. I need to get some 300 WM ammo for this thing. What have you guys seen shoot the best from the over the counter stuff? Who makes the best brass in 300 WM so I can buy stuff that at least has quality brass?
 
My SRS to A1 conversion

Got confirmation that my receiver would accept the A1 skins. This is what it looks like if your rifle will accept the cheek piece.


SO then got my hands on some A1 skins and got em swapped over. Real simple process, just some screw swappin. The mag release is the same so I reused it.



The buttstock release does not fit in the A1 skins (without some custom modding) but the buttstock Itself does fit just fine, however theres nothing holding it in place.
My old skins did not have the monopod, it looks like all the A1 skins are cut for the monopod and just have a plug if you didnt order one.


Old skins on top, new on bottom


Old skins on bottom in this pic (obviously)


Ryan @DTA got me hooked up with a cheekpiece, new style buttstock, and the new style bolt stop (which you must have to use the new style buttstock)
I should have all the parts within a week or 2 and will update my A1 Hybrid when I get them all in.
 
Does anyone know. Will the badger mini FTE work on the 308 barrel? Does the barrel stick out far enough from the quad rail to put it on without hitting it?
 
Anyone else get a Seekonk torque wrench that torques when turned left or right? In other words it does not lock when trying to loosen screws. Didn't think it would be a big deal at all, but after doing quite a few swaps sometimes it is a pain in the ass.
 
Idea! Official DTA SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

They never lock... Are you saying that once you torque it, when you try to loosen your cross bolts, it just pops and won't loosen?

Russ
 
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Idea! Official DTA SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Does anyone know. Will the badger mini FTE work on the 308 barrel? Does the barrel stick out far enough from the quad rail to put it on without hitting it?

I'm pretty sure that the mini FTE only comes in the smaller thread pitches, not the 3/4x24 that DTA uses on everything. If you have an aftermarket barrel or have your threads reduced, then yes there is enough if the barrel sticking out to use it. If not, no, unless they started making the mini in 3/4.

Russ



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Would the threads be already timed for that brake if i bought a dta brake or would it have to be timed to make sure if I would buy one?
 
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DTA folks,

A vendor on here placed an order for me a year ago and most of it was filled except for a Gen 1 .260 conversion. Is there any way to check on why it has taken so long to put a Gen 1 barrel extension on a barrel and ship it? I know you're shipping other conversions and full rifles.

Patiently yours,

Vinson
 
They never lock... Are you saying that once you torque it, when you try to loosen your cross bolts, it just pops and won't loosen?

Russ

My seekonk wrench pops and won't loosen 50% of the time. I have to press really hard or get out the hex wrench.
 
I personally use anti-seize on my cross bolts.

What I do with my personal guns has nothing to do with what DTA recommends. We all have our personal preferences, but I have never had what you're talking about happen to me.

Russ
 
They never lock... Are you saying that once you torque it, when you try to loosen your cross bolts, it just pops and won't loosen?

Russ

Yes. It will loosen eventually, usually with the help of me adding pressure by hand to the socket. Seekonk has 5 different types of t-handle torque wrenches. It seems DTA sends out the "direct" wrench but a "lockup" may be more desirable. I will give the bolts a little lube though that should help.

Preset
 
So, I am the only one that is going to be shooting a DTA in 300 WM on this forum? Awesome! I will share my findings as I wander through this journey. BTW, DTA could not advise me on any "brand" specific ammo for this rifle and it seems nobody else here shoots a DTA in 300 WM.
 
So, I am the only one that is going to be shooting a DTA in 300 WM on this forum? Awesome! I will share my findings as I wander through this journey. BTW, DTA could not advise me on any "brand" specific ammo for this rifle and it seems nobody else here shoots a DTA in 300 WM.

I have a .300 conversion but I haven't shot it yet. I can't find brass anywhere for it though!!!! and my 338p1 is still pending and I don't like shooting without a can anymore!
 
FGMM is the "standard" by which all other ammo is judged by. ... and no one else is shooting 300WM because there are better options that don't include belted magnums. ;)

Like what? Just curious as I'm planning on buying a .300 conversion. Sure .338 would be grey but it won't work with my can and ammo is a couple bucks more a round and does nothing the .300 won't do out to 1500


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Like what? Just curious as I'm planning on buying a .300 conversion. Sure .338 would be grey but it won't work with my can and ammo is a couple bucks more a round and does nothing the .300 won't do out to 1500


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7mm Magnums do pretty much everything better than a 308 magnum. My pick of the 7 magnum is the 7 SAUM, then 7 WSM and finally 7 Rem Mag. My buddy has made hits at 2130 yards on a full size IPSC with his 7 SAUM shooting 180 Berger hybrids just as regular as I am shooting a 338 LM with 300 Sceners. Granted the 338 has much more payload, but the 7 mags are legit.

For a 300 Win mag, I would certainly be looking at reloading and bullet choice would be 208 A-max, 210 Berger, or 220 SMK.

For factory ammo, Orkan is spot on. Go Federal GMM with the 190's or Black Hills with the same 190. I have no personal experience shooting 300 Win Mag with either of these, but am going from reputation alone.

Hope this helps,
Ty
 
7mm Magnums do pretty much everything better than a 308 magnum. My pick of the 7 magnum is the 7 SAUM, then 7 WSM and finally 7 Rem Mag. My buddy has made hits at 2130 yards on a full size IPSC with his 7 SAUM shooting 180 Berger hybrids just as regular as I am shooting a 338 LM with 300 Sceners. Granted the 338 has much more payload, but the 7 mags are legit.

For a 300 Win mag, I would certainly be looking at reloading and bullet choice would be 208 A-max, 210 Berger, or 220 SMK.

For factory ammo, Orkan is spot on. Go Federal GMM with the 190's or Black Hills with the same 190. I have no personal experience shooting 300 Win Mag with either of these, but am going from reputation alone.

Hope this helps,
Ty

Don't those 7mm Saum and short magnums have incredibly low barrel life compared to the .300? Also they don't have quite as much energy correct? I'm looking for something that has substantially more knockdown power than the .308, good ballistics, and available components to reload. I reload already so I'm not really limited by ammo availability, but it's nice to be able to buy what I need. In addition I can use the same bullets I use to shoot .308 subs (208 bthp and 240 smk) in a .300 as well although that's just a convenience. My main concern is barrel life. I'd imagine the 7mm is around 1000 round which is pretty damn short considering the barrels are pricey and I would def shoot it out within a few years.

How does the 7mm Saum and wsm compare to the .300 in energy, and barrel life? Are Saum components available? I hate making brass and would prefer to just buy lapua brand or similar brass from the start.


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If you buy a 300win try the 208gr-230gr bullet range. For 75% of poeple that was a 338L that will serve there purpose just as good, and be alot cheaper to shoot.
 
Don't those 7mm Saum and short magnums have incredibly low barrel life compared to the .300? Also they don't have quite as much energy correct? I'm looking for something that has substantially more knockdown power than the .308, good ballistics, and available components to reload. I reload already so I'm not really limited by ammo availability, but it's nice to be able to buy what I need. In addition I can use the same bullets I use to shoot .308 subs (208 bthp and 240 smk) in a .300 as well although that's just a convenience. My main concern is barrel life. I'd imagine the 7mm is around 1000 round which is pretty damn short considering the barrels are pricey and I would def shoot it out within a few years.

How does the 7mm Saum and wsm compare to the .300 in energy, and barrel life? Are Saum components available? I hate making brass and would prefer to just buy lapua brand or similar brass from the start.


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You have several extremely valid points and solid reasons for wanting a 300.

Here are the answers to your questions that you have asked as I see them.

Barrel life:

We were using Rock blanks for about a year. We found them very accurate, but soft and so they tended to shoot out pretty quick so we switched over to Benchmark. We had one of our barrels that was a Rock shoot out at 2200 rounds. His load was 180 Bergers, 65ish of H1000 at about 3000 FPS. We have several others that are still running but are only around 1700-1900 rounds. That is the best I can do for you on barrel life with a 7 SAUM. I have no idea what a 300 Win Mag gets on barrel life.

For comparison's sake we had a guy shoot a 6.5 CM out at 2300 in a Rock, and another get 4000 out of a Lothar Walther. We have yet to shoot out a Benchmark but have a couple approaching 3500.

Energy wise, I ran a couple comparisons using a 7 SAUM with a 180 Berger at 3000, and a 300 WM using a 208 A-max at 2900 using Vegas's current enviromental conditions.

Distance---7's energy--7's drop in mils--7's wind @ 10mph--300's energy--300's drop--300's Windage
100---------3324--------0------------------0---------------------3565----------0-------------0
1000--------1472-------6.3-----------------1.2------------------1464-----------7------------1.4
1500--------863---------12.2--------------2----------------------806-----------13.8---------2.4
7 SAUM drops subsonic @ 1966 yards, 300 WM drops subsonic @ 1768 yards. 7 SAUM burns about 65 grains of powder, 300 WM burns about 80 grains.

I got the velocity for the 300 WM with 208's off of a couple quick internet searches. Perhaps they can be pushed faster than the 2900 I used in my example, or maybe slower. I just don't have personal experience reloading for the 300 WM.

The chart shows them to be more or less equal. For brass, we are just resizing Remington 300 SAUM brass. Again, you have some well thought out and valid points for your preference. My preference is to stay away from belted magnums and 30 cal, but that is just me.

Take care,
Ty
 
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300 WM w/ 208 A-Max and 79.7grs of H1000: Average-2963fps ES-3.0 and SD-2.9. Subsonic at 1875yds @ 180ft above sea level.
 
So, I am the only one that is going to be shooting a DTA in 300 WM on this forum? Awesome! I will share my findings as I wander through this journey. BTW, DTA could not advise me on any "brand" specific ammo for this rifle and it seems nobody else here shoots a DTA in 300 WM.

I have not shot my 300 WM conversion much, because I also have 6.5 CM, 7WSM, 308, and now 6.5 SAUM. All my DTA barrels shoot. 6.5's and 7 are SAC barrels.

300 WM barrel I have was easy. Shoots anything well. First group out of it with Southwest ammo 190SMK at 200 yds was sub ½ moa. Also have 208 Amax load from SW ammo - same experience.

Haven't messed with it much because I find myself shooting the 6.5's and 7 so much.
 
I have not shot my 300 WM conversion much, because I also have 6.5 CM, 7WSM, 308, and now 6.5 SAUM. All my DTA barrels shoot. 6.5's and 7 are SAC barrels.

300 WM barrel I have was easy. Shoots anything well. First group out of it with Southwest ammo 190SMK at 200 yds was sub ½ moa. Also have 208 Amax load from SW ammo - same experience.

Haven't messed with it much because I find myself shooting the 6.5's and 7 so much.

If you're looking to ditch it let me know


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If they ever become available again the Berger 230's or the Hornady 225's are what I'm planning on shooting out of mine. For now the 208 Amax is about as good as it gets.
 
Mag got a dent and won't feed anymore. Gonna try to unfk it today, but does anyone have a spare .308 mag or does DTA have them in stock on the shelf?
 
Mag got a dent and won't feed anymore. Gonna try to unfk it today, but does anyone have a spare .308 mag or does DTA have them in stock on the shelf?

There was one for sale just in the past week in the accessories for sale page.



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Thanks for all of the great information. I have some 210 Berger VLDs on hand and will shop for the 208 Amax as well. I hope to get some Norma Brass in 300 WM soon.