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Suppressors Socom 556-rc

wnroscoe

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 12, 2006
3,907
56
NW Louisiana
A few months back I was asking for pictures of the SOCOM 5556-RC for hand guard clearance reasons. Turns out that it fits fine and times perfectly with the standard Surefire .050" + .018" shim washers and the SOCOM Brake. The suppressor to mount fit is what you'd expect from surefire. With the suppressor mounted, the 10.5" isn't too long and feels just right as pictured. I ran it on my Mk114 and it ran fine even though it's slightly over gassed. A little louder than I thought it would be but certainly not a deal killer, probably doesn't help that it's over gassed either. Haven't ran the Mk110 yet but will soon. The 110 has the adjustable gas block so I'm looking for a slightly quitter report but, I might not even be able to tell the difference.

So far, I'm pleased with the set up.

jb1oa9.jpg
 
Lets see pics of the whole setup. Surefire cans aren't exactly known for being quiet, you could use them to hammer nails or go to war with though.
 
Can you please post up some more info on that upper ? My 10.5" F1 came back and I have that same can...
 
Can you please post up some more info on that upper ? My 10.5" F1 came back and I have that same can...

It's the PWS Mk110 upper chambered in 223 Wylde but, first gen of the mod 1. The only difference is the barrel is now 1/2 to 3/4 longer. That's a complete PWS rifle to include the Mk1 lower. The SOCOM 556 will fit the 10.75 " Mod 1 uppers just fine if you go that route, it'll probably will fit the Mk107 as well. The only thing is Surefire recommends the SOCOM 556 Brake for the 10.5" and under. Kinda acts as a sacrificial blast baffle.

MK1, Mod 1 Upper, 10.75in Barrel, .223 Wylde, Triad 556 - MK1 Series Uppers
 
I just got my SOCOM 556 RC the day before Christmas. I went on an orgy of installing adapters on my various 5.56 and .22 rifles and handguns. Word of warning to SIG rifle owners (and maybe others).

I installed the adapters on my SIG 556P and my SIG 556 rifle, and the silencer worked fine (and yes, it's not the quietest suppressor on the market), but when I went to field-strip the rifle to clean it I realized my error: The SIGs use an operating-rod and forward buffer system similar to H&K, with no rear buffer tube, which is great because you can use a folding stock with the rifle and make it much shorter for transport.

Problem is, the diameter of the Surefire adapter is much larger than the diameter of the stock flash hider, and to remove the operating rod and/or tube, you have to draw them out of the front of the rifle, and neither will clear the rim of the Surefire adapter. This means to use the SOCOM 556 RC with a SIG, or other weapon that comes apart forward, you can't permanently or semi-permanently attach the suppressor adapter. You have to be able to unscrew it to service the rifle. I'm just glad I didn't drill, pin and weld one onto my SIG 556P. A giant crescent wrench and a good vise allowed me to break the Rockset pretty easily without damaging the adapters. Now I just need to figure out how to screw them on by hand, maintain timing, and keep them from loosening up on the SIGs.

There's something called a "cam-loc washer" that I use on my Hummer half-shaft bolts that's not supposed to allow the bolts to back out, so I'll have to see if there's one available in the right size to use on my rifles.

In short, check ALL your clearances before doing anything permanent. Derp...

P.S. This means also check clearance if you slide the rails/foregrip forward off the rail. I had to compromise with my Nemesis take-down rifle and leave the 4-rail tactical handguard on the 16" barrel because the AAC adapter for my Titan QD .308 wouldn't pass through the handguard. Because I have a 22" plain barrel for the covert configuration, I chose to "permanently" marry the handguard and the 16" barrel together.
 
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Please do not use any other washers or spacers than we provided. There is a huge chance that the adapter could be angled and cause a bad baffle strike. Time the adapter with 30 ft/lbs and you shouldn't need the Rockset. When you service your rifle you can pull it off and replace it when done with the same shims.
 
Please do not use any other washers or spacers than we provided. There is a huge chance that the adapter could be angled and cause a bad baffle strike. Time the adapter with 30 ft/lbs and you shouldn't need the Rockset. When you service your rifle you can pull it off and replace it when done with the same shims.

Solid advice.

As a side, after the brake was installed, as I always do/check I inserted a 22 caliber range rod in the bore through the brake to check alignment. It was perfect with even clearance between the range rod and brake. Zero chance for a baffle strike, caused by the brake anyway. It was the same on my Mk114, perfect fit, even clearance.

This is the can I had hoped to use when I got this upper, I'm 110% satisfied and would do it again.
 
Please do not use any other washers or spacers than we provided. There is a huge chance that the adapter could be angled and cause a bad baffle strike. Time the adapter with 30 ft/lbs and you shouldn't need the Rockset. When you service your rifle you can pull it off and replace it when done with the same shims.

Interesting. Thanks for the advice, which I'll certainly take. One would think that it's the threads that keeps the adapter square on the barrel, not the washers. I'd never considered that a non-square washer would tilt the adapter. That's really good to know.

Peripherally, how important is the indexing of the adapter versus torque anyway? I spent a lot of time on one rifle trying to get it perfectly aligned but couldn't find a shim pack that would do it at 30 ft/lbs. I tried every combination you suggested and couldn't make it work. In order to get it to index properly I had to put all the torque on it I possibly could by hand using a standard length Craftsman box/open end wrench. I have no idea what the torque actually is, but it must be a lot. Is it better to have it indexed perfectly or to torque it properly even if it's not perfectly indexed?

How about getting a custom shim of the right thickness once that is determined to eliminate the problem of dropping a thin shim by accident when removing the adapter?

And as long as you're on the line, what fluid would be the best for soaking the suppressor to remove fouling?

Also, a friend recommended spraying water or oil into the silencer to make it "wet," which he claims will make it much quieter. Is this an approved practice, and if so which fluid works best and how much of it should one use?
 
Awesome looking set up William. I know it isn't a precision rig but did you notice any POI shift with the can?

Side note- I am trying to send you a PM about the barrel threading for my suppressor but your mailbox is full.
 
Never make a rifle suppressor "wet" as there can be too much pressure for that. that is a practice reserved for pistol or rimfire suppressors.
 
Awesome looking set up William. I know it isn't a precision rig but did you notice any POI shift with the can?

Side note- I am trying to send you a PM about the barrel threading for my suppressor but your mailbox is full.

Haven't tested POI shift yet but admittedly, it was purchased for my 10.5". Not sure if minimal shift would really matter for a "house rifle" I need to shoot some paper with it on my Mk114 to test the shift if any.

Email is the best way to get me or just call.
 
Speaking of alignment, I had several SOCOM brakes installed by an LGS that sells them and they seem to all just be a wee bit off in terms of alignment. Two were on 5.56 rifles and one was on a 300blk and I really didn't notice anything until I got home and took a closer look. Assuming that he just put them on by hand and just horsed them on without exact alignment and probably too much torque.

One other data point - I had no issues with or without suppressors on the rifles (that I know of...) yet I want the alignment to be exact. So do you guys think I should have them all taken off and reinstalled again or just run them as is and not worry about the small alignment issue?
 
...I realized my error: The SIGs use an operating-rod and forward buffer system similar to H&K, with no rear buffer tube, which is great because you can use a folding stock with the rifle and make it much shorter for transport.

Problem is, the diameter of the Surefire adapter is much larger than the diameter of the stock flash hider, and to remove the operating rod and/or tube, you have to draw them out of the front of the rifle, and neither will clear the rim of the Surefire adapter. This means to use the SOCOM 556 RC with a SIG, or other weapon that comes apart forward, you can't permanently or semi-permanently attach the suppressor adapter. You have to be able to unscrew it to service the rifle. I'm just glad I didn't drill, pin and weld one onto my SIG 556P. A giant crescent wrench and a good vise allowed me to break the Rockset pretty easily without damaging the adapters. Now I just need to figure out how to screw them on by hand, maintain timing, and keep them from loosening up on the SIGs.

Thanks for the heads - up...
 
Hey tex vet.....Surefire will send you the appropriate shim kits for your adapters. Just takes a call to their top notch CS dept. I purchased a Surefire adapter second hand, although it was never shot with....shims were not included....I called Surefire. ..two weeks later shims were here for free. In my opinion, alignment is critical..even if you have clear passage. Don't take a shortcut......do it right and mount that thing concentric to the bore.
 
Agreed - Will have them removed and reinstalled...from a different shop of course. :)
 
Surefire cans rock! When my wife is out of town I sleep with my SF556-212BK on her pillow. ....lol
 
texas_vet00 if you can't find a shop to check the alignment just let us know. I can have you send the uppers in and I can QC the barrel threads and reinstall the adapters. It is at no charge for us to do that.
 
Garin -

Talk about customer service!!! - Give me a week to find another local here in Houston area...hell, I might just skip that and send the uppers to you now. Peace of mind knowing things are done right kinda thing and this is why I buy SureFire... :)
 
Yes they are! I bought an adapter second hand for my 556-212 legacy and it came with no shims. I called Surefire and told them, they sent new shims free of charge. I've called for several questions numerous times and each time the reps are great to chat with and never give you that feeling of being rushed off the phone. So glad I went with Surefire.

Sent from my galaxy s3 while holding my Colt M4 suppressed, mag fed, and illuminated by Surefire.
 
You guys didn't say anything about that brake on a 10.5" barrel?
Is that such a good idea?

If you are going to run it without a suppressor I would put the flash hider on. If you are going to run the suppressor all the time I would go with the brake. I have the brake on a 11.5 upper and it is insane without the suppressor but I don't plan to ever shoot it without the suppressor again. I do believe the muzzle brake will help slow the wear to the baffles better than the flash hider will.
 
You guys didn't say anything about that brake on a 10.5" barrel?
Is that such a good idea?

For 10.5" or less (pistol rated AR's) running suppressed, I'd run a brake / mount combo for sure. I've even spoken to Surefire about the fit and required clearance of my hand guard. They recommended the brake for 10.5" or less too. Think of the brake / mount as a sacrificial blast baffle. If you ran a direct thread on that short of a barrel the suppressor's blast baffle would have a very rough and short life. No suppressor, run what you like, flash hider or brake but, these shorty's are loud and obnoxious as issued.
 
I understand 100% suppressed with a brake and sacrificial baffle.
But damn how loud is that un suppressed? LOL
Your friends would not like you...

You guys run 100% suppressed?
I guess that would solve the POI shift problems.
 
My 3 gun rifle has a brake on it and I am a range officer so I get a lot of time in close proximity to different rifles with brakes. This 11.5 barrel with a Surefire brake is ridiculous even with plugs and muffs. I shot it once without the suppressor just to see how loud it was but it will be run 100% with the suppressor.