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Jp lrp-07?

L

LearningAsIGo

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
May 19, 2012
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Hello,

I have wanted a large frame AR for a while and was set on getting a GAP-10 until I read about the JP LRP-07 on here. I think I have decided to put an order in for one soon. My debate currently is between getting the .308 version or the 6.5CM. I know the CM is a flatter, longer shooting cartridge; however, it's also more expensive to shoot and the barrel life is less. Because of this I am leaning towards the .308 for now, with the thought I can get a 6.5CM upper or another rifle in the future. I also sort of feel I should master .308 before moving on, and should have a .308 semi. I do reload when I have time (which with my current work/life schedule isn't often), but mostly I buy plinking rounds from the local sporting goods shops. I am still relatively inexperienced with distance shooting, but want to get some experience and likely some training. It will mostly be for range shooting, and maybe occasional hunting.


My question is, am I missing out on a huge benefit by going .308? The build I am thinking of is below if anyone would offer suggestions/tweaks for it:


LRP-07™ Rifle
Upper Receiver: LRP-07MU Upper Receiver
Machined 7075-T6 billet aluminum side charge upper receiver with dust cover
Lower Receiver: LRP-07 Lower Receiver
Machined 7075-T6 billet aluminum lower receiver
Receiver Finish: Matte Black Receiver Color
Matte black anodized receiver set and hand guard.
Caliber: Caliber: .308 WIN

Barrel: 22" .308 JP Supermatch™ cryogenically treated stainless steel barrel
22" length ● 1:10 twist ● medium contour
Barrel/Comp Finish: Black Teflon®
Black Teflon® on barrel and muzzle treatment to give matte black finish.
Muzzle Treatment: JPTRE-424
JP Standard-Profile Compensator
1" x 2.25"
.350 exit
Matte Black

Comp Attachment method: Jam nut
Jam nut is used to install muzzle treatment
Hand Guard: JPHG-6D
JP Modular Hand Guard, Extra Length (15.5” OAL). Requires minimized gas block.
Gas System: JPGS-8
JP Adjustable Gas System Low profile .936" bore Black Aluminum
Heat Sink: Black JP Thermal Dissipator™, long for JP .750" contour barrels
The JP Thermal Dissipator™ far exceeds traditional fluting for transferring heat from the barrel.
Buttstock: Magpul PRS, Black
Magpul Precision Rifle Stock, black
Operating System: JPBC-4
JP .308 Low Mass Stainless Carrier with key installed
Operating Spring: JPSCS-AR10
AR-10 Silent Captured Spring
Trigger Weight: 3.5-pound JP reliability enhanced competition trigger
3.5-pound JP reliability enhanced competition trigger
Grip: Hogue grip, Black
Hogue grip, Black
Accessory Kit: Standard Large Frame Rifle Accessory Pack
GasGunBasics DVD FP-10
Johnson safety block Rifle manual
Rydol Chamber brush
JB bore compound Cable lock
JP hat Ear plugs
Magazine Custom collector grade box with high-density foam insert

Accessories:
JPTR-XL
JP Tactical Rail for 12:00 position, 15" extra long length Quantity: 1
JPTR-S
JP Tactical Rail Kit, 2" Section Quantity: 1
JPHG-SM
JP Single Point QD Sling Attachment for JP Modular or RC Hand Guards
 
I have a very similar JP. I actually started with the PRS stock and changed it to a UBR.
 
I forgot to include that my current plan is to outfit it with an Atlas bipod and a Vortex 6-24x50 FFP scope. From what I've read on here the Vortex is the best in the ~$1000 range? Do the Vortex's typically sell for the same price (I'm seeing $949 everywhere I look), or are there deals to be had on them?
 
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Except for the color treatment I pretty much have the same LRP.

You asked about 6.5 CM or .308 win.

.308 is how I went because:
I have other rifles in that caliber.
High quality ammo is readily available. Federal Gold Metal Match or Black Hills Match.
Its capable of up to 1000 yds +.
6.5 CM is more expensive.

Regardless of the caliber you chose the LRP is a great rifle easily capable of .5 moa or better.

I agree with MJY65 that the length of pull is longer on the PRS but I only shoot bench or prone and like it for that type of shooting.

You mentioned hunting.
At 22" its not what I'd call a light rifle and may be a bit much to hump around with in the woods.

Good luck with your choice.
 
MJY65 said:
The LOP on the PRS is quite long, and the cheekpiece adjustment didn't really help much. I'm liking the UBR much better.
Click to expand...

I found the same thing with my LR308. LOP was 14.75 inches. I switched the stock the rifle came with for an older style M16A1 stock that was about 1.25 inches shorter, and it fixed the issue. LOP is now right around 13.5 inches. The longer LOP is caused by the longer receiver needed for the full sized cartridges.
 
Hmm. I'll have to see if I can find both stocks locally and give them a try on a similar gun.

Anyone have opinions on the Vortex PST scopes? From what I've read on here they are a pretty good value. It would definitely be the best scope I have (currently I have a couple Zeiss scopes on hunting rifles). Would I (an in-experienced distance shooter), notice a huge improvement moving up to the Razor scopes, or a FFP Nightforce? Or would the PST be plenty? I read on here that there are some dealers who offer Hide members discounts? Can anyone point me to one of those or, does anyone have a recommended place to get decent deals on optics?

On a related, but also off-topic question (I don't want to clutter the forums with a million threads), does anyone have any good books/videos they can recommend for learning more about distance shooting? I plan to take some of the courses offered at Badlands one of these days, but want to build my proficiency a bit before going and making myself look like a fool.
 
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Well I agree with MJY65 on the UBR stock, this is a perfect fit for me and is lighter than the PRS. IMO the PRS stock is more for Accuracy and long distance shooting ( sniper rifle ) and the UBR stock works well for both Combat and Accuracy shooting, kind of a best of both worlds.
 
Does the UBR stock have a QD sling attachment point?

As far as shooting, this will be 99% a precision gun. I may try and use it for hunting, but probably not a I have a bolt gun I like for that.
 
I have a similar JP rifle also (22" barrel, 308, PRS stock). I left the barrel as stainless instead of matt black with the larger compensator and it looks very sharp. The rifle look so much better with a blended interface instead of a jam nut. I think a 308 is a better round for most people given the cost of ammo. I think the 6.5 creedmoor is more for the long range crowd who wants the 300 Win Mag performance, but don't want to deal with the recoil. If you reload, the 6.5 creed might not be a bad option in the future.

The gun is front heavy with the 22" barrel, so I use a PRS stock. The PRS balances out the weight of the barrel much better and I use the rifle mainly for precision only. The LOP is fine with me even though I'm just average build. I even added the enhanced buttpad and it adds another half inch to the length. I would keep it as a PRS since JP rifle will include a rifle-length buffer tube. If you decide to change it to UBR later, the UBR will come with a shorter tube. If you got the UBR and decide to go with PRS later, you will have to buy a new buffer tube.

I took some of the options out such as the silent captured spring and ordered my rifle with the standard stock. I ordered those parts separately and made the modifications myself. This way, I have an option of going to the standard buffer/spring and use the standard stock on another rifle build. They include a very nice polished spring / buffer on the default build.

The only other change I did to the rifle is to replace the stock bolt release with the Phase 5 Tactical Extended bolt release. I prefer to have a BAD lever on my rifles since it is awkward to release the bolt without having it slam forward. The updated bolt release allows me to release the bolt with my right hand while holding the charging handle lever with the left. Make sure you don't pull the lever back and leave it in that position. You pull the lever back and have to bring it back to the original position. If you don't do that, when you release the bolt, the lever would move forward with the bolt and may injure you. On a standard AR, you can grab the charging handle with your right hand, but you can't do that on the JP rifle since it has a side charging handle.

I just weigh my rifle with a very similar setup to your configuration with a scope, it is around 14 lbs. I wouldn't want to carry that around all day for hunting.
 
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If your build is intended for precision shooting 99% of the time I'd stick with the PRS.

I agree with Shadow in that the blended comp looks better but its a personnel preference.
Here is a pic.
 
Will the blended/timed muzzle work with a suppressor? That's the reason I went with the Jam nut. I was concerned that it wouldn't work with removing/adding suppressor.
 
I personally would go for the blended comp as well. However fo a supressor..yes keep the jam nut. Also think about its primary purpose is. I noticed you went with a 22" barrel. Is this just a range toy, or is it going to be a utility rifle (hunting, range use, property protection etc) if its along the utility line (as you hinted) I say go with 18". I have a 16", its deadly accurate and handy as hell in the woods. Barrel length is weight and tree branch catchers in the woods.

As for the 308/6.5 debate. The 308 is a dated catridge..I will not ever claim it is not. However its availability in both commercial and surplus offerings, as well as well suited for general purpose has made it my favorite caliber. For me I punch holes, ring steel out to 500, and put meat in my freezer. 308 does the trick for me.

Lastly do not question your purchase. The lrp is a fine rifle and worth every penny in my opinion.
 
ShadowXT said:
I just weigh my rifle with a very similar setup to your configuration with a scope, it is around 14 lbs. I wouldn't want to carry that around all day for hunting.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I wouldn't like use it hunting often. I have a couple bolt guns I would use hunting. If I did use this it would be slung over my shoulder in to a dedicated blind. It is 99% a long range precision rifle.
 
800mZero said:
I personally would go for the blended comp as well. However fo a supressor..yes keep the jam nut. Also think about its primary purpose is. I noticed you went with a 22" barrel. Is this just a range toy, or is it going to be a utility rifle (hunting, range use, property protection etc) if its along the utility line (as you hinted) I say go with 18". I have a 16", its deadly accurate and handy as hell in the woods. Barrel length is weight and tree branch catchers in the woods.

As for the 308/6.5 debate. The 308 is a dated catridge..I will not ever claim it is not. However its availability in both commercial and surplus offerings, as well as well suited for general purpose has made it my favorite caliber. For me I punch holes, ring steel out to 500, and put meat in my freezer. 308 does the trick for me.

Lastly do not question your purchase. The lrp is a fine rifle and worth every penny in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Thanks! This is mostly for long range. I have a few options for closer shooting (a Noveske and LWRC 5.56/300BLK) so thing one I want set up for "long range" shooting. The blended does look awesome; however, I have a couple suppressor to use for it and want to be able to (I have an SDN6 but don't want to add the 51t muzzle brake).
 
Fair enough. I personally would still go with a 18" juat to gain some handiness, but when you searching for 1000 I can understand your want for fps.
 
800mZero said:
Fair enough. I personally would still go with a 18" juat to gain some handiness, but when you searching for 1000 I can understand your want for fps.
Click to expand...

Yeah, this build is for maximum range. I have a milspec 5r rem 700 I picked up on a very good deal that is my usual hunting rifle. Plus a Savage 7mm RM. I will probably pick up a shorter upper for future hunting.
 
Make sure you check with JP Rifle to verify the threads on the barrel matches to your suppressor (it should be).

If you do decide to go with a shorter barrel, you may need to change your hand guard length to something shorter. I just measured my 22" barrel with the 15.5" handguard and the barrel sticks out 8.5" from the end of the handguard to the tip of the muzzle brake. It is one mean looking gun with the 22" barrel and 15.5" handguard. I have the larger muzzle brake (same as Odonnks's picture above) and it makes the gun look intimidating.

I'm just jealous of all the toys you can get. Californians are not as blessed. We are represented by Feinstein and Pelosi...
 
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I agree with 800m.
If your plan on using a suppressor stick with the jam nut.
Chances of spinning off a blended comp and getting it back on and keeping the blend would not be so good.
 
Thanks guys. I think I am going to leave the jam nut in the order. I think for this one I want the 22" barrel for the max velocity.

Is the Vortex PST going to be the best bang for buck, or does anyone have other similarly priced recommendations? Or, is it worth it (to a relative novice) to spend the dough on a Viper or NF?
 
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Honestly---your spending 4 grand for a rifle--get it the highest quality glass you can afford. I believe the nightforces are superb glass for the cash. The vortex vipers are excellent--with amazing customer service.
 
800mZero said:
Honestly---your spending 4 grand for a rifle--get it the highest quality glass you can afford. I believe the nightforces are superb glass for the cash. The vortex vipers are excellent--with amazing customer service.
Click to expand...

I completely agree to get the best I can... to a point. I'm working but in school as well, so money is a bit tight (the rifle is a big purchase for me) and every purchase has a trade-off. Basically I don't want to spend more than is necessary for my abilities... I can always upgrade later.
 
If you have zeiss scopes on other rifles I think you will be very disappointed in the vortex viper glass. My friend bought a vortex viper and I would rate the glass cloudier than the nikon Monarch. The budget long range scope I would recommend is the Sightron Siii or the Bushnell DMR with G2 reticle.
 
My budget is about $1K (I can go higher if I have to, but it would mean waiting a bit after ordering rifle).

I do like my Zeiss scopes. I did look at comparison shots of the PST online (I know that won't tell me TOO much). From what I saw the PSTs looked decent enough.
 
For a 1000 I would look at some optics like the leupold mk 4 line. Quality scopes, built like a Tank. A little dated in technology, but a solid start.

Also keep an eye on the px here for some great deals on quality used glass. I have seen some leupold mk4s 6.5-20s , and 8-32s for under a grand.
 
my $.02 would be the 18" barrel and an ace stock. The 22" barrel and PRS stock are a lot of weight that could be shaved off without accuracy degradation.
 
Looks like you have the makings of a very nice rifle! I shoot the 22" in comps and hunting.

As far as optics go in the 1k range I would also consider the bushnell hdmr. Used they should come in around your price range. I had three vortex pst's at one time. They were fine but if did it over I would have gone with the hdmr

Posts some pics when the rifle comes in
 
Here2Learn said:
Looks like you have the makings of a very nice rifle! I shoot the 22" in comps and hunting.

As far as optics go in the 1k range I would also consider the bushnell hdmr. Used they should come in around your price range. I had three vortex pst's at one time. They were fine but if did it over I would have gone with the hdmr

Posts some pics when the rifle comes in
Click to expand...

I definitely will. Haven't put the build order in yet but plan to in the next 2-3 weeks I think. I'm now thinking I will look at slightly higher glass; maybe a Razor or the new (albeit heavy) Gen2 Razors.
 
2 new questions:

1) What would you all recommend for sling attachment (method and location)? I have a Vickers QD on another rifle and really like it, so would probably go with another of those for the actual sling.

2) How does the JP mount compare to the SPUHR mount? pros/cons of each for a JP rifle?
 
LearningAsIGo said:
I have a Vickers QD on another rifle and really like it, so would probably go with another of those for the actual sling.
Click to expand...

Another Vickers I mean. Are there any drawbacks to the QD attachments over regular attachments on a precision rifle? Also, on my other ARs the sling attaches to the side of the rail, but that seems like it would pull the rifle to the side in more precise applications, so should it be on the bottom instead for this rifle?
 
Jp makes the qd adapater for the rail. Its a fine piece. I wouldnt worry about tension, the jp freefloat tube is a rock. Your not going to twist or pull it.
 
Likely submitting the build Friday. Now for the 2-3 month wait.

Ordering scope in a month or so (likely the new Razor Gen 2).
 
On/Off Topic -- JP's customer service is second to NONE! If you have an issue or a question, a live person picks up the phone and actually listens to your needs. I just talked with Dusten at JP and this guy represents all that is good at JP. He gives a crap about your problem/issue and fixes it!

JP - great guns and phenomenal customer service!
 
I'd really consider the 6.5CM personally. It's categorically superior to the 308 in every way except for ability to take down game at short range. I'd argue that shooting match grade ammo is cheaper ($22 a box!) in 6.5. Pretty hard to find FGMM for that price in 308. And why would you shoot non-match ammo in a rifle like that? As for barrel life, you do give up a little, but by the time you shoot out a 6.5CM barrel you might want to change up your rifle anyway.

And I just don't buy the "have one 308" argument. But I've never been one to care for classics. I'll take cutting edge anyday. JMHO!
 
Sorry, yes it has QD sling attachment points and don't worry JP's people will make sure everything is right. This is why I went with JP Enterprise their Quality Control is Unmatched in making sure that everything is done right. You will not believe just how beautiful and well made these rifles are until you get one and just sort of admire it a while and take it apart, this is where a rifle can really shine.
 
Finally ready to pull the trigger so to speak. All I have left to decide before ordering tomorrow is 6.5 vs .308. I really like the ballistics of 6.5. However, I already have quite a few calibers and adding another seems like a pain, plus the local availability and barrel life of .308. Decisions, decisions.


I'm having a hard time finding consistent numbers on the barrel life of 6.5 vs .308, anyone have input? I've seen 6.5 listed from 1500-6000 and .308 from 5k to 10k.

As it stands I think I am leaning towards the 6.5.
 
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I just ordered one this week, very similar with the 16" barrell. I have a 1000' range but most of my shooting will be 600 or less. I'll also be running a can most of the time. I ordered mine without the dust cover because i'm mostly going to be target shooting and hunting. What are your reasons for the dust cover? I ordered mine in .308 fwiw.
 
Dust covers just help keep a little more dirt out of the action but I never seen the need for one.
 
that's what I was thinking for the way I'll use it. I did get the syrac block since i'll probably run it with and without the can.
 
I guess it all depends on where you live and what you are going to use you're rifle for.
 
I'm going with the dust cover just to have it, plus here in OK it gets dry and windy... so the more dust I can keep out, the better.
 
i'll let you know if I have any problems without it. When I was talking with them about it I was originally going to get the receiver with the dust cover and he said it was up to me but he didn't think i'd need it for what I was doing with it I don't think you can go wrong either way. Good luck with your build.
 
Just placed my order.

LRP-07™ Rifle Base Price:
Upper Receiver: LRP-07MU Upper Receiver
Machined 7075-T6 billet aluminum side charge upper receiver with dust cover
Lower Receiver: LRP-07 Lower Receiver
Machined 7075-T6 billet aluminum lower receiver
Receiver Finish: Matte Black Receiver Color
Matte black anodized receiver set and hand guard.
Caliber: Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor

Barrel: 22" 6.5 Creedmoor JP Supermatch™ cryogenically treated stainless steel barrel
22" length ● 1:8 twist ● medium contour
Barrel/Comp Finish: Black Teflon®
Black Teflon® on barrel and muzzle treatment to give matte black finish
Muzzle Treatment: JPTRE-5.58B.875
JP Large-Profile Compensator
1.2" x 2.75"
.350 Exit
Matte Black

Comp Attachment method: Jam nut
Jam nut is used to install muzzle treatment
Hand Guard: JPHG-6D
JP Modular Hand Guard, Extra Length (15.5” OAL). Requires minimized gas block.
Gas System: JPGS-8
JP Adjustable Gas System Low profile .936" bore Black Aluminum
Heat Sink: Black JP Thermal Dissipator™, long for JP .750" contour barrels
The JP Thermal Dissipator™ far exceeds traditional fluting for transferring heat from the barrel.
Buttstock: Magpul PRS, Black
Magpul Precision Rifle Stock, black
Operating System: JPBC-4
JP .308 Low Mass Stainless Carrier with key installed
Operating Spring: JPSCS-AR10
AR-10 Silent Captured Spring
Trigger Weight: 3.5-pound JP reliability enhanced competition trigger
3.5-pound JP reliability enhanced competition trigger
Grip: Hogue grip, Black
Hogue grip, Black
Laser Marking: Base JP Logo
Basic JP Logo Laser Mark
Accessory Kit: Standard Large Frame Rifle Accessory Pack
GasGunBasics DVD FP-10
Johnson safety block Rifle manual
Rydol Chamber brush
JB bore compound Cable lock
JP hat Ear plugs
Magazine Custom collector grade box with high-density foam insert

Accessories:
JPTR-XL -
JP Tactical Rail for 12:00 position, 15" extra long length Quantity: 1
JPTR-S -
JP Tactical Rail Kit, 2" Section Quantity: 1
JPHG-SM -
JP Single Point QD Sling Attachment for JP Modular or RC Hand Guards Quantity: 1
TP5/8X24 .875B -
Thread Protector in 5/8x24 thread and .875 OD Quantity: 1
 
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