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Dillon 1050 Super with options

Labanaktis

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 23, 2013
469
492
Michigan, Lower West side
I am considering a Dillon Super 1050 for 9mm. I have a Hornady LNL Ammo Plant fully loaded. It works just fine. I was thinking about just running 9mm on the Dillon and load my 10mm, 45ACP and rifle calibers on the Hornady because I already have the conversions for them. I am thinking the Dillon will help me and a few friends keep loaded with 9mm. We shoot Full Auto....

How is the reliability with the Dillon Super 1050? If its as good as I have heard I would like to add the following to help speed the process up.

RL 1050 Bullet Feeder For The 9MM and 38 Super Caliber

I like the idea of having the bullet seated before moving onto the next station.

and a ....

Forcht Firearms and Machine

This would help speed it up. As long as the reliability is good I should have to just watch the press and feed it primers.

So the breakdown:

Dillon Super 1050 $1700
GSI International $700
Forcht Drive $1200

Total: $3600


Is it worth it for loading 20K-22K 9mm a year?

Thanks, Matt
 
Cant speak as to the reliability of a fully automated S1050 but I run 5 calibers off mine manually and I absolutely love it.

My hiccups tend to center on formerly crimped brass every once in a while getting a pocket that needs a touch more swage. I blame myself for this issue because I set the swage up for one brand of crimped brass with fingers crossed it would work on other NATO manufacturers. Ive found its about 95% plus good but would probably be 100% if I set the swage to each manufacturer and ran my brass in homogeneous runs of brass.
 
Cool. Ill take note of that. At this point I am just looking into this. Thanks for chiming in as a user. Most of the 9mm 98-99% is range pickups locally so the crimped brass is to a minimum.
 
That's a personal judgement. Empirically, you have to attend the operation anyhow. So 2k a month would be 3-4 hours and 2k manual pulls per month on a 650.

Depends what you would be doing with your hands while watching the 1050 I guess :)
 
Yes, I get that. I think I am asking how reliable this setup might be? The Bullet Feeder should be solid. I have heard there are issues with priming sometimes. The Swaginig was something I didnt know about either.

Just trying to get some input on the press itself. I have never used one.

Thanks, Matt
 
I wouldn't buy the drive or the bullet feeder for only 20,000 a year. It sounds like a lot, but really isn't. The bullet tray is a good ergonomic solution, and it lets you still use a powder check. To me, at that quantity, I would much prefer to have the additional money and a powder check.
 
From everything I have seen, it would take up that space, using Dillon dies. The head has "8 positions." First is the cutout where the case drop sits. Second is the decapping station. Third is swaging station. Fourth is the priming station. Fifth is the powder drop. Sixth is usually the powder check. Seventh is the seating station. Eighth is crimp station, followed by ejection. You could use a seat/crimp die and still run a powder check along with a bullet drop, if you are running the same projectile. If not going that route, the steps I mentioned are the way most do it.
 
Get the Mr bullet feeder for 550$ and start cranking.

The autodrives work good once setup but can be finicky to setup.


The bullet feeder is well worth it though.
 
I like the Mr. Bullet Feeder. The only issue I have is that you need a proper bell in order to minimize the tip flopping out. If I put an auto-drive on it that might become an issue.... maybe? Thats why I was looking at the GSI... because it seats the bullet before it leaves that station.

Are you saying the GSI Feeders are inconsistent? Once its set up do they maintain consistency?

Thanks, Matt
 
I think getting this set up might be a little hassle but worth it. That being said maybe I'll get it set up without the auto-drive and add it after I live with it for awhile.

Matt
 
No input on any of the auto feed features but I have been running a standard old 1050 loading only 9mm for several years now.

I have had ONE major glitch. A primer tube explosion a few years back. NO idea what I did wrong. Zero safety issues with the detonation as the primer tube is heavy, the few primers that escaped went UP into the ceiling. Scared the hell out of the cat who was sleeping on the end of the bench for sure. Possibly a piece of tumbling media or a piece of primer, maybe an anvil somehow got into the priming station??? No idea. Hasn't happened since.

That was the only major issue I have had in probably 80k rds of nine.

I load AAC #7 quite a bit as it's easy to visibly check if the case has powder as it comes around to your left to get the bullet placed for seating. Occasionally for some reason the powder measure will glitch and not dump a powder charge. So I like to visually check. A low powder sensor is a good idea.

Great press with good support available from dillon....as usual.

FN in MT
 
I started out on a lock n load, I now have two 1050's one RL and one Super.
I load all pistol ammo on the RL and all my rifle on the Super.

I have never looked back, the action is so much smoother in my opinion.
 
I started out on a lock n load, I now have two 1050's one RL and one Super.
I load all pistol ammo on the RL and all my rifle on the Super.

I have never looked back, the action is so much smoother in my opinion.



Thanks for the info. I was watching a couple of videos and yes, the action looks alot smoother then my Hornady LNL. I like the LNL, but I really think the 1050 would speed things up and just be easier to reload on.... epically for the long runs.

Thx, Matt
 
I've got 2 1050's: one is forcht auto drive equipped and the other is manual. I don't load on the auto drive, it's strictly brass prep. The hand cranked loads only 9mm. I have a mr bullet feeder coming for it but not sure if it will speed things up but it will make it more efficient.

I wouldn't step to a 1050 with auto drive and bullet feeder in one go personally. Even after hand cranking 10k 9mm I still don't know if I would ever want auto drive for loading. I know a lot of people are but I don't know. Lots of stuff going on and the auto drive makes it so easy to break lots of stuff since you have no feel. There is a lot going on that you can feel when cranking by hand. For brass prep the auto drive rules but I'm not sold on it for loading.

As far as the gsi stuff, not sold on it when a mr bullet feeder is cheaper and works just as well. It's nice stuff, don't get me wrong but bottom dollar favors the mr bullet feeder.
 
I've got 2 1050's: one is forcht auto drive equipped and the other is manual. I don't load on the auto drive, it's strictly brass prep. The hand cranked loads only 9mm. I have a mr bullet feeder coming for it but not sure if it will speed things up but it will make it more efficient.

I wouldn't step to a 1050 with auto drive and bullet feeder in one go personally. Even after hand cranking 10k 9mm I still don't know if I would ever want auto drive for loading. I know a lot of people are but I don't know. Lots of stuff going on and the auto drive makes it so easy to break lots of stuff since you have no feel. There is a lot going on that you can feel when cranking by hand. For brass prep the auto drive rules but I'm not sold on it for loading.

As far as the gsi stuff, not sold on it when a mr bullet feeder is cheaper and works just as well. It's nice stuff, don't get me wrong but bottom dollar favors the mr bullet feeder.

Good to know. I will probably get a 1050 and run it manually for awhile first. Makes more since to learn the system before taking it up a notch.

You will love the bullet feeder. I have the Hornady Bullet Feeder on my LNL. Its GREAT! as long as you have a proper bell on the case and your using jacketed bullets. I actually use plated and with a little larger bell it helps. I would like to try coated lead this year to.... might be buying a casting machine.

Damn Machine Guns eat ammo.

Thanks, Matt