I can tell you mine was around 3 lbs. Gritty and had a lot of creep. Dropped in a timney 2 stage flat and never looked back. Awesome trigger. I did keep the factory one as a back up just in case the timney fails. My Timney is 8 oz first stage and around 14-15 oz second stage.
I can tell you mine was around 3 lbs. Gritty and had a lot of creep. Dropped in a timney 2 stage flat and never looked back. Awesome trigger. I did keep the factory one as a back up just in case the timney fails. My Timney is 8 oz first stage and around 14-15 oz second stage.
I installed the Timney flat as well and agree it’s a huge upgrade from stock. I haven’t played with the adjustments on it yet but think it’s time I do. Any pointers? I’ve never adjusted any of my own triggers.
I left mine as is from timney. There are instructions online at the timney website on how you can adjust your pull weight for the 2nd stage, I believe it’s the rear lower screw. I personally feel 1.5 lbs total weight is the lightest I’d go. If I use a pull weight less than that I tend to get less than ideal shot placements due to improper finger placement and almost feeling like I slapped the trigger due to the lack of weight to pull before I need to shoot the round off.
Is anybody making prefit barrels for the new 300 win mag and 338 Lapua??
You may not be able to put lens covers on and might have to smash your face on the cheek rest to get a good sight alignment. Most folks I talk with go 1.5in for a 56mm objective
Thanks, have a Spuhr 4006 laying around from a previous rifle and was considering an RPR. Might have to count the RPR out though.
You can always sell or find a trade for the mount, it being a 34mm main tube mount shouldn’t be too hard to find another person that would want it. It being a spuhr it won’t lose much of its value either.
S
So pretty new to the forum. I just got a gen3 rpr in 6.5 and looking to upgrade the bolt shroud. I really like the Anarchy Outdoors titanium shroud but wish it came in black to match the new nitride coated bolt on the gen3. Just wondering if I could get some feedback from you guys to see if there’s other options I’m missing. I know you can get the AO in black aluminum and same with LRI but like the idea of the heavier titanium shroud with tool. Thanks!
So pretty new to the forum. I just got a gen3 rpr in 6.5 and looking to upgrade the bolt shroud. I really like the Anarchy Outdoors titanium shroud but wish it came in black to match the new nitride coated bolt on the gen3. Just wondering if I could get some feedback from you guys to see if there’s other options I’m missing. I know you can get the AO in black aluminum and same with LRI but like the idea of the heavier titanium shroud with tool. Thanks!
You can have it microslicked. I had my bolt fluted and microslicked and it runs way better than it did new out of the box.
Huh, never heard of it. I’ll have to look into that. Thanks!
I shipped mine to Andrew Delikat. I insured it for $500 because it didn’t want the bolt to get lost. If it did I would at least get something back. He did an amazing job and I highly recommend it. He can also flute your shroud to match your bolt flute if you go that route. His pricing is pretty cheap too.
I loaded the bipod plenty when I had the Samson guard and never had a problem
My gen 3 has the newer style rail and it to when it came from the factory seemed a bit loose had a lot of flex, took it off cleaned everything reinstalled it and torqued all the screws down with a little bit of blue loctite and I have had no issues whatsoever since, I also run the atlas bipod with spiked feet so I know I load the bipod pretty heavy and it's still hasn't caused any further issues.
Sorry to hijack but can anyone pm me that has the MI 15 inch handguard for the RPR? Im having issues with installation. Much appreciated!
Good idea. I don't have my scope yet. Saving nickels for a Vortex PST II FFP 5-25x50 MOA. I should check this in advance and will do so. When I removed my handguard I was surprised at how much lubricant was slathered on the handguard bushing and bushing nut. Got to thinking about the mess that would have been if left unattended for a couple hundred rounds to cook it. Like you said, blue loctite after a lot of Hoppes.
I blue loctite everything on my entire rifle. But I also use 190 gr bullets and no brake.
My .308 trigger pull was 2.25 lb. I liked the .308 so much that I also got one in 5.56. Its trigger was also 2.25 lb. I'm not a trigger expert, but both feel sweet to me with no creep. I left the triggers as-is. On the other hand my RPRR was 4+ pounds and came from the factory as heavy as it would go. I backed of the trigger pull screw, and now it's 2.x lb (I don't recall its exact weight).
I have this very scope on mine but in MRAD flavor. IIRC I snagged it near Christmas for a sub $600 bill.
Finally have all my parts together to get my RPR off the ground. Suppressor alignment rod for 6.5 came in a few days ago from McMaster and I got my Magpul stock and rings for the ATACR ready to go. Now to find time to build... having kids under 2yrs old sure takes a bite out of my free time 
Then I look to see if I can get some Prime 130gr on order and they're out of stock
Then I look to see if I can get some Prime 130gr on order and they're out of stock
How is the 6.5 Prime 130g? I've been using Hornady 140g ELD-M and American Gunner with pretty good results with the RPR from to 500-800 yards.
Everyone I've talked to has said it's the bees knees in the RPR. I was planning to order a couple boxes and also get some Hornady 140gr ELD's to compare. Once I've saved up enough (see previous comments about kids, dang they're expensive!) to start laying in components and get some good dies and measurement tools for the 6.5 I'll load my own but small quantities of factory match will have to do for now.
I have the 6mm also. Is that factory 108s? If so what brand? I am handloading and am at 0.5-0.7MOA for 5 shot groups.
Bumping this because there is now a website https://ttprecisionproducts.com and He has a number of items in stock take a look
Considering jumping into the RPR platform. Doing some marketing work for a local gun shop and they have a RPR in 6mm I can grab for a good price. Is 6mm something I really want to get into?
I have no problem getting into reloading for 6mm Creedmoor, but I already have a Ruger American that I was going to do a little accuracy project with in 6.5mm Creedmoor
Thoughts?
I have no problem getting into reloading for 6mm Creedmoor, but I already have a Ruger American that I was going to do a little accuracy project with in 6.5mm Creedmoor
Thoughts?
Was in the same boat.... Didn't even look at the 6c but found one for a great price and bought it with intention to rebarrel to 6.5c. Bought some cheap dies and 50 brass to try it before changing. The accuracy was astonishing. I am so glad I left it alone. As soon as the weather breaks plan a 6x5 but I am pretty certain it is a 1/2 moa gun. The RPR quickly moved to my top 5 favorite guns in the safe. But it. You won't regret it
Interesting-thanks for the tip. We both had a similar idea, I was thinking I could rebarrel in 6.5 from PVA and be at a pretty similar price to the RPR factory 6.5 because of the discount on the 6mm. Maybe I’ll pull the trigger
Prime for my rig shoots better than that American gunner at distance. I can’t get gunner to group less then 14 inches at 1000 yards but have consistently gotten 10.5 - 8 inches out of prime. I personally like the faster 130’s. I mainly shoot prime and federal gmm 130 bergers. Prime also has good consistency. My avg mv is around 2820fps and sd’s between 12-8. To me it’s definitely worth the money for a case of prime and the brass is really good to reload.
RE: 6.5CM Prime 130g -
I have only been able to shoot it out to 300 yards. The best groups I shot were a CH under 2". I think if I honed my skills more I could have tightened the groups up even tighter.
I do not have anything to measure muzzle velocity but one day at my range there was a guy that had a labradar. He clocked (3) rounds for me.
1st shot = 2879 (cold barrel, right out of the case)
2nd shot = 2856
3rd shot = 2845
Factory barrel, about 1500 rounds through it. I shot these pretty quick as the guy was leaving.
I have only been able to shoot it out to 300 yards. The best groups I shot were a CH under 2". I think if I honed my skills more I could have tightened the groups up even tighter.
I do not have anything to measure muzzle velocity but one day at my range there was a guy that had a labradar. He clocked (3) rounds for me.
1st shot = 2879 (cold barrel, right out of the case)
2nd shot = 2856
3rd shot = 2845
Factory barrel, about 1500 rounds through it. I shot these pretty quick as the guy was leaving.
Gen 2 in 308. Last time I went out, I had just put on the surefire brake and I was getting more fliers. Today everything was consistent. I ran groups with Hornady and IMI brass and had good results with both. I didn’t notice any fliers.
I’ve swapped out the stock with a gen 1 prs, surefire brake, atlas bipod, my own pistol grip, and removed that trigger spring for a frighteningly light pull.
Spent most of the morning helping my dad get comfortable with his bergara. Today was a good day.
I’ve swapped out the stock with a gen 1 prs, surefire brake, atlas bipod, my own pistol grip, and removed that trigger spring for a frighteningly light pull.
Spent most of the morning helping my dad get comfortable with his bergara. Today was a good day.
Attachments
I did try 1 box of Fed GMM 130g Bergers out of the RPR, but I was only shooting @ 100 yards. I think it was near round 80 after the initial break-in period, and my group size was very close to the 140g ELD-M. The ELD-M was a bit cheaper and easier to find locally when I went looking, so I settled on it for awhile. Then I tried out the Hornady 140g American Gunner with it's even better price & local availability (along with some pretty good feedback on the thread of same name here). I started to notice some misses though, which I admit, could be ALL ME. But regardless, I convinced myself to revert back and ordered a case of 140g ELD-M when a deal came up on Bud's (which is still sitting unopened due to winter conditions).
Based on what you guys have shared, it sounds like I will need to revisit Fed GMM 130g Bergers along with the Prime 130g in the Spring. (Especially in my planned push out to 1000+ yards).
Thanks Gentlemen
Based on what you guys have shared, it sounds like I will need to revisit Fed GMM 130g Bergers along with the Prime 130g in the Spring. (Especially in my planned push out to 1000+ yards).
Thanks Gentlemen
I’ve taken the 140 ELD’s out to 1,400. So you shouldn’t have to worry about the ammo holding you back.
I did try 1 box of Fed GMM 130g Bergers out of the RPR, but I was only shooting @ 100 yards. I think it was near round 80 after the initial break-in period, and my group size was very close to the 140g ELD-M. The ELD-M was a bit cheaper and easier to find locally when I went looking, so I settled on it for awhile. Then I tried out the Hornady 140g American Gunner with it's even better price & local availability (along with some pretty good feedback on the thread of same name here). I started to notice some misses though, which I admit, could be ALL ME. But regardless, I convinced myself to revert back and ordered a case of 140g ELD-M when a deal came up on Bud's (which is still sitting unopened due to winter conditions).
Based on what you guys have shared, it sounds like I will need to revisit Fed GMM 130g Bergers along with the Prime 130g in the Spring. (Especially in my planned push out to 1000+ yards).
Thanks Gentlemen
I know people that have taken the 147’s out to 1300+ yards so anything in the 130-147 range will be good in the ruger. Like I was saying in my previous post I just tend to lean towards the lighter faster 130’s, just my personal preference.
To those of you that have shipped their rifle back to Ruger. What carrier did you use? And what did you put the rifle in? I do not have the original box anymore and it says to not use a carrying case to send to them.
I was dry firing and noticed the sound of my firing all of a sudden changed. Took the bolt out, shroud off and I noticed the little piece of the ‘#3 - Firing Pin Back’ was broke off.
I wish they would just send a replacement but I’m assuming they’re gonna make me send the whole thing back. I sent them an email since it’s Sunday, otherwise I’d call.
Anyone with similar experience please chime in.
I was dry firing and noticed the sound of my firing all of a sudden changed. Took the bolt out, shroud off and I noticed the little piece of the ‘#3 - Firing Pin Back’ was broke off.
I wish they would just send a replacement but I’m assuming they’re gonna make me send the whole thing back. I sent them an email since it’s Sunday, otherwise I’d call.
Anyone with similar experience please chime in.
How fast are you pushing the 130's?
I think that all the match ammo out there is good stuff. I do not think you could wrong shooting any of it.
Prime avg 2818 FPS. Of course when it’s 90 degrees here I can get around 2840 out of them.
Federal 130 Berger avg 2826. Can also get around 2840 in hotter weather.
I’ve noticed that prime has a better bc and the bullets use .1 mil less elevation at 1000 yards than federal. But my best groups have come from federal.
I’ve got a TL3 with a PVA 6.5 I’m going to build on. We will see what I can get out of that barrel.
I ask because I’m around 2840 with the 140s.. kinda expected the 130s to be faster.
Factory barrel? Factory ammo? What’s your elevation? Round count? I’m only at 1100 rounds down the pipe. 140’s avg 2748. I’m at sea level
I bought mine a few years ago so things may be different now but with mine everything worked smoothly from the start.
