I have a spare GRS Sporter stock inlet for the T3x. If in buy a T1x, is the bottom plastic removable and transferable to my GRS stock, or will I need to buy a new piece? If I need a new piece, will standard T3x bottom. Plastic work with the T1x magazine? I have a spare one of those as well.
- Thread starter jbell
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You can remove the plastic and transfer it, should be a drop in fit.
Won't work. Different hole spacing.
Thanks, that’s what I was thinking
Has anyone had issues with weak ejection? I had some trouble over the weekend with fired brass not ejecting. No issues with loaded rounds or snap caps. Any ideas?
You, sir, just spent some of my money. I will buy the T1x and skip the CZ457 I was planning to buy. The Tikka will make a near identical understudy to my T3x 308, which also wears a GRS Sporter stock in forest camo. Cannot wait to order the T1x!
What ammo did you use?
I've had problems only with RWS R100.
I was using CCI and SK.
I thought this was getting a little uncivilized with talk of ejection and hole spacing.
I have also had issues with CCI SV ejecting, no feed issues with 3 different mags but multiple times the brass just does not eject properly.
Very unfortunate because CCI SV is giving me 1/4" groups at 50, 1/2" groups at 100, wolf match extra just slightly more consistent but not worth for me at 3x the cost.
For data sake if it helps anyone narrow down what is causing the ejection issues, my T1X was dropped into a T3X CTR stock.
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Has anyone found another pic rail that fits? I waited too long and EuroOptic is sold out of both the 0moa and 20moa contessa rails.
Also, if you order 2+ mags on Beretta’s website, the price drops to $31.50, and the code Bar15 still works to a save a little more.
Also, if you order 2+ mags on Beretta’s website, the price drops to $31.50, and the code Bar15 still works to a save a little more.
DIP industries. 0moa in stock 25moa back ordered. High quality.
Didn't want to wait ages for actual T1x Bravo so decided to fit it in T3 version. Thanks skinnj1 for the description of what has to be done.
Ordered the stock in January and finally got it after two months (yes, sometimes it's hard to get US stuff in Europe
).
After the research I found that there are basically two (or more) ways of fitting it in:
I decided to try the first method and then go to second if it won't work.
First I used a file to make the magwell attachment point a bit thinner, because I was afraid that there is not enough metal on the frame to fit it as it was. Originally it was 4mm thick and I sanded it to 3mm. (Please do this on your own risk, because plastic is kind of a fragile part and hard to fix after it got broken).
(I also made it shorter, which isn't really needed).
The second problem is a 6mm screw with a huge head. I replaced it with a flat countersunk from which I removed cone using a drill + angle grinder.
Trigger guard. I ground it like in guns_not_groceries post.
And the last thing, aluminum backbone. This was the main problem that bothered me, because I din't have any friend with a milling machine and machine shop could ask the price of an actual stock for this small job.
Luckily I found a milling machine in a local library workshop and here is the result:
The original trigger guard screw is way too big to fit even after filing, so I went with 5mm flat countersunk:
Ordered the stock in January and finally got it after two months (yes, sometimes it's hard to get US stuff in Europe
).After the research I found that there are basically two (or more) ways of fitting it in:
- Mill enough metal from the aluminum frame where trigger guard gets attached.
- Completely cut "bridge" that holds trigger guard, shorten the trigger guard and use metal/plastic insertion to the rail to hold a trigger guard in. Like guns_not_groceries posted: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t1x.6841183/post-7530623
Instead of an aluminum I 3D printed it from ABS plastic.
I decided to try the first method and then go to second if it won't work.
First I used a file to make the magwell attachment point a bit thinner, because I was afraid that there is not enough metal on the frame to fit it as it was. Originally it was 4mm thick and I sanded it to 3mm. (Please do this on your own risk, because plastic is kind of a fragile part and hard to fix after it got broken).
(I also made it shorter, which isn't really needed).
The second problem is a 6mm screw with a huge head. I replaced it with a flat countersunk from which I removed cone using a drill + angle grinder.
Trigger guard. I ground it like in guns_not_groceries post.
And the last thing, aluminum backbone. This was the main problem that bothered me, because I din't have any friend with a milling machine and machine shop could ask the price of an actual stock for this small job.
Luckily I found a milling machine in a local library workshop and here is the result:
The original trigger guard screw is way too big to fit even after filing, so I went with 5mm flat countersunk:
Area 419 is making 15 and 30 MOA T1X rails. Didn’t think that had been mentioned here yet.
Tikka T1X Improved Scope Rail
At Area 419 we decided that there were no scope bases on the market that really met our requirements for quality, so we made our own. Its all in the little details that set this base apart from the competition. These are machined in house on our 4-axis HAAS VMC from 7075 Aluminum. Straight...
www.area419.com I found theirs after a little bit of searching. I emailed them to find out when they are shipping and it sounds like sometime next week. According to their customer service person I was emailing their first batch was pretty large, so they haven’t sold out with the pre-orders yet. I went ahead and ordered their 15MOA rail, I look forward to being able to try out my Tikka once it arrives.Tikka T1X Improved Scope Rail
At Area 419 we decided that there were no scope bases on the market that really met our requirements for quality, so we made our own. Its all in the little details that set this base apart from the competition. These are machined in house on our 4-axis HAAS VMC from 7075 Aluminum. Straight...
<iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https://www.facebook.com/area419/videos/1128033387358264/&show_text=0&width=560" width="560" height="315" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allowFullScreen="true"></iframe>
Yep, in the FB post just prior to the pre-order one I linked to they stated that the first batch was already completed and out for anodizing. That was last week so shipping next week sounds about right.
I got my T1X last Thur and had it at the range on Sat. For whatever reason mine came from the factory with the MAXIMUM possible trigger pull set (~5lbs). I should have checked it prior to the range trip. If you don't already make sure to get a set of metric allen keys to remove the stock and adjust the trigger.
I have also experienced weak ejection with RWS; mine shoots it really well though. Whenever I’m able to I will try and get a rim thickness measurement on the RWS and the stuff that has consistent ejection. My guess would be that’s where the difference lies.
On my rifle it didn't throw the case out, but just reversed it inside the extraction port, so the bottom of a case was pointing to the barrel.
Since september I shot few thousand rounds and never had an extraction problem, mostly CCI SV (which gives best groups on 50m indoor range) and Eley Tenex Biathlon which is the best for 100-200m, and because of it's speed it's not affected by the wind that much, so shooting in a ~4m/s wind could give you a consistent submoa on 100m.
Missed that. Thank you.
Heavy Duty Tikka T1X Picatinny rail, 20 MOA, standard length
Like all our rails, this is: Fits Tikka T1X rimfire rifles Give your Tikka T1X a rugged look with our heavy duty rail Manufactured from US made 7075 Aluminum (far stronger and harder than 6061…
782guns.com
Yep. DIP, Inc. has 0 moa and 25 moa but that one is currently out of stock. https://www.diproductsinc.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3601
The cartridges that consistently eject have a primer approx 3 thousands thicker than the ones that don't. I've read elsewhere you can work on the extractor to get it to work better. I haven't dug enough yet to see what it would entail. My guess is that the extractor is holding it better with the thicker rim getting the case more leverage against the ejector.
If anyone else ordered one from brownells, I spoke with them regarding another order and they are projecting June for when they'll have them in.
UPDATE: It's on the way so apparently they have a few or just got them!
UPDATE: It's on the way so apparently they have a few or just got them!
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Just got my T1X all mounted up into my McMillan A5. Waiting for my mountain Tactical rail to show up so I can take it to the range.
Thanks guys! I will try to get more pictures after I get the mag fitment done and get the scope rail in and mounted up with my scope.
Re-posting this over here ...
T1x (20 inch) .22lr from Brownell's ordered April 2018 ... received hum ... maybe Nov 2018 ?
DI 25 moa rail
Athlon Argos 6-24x scope
L&S mk4 steel medium (1.3) rings
Harris 6-9 bipod
Lapua center-x
First attempt to shoot the 1/4 dots.
Wind was ~10 mph 315 off bullet path.
Shot 30 dots with 30 rds.
Results below.
2019-03-16
1700-1800
40F
10 MPH NW
Goal: dots with Tikka T1a
Environment: Warm, muddy, but sunny and drying out a little prior to 4 days of rain forecast over the next week. Wind blowing 315 off the bullet path.
Equipment: Tikka T1a with Athlon Argos 6-24x. Lapua Center-X
Activity: This was the first bunch of the 1/4 dots at 25yds I've tried. Why am I at 25yds? Because I am also using this for day vermin rifle, specifically tree rats and want to be doubled zeroed at 25yds and around 70yds (haven't worked it out exactly, but it has been between 64yds and 71yds for the other .22lr with about 1 inch up at 50yds). The stoner .22lr(16) has the ODIN on it now and is repurposed as the night ratter.
I fired 3 mags of 10 rounds each from top to bottom, left to right. As you can see, I struggled with the top dot of each string. That must be a position issue. I see similar with my center fire dots. Struggle at the top of the target. Well I see this when prone, as I was today. Don't see that problem when shooting off tripod.
So 4 total misses (one of them is a "bare" tag, but I don't feel comfortable counting is as a tag, Then six tags and 20 center hits.
Summary/Results:
Well, that's not a "pass" .. need minimum of 27 center hits and it can be done. I was "straining" in some way for the tags, so by focusing on removing strain think I can get 27+ and that would be a pass. The goal is 30 center hits and I think that can be done as well.
Again, this was the first attempt on these 1/4 dots with the t1a, and the rifle and ammo did fine. And the scope can get the job done.
==
I did have about 5 weak ejects from round 15 thru 25 ... maybe it was me running the bolt weakly ? I'll try to pay more attention next time.
The chin weld is pretty weak as well, and I might need to try the bravo when it comes out.
But, I think the rifle can nail the dots.
T1x (20 inch) .22lr from Brownell's ordered April 2018 ... received hum ... maybe Nov 2018 ?
DI 25 moa rail
Athlon Argos 6-24x scope
L&S mk4 steel medium (1.3) rings
Harris 6-9 bipod
Lapua center-x
First attempt to shoot the 1/4 dots.
Wind was ~10 mph 315 off bullet path.
Shot 30 dots with 30 rds.
Results below.
2019-03-16
1700-1800
40F
10 MPH NW
Goal: dots with Tikka T1a
Environment: Warm, muddy, but sunny and drying out a little prior to 4 days of rain forecast over the next week. Wind blowing 315 off the bullet path.
Equipment: Tikka T1a with Athlon Argos 6-24x. Lapua Center-X
Activity: This was the first bunch of the 1/4 dots at 25yds I've tried. Why am I at 25yds? Because I am also using this for day vermin rifle, specifically tree rats and want to be doubled zeroed at 25yds and around 70yds (haven't worked it out exactly, but it has been between 64yds and 71yds for the other .22lr with about 1 inch up at 50yds). The stoner .22lr(16) has the ODIN on it now and is repurposed as the night ratter.
I fired 3 mags of 10 rounds each from top to bottom, left to right. As you can see, I struggled with the top dot of each string. That must be a position issue. I see similar with my center fire dots. Struggle at the top of the target. Well I see this when prone, as I was today. Don't see that problem when shooting off tripod.
So 4 total misses (one of them is a "bare" tag, but I don't feel comfortable counting is as a tag, Then six tags and 20 center hits.
Summary/Results:
Well, that's not a "pass" .. need minimum of 27 center hits and it can be done. I was "straining" in some way for the tags, so by focusing on removing strain think I can get 27+ and that would be a pass. The goal is 30 center hits and I think that can be done as well.
Again, this was the first attempt on these 1/4 dots with the t1a, and the rifle and ammo did fine. And the scope can get the job done.
==
I did have about 5 weak ejects from round 15 thru 25 ... maybe it was me running the bolt weakly ? I'll try to pay more attention next time.
The chin weld is pretty weak as well, and I might need to try the bravo when it comes out.
But, I think the rifle can nail the dots.
I went out yesterday for the first time. CCI SV ammo, 50 yards, +2c with a bit of wind. 5 shot groups except for the one marked 10 shots. The black squares are 1/2" x 1/2".
T1X fits into the J Allen. Action is a bit tight but I got it seated and torqued. The action screws are going to require some additional shims to get it to cycle at 65inlbs. Mag ctach/release is easy to reach and mags drop/insert with ease. I will report back once I get the extra shims!
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I had the Tikka T1X out today playing with cards and matches at 50 yds.
Mark
Mark
What are you all finding they like ammo wise?
I'm seeing bulk ammo that is mostly under 3/4-1 inch at 50 but out at 100 it opens up quite a bit (sk+, blazer, Eley CMP, CCI, RWS Target). I realize much if not all of this is ammo related but I'm curious if anyone has tested much and had luck at 100.
I ordered some biathlon and am hoping to be closer to 1 MOA rather than 2-3 further than 50 yards.
I'm seeing bulk ammo that is mostly under 3/4-1 inch at 50 but out at 100 it opens up quite a bit (sk+, blazer, Eley CMP, CCI, RWS Target). I realize much if not all of this is ammo related but I'm curious if anyone has tested much and had luck at 100.
I ordered some biathlon and am hoping to be closer to 1 MOA rather than 2-3 further than 50 yards.
I have a good lot of Wolf Match Extra that will run 0.5 MOA out to 150yds. Wolf MT , SK Standard + and SK RM shoot great too. I wanting to try some different ammo. looking for the new SK long range.
Mark
I have a Neal Waltz sizing die too. From my testing it didn't help accuracy on CCI SV. Neal recommends using the die on Wolf ammo. A few of the CCIs I tested:
No time for it right now, as I have too many other rimfire projects, but I want to test the efficiency of hollow-points made from a Aguila 22 Interceptor which are 40 grain and rated at 1,470 FPS. It deformed the copper wash, but that shoun't have any negative effect. Left to right - CCI SV (unmodified), Aguila Interceptor (unmodified), Aguila Interceptor resized with an overly large hollow point:
No time for it right now, as I have too many other rimfire projects, but I want to test the efficiency of hollow-points made from a Aguila 22 Interceptor which are 40 grain and rated at 1,470 FPS. It deformed the copper wash, but that shoun't have any negative effect. Left to right - CCI SV (unmodified), Aguila Interceptor (unmodified), Aguila Interceptor resized with an overly large hollow point:
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A CCI SV taken to the extreme:
When you take it this far, it won't feed reliably from a magazine. But it's fine for my Thompson/Center Encore single shot or revolvers. I want to (eventually) make some gelatin blocks to see how the 22LR hollow-points behave.
When you take it this far, it won't feed reliably from a magazine. But it's fine for my Thompson/Center Encore single shot or revolvers. I want to (eventually) make some gelatin blocks to see how the 22LR hollow-points behave.
That one definitely looks good. This is where I'm at with the reformed ammo. I did the CCI Quiet for my Sako Quad with the intent of using that rifle specifically with quiet ammo. There were two reformed bullets with my die so I tried to get the flat top as close to the one sent as I could. This might be a tiny bit flatter.
I didn't go too crazy with the HP.
Flat top with the SV.
Less of a HP with these one's I'm testing.
Just for the heck of it I thought I would try a flat top HP combo.
I'll also be doing some tests with rim sorted ammo to see if there is a difference. It will most likely eliminate the flyers.
I didn't go too crazy with the HP.
Flat top with the SV.
Less of a HP with these one's I'm testing.
Just for the heck of it I thought I would try a flat top HP combo.
I'll also be doing some tests with rim sorted ammo to see if there is a difference. It will most likely eliminate the flyers.
