Tikka T1X

[Near miss]

@supra_medic13
I have 45moa(25rail, 20mount) on my rimfire because I calculated it was possible to zero at 50m and well below with my glass. I have no complaints of the view at 50m but I feel it gets better once I dial more. I can dial to 450yds with subsonics.

 

[Eoddave27]

You will have to be very careful about the height mount you buy or your scope will be way to high on your rifle. I’m using a set of medium Vortex tactical rings on my tikka with a scope with a 50mm objective in it is about perfect. I believe my mounts are 0.93 to center. I have a little over 1/8” between the bottom of the scope cap and objective.

 

[supra_medic13]

The Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 5-25 has roughly 70MOA of overall vertical travel or 20 MRAD (68.75 MOA) Specs Here

That means you will have roughly 35 MOA up and 35 MOA down. 40 MOA of rail angle is going to be too much to properly zero that scope at 50 yards.

With a 20 MOA rail and 0 MOA mount you will have roughly 15 MOA of down travel in the scope and 55 MOA up travel. You can now consult a 22lr standard velocity dope chart like this one to see how much 55 MOA of turret elevation will get you. Looks like that is roughly 300-325 yards. If that is enough for you and your goals with your 22lr then you are good to go. Beyond that you still have 36 MOA (or 10 MRAD) of hold overs you can use within the reticle. 55 MOA on turrets and roughly 35 MOA on reticle gets you roughly out to 425-450 yards. This isn't ideal but is possible.

If that isn't enough then you can sell your 20 MOA mount and pick up a Area 419 30 MOA mount. This will get you to 5 MOA down travel and 65 MOA up travel on your turrets. This puts your turret range to 350ish yards and turret+reticle MOA range to 450-475 yards.

Beyond that you will need to change out the scope. I know SWFA fixed power scopes have a massive turret travel that would be able to get you past 500 yards.

Another oddity is the ADM Recon mount is for an AR rifle. AR mounts are higher than bolt action mounts since the buttstock is in line with the barrel bore. This means your cheek is higher on the rifle and they compensate that by making the optics higher. If you put an AR scope mount on your Tikka you will be using a chin weld and not a cheek weld. You would need to add a cheek riser to your Tikka to be comfortable.

Thank you for this wealth of information! I think my my best bet right now is to keep the 20MOA rail on the T1X and go with a 0 MOA mount. As you said that gets me out to 300+yards on the turrets and then 400+ yards with the reticle. I believe that is more than far enough for the 22LR shooting I would ever do. This still allows me a good zero at 50yrds.

For my next longer distance rifle (thinking of a 700), correct me if I'm wrong, but get a 20-30 MOA rail to put on the rifle and then have the 0 MOA mount? Does this make sense? Is there a combination that will work for both this 22 and say a 6/6.5 out to a mile or am I just going to have to have to get different set ups to make it work?

Also these are the mount I'm looking at.

American Defense MFG, LLC | Browse | Category | Mounts | Opticmounts | Scopemounts | Bolt Action Rifle Scope Mounts

Intentionally Superior

www.americandefensemanufacturing.com

 

[Eoddave27]

The SL is the mount you will need and if the prices are all the same I would probably get a 20moa. Some of the matches I shoot go out to 400 yards which require me to dial all the way up and still use my reticle. I wouldn’t try to use the same mount for both rifles though. I will admit I’m not a fan of shared optics though.

I have a 20moa rail on my 6.5 and that is all I need. With a 6.5 you should be able to get out to 1000 yards with less than 10 mil which will be no problem. As for shooting reliably to 1 mile. I would look for a different caliber. I’m not saying a 6.5 can’t shoot to a mile. I know quite a few people who have done it but it but it is far from ideal for that.

 

[supra_medic13]

The SL is the mount you will need and if the prices are all the same I would probably get a 20moa. Some of the matches I shoot go out to 400 yards which require me to dial all the way up and still use my reticle. I wouldn’t try to use the same mount for both rifles though. I will admit I’m not a fan of shared optics though.

I have a 20moa rail on my 6.5 and that is all I need. With a 6.5 you should be able to get out to 1000 yards with less than 10 mil which will be no problem. As for shooting reliably to 1 mile. I would look for a different caliber. I’m not saying a 6.5 can’t shoot to a mile. I know quite a few people who have done it but it but it is far from ideal for that.

1) You're suggesting 20MOA rail & 20MOA optic mount (for a total of 40MOA)?
2) So you would recommend getting the 20MOA mount to go with the 20MOA rail for longer range shooting (out to a mile) or just 20MOA total?
3) What suggestion of caliber would YOU recommend?

 

[Near miss]

Thank you for this wealth of information! I think my my best bet right now is to keep the 20MOA rail on the T1X and go with a 0 MOA mount. As you said that gets me out to 300+yards on the turrets and then 400+ yards with the reticle. I believe that is more than far enough for the 22LR shooting I would ever do. This still allows me a good zero at 50yrds.

For my next longer distance rifle (thinking of a 700), correct me if I'm wrong, but get a 20-30 MOA rail to put on the rifle and then have the 0 MOA mount? Does this make sense? Is there a combination that will work for both this 22 and say a 6/6.5 out to a mile or am I just going to have to have to get different set ups to make it work?

Also these are the mount I'm looking at.

American Defense MFG, LLC | Browse | Category | Mounts | Opticmounts | Scopemounts | Bolt Action Rifle Scope Mounts

Intentionally Superior

www.americandefensemanufacturing.com

I hope JSchell will come to give his bit but I am going to bite into this.

-It looks like you need more turns in the elevation knob or use the reticle for the last few 2-5mils. depending on load.

Here comes the 6.5 CM heavy load:
Scope height 2.12"
Cartridge: 147gr. ELD Match (Hornady)
MV: 821m/s 2693fps
0.697 (G1 model and 1610m (1mile) is under transsonic so it might not be 100% accurate, blame Hornady)

-> You *probably* need 22-25mil (82-89moa) depending on load to get 6.5cm DIALED to a mile.

So in order to get 100 zero you are going to run close with the 20moa added as those add to one way only. The rails and mounts give nice cant but without good elevation range you won't be able to near zero.

Does it matter so much that you need to hold UP like 4mils at the 100m range? Dunno.

I do need help with this.

 

[johnkmcguire97]

I decided to take matters into my own hands to get a heavy 16” barrel. This is my T1x in an MDT LS XL T3 chassis. The barrel is a SS FJ Feddersen 16.1” threaded barrel for a 10-22. I had to turn down and lengthen the tenon to match the Tikka barrel. I have not put any rounds through it yet. That is on the agenda for this weekend.

 

[johnkmcguire97]

Stock barrel removed

 

[johnkmcguire97]

Stripped action bottom view

 

[johnkmcguire97]

Looking into the front of the receiver upside down.

 

[Frankr]

View attachment 7074026
Looking into the front of the receiver upside down.

You sir are my hero.

What chamber?

 

[johnkmcguire97]

You sir are my hero.

What chamber?

I believe Feddersen uses a Bentz 22lr chamber

 

[Frankr]

I believe Feddersen uses a Bentz 22lr chamber

Hold on a second.... you didn’t have to re-do the chamber?

Just lengthen the shank size?........ how long of a shank is needed?

Could this be done with a Kidd LW or ULW barrel?

 

[johnkmcguire97]

Should work with any 10-22 barrel except the takedown version. I will have to go back to my notes to see how much I took off. I will provide more info when I get a chance. I did not touch the chamber, just reset head spacing to 0.042 with a feeler gage.

 

[Eoddave27]

Should work with any 10-22 barrel except the takedown version. I will have to go back to my notes to see how much I took off. I will provide more info when I get a chance. I did not touch the chamber, just reset head spacing to 0.042 with a feeler gage.

Wouldn’t it be simpler to cut down the factory barrel? Mine is just as accurate as any after market barrel I have tried.

 

[Eoddave27]

1) You're suggesting 20MOA rail & 20MOA optic mount (for a total of 40MOA)?
2) So you would recommend getting the 20MOA mount to go with the 20MOA rail for longer range shooting (out to a mile) or just 20MOA total?
3) What suggestion of caliber would YOU recommend?

I currently have a 20 MOA rail on my T1X and it will get me to just shy of 300 yards. I plan to buy a set or the Burris XTR rings eventually which will give me another 20 MOA.

For the creedmoor honestly if you want to shoot accurately to 1 mile I would invest in another rifle. It just isn’t the right tool for the job. 6.5 creedmoor is a very capable round but beyond 1300-1400 yards it will have gone transonic and have very erratic impact points. Now if you plan to shoot the Creedmoor inside it’s effective range a 20 MOA rail should be all you need.

 

[johnkmcguire97]

Wouldn’t it be simpler to cut down the factory barrel? Mine is just as accurate as any after market barrel I have tried.

It definitely would have been easier to just shorten the factory barrel. The factory barrel is excellent. I actually wanted the heavier profile as well. I know that a 22 does not really heat up a barrel. But I like the look and don’t mind the extra weight for how I will use it.

Mostly I just wanted to see if it could be done.

 

[JSchell1309]

You will have to be very careful about the height mount you buy or your scope will be way to high on your rifle. I’m using a set of medium Vortex tactical rings on my tikka with a scope with a 50mm objective in it is about perfect. I believe my mounts are 0.93 to center. I have a little over 1/8” between the bottom of the scope cap and objective.

Excellent info and photos. I'll add another data point to this for ring heights and objective clearance.

Area 419 30 MOA rail
ARC M10 X-low Rings at 0.79" high
Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50

This setup gives me a gnats ass gap between the objective and the barrel. The stock bikinni cover does not fit. Also, even at this low of a height, I will still need to add a cheek riser to get a good relaxed cheek weld in prone and seated positions. Since I already need to add a cheek riser, I plan on swapping the rings to their "Low" height of 0.94" to gain clearance and ability to add a scope cover.

Fit and finish on the Area419 rail is excellent. It's base is relieved to fit over top the dovetail and does not slip into the dovetail at all. It references the receiver flats on either side of the dovetail grooves. Very nice rail and would highly recommend it. 419 makes good stuff.

Finally if anyone is wanting to try out the factory Tikka "vertical grip" they are $15 on beretta's website Link Here. I added it to an order of 2 additional factory mags and with the grip and 15% off code (BUSA13) it was $70 shipped after tax. If i just wanted the two mags it was $68 since it charged shipping if under $75. It was worth the $2 to try it out. Much more comfortable in the prone position.

Below photo is me holding the factory grip overtop of the already installed "vertical" grip so you can see how much it adds.

Edit: damn website BB code kills my images all the time. Manually added them back.

 

[pazzo]

@johnkmcguire97 what is the diameter of that barrel? What brand/height rings??

 

[JSchell1309]

Thank you for this wealth of information! I think my my best bet right now is to keep the 20MOA rail on the T1X and go with a 0 MOA mount. As you said that gets me out to 300+yards on the turrets and then 400+ yards with the reticle. I believe that is more than far enough for the 22LR shooting I would ever do. This still allows me a good zero at 50yrds.


For my next longer distance rifle (thinking of a 700), correct me if I'm wrong, but get a 20-30 MOA rail to put on the rifle and then have the 0 MOA mount? Does this make sense? Is there a combination that will work for both this 22 and say a 6/6.5 out to a mile or am I just going to have to have to get different set ups to make it work?


Also these are the mount I'm looking at.

@supra_medic13

I agree, I think the best bet is to keep the 20 MOA rail and choose rings/ a mount that are 0 MOA for the Tikka 22lr and the Viper PST Gen 2 that you have.

Personally, I agree with Eoddave27 that I do not like sharing optics between rifles. especially those of different calibers. When you swap them back and forth you will not have the same POI and will have to re-zero the optic each time. This isn't a major deal for some, but with 2 little kids at home I have a limited time available to shoot. I don't want to spend that time and ammo swapping scopes and re-zeroing each time I want to take a certain rifle out.

I agree that the ADM SL mount is better than the "recon" AR mount I was originally thinking. I just saw you said ADM Recon and remember their mount I had on my AR. That said, I am also not a fan of QD mounts for precision rifles. I still have an LPVO and red dots in QD mounts for ARs, but those are really 2-3 MOA or "Minute of Man" rifles and not 0.5-1 MOA guns. Almost all QD mounts are not perfect return to zero when tested with a precision rifle. I have tried ADM, Larue, and Bobro mounts. I will continue to use them, just not on precision platforms. Regardless, with my post above, no matter what mount height you go with, you will most likely need a cheek riser on the OEM stock with the 50mm objective of our PST scopes.

Next is you are looking into Remington 700 for your centerfire. You will see tons of data out there on them, however their quality has really dropped since 2007 when Remington was bought out by Freedom Group. If you are wanting a good companion to your T1X I would consider a Tikka T3X rifle. This will allow the T1X 22lr to act as a trainer so you can keep the same ergos, trigger, and bolt feel between your centerfire and 22lr rifles.

If you still want a R700 footprint rifle then Bergara are highly recommended and well reviewed. You can also go down the path of custom actions (ARC, Bighorn, etc.) and do a "RemAge" barrel on it. This is a Remington 700 pattern barrel but can use a barrel nut system like a Savage. This allows you to swap your own barrels in your house with minimal tools required.

Do you actually have access to an area where you can shoot a rifle a mile? I only ask since I am limited locally to 600 yards on private property and 1000 yards at rifle clubs/matches. We don't have state land where we can freely shoot long distances.

I will again completely agree with Eoddave27 in his below quoted posts. I have a 6.5 creedmoor with a 20 MOA rail and 0 MOA rings and the same PST Gen 2 5-25x50 scope. This combination is perfect for my 600-1000 yard use cases and I do not need additional elevation with this setup.

Lets again consult a dope chart for a 6.5 Creedmoor load and see what this means for MOA and our scope. The below table was created in Applied Ballistics using a current handload I am still needing to refine. The details are:

26" Criterion 6.5 Creedmoor barrel
147 gr Hornady ELD-M bullet using AB custom drag curve (more accurate than G1 or G7 numbers)
40.5 gr H4350 powder
Averages 2650 fps muzzle velocity with a Magnetospeed

Note:
Sound barrier is 1125 fps at typical conditions at sea level
1 mile is 1760 yards

We know the PST Gen 2 5-25 has 70 MOA of total travel, split to 35 up and 35 down. I have a 20 MOA rail which estimates I now have 55 MOA of turret travel.

The below chart you can see my load crosses the sound barrier at roughly 1200 yards and this requires 45.8 MOA of scope travel. So up to the soundbarrier, my setup has enough elevation in it that I can adjust 100% with my turrets.

Out to a mile I need roughly 96-109 MOA of travel and the round is traveling between 877-846 fps. This is not ideal as now at 1 mile the round has slowed down back through the sound barrier. This has the capability of destabilizing the round and it is much more difficult to calcualte the ballistics of where that round will impact.

To sum that up: Eoddave27 is correct. 6.5 Creedmoor excels in the 1300-1400 yard range with 120-140gr projectiles before it hits the sonic barrier. If you want to push past a mile you will need to look at a different cartridge. If you are ok playing in the range up to 1300-1400 yards then the 6.5 creedmoor is an excellent round and you will not need more than 20 MOA total of cant on a mount with your scope.

If the image doesn't show up, its at below link.



Link Here

The SL is the mount you will need and if the prices are all the same I would probably get a 20moa. Some of the matches I shoot go out to 400 yards which require me to dial all the way up and still use my reticle. I wouldn’t try to use the same mount for both rifles though. I will admit I’m not a fan of shared optics though.

I have a 20moa rail on my 6.5 and that is all I need. With a 6.5 you should be able to get out to 1000 yards with less than 10 mil which will be no problem. As for shooting reliably to 1 mile. I would look for a different caliber. I’m not saying a 6.5 can’t shoot to a mile. I know quite a few people who have done it but it but it is far from ideal for that.

I currently have a 20 MOA rail on my T1X and it will get me to just shy of 300 yards. I plan to buy a set or the Burris XTR rings eventually which will give me another 20 MOA.

For the creedmoor honestly if you want to shoot accurately to 1 mile I would invest in another rifle. It just isn’t the right tool for the job. 6.5 creedmoor is a very capable round but beyond 1300-1400 yards it will have gone transonic and have very erratic impact points. Now if you plan to shoot the Creedmoor inside it’s effective range a 20 MOA rail should be all you need.

Quoted for truth with the above statements.

 

[Eoddave27]

Very well put JSchell and much more comprehensive than my posts. I will add that anytime a bullet goes transonic your point of impact typically gets crazy. A friend and I were both shooting a 308 at 1000 yards. My rifle had a 26” barrel and his had a 20” barrel. Both rifle were dead on at 900 yards. Once we stretched out to 1000 though he couldn’t hit anything with his and mine was still shooting great. We looked at his dope and between 900 and 1000 yards his bullets were going transonic. He was shooting a factory load that wasn’t very hot to start with. That coupled with the shorter barrel just wouldn’t get there.

I will also reiterate what JSchell said about switching scopes. Every time you switch scopes you will need to zero your rifle. You may be able to get it close but that isn’t good enough for a precision rifle. That is time consuming and can get pretty expensive with a 6.5 creedmoor. The 22 will be cheaper but if you plan to use it for NRL22 it needs to be dead on. Think hitting a 1/4” KYL target at 50 yards. My Tikka will do it almost evey time as long as I’m doing my job right. Heck, just waiting for the range to go cold so you can put up a target for zeroing can take a long time. If you have two kids like I do the range time is really more valuable to me than the extra optic in the long run. I would seriously consider buying another scope. Athlon has quite a few optics that are perfect for a rimfire and pretty budget friendly. The Midas TAC and the Argos BTR are two I would take a good look at that are a lot of optic for the money. Personally I think the glass on the Midas TAC is as good and the Viper PST. If there is any difference it is marginal. It doesn’t have illumination but I actually prefer the turrets on my Midas Tac verses the Gen 2 PST I have. I have two of them and if you give Doug at Cameraland a call he will can give you the Snipers Hide price which makes it even more attractive.

 

[johnkmcguire97]

@johnkmcguire97 what is the diameter of that barrel? What brand/height rings??

The barrel diameter is 0.92” and the rings are UTG Pro low 30mm rings. They list the height as 25 mm (0.98”). With a 50mm objective lense, I still have 0.140 between the scope and the barrel. My top tail is a DIP 25 MOA.

 

[johnkmcguire97]

0.140” clearance between the bell and barrel

 

[pazzo]

@johnkmcguire97

Thanks a lot!

 

[JSchell1309]

I decided to take matters into my own hands to get a heavy 16” barrel. This is my T1x in an MDT LS XL T3 chassis. The barrel is a SS FJ Feddersen 16.1” threaded barrel for a 10-22. I had to turn down and lengthen the tenon to match the Tikka barrel. I have not put any rounds through it yet. That is on the agenda for this weekend.

Should work with any 10-22 barrel except the takedown version. I will have to go back to my notes to see how much I took off. I will provide more info when I get a chance. I did not touch the chamber, just reset head spacing to 0.042 with a feeler gage.

@johnkmcguire97, Thanks for posting photos of the stock barrel removed. I was wondering if the 3 set screws just press against the barrel. Looks like no dimple or anything further than just friction.

I only have experience re-barreling Savages and using go/no-go gauges to set head space. How is headspace set on these 22 rifles?

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Glad to see lots of love for the Tikka T1x. I'm a huge T1x fan and think everyone should own at least one. Her is my two and the kind of groups I'm getting.

 

[johnkmcguire97]

@johnkmcguire97, Thanks for posting videos of the stock barrel removed. I was wondering if the 3 set screws just press against the barrel. Looks like no dimple or anything further than just friction.

I only have experience re-barreling Savages and using go/no-go gauges to set head space. How is headspace set on these 22 rifles?

There is not a flat feature or dimples on the factory barrel for the set screws. The tenon of the barrel is simply round. The set screws in my rifle had high temp loctite on them. You will have to heat them up to get them out.

I am no expert, but I found several sources that described the procedure for setting headspace on a 22LR with feeler gages. I chose to use Loctite 620 to bond the barrel in place. This seems to be common practice with bench rest shooters. So here are the basic steps I used:

1. Clean the barrel and receiver with acetone
2. Heat the action in the oven to 200F. I did this because I had a light press fit between the barrel and the action. Heating the action allowed the barrel to slip in with clearance.
3. Butter up the barrel tenon and the inside of the receiver with a high temp retaining compound like Loctite 620
4. Slide the barrel into the action
5. Install the farthest forward set screw and tighten it just enough that it contacts the barrel. At this point I could still move the barrel but it was snug.
6. Insert a feeler gage from the bottom of the action between the bolt face and the back of the barrel and close the bolt. I set the headspace to 0.042”. From what I could find this seems to be the sweet spot. When you close the bolt on the feeler gage, it should push the barrel forward to its final position. That is why the set screw must be just tight enough to put pressure on the barrel, but not lock it down yet.
7. Make sure the extractor clears the extractor cut in the barrel
8. Tighten the set screws and let the loctite cure.

Actually, when I cut the tenon on the barrel, I did my best to duplicate the length of the factory tenon exactly. When I inserted the barrel and slid it all the way in so the shoulder of the barrel contacted the action, the headspace was spot on at 0.042”. Not sure if that was by coincident or if Tikka is controlling the barrel tolerances and the action tolerances enough to actually set headspace. If I had known that, I would have cut the tenon about 0.005” longer so I would have a little more room to shorten the headspace if I wanted to.

 

[Prebanpaul]

@johnkmcguire97 FIrst thank you!!!!!! Secondly, you made my point, I can't wait to tear the barrel off my Tikka. It shoots great. It's not heavy. I shoot an 18in JF barrel on a custom 10-22 and honestly, it shoots better than my Tikka. I would love to take one of their barrels and make a heavy barrel. Showing this should open up at Least shaw and green mountain to making barrels pretty quick. That thining looks awesome. Great job. How much your charging a barrel

 

[McReef]

Edit: I somehow missed @guns_not_groceries mod post, I guess this is an alternate method for those who like options...

I am not a patient man. When I got the email saying my T1X was on its way to my ffl, there was no way I was waiting for KRG to get another batch in. I ordered up the T3X version, I’d figure something out.

Sat down last night and worked out the plan. Spent an hour or so total today and got it done. Pretty simple if you have access to some tools or are the industrious type...

I widened the slot at the bottom of the chassis’ “saddle” to .470 wide, and cut it .080 deeper. I then cut a 100’ countersink to 3/8 diameter to accommodate a flat head screw for attaching the KRG trigger guard...

I removed and discarded the screw and washer from the tikka that holds the magwell in place. By cutting the chassis to the above dimensions, when you mount the tikka to the KRG the magwell becomes a captive assembly. There is not really an easy way to get a pic of this, but if you had the parts in front of you it would be evident what I am talking about.

All that I had to do after this, was to remove the KRG mag release, and shave off the 2 “rails” on the front of the trigger guard to allow the mag to seat. This material shaves away easily with a sharp utility knife. You need to cut the 2 narrow rails flush down to the top of the magwell. I think these couple pics do a decent job of illustrating this.

In the first image I have started shaving the right hand rail. The second image shows it done...

I’ll try and get a couple of shots of her all put together tomorrow, but I’m done for today. Everything fits nice and tight and functions as it should. As long as you take your time to get that first cut done right, everything should go smooth.

 

[Prebanpaul]

Can someone do me a favor and drop your t3x in your t1x stock and see if it will fit in the KRG.

 

[pazzo]

Can someone do me a favor and drop your t3x in your t1x stock and see if it will fit in the KRG.

The T3x bolt release pin hits the T1x Bravo chassis. I tried it with mine.

Here, see post 1152: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t1x.6841183/page-24
And 1119: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t1x.6841183/page-23

Not sure if this answers your question or not. I didn’t explore the swap further myself as my T3x is already setup with its own stock, so no need to swap.

 

[Eoddave27]

Got out to the range again today and did a little ammo testing now that I have 500 rounds through the rifle. Pretty much everything I shot was shooting well at 50 yards. When I stretched it out to 100 I could see where the quality ammo really made a difference though. I have a 100yd KYL rack that goes from 2” down to 1/2”. With the Eley Edge and Lapua Center X I could hit the 1/2” target at least 6 out of 10 and most of the other shots were close enough to make it move. Here are some of my 50yd targets from testing. These are pretty representative of all my groups and I just pulled a few of the targets randomly for photos. These are all 10 shot groups. I’m ordering a case of the Center X that shot so well. I had a few groups that were actually smaller but I couldn’t get the pasties to come off in one piece.


Edit. I was thinking about these groups sizes and they just didn’t make and sense to me. They seemed wa too small. I checked my caliper and it wasn’t zeroed at .22 like I though it was. Somehow it managed to end up zeroed at .45. I’ll go back and remeasure all these today. If you add another .23 to the grope size that should be it though which makes a little more sense. It’s driving me nuts so I will remeasure the groups and post a new photo shortly.

Okay guys. Here are the accurate measurements. Still nothing to sneeze at. The more I shoot this rifle the better. I will say this. I’m confident I can clean the KYL rack at 50 yards now 9 out of 10 times. Especially with the center X.

 

[Precisiondada]

Getting the bolt back together is a bitch. Anyone have any tricks for getting everything depressed all the way and the pin through the shroud?

 

[McReef]

View attachment 7073727View attachment 7073728

Liking that color combo. Looks sharp.

 

[McReef]

Shot of her in her natural habitat. I’m thinking the sunshade is a bit much, may have to nix that. I clearly need some lower rings as well, messed up my guesstimate on that one...

Performance wise, the jury is still out. Had some real tight groups, then I had some random fliers mixed in that would be out 1 - 1 1/2” (@ 50) Thinking it’s probably the CCI SV that’s the issue. I’ll order up some good food for her and see how she likes that...

 

[nockhunter]

Excellent info and photos. I'll add another data point to this for ring heights and objective clearance.

Area 419 30 MOA rail
ARC M10 X-low Rings at 0.79" high
Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50

This setup gives me a gnats ass gap between the objective and the barrel. The stock bikinni cover does not fit. Also, even at this low of a height, I will still need to add a cheek riser to get a good relaxed cheek weld in prone and seated positions. Since I already need to add a cheek riser, I plan on swapping the rings to their "Low" height of 0.94" to gain clearance and ability to add a scope cover.

Fit and finish on the Area419 rail is excellent. It's base is relieved to fit over top the dovetail and does not slip into the dovetail at all. It references the receiver flats on either side of the dovetail grooves. Very nice rail and would highly recommend it. 419 makes good stuff.

Finally if anyone is wanting to try out the factory Tikka "vertical grip" they are $15 on beretta's website Link Here. I added it to an order of 2 additional factory mags and with the grip and 15% off code (BUSA13) it was $70 shipped after tax. If i just wanted the two mags it was $68 since it charged shipping if under $75. It was worth the $2 to try it out. Much more comfortable in the prone position.

Below photo is me holding the factory grip overtop of the already installed "vertical" grip so you can see how much it adds.

Edit: damn website BB code kills my images all the time. Manually added them back.

Thanks for the heads up, I just ordered the same thing. 2 mags and a grip.

Mike

 

[Dave338458]

Just bought a T1 yesterday , total waste of money , best group is "2 at 50 yards , used 3different brands of ammo ,. From bipod , bag , silencer on /off, etc , checked every bolt and screw , swapped scopes , still same results , get a couple of shots touching then fliers "2 away ! It's behaving like something is loose , but I've double checked every thing , very disappointed

 

[Eoddave27]

Some

Just bought a T1 yesterday , total waste of money , best group is "2 at 50 yards , used 3different brands of ammo ,. From bipod , bag , silencer on /off, etc , checked every bolt and screw , swapped scopes , still same results , get a couple of shots touching then fliers "2 away ! It's behaving like something is loose , but I've double checked every thing , very disappointed

Something is obviously wrong with your rifle. A friend of mine had one that was doing the same thing after he put it in a KRG chassis. As soon as I looked at his rifle I knew something wasn’t right. I flipped it upside down in my vise. As soon as I loosened the front action screw the stock dropped about 1/4”. Somehow something was bound and it wasn’t visible. The only way I knew there was a problem was I had the same stock and he had way too much space between the barrel and stock. I think I would try taking it completely out of the stock and reinstalling it and see if something was out of wack from assembly. If all else fails call Tikka and they will fix it.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Dave,

Your receiver may not be seated in the recoil lug correctly. I would recommend removing the plastic gap filler "if it's still in" and re-seating the action. When setting the receiver in, don't push it back towards the butt stock, this is probably causing your issue. This comes from first hand experience. I would also recommend 20 in/lbs on both action screws. You should be getting results like this...

I have three T1x's, one 17HMR and two 22LR. Top photos are groups shot with both of my 22's in different configurations. Below is a target shot with my 17 HMR, all are 10-shot groups with eight different ammo's. Tikka's will shoot.

 

[Dave338458]

Hi guys , cheers for the advice ,, I've used a torque driver to set stock screws , had action out , looks to be seated correctly , , tried with out the barrel block too , but magazine would not click in , used two different scopes,just in case that was faulty , but keep getting same results, out of five shots , one hits the bull the rest are in a 2" spread , think I've got the lemon , will try to return it tomorrow

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Hi guys , cheers for the advice ,, I've used a torque driver to set stock screws , had action out , looks to be seated correctly , , tried with out the barrel block too , but magazine would not click in , used two different scopes,just in case that was faulty , but keep getting same results, out of five shots , one hits the bull the rest are in a 2" spread , think I've got the lemon , will try to return it tomorrow

Is it possible for you to take a photo of the barrel/stock gap at the muzzle end?

 

[Dave338458]

you

 

[Kisssofdeath]

That's in the correct position. Only thing I could recommend is contacting Beretta. You are the first person that I know of that hasn't been happy with their T1x.

 

[azaex]

throwing in my 2c on rail/mounts

I'm playing around with it a bit, have a 0 moa rail on both my T1x and T3x. 40 MOA mount (AD-RECON-S 40 MOA). Tract Toric FFP with 20 MRAD of adjustment. My T1x will not fully zero at 25 yards (and it definitely won't at 50). At 25 yards I hold 0.5 MIL low.
Seems that a 15 MOA rail from Area 419 and a 20 MOA mount would achieve 25 yard zero easily, barely at 50 yards.

I'm QD for now for a few reasons, eventually I'll swap things around and get a proper scope on the T1x though that does achieve zero.

 

[barsik]

Getting the bolt back together is a bitch. Anyone have any tricks for getting everything depressed all the way and the pin through the shroud?

take a bit of time to inspect the extractor. the extractor pin was too tight on mine, it was actually binding inside the extractor and it interfered with the rifle's ability to chamber a round smoothly. I also took the time to put a bit of a radius in the extractor where the rounds sliding up the boltface would have an easier time getting into battery.
getting the bolt back together is a bit of a trick. Tikka put quite a heavy firing pin spring in the rifle, and it must be compressed in order to reinstall the retaining pin. I ended up putting an old sneaker in my lap, using it as a pad so I had something to compress against without damaging the breech end of the bolt. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE COCKING INDICATOR AND BOLT SHROUD. best if you have another pair of hands to start the pin and tap it into place while you are compressing the bolt.

 

[Prebanpaul]

@Dave338458 I am willing to bet your ammo is not matched grade and is moving in the 1200fps range. It likes basically standard velocity ammo. Go get CCI standard velocity.

I am willing to be if you honestly say what your shooting is all over 1200fps. It has a 1-16.5 barrel twist. Slow is the way to go.

 

[LEROYRECCE]

Anyone know a good online retailer that has them in stock? 22LR.

 

[Redshako]

View attachment 7074017
I decided to take matters into my own hands to get a heavy 16” barrel. This is my T1x in an MDT LS XL T3 chassis. The barrel is a SS FJ Feddersen 16.1” threaded barrel for a 10-22. I had to turn down and lengthen the tenon to match the Tikka barrel. I have not put any rounds through it yet. That is on the agenda for this weekend.

Very Nice! I love the FJ Feddersen Barrel that I have on my 10/22. If anyone from FJ is following the thread, please offer this configuration for the T1x for those of us that don't have lathes...

 

[billmeek]

used 3different brands of ammo

What ammo?

 

[billmeek]

If anyone from FJ is following the thread, please offer this configuration for the T1x for those of us that don't have lathes...

I sent an email to Fred Feddersen with a link to this thread and suggested he consider making barrels for the T1X. Considering the issues he had with fitment on the CZ rifles, I don't know if he'll be interested in building a new 22LR line.