Lovely rifle, parts from all over the world. What barrel is fitted? length cal? Happy with the stock?
edi
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
edi
Just went and looked at my old T1x stock and does not appear to have an aluminum bedding block.
I have a stock with a bedding block “stuck” in it. Will it interfere with the T1x action?
Are you referring to the recoil lug? small piece of aluminum just in front of front action screw?
Great observation 0dd.
@Frankr
The recoil lug is typically fitted in the chassis. For example, the aftermarket chassis I bought for my T1x came with the recoil lug installed. That's very common with Tikka stocks. If the stock you're looking at is for a T3x it will fit the T1x. The T1x action has the same footprint as the T3x so the recoil lug will be in the same position.
Got to the range again today. I just hit the 500 round mark on my rifle and cracked into a new lot of Eley Edge ammo. Holy crap that rifle could shoot with that ammo. I didn’t get any photos of groups but I was hitting a 1” spinner 10 for 10 at 150 yards. It seems to me that around the 400-500 round mark is a magic number for these rifles.
I would agree, I think I'm in that neighborhood and the rifle just seems to shoot better and better every time I take it out. I'm holding close to 1/2 moa at 100 from the bench or prone. This little Tikka shoots!
Yep, that is what I am seeing. As long as the ammo velocity is fairly consistant it is 1/2-3/4 MOA at 100 yards. Given the relatively small amount of money I have in this rifle I am very pleased with it. I had planned to save up an buy a Vudoo. After my last trip to the range I think I may put that money towards something else. I just can’t see a Vudoo performing that much better than what I have. Especially when you look at the cost difference.
My family and I do a lot of competitive shooting ... Mainly 3gun right now. We are looking to get into the local 22 PRS style matches for next year (so I have plenty of time to dial things in).
After much research and debate, I ordered a T1x from Whittaker's the other day and am now looking into the rest of the items we will need. The other option was the Ruger Precision fwiw ...
So I have the gun coming, 2 more mags, and the vertical grip. I might grab that beavertail forearm too but this is all a temporary situation until I decide on a better option. Leaning towards that Oryx once it's available.
For glass, Im pretty set on a PST Gen2 3-15 as I think that may be a better choice than the 5-25 especially with closer targets. Love to hear your thoughts on that ...
Now to mount it. Do I need a 20+ moa mounting option which forces me into an add on pic rail? If so, Contessa, DIP, EGW - any real differences or why I should seriously consider one over the other?
Then if I need to get pic rail rings or 11mm(?) Rings for the factory dovetail, can you point me towards some decent options. Don't need quick disconnect or anything like that. I have next to no experience with rings as all we have ever used are 1 piece cantilever mounts!
Then of course I'll mess with the small parts - possibly a trigger spring or even the Timney, new bolt handles when they are available ...
And here is another question since this would also be our first bolt gun (except for the mosins but that's a little different) ... I'm seeing that there is a lightweight bolt shroud coming. What is the benefit to such a part?
Thanks!
After much research and debate, I ordered a T1x from Whittaker's the other day and am now looking into the rest of the items we will need. The other option was the Ruger Precision fwiw ...
So I have the gun coming, 2 more mags, and the vertical grip. I might grab that beavertail forearm too but this is all a temporary situation until I decide on a better option. Leaning towards that Oryx once it's available.
For glass, Im pretty set on a PST Gen2 3-15 as I think that may be a better choice than the 5-25 especially with closer targets. Love to hear your thoughts on that ...
Now to mount it. Do I need a 20+ moa mounting option which forces me into an add on pic rail? If so, Contessa, DIP, EGW - any real differences or why I should seriously consider one over the other?
Then if I need to get pic rail rings or 11mm(?) Rings for the factory dovetail, can you point me towards some decent options. Don't need quick disconnect or anything like that. I have next to no experience with rings as all we have ever used are 1 piece cantilever mounts!
Then of course I'll mess with the small parts - possibly a trigger spring or even the Timney, new bolt handles when they are available ...
And here is another question since this would also be our first bolt gun (except for the mosins but that's a little different) ... I'm seeing that there is a lightweight bolt shroud coming. What is the benefit to such a part?
Thanks!
Anyone else noticing occasional super tight/binding bolt lift? My bolt does not cycle constantly. Super stiff and feels like metal galling every few cycles. Any help appreciated
You shouldn’t need anything additional for the trigger. I was able to get mine to 1 1/2 lbs with the stock trigger. It is a fantastic trigger especially for a stock trigger. For the Picatinny rail tri Dip. They have a. 25 MOA rail. You will definitely need that for NRL matches to get the elevation you need. I would also really consider getting a KRG Bravo or similar stock. If you are shooting matches with the rifle the ability to add accessories and the added weight will be huge. The very first thing I did was toss the factory Tupperware stock.
My rifle shoots absolutely amazing. It shot well from the beginning but after about 400-500 rounds it almost transformed to a different rifle. I went from barely MOA at 100 yards to shooting 1” groups at 150 yards. It does this with both Eley Edge and Wolf ME.
For dip rail, please note, it is not a full Picatinny rail. It is solid in the middle. I had to cut a slot so I can mount my ADM mount. Other than that, I like the design of dip rail.
Back about 4 or 5 pages....another member was complaining about the same issues. Or use the search functiona and restrict it to just this thread
One of the cross pins was proud. Getting that flush helped a little.
Also the bolt stop is dragging. If I manipulate the bolt with the bolt stop held open it feels like my T3x. I can see wear from the bolt stop. It wasn't obvious because it is along the edge of the bolt where it is milled.
I am not sure how I mitigate the bolt stop drag. Since the stop is under pressure from the spring, I don't think polishing it will help.
Also the bolt stop is dragging. If I manipulate the bolt with the bolt stop held open it feels like my T3x. I can see wear from the bolt stop. It wasn't obvious because it is along the edge of the bolt where it is milled.
I am not sure how I mitigate the bolt stop drag. Since the stop is under pressure from the spring, I don't think polishing it will help.
are you also getting really stiff cycling of the bolt, particularly lifting up from when it is closed? that specific action of lifting the bolt is sometimes smooth, sometimes very stiff and dragging/galling on something. could the roll pin be responsible?
(new member here, just got a T1x a few weeks ago and currently own a T3x).
Try unbolting the magwell from the action and seeing if there are any burrs on the part that the bolt slides over. A lot of portions of the left side of mine (i.e. around the ejector spring) had a raised edge I could feel with my fingers; the right side was fine. I filed those down flush and it cleaned up the bolt feel a bunch. Not as smooth as a T3x mind you, but a good improvement over how it felt out of the box.
Try unbolting the magwell from the action and seeing if there are any burrs on the part that the bolt slides over. A lot of portions of the left side of mine (i.e. around the ejector spring) had a raised edge I could feel with my fingers; the right side was fine. I filed those down flush and it cleaned up the bolt feel a bunch. Not as smooth as a T3x mind you, but a good improvement over how it felt out of the box.
I'm a new shooter.... T1x is in the mail as we speak. Have you been cleaning the barrel at any point during these first 500 rounds? Or just the initial clean and fire away? Just clean it once the accuracy starts to fall off?
I cleaned it before I shot it the first time. After that I just pull a bore snake through it after every range session and that has been it. I just keep the bolt clean and lubricated and that is about it.
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I put maybe a box or 2 through the gun, then cleaned real well, but haven't cleaned since. I've run about 800more through it and the accuracy seems to get better every time out. I use Lapua Polar only, so as to not get different bullet lube buildup in the leade or barrel.
Using a bore snake is a dry clean, isn't it? I have an Otis cleaning system for my T1x. I'm not sure how often to use it? Sorry for the ridiculous questions, guys.
I normally put some bore solvent on the brushes. After I pull the snake through twice I apply some gun oil to the very end of the snake to leave a light coat of oil down the barrel. The one exception is before a match. It usually takes 5-6 shots to get the gun shooting right after this. The day prior to a match I go out and confirm zero and shoot about 20 rounds. I then oil the bolt and put the gun in the case for the match. The NRL matches I shoot are usually very tight for the top spots. I really don’t want to screw myself out of a good finish because my first 5 shots out of an oily barrel go wild.
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Anyone know what XLR chassis works best on the t1x? I have the carbon chassis on my 300wm and bought their buttstock for my ar15 in 204 ruger....my coyote getter!
I'd love to keep the cheek weld and adjustability the same on all my rifles. The KRG bravo looks perfect but I cant pass up on a chance to keep consistency across several rifles.
I'd love to keep the cheek weld and adjustability the same on all my rifles. The KRG bravo looks perfect but I cant pass up on a chance to keep consistency across several rifles.
So here is a Butt Bad extension that was made by @Boltman82 . This thing was really well made. I used a razor knife and cut the lip off the Butt pad and then cut the Screw pylons flush. The total amount of work, 1-2 minutes. I used a wire saw blade to cut the pylons. I then screwed it together. Add some weight and some length. All plusses for me.
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Got the call today that our T1x was in ... Mags a vertical grip showed up yesterday.
While I wait for my 25moa DIP rail I've been looking for rings and still debating on glass.
Thoughts on the Vortex Pro (not the PMRs)?
And I'm still thinking PST Gen2 3-15 unless someone can talk me into something better in that $750ish price range that these seem to fall into.
While I wait for my 25moa DIP rail I've been looking for rings and still debating on glass.
Thoughts on the Vortex Pro (not the PMRs)?
And I'm still thinking PST Gen2 3-15 unless someone can talk me into something better in that $750ish price range that these seem to fall into.
ON the scope Buy used Burris XTR 2 from here 5-x25 I get them for 650 all the time. I have bought 4. Or really look at the Midas tac
I'll check into the XTR ... My wife broke a XTR ii 1-5 twice during our 3 gun matches so I'm cautious with them now. Midas Tac is a no go due to 6x on the low side. The 5x of the XTR or even a PST is cutting it close - that's why many of the local guys went w the 3-15 PST over the 5-25 since there are closer range shots often it seems
Not the most vocal announcement by Tikka, but they have stated 2019 will bring a LEFT HANDED T1x
This is stated in their 2019 rifle catalogue. As a left handed shooter this is good news.
This is stated in their 2019 rifle catalogue. As a left handed shooter this is good news.
You may want to check out the Athlon Ares BTR 2.5-15x50. If you call Doug at Cameraland my guess is he can give you a much better price than you would expect. The other option that I have really been thinking about getting for myself is the Steiner P4X 4-16x56 for $799 from Cameraland. It is in a whole different class than the Vortex and is an outstanding value at the sale price.
That is fantastic. My youngest son is a lefty and finding anything for him is always a chore. From what I have seen if we wanted something nice we would have been stuck buying a CZ and rebarreling it. I didn’t really see any heavy barrel left handed 22’s from anyone else available. Just sportster weight barrels. I’ll have to keep my eye out for these. Maybe we will even be able to find one with the 16” barrel.
@Eoddave27 yeah ive got a Cz452 LH and no LH Cz455 and so far no cz457 either... a LH T1x will be nice considering the upgrade options already available for the t1x RH.
Holy smokes!
I’m new to shooting, and just received my T1x .22LR. Bought an Otis cleaning system for it (.22 specific) and spent over an hour cleaning the barrel tonight following the Otis cleaning instructions ?. Tell me it doesn’t normally take this long.
I literally used these patches 3 times each (see photo). I ran the CLP patch/bore brush/dry patch through the barrel a total of 18 times before it was coming out “remotely” clean ?. I then decided to call it.
Is that normal? It’s brand new rifle from the factory. I stopped as I didn’t want to damage the barrel (not sure if you can even do such a thing?). It was pretty darn dirty!
Anyhow, the rifle is beautiful. I have a Mountain Tactical 20 MOA picatinny rail mounted and a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50. I had a set of rings that fit perfectly!!! Couldn’t have worked out better ?.
I also adjust the trigger to 2lbs, cleaned/lubed the whole thing with G96. When I pulled it out of the box the bolt wasn’t very smooth. I cleaned everything up, lubed the bolt and now it’s like butter!
Can’t get over how much smaller it is than the T3x I just bought.
I can’t wait to get out and shoot this little monster
I’m new to shooting, and just received my T1x .22LR. Bought an Otis cleaning system for it (.22 specific) and spent over an hour cleaning the barrel tonight following the Otis cleaning instructions ?. Tell me it doesn’t normally take this long.
I literally used these patches 3 times each (see photo). I ran the CLP patch/bore brush/dry patch through the barrel a total of 18 times before it was coming out “remotely” clean ?. I then decided to call it.
Is that normal? It’s brand new rifle from the factory. I stopped as I didn’t want to damage the barrel (not sure if you can even do such a thing?). It was pretty darn dirty!
Anyhow, the rifle is beautiful. I have a Mountain Tactical 20 MOA picatinny rail mounted and a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50. I had a set of rings that fit perfectly!!! Couldn’t have worked out better ?.
I also adjust the trigger to 2lbs, cleaned/lubed the whole thing with G96. When I pulled it out of the box the bolt wasn’t very smooth. I cleaned everything up, lubed the bolt and now it’s like butter!
Can’t get over how much smaller it is than the T3x I just bought.
I can’t wait to get out and shoot this little monster
If you are shooting NRL22, then the closer range targets tend to be smaller (i.e. KYL rack). You'll likely want to have more than 6x on the scope for them. The only time I turn my scope down to the lowest power is when shooting unsupported.
While it's rare, every now and then there's a stage where higher power in the scope is helpful. In December we had a paper stage at 100 yards and the wind was changing. With the Athlon Talos BTR 4-14 I couldn't see where I was hitting on paper therefore my score suffered for it on that stage.
Have we confirmed that Tikka is not going to bring the 16” barrel 22LR to the US market? Bummer.
Another consideration for NRL22 and other rimfire target shooting is the minimum parallax setting. It is very helpful if you can have a parallax free sight picture at 25yds or less. In my experience this is particularly important for short KYL stages.
What is everyone torquing their action screws to? Ive seen some say 30 in/lbs while the manual states 44 (max). I have a little torque stick from my MPX that is preset to 44 which would make life super simple
Curious why anyone would swap out their barrel? These T1x's are proving to be ridiculous accurate out of the box...
As quikcolin said I can’t imagine why anyone would want to switch out the barrel. I finally had a calm day yesterday although rainy and the rifle just keeps amazing me. I shot four 3/4” groups in a row at 100 yards. I wanted to take photos of it but the target was falling apart by the time I got it back to my bench. I will be shooting my first match with this rifle tomorrow so I guess I will see how much a rifle can improve my score.
Not yet but when the time comes to swap out a barrel how hard is it and what does it involve?
3-4 grub screws and it comes out.
As to replacement barrels, over on RFC there is a thread about them and maybe 1-2 mfg’ers might be doing them.
If I get a tikka T1x I will be swapping the barrel out for a lighter barrel or for a 17hm2 lightweight bull barre.. as to why.... just because I want to.
