The one I got for my wife works great as well. Much better than the ones on my McMillan stocks.
- Thread starter southerngolfer
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The one I got for my wife works great as well. Much better than the ones on my McMillan stocks.
Has anyone tried to attach traditional sling studs to this by drilling and threading the stock? Is it strong enough like the Magpul Hunter that it won't just rip out of it? A buddy is looking to attach some to his and the instructions don't address it.
It should come with the necessary backers for the forend and they may work in the rear too. Just need extra studs.
Well hot damn who knew they work so damn late! Just got this reply from them.
"The backend of the Bravo is a polymer like the kind in a Pmag. The cavity is hollow and the walls while thick enough for plenty of strength are not conducive to tapping. However, you could simply drill a hole and use a threaded backer plate to affix the sling studs. That is how the stud or rail is attached to the bottom, if desired."
"The backend of the Bravo is a polymer like the kind in a Pmag. The cavity is hollow and the walls while thick enough for plenty of strength are not conducive to tapping. However, you could simply drill a hole and use a threaded backer plate to affix the sling studs. That is how the stud or rail is attached to the bottom, if desired."
If you mean at the rear, on bottom you can run a sling stud through the holes there and into a flat nut that's included with the chassis. Just take off the buttpad to get the nut in there. If you mean on the side, you can get a sling stud that goes into the included QD cup. Good luck!
Justin
Thanks Justin, I was talking about the bottom and I found that exact thing out last night when I took it apart. The existing hole is a little over sized for the stud so I was just gonna drill a smaller one between them so there's not slop in it.
I played around yesterday with a freehand camo pattern on my Bravo and I think it looks pretty interesting (if unconventional). The pattern uses H series Cerakote, pattern is four colors.
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Snake Skin
Me likey! Nice job!!
For those of you running tikkas specifically 223s with MDT mags do you find it bare down on the mag on a barricade or practicing with say a gamechanger that the feed lips protrude into the raceway and block the bolt from closing? In the same vein my last round doesn't pick up without me pushing the mag up. Like the latch was trimmed too much leaving wiggle room in the mag well so the depth isn't quite where it needs to be.
My 6.5 creedmoor blocks the bolt with aics pmags if i rest the rifle on the mags.
Hmmm...haven't seen that with mine. Though I do have one mag that jams more than the other 3. I just never got around to figuring out why. The other 3 feed pretty flawlessly (unless I do something stupid like double clutch the bolt or something)...
It's not the mag itself rather the position of the mag. It's not high enough in the magwell if i'm on the last round the bolt doesn't pick it up. If i lay the gun on a barricade and put pressure on the mag it protrudes into the raceway and blocks the bolt.
Sorry, I was unclear in my response. I have not have the issue with the mag height in either my Bravos (though one is a rebuilt X-Ray).
Have you checked to make sure the action is fully seated? Sometimes (especially with Tikkas), the action gets inserted slightly off, and doesn't seat fully into the chassis. I would suspect that this would affect the magazine height. Might be worth checking...
Have you checked to make sure the action is fully seated? Sometimes (especially with Tikkas), the action gets inserted slightly off, and doesn't seat fully into the chassis. I would suspect that this would affect the magazine height. Might be worth checking...
Might be worth checking, i've had some inconsistent fliers here and there i was attributing to myself but the gun will literally stack four shots in a hole then throw a couple had my friend shoot it as well with the same results. I thought it was inconsistent neck tension but that might not be it.
What are some of you using to keep the cheek piece in the same spot on the krg bravo ?
Paint pen and witness marks
Last round problems as well on my Bravo if I'm on a barricade. It's really annoying especially if I'm having a good run then get hung out to dry because of the extra time it takes to address the last round problem.
Small o rings on each of the shafts pushed down to the locking piece.
You may have too much play in your mag well, though the mag well barricade stop should prevent some of this. You can try moving the trigger guard assembly forward to tighten up the magazine fit, and possibly keeping it from tilting down & forward, when something is pressed against the magazine itself.
Just remove the rear of the stock (single screw in the tang area), flip the chassis so the bottom is facing up, and you'll see the screw for the trigger guard assembly. Just loosen and move forward.
One of these days I'm going to tear mine apart, and adjust the fit with a feeler gauge, so we figure out the optimum space needed for ease of use (mag falls free), but limited movement (mag can't tilt forward/down). It'd be nice to figure that out and pass that around...
A couple of these:
Amazon.com: WINSINN 3D Printer Openbuilds Lock Collar - T8 Lead Screw Lock Ring Block - Shaft Stainless Steel Locker OX CNC Parts for V Slot Linear Extrusion (Pack of 10Pcs): Industrial & Scientific
Amazon.com: WINSINN 3D Printer Openbuilds Lock Collar - T8 Lead Screw Lock Ring Block - Shaft Stainless Steel Locker OX CNC Parts for V Slot Linear Extrusion (Pack of 10Pcs): Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
Smart.
Can't take credit. Read it here somewhere. Works a treat!
Which .223 Mags are you guys running?
I have a poly mdt and a accurate metal and neither works worth a shit with my Remington 700
Ditto same set up here, though I have 2000+ rds through mine. No issues with the AM mags with poly inserts at all (short or long versions)
@Massoud
On a tangential thought, have you guys considered adding a drilled and tapped hole at the end of your ARCA/RRS rails? I've had the bipod slide off your rails a few times, and just thought I'd mention the need for a rail stop of some sort, like many other rails (including RRS) have.
On a tangential thought, have you guys considered adding a drilled and tapped hole at the end of your ARCA/RRS rails? I've had the bipod slide off your rails a few times, and just thought I'd mention the need for a rail stop of some sort, like many other rails (including RRS) have.
Anybody running M-LOK sling mounts in the slots on the front of the Bravo? I've got a 16½ lb rifle & am a little apprehensive bolting steel to plastic. Wondering if I should be looking at other options. Thanks.
I ran mine through the plastic and metal (longer screws and with the supplied KRG fasteners). Plenty strong. That being said, I just got their enclosed fore end for another build (twin brother is wanting to get into LR shooting), and I have to say, for it's light weight, it's super rigid (and has holes for the same QD sling plate that is used on the spigot mount).
Good questions, we had looked at adding threaded holes originally. However one thing you can do is just use a regular socket head screw at the very front (or wherever) rather than the low profile button head screw, or even put a couple washers on the button head screw. On a Bravo the very front screw is an M5 x 8mm. Let me know if that's not the solution for you.
J-ham one thing you could look at is our Ambi Sling Mount, it is steel and bolts into the aluminum backbone. https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/ambi-sling-mount/
For you and anyone looking to attach sling mounts to a polymer forend (of any kind/brand), the main failure mode is if guys don't get the little rotary t-nuts turned the full 90 degrees and there isn't full contact between the nut and the polymer. A buddy at Magpul mentioned that.
Thanks fellas.
Justin
Thanks Justin, I appreciate the info. I suspect since I'm running the Arca spigot & INVR, that puts the ambi sling mount out. I'm just going to give the M-LOK a shot, noting to make sure those nuts are turned the full 90° as you suggested. Thank you.
Get the metal plate from KRG that goes on the spigot. @Massoud can head you in the right direction. My rifle is 19.5-20.5 lbs and it works well.
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This^^^^ That's what I used on my X-Ray with spigot (and will be transferring over to the enclosed Fore end).
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/qd-sling-plate/
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/qd-sling-plate/
10-4, thanks guys.
That's really nice looking paint job there SharpsNitro.
@Massoud any time line on when the Arca swiss fore end is supposed to be released, I know you talked about it a few weeks ago but never really gave an ETA
The Arca Forend should be ready in a week or two, barring anything crazy we just have the last couple steps before we put them up on the site.
The W-3 forend is the same length as the Bravo and they are interchangeable. The bottom of it does sit a bit further from the bore on the W-3 than on the Bravo due to having the molded in threaded inserts. It's also a bit wider too of course.
Thanks guys.
Justin
The W-3 forend is the same length as the Bravo and they are interchangeable. The bottom of it does sit a bit further from the bore on the W-3 than on the Bravo due to having the molded in threaded inserts. It's also a bit wider too of course.
Thanks guys.
Justin
In for a bravo with ctr mags when available!
@Massaud Any chance of KRG selling .223 mags at some point soon? I’d pay for the KRG emblem on ‘em.
Which Harris mount are you guys running on your Bravo? Is the “inline” fine?
I picked up a Bravo in the classifieds for my .233 Tactical and trying to get everything I need for it.
Anybody want to trade a .223 mag for my .308 one?
Which Harris mount are you guys running on your Bravo? Is the “inline” fine?
I picked up a Bravo in the classifieds for my .233 Tactical and trying to get everything I need for it.
Anybody want to trade a .223 mag for my .308 one?
I've got a 'wide' Harris mount I'd make you a deal on if you're interested. I went that route because I figured more bolts & wider would make it more stable... Or at least wouldn't make it any less stable. PM me if interested.
Picked up a Bravo and the Brown truck delivered it today. Let me start by saying I’m a huge Manners fan and honestly do not care for most chassis (just a preference). I’m very impressed by the Bravo. The feel is very close to my T4A. I dropped my Rem SPS tac 223 in it without an issue. Getting the rail on for my Atlas took a bit of fiddling, but no big deal. All my magazines (Accurate, ARC and MDT) slide in and lock with ease.
I got this for a future rifle build, might end up leaving this on and picking up another for that build.
Thumbs up, KRG!
I got this for a future rifle build, might end up leaving this on and picking up another for that build.
Thumbs up, KRG!
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Yeah, getting the rail on (correctly) is a PITA. That being said, I guess that's why they're moving to the rail being an integral part of the fore end now.
Has anyone had any issues with 10rd mags falling out while shooting? During bench/prone shooting, my 10rd Pmag stayed in and fed just fine. But during my match on Saturday (my first PRS match) my 10rd Pmag would fall out after pulling the trigger. I'd slam it back in, load the next round, pull the trigger and the mag was back on the ground again.
A guy at the match let me borrow one of his 10rd Accurate Mags and it had the same issue. But my 6rd Pmags don't have that problem at all. While inserting either the Accurate Mag or the 10rd Pmag, I literally can't rip them out of the mag well (testing the mag catch) by hand. But when loaded, they both just fell out while shooting. I assumed it was a recoil + magazine weight thing just compounding together.
I read in the posts above that you can adjust the mag fit by moving the trigger guard forward. I might give that a try to see if it helps me out any.
I will say, I got pretty impressed with my speed to dig a new mag out of my pocket and get it in the gun to finish the stage before the timer went off haha.
A guy at the match let me borrow one of his 10rd Accurate Mags and it had the same issue. But my 6rd Pmags don't have that problem at all. While inserting either the Accurate Mag or the 10rd Pmag, I literally can't rip them out of the mag well (testing the mag catch) by hand. But when loaded, they both just fell out while shooting. I assumed it was a recoil + magazine weight thing just compounding together.
I read in the posts above that you can adjust the mag fit by moving the trigger guard forward. I might give that a try to see if it helps me out any.
I will say, I got pretty impressed with my speed to dig a new mag out of my pocket and get it in the gun to finish the stage before the timer went off haha.
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