Being "nice and shiny" can sometimes be a negative in a hunting rifle as the shine reflecting the sun can give you away. My main hunting rifle is cerekoted stainess to cut down the shine. Based on your requirements, I wouldn't give up a caliber I want to get stainless.
Good advice. I have a friend whose a gunsmith that could always cerekote it if I wanted to go that route.
the stainless has a matte finish and is more resistant to weather. A blued tikka shines as much, if not more than, the stainless ones. The Tac A1 and CTR in black are also matte, which is the only black/blue tikka I’d get. I have 4 tikkas and all of them are stainless.
Only advantage of sticking to straight rings, is being able to swap scopes around on rifles. Standardizing your equipment to one standard.
So either all your rifles have mounts with 0MOA or all with 20MOA. Just easier to swap a scope across if one fails.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the 20 moa rings come as one unit (not two independant rings). I would think that you would lose mounting flexibility by going that route as you couldn't adjust the ring spacing.
Burris and Warne both have adjustable moa individual rings.
There might be more but that's the two I know of....
Interesting. I'm not an engineer but it seems to me that the distance that you have the rings apart would affect the moa offset.
They include a chart. 4.75" apart is where the cant is supposedly true to the numbered inserts.
Right but that is about the same as having the rings hooked together and limits placement. I may be making too much of this but I have a Leupold VX6 3-18 and the tube in front of the dials is quite short. Not sure I would want to be confined by having to have the rings a certain distance apart. IMHO, the 20 moa rings would work if you don't want to buy another rail but I'm not sure you're going to be as satisfied.
Can always use the different included inserts at different ring spacing to still achieve desired cant. It's not rocket surgery.
Most decent scopes have more than adequate adjustment so a 20 moa rail isn’t necessary any more, and most rails are higher than the Tikka so I see it as a backward step.
Are you saying the individual rings are made to give 20 moa? I have a Tikka Tac A1 with the zero moa rail. I do not want to change the rail. I would love to find high 34mm 20 MOA rings for my Razor Gen 11. I can't find any information, so I figured they didn't exist.
Oh well, there are.
You don´t have to replace the base, which is a bit a kind of a pita what I´ve read.
I´ve mounted a -20MOA scope mount.
I did think about that but not really a disadvantage to my way of seeing it. Because I think both options have "pros & cons" I think overall it's the same. It'll depend specifically I guess whether you want to move your rings around/mount around on other rifles that may or may not have canted bases.
Do you have a link for the Warne?Here you go...
XTR Signature Rings™ | Burris Optics
www.burrisoptics.com
Most places are showing as discontinued so Warne might just be doing special orders to certain vendors.
Midway still shows the 30mm as special order but the price is steep.
Warne ANGLEYE 34mm 90 MOA Adjustable Picatinny-Style Rings Matte
More difficult than equipping a rifle to hit a target a mile away is to also hit a target 100 yards away with that exact same rifle. Having a great deal...
www.midwayusa.com 
What?! Why you off loading??
Going to cross a bucket list gun off and switch up my PRS gun. I'm going to go to a AI AT.
Very nice upgrade! Best of luck; we'll miss the photography!
Hey guy first post. I'm new to precision bolt action shooting. I've been immersing my self in this site, as well as others. I've decided on a T3X Varmint in 223 REM. It's going to be strictly a range gun with 300 yds being the most likely furthest distance...at least to start.
Anyway my question is about price. There doesn't seem to much variance in price, like you see with some other manufacturers. About $850 seems to be the norm. We are so close to Black Friday anyway, I figured I would just wait. But I am wondering do Tikka's run sales during the holidays like other companies? Or do they hold a pretty strict control on prices? I'm kind of antsy to get my hands on one, and I'm going to buy one regardless, but if I can save a decent amount by waiting a month I will. Thanks!
Anyway my question is about price. There doesn't seem to much variance in price, like you see with some other manufacturers. About $850 seems to be the norm. We are so close to Black Friday anyway, I figured I would just wait. But I am wondering do Tikka's run sales during the holidays like other companies? Or do they hold a pretty strict control on prices? I'm kind of antsy to get my hands on one, and I'm going to buy one regardless, but if I can save a decent amount by waiting a month I will. Thanks!
Just got them posted up!
Today i was testing first time my new customized T3X.
I had ladder test with Lapua Scenar 123gr, loaded in Lapua brass and Vihtavuori N150 powder.
By far the best was 39,8gr load, i have not even go for the landings, and brass was full sized.
Krieger barrel seems to like 123gr Scenar, 0,34MOA 5 shots at 100-meter, other load was also unDer 1/2 MOA.
Next to get the bullet close to landings, and see if it shoots even tighter.
Also tested new JAKI titanium super suppressors.
I had ladder test with Lapua Scenar 123gr, loaded in Lapua brass and Vihtavuori N150 powder.
By far the best was 39,8gr load, i have not even go for the landings, and brass was full sized.
Krieger barrel seems to like 123gr Scenar, 0,34MOA 5 shots at 100-meter, other load was also unDer 1/2 MOA.
Next to get the bullet close to landings, and see if it shoots even tighter.
Also tested new JAKI titanium super suppressors.
Relatively new to all this long range shooting business. I purchased a Tikka Tac A1 and love it, especially since it was available in LH. It is a great shooter but it and nearly a 3 lb Kahles scope make this thing weigh a ton. Where do I start to shave weight? I hope it is not my scope (6x25i) as that is some fine glass!
I have a T3X CTR 20" .308 and going to take a 1000 yard class this upcoming summer. Will that rifle be okay, or should I be looking to switch over to a 6cm/6.5cm Tikka?
I have a TAC A 1. I have the HEAVY weight Razor HD Gen II on top. My feeling is this rifle was built purpose specific, that being long range accuracy, and it does that extremely well. Point is the weight is part of the purpose. I want the weight.
I have other rifles that are lighter. But if I really want to hit a small piece of steel a long ways out there, I will use my heavy Tikka Everytime!!
Kahles weight only 34 oz, not even close to 3lbs 
Farbonfiber handguard might be one think to start.
Barrel spiral fluting also drob weight about 10-15 oz.
Farbonfiber handguard might be one think to start.
Barrel spiral fluting also drob weight about 10-15 oz.
i have shot 20" CTR 308win for 800-meters 8" steel plates, no problem.
For sure 6.5mm or 6mm will be easier to hit those targets in 1000, less wind and straight flight, but if you want to make your self
a good shooter, 308win is a great caliber for that job.
Friend of mine, ColeTac Europe owner, use a CTR 308win and hi hit these groups at the 1000 meters, so it has the power to do that.
Here’s where I’m at. Somewhat inspired by reubenski. Ctr action in KRG W3. 6 Dasher, 223AI and factory 260 barrel cut down. 
I’ve seen a couple of older posts that say you can buy a Tikka action alone - true? Wanting to do a SA build with proof barrel and manners mini chassis, so only need the action. T3x lite and T3 ctr are different actions - right?
thank you
thank you
Need advise mounting Vortex 5-25 50mm scope (30mm tube) on T3X Tac.
Hi everyone,
I got the rifle and the scope now and was looking to mount it using Weaver Tac 6 hole High rings but the scope is touching the barrel.
if I am to switch to X-High rings I can get another 3mm(0.12) of high and that would be sufficient for mounting but it makes me wonder if that would be high enough to use raising cheek rest on the rifle.
I really like this kind of rings and XX-high do not exist so I wanted to ask for an advise what rings you are using and if you are able to use the raising cheek rest. What should be distance between the rail and the bottom of the scope?
Hi everyone,
I got the rifle and the scope now and was looking to mount it using Weaver Tac 6 hole High rings but the scope is touching the barrel.
if I am to switch to X-High rings I can get another 3mm(0.12) of high and that would be sufficient for mounting but it makes me wonder if that would be high enough to use raising cheek rest on the rifle.
I really like this kind of rings and XX-high do not exist so I wanted to ask for an advise what rings you are using and if you are able to use the raising cheek rest. What should be distance between the rail and the bottom of the scope?
I have my Razor with the 56 objective on my TacA1. I am using the highest Vortex rings. Enough clearance for lens caps
No. With Tikkas pick your action material, handedness, and bolt face.
The difference between ctr and lite is magazine and barrel weight. Ctr's are threaded lites aren't. Ctr's have the short action bolt stop and lites could have short or long.
With what you are wanting to do either will work.
Shot a great 5 rd string with my 6.5 creed T3X CTR using some 147grn ELDs the other day. From center to center of the impacts its a roughly 3in group at 750 yds. I've shot the Hornaday 140s before and found them to be a good load but these 147s are something else entirely. We were dialed in at 5.4 mils of elevation, and a full 1 mil left for wind, they would just sail right in to exactly where you pointed them.
You said the scope is touching your barrel, so I’m thinking you have the T3x tactical, not the TacA1. But in case you’re talking about the TacA1, here you go:
vortex pst gen2 5-25x50 in vortex PMR 1.45” rings and it’s perfect, even with defender caps.
This is the only picture I have at the moment
Last edited:
Some gun porn on the monday guys ; )
Thanks - yes it is tac a1 as yours and the scope I have is vortex pst gen2 5-25x50, so the same setup.
if you raise the cheek rest. Does the height of these rings still let you properly look through the scope?
Thanks again!
CTRs have a medium bolt stop. High Velocity Hunting Australia has an adjustable that can be configured for short, CTR/medium, and long. I put one on a 270 that I made into a 22BR.
Tikka Bolt Stop Adjustable | HVHA
Our adjustable Tikka Bolt Stops fit both the Tikka T3 and Tikka T3x, our Bolt Stops allow loading of cartridges with long Case overall lengths
highvelocityhuntingaustralia.com.au All factory Tikka T3X models have only one bolt stop in these days.
Tikka T3 time, short ammo use action has shorter bolt move than they have now.
I have bought short T3 bolt stop for all my KRG chassis rifles, since that deam bolt is coming to my arm pit on the T3X model.
One way to save money in the factory.
That stopper dont cost much, and it is very nice improvment.
That Australian custom stopper is looking cool, you can fine tune that bolt movement.
Tikka T3 time, short ammo use action has shorter bolt move than they have now.
I have bought short T3 bolt stop for all my KRG chassis rifles, since that deam bolt is coming to my arm pit on the T3X model.
One way to save money in the factory.
That stopper dont cost much, and it is very nice improvment.
That Australian custom stopper is looking cool, you can fine tune that bolt movement.
I'm putting together a CTR build for a hunting rifle and was wondering who all had pillars installed on their Manners stocks? Is it necessary to do this and also bed the rifle? The stock I picked up is inletted for CDI bottom metal and does not have the mini chassis. Every Manners I have bought was for a 700 footprint and had a mini chassis.
that first picture is from before I had adjusted anything, and just mounted the scope.
This is how it sits today, and the cheek rest is about right for me at this height. Also, in this pic you can see the gap between the scope and rail a little better from this angle.
Last edited:
That cheekrest is kydex, it is easy to mod, if you need it to be higher.
Hoptic USA saddle planket is a must on that TAC A1 cheekrest.
Hoptic USA saddle planket is a must on that TAC A1 cheekrest.
