I'm guessing not enough Chamfer. Anytime I see copper shavings like this it's usually coming from the Chamfer. Check some of your loaded ammo, if it's shaving copper you'll see it on the case mouth.
I'm guessing not enough Chamfer. Anytime I see copper shavings like this it's usually coming from the Chamfer. Check some of your loaded ammo, if it's shaving copper you'll see it on the case mouth.
100% positive it's not a reloading issue.
I am new to this forum but I believe that sounds like a good deal
It’s funny that when I called Preffered Barrel Blanks I was told no tikka shouldered prefits and no Curtis axiom prefits. The guy in the video is using a shouldered Tikka prefit.
Have you shot any factory ammo through it to see if those leave behind these copper shavings? That's what I'd try.
It’s funny that when I called Preffered Barrel Blanks I was told no tikka shouldered prefits and no Curtis axiom prefits. The guy in the video is using a shouldered Tikka prefit.
If you go to the Tikka prefit ordering form at PBB, you have an option now for variable shoulder or fixed shoulder.
Bob
Took my new CTR in MPA chassis to the range today. Worked on zeroing. Used up some ammo I had to get close then tried some Hornady 140g ELDM which my other tikka loved and no surprise another very accurate rifle. Very happy. Reinforces my desire to build a Tikka .224 Valkyrie out of a .223.
Had the zero very close. The hole just above calipers was my zero being slightly off. Adjusted then finished the last three rounds with this result.
Had the zero very close. The hole just above calipers was my zero being slightly off. Adjusted then finished the last three rounds with this result.
Looking to build up a Tikka 300wm I have that isnt getting shot anymore. Want to rebarrel it to 6.5 PRC in the Tikka LongISH action. I think this would be a good combo. Seems only chassis for it is the MDT ESS.
Who should I look for to get a prefit shouldered barrel? Talked to Chad at LRI and he can do it. PVA, and Stock Stocks has a Proof Carbon in 22" but thinking the carbon might get too light for a PRS style rig?
Whats the hide say?
Who should I look for to get a prefit shouldered barrel? Talked to Chad at LRI and he can do it. PVA, and Stock Stocks has a Proof Carbon in 22" but thinking the carbon might get too light for a PRS style rig?
Whats the hide say?
Unless you are going to use it for field style mostly prone matches, 6.5 PRC isn't the caliber you want for PRS matches. Weight is your friend for any match rifle unless it is a ruck style match that has maximum rifle weight.
Should have clarified a little better. It wont see much PRS action....maybe one a year or twice max I think....If I even like it. Mostly for bangin steel in the mountains and range work. Coyotes, etc.
No, and I don't ever plan on it. (It's not a reloading issue)
I'm not saying that it is. I'm saying that if it does it to factory loads there could be a burr in the chamber. Then it would prove it irrefutably.
He got a lot of infos and tips here.
If he would try them, he would find the problem asap I´m sure.
The photo above this reply isn’t of a Tikka inlet chassis. This looks like a Remington or Savage inlet with a recoil lug between the barrel shoulder and the front of the receiver.
a Tikka inlet will have a recoil lug that stays with the chassis / stock.
No dumb questions when you’re learning.
A $50 - $75 Teslong bore scope is pretty much becoming one of those “Mandatory Accessories” for a precision rifle shooter, just like a good cleaning rod, bore guide, etc.
Got one on the way.
Yep, if you want two stage, Timney is a good route. I just prefer single stage and with the aftermarket spring, I get the pull weight that I like.
I typically like Timney triggers but I did not like the timney two stage in the tikka. I quickly sold mine. It was fairly spongey before the break. I like the factory triggers just fine.
Strange. Mine is as crisp a trigger as I have felt on a rifle. Very nice two stage pull. Wonder if you had a bum one or possibly it came from teh factory not properly set up? You can adjust pretty much everything on those. I almost went with the KRG Midas but didn't wanna spend the extra $120. And I've always been very pleased with Timney triggers.
Was that for Howa or Remington, that they send you?
I called them and sent pictures. They said that was the correct one for Tikka. The recoil lug is actually the machined chassis. When I sat the chassis right next to the t3x stock everything lined up exact. Everything bolted perfect. I spoke with Al at mpa.
I had a KRG Midas trigger and I had 0 complaints other than it was 2 stage. Excellent quality and an option for a bottom safety if that 'floats your boat'. I personally just can't get to like two stage
. The way I see it is if you want 2 stage while maintaining the Tikka bolt lock, then go with KRG. If you want 2 stage but don't want the bolt lock, then go with the Timney. If you want single stage with or without lock, buy an Eley aftermarket spring and utilize the factory trigger. All good options depending on your preferences.
My only complaint with the factory trigger is that both of mine had a bit of a catch (would start to move, then stop, apply a bit more pressure and it would fire.) Almost inperceptable but there. It is like there was a microscopic burr on it. Adding the aftermarket spring made it more perceptable. It seemed to go away after about 100 rounds so I put up with it until it smoothed out.
On the picture you showed, there is no recoil lug on the picture.
Was it a separate part in the box where the chassis came with the action screws?
Every chassis for Tikka i know, and i have 3 Tikka rifles, you can see that recoil lug.
I had a KRG Midas trigger and I had 0 complaints other than it was 2 stage. Excellent quality and an option for a bottom safety if that 'floats your boat'. I personally just can't get to like two stage
The way I see it is if you want 2 stage while maintaining the Tikka bolt lock, then go with KRG. If you want 2 stage but don't want the bolt lock, then go with the Timney. If you want single stage with or without lock, buy an Eley aftermarket spring and utilize the factory trigger. All good options depending on your preferences.
My only complaint with the factory trigger is that both of mine had a bit of a catch (would start to move, then stop, apply a bit more pressure and it would fire.) Almost inperceptable but there. It is like there was a microscopic burr on it. Adding the aftermarket spring made it more perceptable. It seemed to go away after about 100 rounds so I put up with it until it smoothed out.
I believe it must be that in the US markets, normal trigger must be over 2lb
I had a KRG Midas trigger and I had 0 complaints other than it was 2 stage. Excellent quality and an option for a bottom safety if that 'floats your boat'. I personally just can't get to like two stage
The way I see it is if you want 2 stage while maintaining the Tikka bolt lock, then go with KRG. If you want 2 stage but don't want the bolt lock, then go with the Timney. If you want single stage with or without lock, buy an Eley aftermarket spring and utilize the factory trigger. All good options depending on your preferences.
My only complaint with the factory trigger is that both of mine had a bit of a catch (would start to move, then stop, apply a bit more pressure and it would fire.) Almost inperceptable but there. It is like there was a microscopic burr on it. Adding the aftermarket spring made it more perceptable. It seemed to go away after about 100 rounds so I put up with it until it smoothed out.
In Europe, Tikka has different trigger spings than you in the US.
We can tune the factory trigger, with the factory spring under 2lbs.
With the tuning sping it goes even in to a 1lbs, but the safety might not work anymore, that´s not wise, if you are not a benchrest shooter.
Safety first.
Im not sure are the trigger from US market even same as they are in Europe, because one guy at this forum writed a while back, that hi had change Yodaves trigger sping, and hi still had over 2lbs on the trigger, before it brakes.
I have had factory trigger with that sping, about 500gram, and that is super sweet.
But i would not go on moose hunt with that
Have you checked that the chassis is actually missing anything when you assemble it to the rifle action? It looks to me that the rib (marked yellow) is the recoil lug.
Did you just drop in the action or did you bed it as well?
Yes that's correct sorry I posted I had spoken to Al at mpa and he verified what you were saying. I attached the chassis to the action and man was it perfect. I am extremely happy with it and how it fit. Thanks for your help.
This is the final product.
Tikka t3x ctr in 6.5 Creedmore
Mountain tactical trigger spring
Mpa ba chassis
Vortex viper pst gen2 5-25x50
Ultradyne Apollo max muzzle brake
Going to shoot the first shots through the gun Saturday
Just out of curiosity what bolt handle are you talking about
Sterk bolt handle. Just got mine the other day. Cannoncrossfire who was posting just up there makes them. They are sweet
Stainless Tikka in a green bravo. Aluminum barrel to measure for scope ring height lol.
Got my old beast a new barrel for this year.
SAC 6.5 Creed
Bartlein 28" 1:8
PVA Shockwave brake
KRG X Ray w/Ingenuity rail + arca
Sterk bolt handle (still my favorite handle of all time, thanks @cannoncrossfire !)
Bushnell DMR2
ARC M10 rings
Heavy KRG bag rider
Scott Whitehead's weight kit
SAC 6.5 Creed
Bartlein 28" 1:8
PVA Shockwave brake
KRG X Ray w/Ingenuity rail + arca
Sterk bolt handle (still my favorite handle of all time, thanks @cannoncrossfire !)
Bushnell DMR2
ARC M10 rings
Heavy KRG bag rider
Scott Whitehead's weight kit
No need to bed a German Gun Stock. They have an aluminum mini chassis with a stainless steel recoil lug that the action sits in. I torque mine to 45 ft/lbs. You can take it apart between shots and it will not affect group size.
Dual.
THE other is not finished yet, Whiskey forend is still in cerakoting.
Friend of my, did cerakoted that OD green panel set.
THE other is not finished yet, Whiskey forend is still in cerakoting.
Friend of my, did cerakoted that OD green panel set.
It depends on your personal preference and the depth of your pockets.
I have two KRG Midas Triggers and all of my aftermarket AR triggers are two stage.
Even the Accutrigger in my Savage LRP acts like it's a two stage...
You didn't mention the adjustable butt pad system...
Now go camo paint the stock so you can be like the rest of us "Cool Kids"...
Barrel blank showed up. Getting closer.
I found that My T3 TAC A1 like Prime 6.5cm factory ammo better tha Hornady ELD Match. I haven't had the chance to develope a load yet but I can reuse the Norma brass from the Prime ammo.
Does it shoot any better than the original barrel
I looked for one as well but don’t see a model for an iPhone.
