Enter the Sako S20
Finally got my CTR 6.5 Creedmoor with 20"barrel set up for now. Good enough to take to the range for the first time tomorrow hopefully . 
I've got a 20" 6.5 CM CTR and it shoots incredibly well. I broke it in with a box of american whitetail (which it shot really well), and then shot for zero with some FGMM 130 Bergers, which it shot INCREDIBLY well. Five shot groups under a 1/2". It really likes those 130's. Haven't shot anything heavier yet since those did so well, but I guess I should probably try some 143's and 147's.
it’s really hard to beat the CTR. It feels like cheating. Factory Gun and Factory Ammo shooting consistently .3-.5 MOA. Mine prefers the 140 eldm. But it still shoots .6-.75 with 140 american gunner. Here was yesterday’s best group for eldm. 3 shots @ 100
I'm a big fan of Area 419 rails. Have them on all of my Tikkas now. I really like TPS rings but have Seekins on one of my rifles as they are a smidge lower than the TPS .
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i ended up buying the SWFA 3-9HD for the gun. I’m thinking i may go Warne rings which integrate directly into the dovetail mount on the tikka with no extra rail. They come with a recoil lug on the bottom. If i do decide to do a rail, i’ll probably do area 419 or mountain tactical 20 moa and then a set of burris xtr sigs where you can add moa as well. But for hunting 300-600 and in, i should have plenty of adjustment in the dials/reticle.
Ran into a problem yesterday ,need some ideas on what it could be, my t3x is chambered in 6dasher in a mpa chassis. I was trying out some of my buddies copper creek ammo loaded in alpha brass I was mainly check to see how smooth it was chambering in my rifle so I was running the bolt pretty slow , chambered the first round and fired it ,worked the bolt slow and ejected the brass , chambered the next round slow and the firing pin was not cocked i ejected that live round and chambered the 3rd when i closed the bolt the round fired ( luckily I dont close the bolt till I'm on target, and I actually hit the target). After that I worked the bolt slowly with no ammo and every time I closed the bolt the firing pin fired I did that probably 5 or 6 times and it fired every time then I ran the bolt hard and it wouldn't do it . After I ran it hard one time it was fine even if i went back to cycling the bolt slow. I do have a aftermarket trigger spring in it( cant remember which brand) and it's set pretty light and I have the firing pin bushed but I would have figured running the bolt hard would have set it off but it doesn't I tried pushing down on the safety to try to get it to malfunction but nothing happens. Has anyone ever had this happen
That´s the sping error you have there.
Tighten that tension back of the trigger pull of weight, you have it too loose.
I would even toss it and go back to factory sping, since it does that now, it is not safety.
Also check the bolt that hold the trigger, is it tight?
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First check after unloading / chamber check, remove action from stock / chassis, etc. is the Allen bolt that fastens the trigger to the action. If it’s loose, tighten it &retest. If it’s tight, move on to the trigger spring and increase tension on the set screw then retest.
I bet the bolt holding the trigger housing to the action is loose.
Is your trigger set extremely low? I found that with an aftermarket mountain tactical trigger spring it wouldn't hold it unless I had the screw really cranked down. It did it about 80% of the time until I tightened it down til the screw was almost bottomed out. Then it did great. I ended up installing a Timney trigger though and it's amazing. I can now cycle the bolt with the safety on, which in my opinion is a big improvement.
Hi all,
New to the hide. Been a lurker for a while...
Figured this would be a good first post.
After not having any bolt actions for over a decade (almost 2!).
I have been bit by the bolt action bug again,
And I have Tikka to thank for it! (My wallet is going to be pissed)
Ctr in 6.5cm
New to the hide. Been a lurker for a while...
Figured this would be a good first post.
After not having any bolt actions for over a decade (almost 2!).
I have been bit by the bolt action bug again,
And I have Tikka to thank for it! (My wallet is going to be pissed)
Ctr in 6.5cm
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Best group with the 6.5 to date at least....
Every time I go out I always get one flyer ....
I guess I cant complain ...last time I shot rifles for groups Bush may have been president! Hahahah
Mine really likes the 140grain berger hunting rounds loaded by Hsm.....
Shoots barnes precision match just about as well.....
I only assume my groups will get better only around 190 rounds down the pipe!
I consistently get this same group lol
5 shots. 103 yards.
Normally cold as f outside hahaha(Alaska)
Every time I go out I always get one flyer ....
I guess I cant complain ...last time I shot rifles for groups Bush may have been president! Hahahah
Mine really likes the 140grain berger hunting rounds loaded by Hsm.....
Shoots barnes precision match just about as well.....
I only assume my groups will get better only around 190 rounds down the pipe!
I consistently get this same group lol
5 shots. 103 yards.
Normally cold as f outside hahaha(Alaska)
I need to try those 140's. Both my 6.5's are very partial to Berger rounds. 130's and 135's do very well. I've been pretty impressed with other HSM ammo I've shot.
This is so true..
I just bought a 300wsm at a decent deal.
I want to see how she shoots stock before I turn it into a prs/hunting style build.
But the ctr.......it shoots so nice as is.......even though I don't care for the stock..
I'm afraid to change anything on it for fear of it opening up hahaha...
I'll say this. I never shot my CTR in the original stock. I put it in a KRG Bravo immediately. It shot very well. I installed a Timney trigger on it. It shot even better. I don't think theres any way to hurt the way these shoot unless you taped the action to a broomstick. Even then, it would probably shoot better than a lot of options out there ha ha ha.
For sure.
I tried the 130's and it shot under an inch
Just not as tight as those 140s. Could have been me
as I'm confident a better shooter could make that rifle and load a damn near single hole!
I only have the one creedmoor atm....but I have been building ars like crazy this year and just got my ar10 to shoot sub moa with 168 match kings...
just finished a 6.5 grendel pistol build
So I think I going to build a creedmoor upper next.
I agree!...
Although I tend to go crazy and mod most of my guns .....
This tikka being my first bolt gun in so many years holds a special place.... and I'm not changing a thing on her till I shoot her barrel out.....
Then all bets are off hahaha
Others have suggested them I'm sure...
But I just got an area 419 rail on my 300wsm and fit and finish where excellent.
Came with a stainless steel recoil lug/pin.
Mine was in 20 moa because I plan on building this 300 lite to a long rang gun.
You can cycle the bolt with the safety on with the factory trigger. Just take the trigger off and file or grind the top of the bolt lock pin off. Just have to take it down a smidge lower than the lip on it. Just make sure that the shavings don't get into your trigger. To prevent this, I poke a small hole in a ziplock bag and seal the trigger in that with only the pin sticking out of the hole. I then wrap it all in masking tape for good measure. Of course this voids the warrantee so don't do it without careful consideration and at your own risk.
Yea it's set as light as it will go and still function, I wish I could get a aftermarket trigger but no one makes a left one other than bix'n andy
I did that, iv got 500 rounds through the gun never having a single issue , I'm gonna get a diff trigger spring and try that out
Picture?
Glades Armory update:
A few pages back there was a conversation of how bad their customer service was and I think how some never got the product they ordered. I took a chance and emailed them and stated that they didn't have the best reputation here and if there was some explaination. They said there were some family issues that took them away from their business and everything is back to normal. I ordered a LH black bolt handle with a little swept back appearance that fits like a glove. Plus several quick answers via email about the handle. Just thought I would put a plug in for them after their earlier issues.
A few pages back there was a conversation of how bad their customer service was and I think how some never got the product they ordered. I took a chance and emailed them and stated that they didn't have the best reputation here and if there was some explaination. They said there were some family issues that took them away from their business and everything is back to normal. I ordered a LH black bolt handle with a little swept back appearance that fits like a glove. Plus several quick answers via email about the handle. Just thought I would put a plug in for them after their earlier issues.
My tikka t3x ctr in krg bravo chassis, zeiss v4 6-24x50 in Burris xtr signature rings, forteimer bipod and dpt overbarrel suppressor.
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I'm not going to take my rifle apart to get pictures but attached is a stock photo with a red line showing the area that I removed. There is a step in the pin at this position and I have always needed to go .010-.020 below that step to keep the bolt from dragging on the pin when the safety was 'on'. I have always clamped the narrow part in a vice and cut with a hack saw at the step. From there I file or grind it down a bit more. As stated earlier, make sure the trigger is wrapped so no metal gets into the trigger. Again, this will void the warranty and do it at your own risk.
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That would do the trick for the guys who don’t like the bolt locks. No reason not to buy a Tikka ? . I use to be one of the guys who were against the two position safety that locked the bolt considering I grew up with Remingtons.
Two years ago I had a pig walk across a small opening. I lifted up to make a quick shot, pressed the trigger and nothing happened. By the time I figured out that my bolt handle was lifted halfway, the pig was gone. This was with my tried and true Remington. I now appreciate that bolt lock on my Tikkas. Neither type of safety is a make or break for me.
I had that same issue with a Tikka WITH a bolt lock. It happened at the range so I was cycling between shots with the safety off. The bolt was part way up and the gun didn't go off. Now, when I'm hunting, I take it off safety using my trigger finger and part of the process is to slide my finger over the bolt on the way to the trigger to confirm that it is fully closed. Takes a millisecond longer to shoot but never been a problem with a misfire or not getting the shot off.
Absolutely. I learned to do the same.
Can't you just remove the pin. I have only removed pin and safety lever when fitting the 3 position safety from ASH. It should work without the pin but safety catch put back.
edi
Did you have to do much modification to it for proper become?
Nope, worked fine as it was.
Start of a new project: bought a used but supposedly unfired CTR 260 for a good price.
This is going to be something I can practice with to stay sharp for hunting and maybe dip my toes into PRS competition this summer.(fingers crossed)
Rail, rings, break, and chassis in route. All in this should stay a fairly value mined build.
This is going to be something I can practice with to stay sharp for hunting and maybe dip my toes into PRS competition this summer.(fingers crossed)
Rail, rings, break, and chassis in route. All in this should stay a fairly value mined build.
For the full effect, you need to read the following in an old wizard voice:
“Welcome to the dark side....
Abandon all hope for a Zero Credit Card Balance.
Be fore warned !
Many have trodden the path you now pursue, many have forsaken all sustenance except for coffee and Ramen Noodles to achieve the perfect zen that is the cry of “Impact” at the 1,000 yard firing line...
Good luck on your journey and always remember, In the words of those the went before you: “Buy Once, Cry Once”. For if you fail to heed this advice you will be doomed to buying “Project Rifles“ and “Trainer Rifles“ to use up the spare parts from upgrading in small steps...
This is another strain of the wallet draining plague known as “Black Rifle Disease”
You have been warned !! “
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I’ve been stricken for some time. This is my second CTR build. The first was a 308 hunting(ish) build I sold to a friend.
Tikka T3X CTR 260rem barrelled action is now cerakoted to OD green.
I will receive Whiskey forend and grip panels later on, those will have M05 camo pattern, so they are same look as it is on my custom T3X.
I will receive Whiskey forend and grip panels later on, those will have M05 camo pattern, so they are same look as it is on my custom T3X.
I'm going the opposite way....
I think my ctr shoots so well I'm not changing a thing till I burn that barrel out....
And it will be used to judge the rifle I'm going to build out of my 300wsm....
To see if the juice was worth the sqeeze!
I think my ctr shoots so well I'm not changing a thing till I burn that barrel out....
And it will be used to judge the rifle I'm going to build out of my 300wsm....
To see if the juice was worth the sqeeze!
I agree they are super accurate barrels, a little on the slow side though
My Tikka CTR 24" in 6.5 has 2900 rounds now. The lands have moved forward quite a bit. Groups are noticeably bigger but still not bad. How many rounds should I expect to get from this factory barrel with using 40.7 grains of H4350 and 142 SMK going about 2640-2670 max? thanks
Have you shot it yet?
No problems I can think of ....except for me a full aluminum chasis will be cold as hell as I do a lot of cold weather shooting lately
No not yet. I am waiting on optics to come in. I am curious how it will shoot. This is my first tikka. Have always had Remington 700 and ar10 platform stuff. But it's never been anything at the the Tikka ctr level. Atleast that's what I am hoping.
Mountain Tactical 20MOA base and Seekens rings(from the hide exchange) showed up today! Chassis and brake should be here Saturday but I will be up in the Northwoods shoveling the cabin roof. I may mount the scope tonight just to see how everything clears. I have a KRG bravo on the way. I may shamelessly copy @viking78 paintjob.
Ive got a tac a1 in 6.5 CM with 24", I'm running about 2760 FPS loading 42.4 grn of Reloader 16 with 140 grn ELDMatch. I've read around 2500 rounds will be about the life of the barrel but plan to shoot it until throat erosion becomes an issue or my groups start to open up.
I heard on a vortex podcast That they are running CTRs as test guns. They mentioned retiring one around 5000 rounds that went from .3 to .5+ MOA. They mentioned they have a couple in circulation with around 3000 rounds that are still holding tight.
Ill be more than happy for mine to last that long. I currently only have about 650 rounds through mine, so I've still got a long ways to go. I wounder how hot they are running their rounds?
