300 Win Mag - to crimp or not to crimp
- Thread starter Jpw2
- Start date
I'm guessing you're reloading for a bolt gun. In that case, no, do not crimp. Typically, you'll want .001-.002" neck tension.
There's a thread over in the reloading forum that is definitely worth a read.
Thank you, I will be using either the Redding Type S dies or the RCBS equivalent with appropriate bushing.
I generally don't crimp... unless I am planning on the ammo getting beat up. Load up a few rounds and run them through the gun without firing-- the same way that you will run the bolt the rest of the time. Measure OAL before and after- and see if you need a crimp. One of my guns will seat the bullet deeper if I run the bolt hard with no crimp- so I use a crimp as a band-aid instead of actually fixing the issue.
I haven't had better accuracy or consistency with a crimp but many people say they do.
I haven't had better accuracy or consistency with a crimp but many people say they do.
Don’t crimp unless you have a cannelure to crimp into, otherwise all you’re doing is fighting the jacket.
I only crimp loads for revolvers and semi-autos. My 300wm is single fed with berger 210 vld’s so no reason to crimp, and there is no cannelure (which wouldn’t match my seating depth anyway).
I do not crimp rifle (currently reloading 223, 243, 260 Rem, 270 Win and 308) only pistol (currently loading 9mm, 45 acp, 357 Mag, 44 Mag)
I shoot Berger 190 VLDs in my 300 WM with no crimp. I have had zero issues in almost 500 rounds.
I tend a very lightly crimp my rounds because they’re going to be traveling with me and rattling back-and-forth potential he in an ammo can or a box.
As such a light taper crimp is warranted....
As such a light taper crimp is warranted....
