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M40 finally up and running!

tashle1

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 23, 2011
34
28
43
Louisiana
Well, putting the pieces together took longer than expected... but I couldn't be happier!
Build specs:
6 digit Remington 700 receiver, bolt, aluminum butplate, and trigger assembly.

Lija 1:10 remington varmint profile barrel

Toki finished period correct Redfield

Redfield "66" rings

Leupold 1 piece base

Remington 700 BDL stock (Ebay find) checkering removed, pillar/glass bedded, and finished with BLO.

Remington 513 swivels

I dont believe that there is a sexier looking rifle than the 40.

Below are the 1st 4 shots @ 100
with plane ole 168 gmm. I couldn't wait for my lapua brass to arrive.
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Wow, congratulations, great build! There's lots of work in that stock I'm sure!
No doubt that the stock is a labor of love. Lots of time steaming out and sanding the checkering. Luckily I have a friend who was able to show me how to do the bedding. I was actually surprised how dark it came out with just the BLO. It finished out just like I wanted. It took 6 coats with lots of pressure and hand generated heat. I finished it with a couple of coats of paste wax.
 
Classic rifle! Outstanding job!
The blind plate target took me back to my oil and gas days.
 
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Classic rifle! Outstanding job!
The blind plate target took me back to my oil and gas days.
Yeah, I'm in South Louisiana so we get to weld up makeshift stuff with old oil and gas stuff for a fraction of the cost!
 
Nice rifle.
What was the deciding factor on going with the Lija barrel ?
I'm going to start my 2nd .308 build shortly with a Douglas and after reading your post I went on their website and took a looksee.
I'm considering it but not quite there yet, I've had rifles with Shilens and Douglas barrels but never a Lija. I never heard of them until today.
 
Nice rifle.
What was the deciding factor on going with the Lija barrel ?
I'm going to start my 2nd .308 build shortly with a Douglas and after reading your post I went on their website and took a looksee.
I'm considering it but not quite there yet, I've had rifles with Shilens and Douglas barrels but never a Lija. I never heard of them until today.
I have a Lija on a 6.5x284 that shoots great. Lija had a chrome moly varmint contour in stock... so that’s what I got. A friend of mine who built the 6.5 really likes lija and convinced me the first go around, so I figured why not a second time. I shot it more today and it’s really doing well, as far as grouping. It’s shooting about .6 for a 5 shot group. Hopefully it’ll be a real tack driver once I work up some loads for it.
 
Finding a BDL stock that's checkered and without the ebony tip is quite a trick, I never see that way.

You should give us a tutorial on your method to remove the checkering you did a great job.

Removing that hard ass glossy shit the put on them is battle enough.
 
The stock could have very well started as an ADL and someone carved out the inlet for the bottom metal. I used a stripper to remove the gloss finish. The checkering was quite a pain. I believe it was not true checkering, but pressed checkering which makes it easier... I guess. The design of the checkering was very simple.

I used an Iron turned to the highest setting and an old cotton tshirt super saturated with water. I would then massage the wet shirt into the checkering area. After massaging, I would lay the folded tshirt over the checkering and apply the iron. Essentially steaming up the pressed checkering. After steaming 2 or 3 times, I would allow the wood to dry and sand the now elevated checkering down with like 320 sand paper... and repeat until all of it is gone. It probably took about 5 or 6 steaming sessions per checkered area to relieve all signs of checkering.
 
The stock could have very well started as an ADL and someone carved out the inlet for the bottom metal. I used a stripper to remove the gloss finish. The checkering was quite a pain. I believe it was not true checkering, but pressed checkering which makes it easier... I guess. The design of the checkering was very simple.

I used an Iron turned to the highest setting and an old cotton tshirt super saturated with water. I would then massage the wet shirt into the checkering area. After massaging, I would lay the folded tshirt over the checkering and apply the iron. Essentially steaming up the pressed checkering. After steaming 2 or 3 times, I would allow the wood to dry and sand the now elevated checkering down with like 320 sand paper... and repeat until all of it is gone. It probably took about 5 or 6 steaming sessions per checkered area to relieve all signs of checkering.

I cleaned that RKW gloss off a stock just to make it oil finished.

Using some gel type stripper with skull and crossbones on the can and burning to the skin it was still a total pain in the ass.
 
I cleaned that RKW gloss off a stock just to make it oil finished.

Using some gel type stripper with skull and crossbones on the can and burning to the skin it was still a total pain in the ass.

I used this stuff called citrus strip, citristrip? It was much milder than the high potency stuff that ive used before. Not quite as effective, but no chemical burns either. for small projects its gtg.
 
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Inspiration indeed! Thank you for sharing this beautiful rifle. I told myself no more after the 1903a4 clone but a M40 is on my want list. Very nice rifle you have their and thank you for sharing.
 
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Love this project. turned out great!

Can second the citristrip. Have used it extensively. Did you have trouble with cleanup? I have found that denatured alcohol is the best for removing the residue.
 
Love this project. turned out great!

Can second the citristrip. Have used it extensively. Did you have trouble with cleanup? I have found that denatured alcohol is the best for removing the residue.
I didn’t really have any problems. I after each session I would use mineral sprits with a rag or 000 steel wool to clean it up and check out the grain. the only thing that was a PIA was the very bottom, or lowest point of the checkering. It took forever to raise that and sand out to the point it wasn’t visible.
 
I was trying to think the other day what I used on epoxy paint on aircraft. Turco. Stuff was amazing, it made paint loosen right up and we wiped it off.

Now, because it left a nice little scar on my forehead, I would test it on wood before I used it. it didn't seem to affect aluminum. the scar came from it splashing up when pouring back into the main can. I flipped my safety glasses down at the last minute and they got splashed. I threw them away. It'll tear up plastics but I don't know what all it does to other materials like wood.