I know gorilla glue is good for your hair, but is it ok to glue in pillars with?
I am Waiting for some Devcon so I can bed it.
I am Waiting for some Devcon so I can bed it.
- Thread starter supercorndogs
- Start date
JB Weld would be a better cheap choice, I use it all the time
What makes JB weld a better choice for the job?
Ok, so, first off, I’m not a materials engineer, so the advice is worth what you’re paying.
I could speculate that the ground metal gives the epoxy much more resistance to shattering (which I’m confident it does), but the reality is that a) That shit is rock solid on everything I’ve used it on, with no perceptible shrinkage, and b) Many folks who bed are perfectly happy with it.
Not ever have I seen Gorilla Glue recommended, and at least for me, that silence is telling.
And JB Weld really is cheap, I’m nearing the end of my first pair of tubes after two years of various low-stakes bedding activities and will cheerfully buy again.
Don’t get me wrong, I turn to the Devcon for full action/pillar beds, but JB Weld is fine for stuff that doesn’t have to be dimensionally perfect across a 2” span (minor percentage of expansion/contraction isn’t so minor at that scale).
I could speculate that the ground metal gives the epoxy much more resistance to shattering (which I’m confident it does), but the reality is that a) That shit is rock solid on everything I’ve used it on, with no perceptible shrinkage, and b) Many folks who bed are perfectly happy with it.
Not ever have I seen Gorilla Glue recommended, and at least for me, that silence is telling.
And JB Weld really is cheap, I’m nearing the end of my first pair of tubes after two years of various low-stakes bedding activities and will cheerfully buy again.
Don’t get me wrong, I turn to the Devcon for full action/pillar beds, but JB Weld is fine for stuff that doesn’t have to be dimensionally perfect across a 2” span (minor percentage of expansion/contraction isn’t so minor at that scale).
Jb weld is a solid material.
Gorilla glue that I’ve seen is all sorta foamy almost when it dries, like it’s got lots of air in it like a denser expanding foam. But they have so many types maybe not the one you’re gonna use.
Gorilla glue that I’ve seen is all sorta foamy almost when it dries, like it’s got lots of air in it like a denser expanding foam. But they have so many types maybe not the one you’re gonna use.
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It is the original formula pictured. The foam is what comes out of the joint, because what is inside expands as it dries. That seems good when gluing in pillars.
Oh! Yeah, no, not good. You’ll have a hard time getting a good, clean, flush trim on the foam without marring the stock, and it’ll look a mess even if you do get it flush. JB Weld won’t grow, it’ll just flow a bit if you put in on too soon; wait 30-45 mins and it gets pretty manageable.
But, I just processed that you’re talking about putting pillars in before doing a full bed job. I’d recommend doing them at the same time; there’s a guy that actually sells a DVD that shows his whole process for $38 and that’s how he does it and how I learned. He does a lot extra that I don’t, but you can pick and choose which steps you want and don’t. I have the DVD, if you don’t want to spend that money (super worth it IMO if you’re gonna bed more than one gun) I can loan it to you in about a week and a half. Tons of great info, delivered in a very dry, droll Southern accent. Highly recommend.
Stress-Free Pillar Bedding
richardscustomrifles.com
Another vote for jb weld. Cheap and it works
A video using various types of stress, rotational, weight ( down force ) , etc. You might want to advance out around 4 min.
IMHO Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane based adhesive more suited for direct contact material bonding. It won't have anywhere near the compressive strength of epoxy. Are your pillars slightly floating in the stock holes, or are they an interference fit? The ploy Gorilla glue will remain somewhat flexible and let the pillars float around. If you already have Devcon coming then just use it...
They fit nice and tight, just like the instructions on the GG call for. I don't think it will flex after the glue expands and cures. I think it will lock the pillars in place. I could be wrong. Last time I did it, I was gluing a pillar back in. So I only used it on one pillar. Then bedded. But I shot it quite a bit and the bedding never cracked or anything around that pillar. It seems to me like the pillars don't take very much stress.
Now I am kind of interest to glue some bolts in some holes in a board, and see if there is an appreciable difference. I would guess if the hole is tight, the GG will work better, and if the hole is loose the epoxy will work better.
I like to work from the bottom up on M5 bottom metals, that way I can set the metal even with the stock in inlet from the get go. Hopefully this DBM is ok. It appears like the guy who had it was shooting it with no pillars installed. Just the giant gaping holes, and the action screws appear to have been tightened so tight, it bubbled the the DBM under the action screw and forged threads into the hole. I had to drill them out and file it flat.
Now I am kind of interest to glue some bolts in some holes in a board, and see if there is an appreciable difference. I would guess if the hole is tight, the GG will work better, and if the hole is loose the epoxy will work better.
I like to work from the bottom up on M5 bottom metals, that way I can set the metal even with the stock in inlet from the get go. Hopefully this DBM is ok. It appears like the guy who had it was shooting it with no pillars installed. Just the giant gaping holes, and the action screws appear to have been tightened so tight, it bubbled the the DBM under the action screw and forged threads into the hole. I had to drill them out and file it flat.
If you're just securing the pillars in the stock prior to bedding then GG is probably fine. Just make sure there is some kind of mechanical lock cut into the pillars and the stock.
Gorilla glue expands and moves stuff around. A 5 minute epoxy is sufficient for holding pillars in place. Once the Devcon sets up there is nothing to worry about.
Why glue them in place. leave them loose and bed the rifle. They will never move after that. and might be straigther in the stock.
I used the Devcon 10110 for bedding because I can get it in the single serving sized tubes. I don't like how runny it is, but I do like the smooth surface finish when its done.
I don't think there are any boating supply stores around here. I almost ordered marine tex on accident thinking i used it last time instead of Devcon. Is it a little thicker than Devcon? I have not tried marine tex but it seems to be one of the big 2 that gets recommend a lot.
I don't think there are any boating supply stores around here. I almost ordered marine tex on accident thinking i used it last time instead of Devcon. Is it a little thicker than Devcon? I have not tried marine tex but it seems to be one of the big 2 that gets recommend a lot.
I've used both Devcon and Marine Tex and the results were both good. I might have a slight bias toward Devcon, if for no other reason than it is more expensive (so, it must be better
). I'm pretty much using Marine Tex from here on out. Good results, cheaper and good availability. Does marine tex work about the same for flush cups, and bolt knobs and stuff?
I have bedded a lot of actions, bottom metal, scope base with Marine Tex and tested it for years. I also use it to fill in pitting in cooling systems in diesel engines and rebuilt them years later to find the repair still as good as the day I did it. I have tested it for shrinkage, crush / load carrying, solvent resistance and have always been satisfied with the results. Just prep the material properly, mix it correctly, and cure it in the correct temp and your good to go. I like how it's a little thicker (creamy peanut butter) so it's easy to work with. Just pay attention to how you mix it and apply it to prevent air bubbles.
Oh I only use the gray, not the white.
I don't always bed a rifle, but when I do, I prefer Devcon!!!! or Jb weld works good as well, the long setting type anyway for maximum hardness
Its been a while, and ive forgotten a bit so forgive me if something is off.
when i used to work with gorilla glue, wed only use it on damp wood. not furniture grade with only 8-12% moisture. i believe gg was a polyurethane glue. The ooze out of the joints, material was pourus, and actually held water moisture in our out door furniture. It also crushes easily when it is old. It worked ok for our uses. But id never let it near a firearm for ant reason.
i just cant see how this could be possibly be the results you desire.
