Recent content by ArcticFun

Thanks for the tip but I haven't been able to find that either after spending most of the day trying to. I am curious if anyone has tried reloading for pistols with Alliant Steel? It is supposed to be a slower burn than Bluedot. I will admit to being more than a little hesitant to try reloading...

Tad late of an update but it looks like he is going to contact Colt and try and obtain an archive letter from them for the pistol. I think he's fairly set on keeping the pistol just as a piece of history.

As the title says I'm looking for alternative powders to use for reloading 10mm Auto. They are going to be used with 150gr JHP Noslers and HSM 180gr Hard-Cast Round Nose bullets shot out of Glock 20SF with a Lone Wolf 4.60" stock replacement barrel. I'm having a hard time finding all the typical...

Thanks for the quick replies. The serial number is C190465 on the pistol (Cant find one on the .22LR kit) which puts it at 1939 for commercial manufacture. I have no clue on that holster though as far as manufacture, I'll dig it out again here tonight when I get home. Step-dad had an offer at...

Alright those are the photos that I have, if any detailed pictures are needed then let me know and I will do what I can. I do know the pistol is in firing condition and according to my step dad is accurate as well. Not sure as to the condition of the .22LR conversion. That hasnt been shot to my...

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My stepdad recently picked up a colt 1911 govt model circa 1939 with what appears to be a factory .22LR conversion for it. It also came with a leather holster as well. Curious as to what the price range for these firearms goes for? He picked it up for $100 at a garage sale. The barrel is...

Yes that was the question. Taking a look at it again I would need a third FCG pin to make it function as a select fire. From my understanding I would simply need a FCG capable of select fire and a registered auto sear. Is that wrong?

I picked up a LWRCi M6A2 this weekend and as I was taking to apart I noticed a lot of similarities between it and an M4A1 lower, specifically that it looks like I can drop a Select Fire trigger assembly/safety selector in it and go. I'm simply curious if that is the case or if I would have to...

Re: Suppressor build - Need some input I am a machinist by no means but a way it could be done is have everything from the blast baffle forward welded into a sleeve that would slip inside the main tube of suppressor. The tolerances and machining would have to be spot on so there would be no...

Re: Suppressor build - Need some input One of the reasons I posted this here was a little input on the overall design. One thing I found out is that once assembled I can't do any repairs or have any extra parts without another tax stamp. So for me to be able to test a second set of baffles I...

Re: Suppressor build - Need some input That's a big heads up. I'll try the 6 first and when funds become available I'll get the second Form 1 sent in and try a 7 baffle design. I know my machinist is more than qualified for the type of work and tolerances required to do this but I would...

Re: Suppressor build - Need some input Thanks again. The goal is for the baffles to be removable. I will probably have both the 6 and 7 baffle design built and do some testing of my own once my Form 1 gets approved. Hopefully it won't take too long and I can post back here with results.

Re: Suppressor build - Need some input I could add .24" to the overall length and change the spacing to .08" between each baffle to get 7. So the spacing between the blast baffle and the first cone would be .86" and drop by .08" till the final spacing at the end would be .30". Now would the...

Re: Suppressor build - Need some input I did a little reworking of the design. Shortened it, made it a smaller overall diameter, added a baffle, cone to the blast baffle like suggested but retained the variable spacing. Any cons to the spacing I have now?