Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread
- Thread starter bogeybrown
- Start date
My NDA has lapsed so heres some pics of a part I was making for a on going Nuclear Reactor plant construction.
Nitronic 60 steel alloy. Cuts like diamond but sure does leave a purty finish.
You big bunch of evil bass turds!!!
I know… now EVERYONE knows!!!
@TheHorta did NOT kill himself!
Big Weld will NEVER silence me!
And this whole time I thought I sucked at welding.
I know… now EVERYONE knows!!!
@TheHorta did NOT kill himself!
Big Weld will NEVER silence me!
And this whole time I thought I sucked at welding.
Silicone is the thinking man's duct tape.
Here's me welding the stripped out speed cable nut on my Jeep.
Here's me welding the stripped out speed cable nut on my Jeep.
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I don't think the x-ray is going to be your friend.You big bunch of evil bass turds!!!
I know… now EVERYONE knows!!!
@TheHorta did NOT kill himself!
Big Weld will NEVER silence me!
View attachment 8785368
And this whole time I thought I sucked at welding.
You need a PCC apron with this stained on it.
I’m sorry, PCC is industry short hand for Portland Cement Concrete, instead of Asphalt Concrete.
I remember those classes, but they were back in the early ‘90’s. What helped me was working in the Campus Farm Shop and later as a Machinist Lab Assistant. The other big help was becoming the engineering department for a manufacture and working closely with the machinist making the tooling we used. HDPE extruders and tubing dies were interesting to work on.
Now I’ve been doing road construction projects. The Ag Engineering background has helped here too.
16" sch.80. Did some 12" sch.80 also. Wall thickness on the 12" was .688"
Not sure what it was on the 16" and being a reducer, they're always thicker than the pipe. Root at 145, hot pass at 256, filler at 325, cap at 256.
I used to work at a PWR, you said new project.... Seems like the closest thing to something actually getting built is Terrapower. I almost went to work from them. Relocating to Wyoming or Washington at some point wasn't an option. I wouldn't have minded Wyoming, wife can't do the elevation.
Any one know where I might find printable tubing notch templates? I used to have some but cant find. Saddle cut 1.75 dom on a 45*. I would freehand normally on a simple cut but 4 of these have to be pretty close to fit between frame rails. Have had no luck searching.
Longest weld I have done since pacemaker install... I guess I will be OK. weld is good enough.
Longest weld I have done since pacemaker install... I guess I will be OK. weld is good enough.
@Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
Does this help?
www.blocklayer.com
Does this help?
Pipe Notching Templates - Inch
Calculate print and cut pipe notching templates - Wrap, mark cut and grind to shape - Inch
www.blocklayer.com
I tried that one but could not figure out how to get it to work for tube to flat plate. saddle cut i think it is called.@Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
Does this help?
Pipe Notching Templates - Inch
Calculate print and cut pipe notching templates - Wrap, mark cut and grind to shape - Inch
Attaching the the DOM tubing to the rail will be a straight 45 degree cut and not notched. Attached is a link to a YT videos showing how to make a template and should work for what you need. The critical thing when making the cut will be rotation for all four cuts to fit flush against the rail.
If that doesn't work let me know and can make a template with my tube bending software.
If that doesn't work let me know and can make a template with my tube bending software.
That was interesting but my drafting skills/tools are as non-existing as my CAD skills.
I have an older cheap/free version of Bend-tech but of course the template button is grey.
I use Bend-Tech and see if I can get you something by next week. The software is on my computer at home.
So if the angle is a strait 45 degree can you not just set up a fence / backstop for some type of chop saw?
The frame looks straight and parallel, I would probably stress more over finding the perfect center.
Maybe center the tubing and make a transfer block with a scribe in it to slide along the rails and mark the tubing then add the offset of the scribe block.
I have marked some very expensive parts like that for the mic.
You could also take 4 square edged blocks, clamp 2 together drill in center the diameter of your tube.
Position your brace clamp blocks under them up against the rails.
When you flip it over you can scribe off that edge.
The frame looks straight and parallel, I would probably stress more over finding the perfect center.
Maybe center the tubing and make a transfer block with a scribe in it to slide along the rails and mark the tubing then add the offset of the scribe block.
I have marked some very expensive parts like that for the mic.
You could also take 4 square edged blocks, clamp 2 together drill in center the diameter of your tube.
Position your brace clamp blocks under them up against the rails.
When you flip it over you can scribe off that edge.
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