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Often, the scratches are caused by a burr adjacent to the air bleed hole in the die. Not all dies have this feature, Redding do not, another cause is leftover polishing media they use to final finish the die walls. It is extremely hard and difficult to remove. My 264WM dies I just bought had it...

I use a Davidson vise mounted to my bed on the truck. I only use this for my hunting rifle switch barrels. I have it bolted to the bed permanently in an out of the way postiin Normally at a match I just spin my barrels on, never seen a difference in performance not torquing them up to spec. If...

Well, I just boogered up one of the screws in the scope base holes because of the locktite or whatever it is...and why don’t they use Allen or Torx head screws, stupid slotted screw broke on the first attempt at removal. Never seen a set of scope hole screws so tight in my life. I bought 2 of...

I prefer nickel personally on stainless barrels/actions, but would use the same on Titanium. I run 100lbs/ft only if the rifle is not a switch barrel, if it is a switch barrel, I run it hand tight then a very slight ‘nip’ up, maybe 10-20lbs/ft tops. Cheers.

All of my pinned lugs, all are double pinned by the way, just slip off. It’s not a resistance fit by any means. Removing the pins is another matter, as they are a resistance fit in my actions by .001” minimum. You will need a slide hammer if this is the case. Cheers.

That is a very good question. Never thought of that, lol. I do like the case to ride on the follower, which is not possible with the action not altered. I will take your response in mind as I never thought of that until now. Cheers.

Hi all, Building a Rem 700 LA S/S with a 6.5SAUM Bartlein 1:7” 31” barrel for F-class. Question is: What do I need to open the action to suit the fatter cartridge? At present, the action is for a belted mag, the SAUM case does not fit between the rails, I have never attempted this before on a...

Many moons ago I used 7828 with very good results. The accuracy was good, however this powder is not very temp stable and I found it fluctuates between cold and hot climates. I had better results with RE25, which did not swing as much in velocity. Cheers.

I choose my brass, load some cases with a traditional die, then measure and order my Forster die and get it honed to suit. It doesn’t matter what die you use to get your measurement first. Borrow a die or ask for a dummy round off the forum/gunshop.

The easiest method for the DIY crowd is to buy a kit, these generally come with destructions, pre cut to length aluminium pillars and guide screws/centering cones. Brownell’s are a very good source for these kits. There are also generic kits that are adjustable to suit different actions, these...

I see a few are slightly cratered, this is normally a bolt face issue, but when primers are flat, this may be on the verge of high pressure.

I had similar trouble after sonic cleaning....no longer do it. Even now, I run powdered (fine) graphite on a nylon neck brush in all of my necks. I run the brush into a bottle of graphite, tap off all excess and run into the neck a couple of passes then size the case. Because I use expanders...

You are correct....my bad. Cheers. :giggle:

Firstly, where did you obtain Lapua brass in 300WM? I have some (300) from the 1980’s, yet to lose a single case to splits or loose pockets in the 50 I use in F-Class Open. My necks are skim cut to .0145” and I used a .336” -.335” bushing when I was using bushing dies. Cheers. :) Edit to add...