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If you're going manual, last year I experienced using VFD lathes at my Universities lab for the first time(mechanical engineering/CAD-CAM student). I own a geared head 13x40 Jet w/ DRO at home and now sometimes I miss dialing in rpm's on the fly with a VFD, fine tuning if you will... but it's...

I think that's a Savage? A friend of mine and I both have .338LM FCP's and the bolt face surface finish is a "little rough". I've seen this condition in several other Savage's, in other cartridges and Savage rifle models also. Load development for pressure signs with my .338LM went up to...

:love:(y)

Aluminum pillar beds are not outdated... there are very well founded reasons for using them in a composite stock as well as wood. Plastic(composites) compresses as well as wood, and yes even aluminum compresses, however aluminum is BY FAR superior to plastic as far as compressive strength goes...

They look great to me, the only thing missing is aluminum pillar bedding/block at that price point. The amount of machine work involved in their manufacture process probably accounts for the price... i also realize an alum pillar bed might not be everyone's cup of tea. Material-cost-wise...

I live and shoot at 4600 fasl (western colorado) @ ranges out to 2k yards (with access to 2miles) using 6.5cm, 308win, 7rm and 338lm. At 2k yards... using any non-magnum short action cartridge, with perfect dead calm environmentals and perfect 0fps ES ammo tuned for your barrel and perfect...

I did some experimenting using ar400 +1/2" thick with 5.56 up to 338 LM. My 338LM would punch holes clean through it until I got out to 500 yards in which it deformed(dents, not just pointy divots, REAL dents) the ar400 significantly. At +800 it was producing very slight surface deformation...

I had this issue with a couple builds and I don't exceed 65 ft/lbs of torque (to me... 55-60 ft/lb is ideal torque). Here's what I do... I start with a very clean barrel nut and receiver threads(and mating surfaces). After cleaning always re-apply a very light amount of anti-seize or grease...

I've been using a REM PSS in 7mm for 8 years now. Accuracy is great and has never been finicky with loads using a .010" jump to lands. I've been messing with a buddies 260rem and its a fantastic cartridge also, however when the wind picks up when shooting ELR, no bueno.

I have a 110fcp, over 600 rounds thru it and love it. I replaced the stock muzzle brake with a Ross Schuler brake. I chose 110fcp over the 110ba because of the weight, and the HS Precision stock feels great. I haven't adjusted the trigger, I prefer 1.5-2lb Timney's and my 110FCP's felt...

Rifle: 110fcp, 1:9 twist, 26" barrel, Ross Schuler Brake, Vortex PST 6-24. Reloading Components: Lapua brass, CCI250 and H1000 used on all loads. Am very curious about RL33. I've tested 250SMK, 300SMK, HORN285, BERG300 and BERG250's (tested at least 100 of each bullet). Of all the bullets...

With my 338lm, i discovered that I was overloading the bipod. It doesn't take much, just touch it to shoulder and light press. My cheekweld wasnt consistent either, 338lm takes getting used to! Dead weight on the stock with cheek, as if you're about to take a nap. Worked for me. I ended...

I've also been very happy with the Hornady's 285 bthp. Just as good as a Berger 300 imo. I've used 300 & 250 SMK, Berger 300 & 250 and of course the Hornady 285. I rank them in this order: 1. Horn 285 2. Berg 300 (very close to 1rst) 3. Berg 250 4. Sierra300 (very close to 3rd) 5...

I've also been very happy with the Hornady's 285 bthp. Just as good as a Berger 300 imo. I've used 300 & 250 SMK, Berger 300 & 250 and of course the Hornady 285. I rank them in this order: 1. Horn 285 2. Berg 300 (very close to 1rst) 3. Berg 250 4. Sierra300 (very close to 3rd) 5...

Another vote here for H1000. I've used FED 215M primers and the cups seemed soft so I switched to CCI250's and i'm not going back. Using a .010" jump for bullet seating, I've pressure tested with the forementioned components and am up to 92 grains of H1000 with Berger 300gr. hybrids, seeing...

Personally, I like just under 1/8" of uniform float. It all depends on how comfortable you are at handling epoxy/filler and sanding using appropriate sized dowel rods to perform touch-up work prior to painting. It looks like your float is just under 1/4". Figure out how much you'd like to...

I used to work for Yamazaki(Mazak) in Florence Kentucky. I started out in the electrical department, learned how to wire both CNC lathes and mills from the ground up(lights, encoders, mainboard, CRT... you name it) . From there they moved me to scraping, which thankfully didn't last that...

+1 Rhenerie. I set a quality bubble level on my rail, level rifle. Use a black plumb line against white wall, level scope/reticle and torque down rings. I test using Rthur's method, except I goto 200yards on a calm day and level the target and print/shoot a 2 foot vertical line of shots...

I've been using a PST 6-24x50 SFP on my 110fcp 338LM with over 350-400 rounds to date. It works great, no problems, tracks true. I use a GG&G cantilever ring mount with the scope and has been used on my PSS in 7mm mag and SPS in .308win. With the 338LM I've scored hits on targets out to...

Re: .308 Rem 700 SPS Tact good for me? It's a great rifle to start with, mine has the 26" barrel... xtra 2" gets me a lil more velocity for lobbing lead way out to 1000+yds, and 2" of barrel isn't going to get in the way. I also upgraded the trigger to a Timney, adjusted to 2 lbs. I...