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Recoil springs usually go for 2K rounds or so on a full sized pistol, so I'd say start there with your troubleshooting. If a fresh spring doesn't get it, I'd take a hard look at extractor tension.

The fact that you had your extractor "tuned" recently may be a clue. Who tuned it and what did they do? Did they adjust tension only or was a file involved? Tuning a 1911 extractor takes skill and experience. Too much tension or a sharp or improper angle on the bottom of the extractor can...

Here's a pretty good thread that discusses what I think you're asking about. http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/sniper-hide-gunsmithing/194590-case-head-seperation-remington-700-help.html#post2538237

Since we're talking silly and pointless, how about .260 Remington if you're serious about getting out to 1K. Great barrel life and you get the superb BC of the 6.5mm projectiles.

I'm afraid that's part of the price of admission with sub compact pistols in a high performing caliber. They need to be sprung heavily to ensure they cycle with their shorter barrels and feed ramps. I wouldn't plan on it loosening up much at all and if it does, it's probably time for a new...

If you have an Apple or Android Tablet, try out Skimble Workout Trainer. It's got tons of routines pre-built and also allows you to build your own workouts. You can select from routines that only require body weight or limited equipment (dumbbells, jumprope, etc.). I like it as it gives you...

Thanks for taking the time to put this together. I've been watching for a deal on a solid lathe, but haven't come across the right one yet.

I had problems with my CM9. The barrel was peening badly around the lock-up surfaces after shooting around 200 rounds (50 +P) through it. Not sure if the barrel steel is different between the 2 guns, but I replaced the CM9 with a PM9 and haven't seen any issues with peening. I had the same...

If you just need to do the occasional piece, this is a cheap option. I used an old toaster oven and took some snips and cut out a circle in the top to fit a duct flange. Used pop rivets to attach the flange to the oven. Put on enough duct for a long gun, wrapped it in duct wrap, and put on a...

Gempro 250 is great for weighing bullets and cases as someone mentioned above, but too slow for me with powder. It's probably great for the BR guys, but for my purposes, the RCBS Chargemaster 1500 combo unit works great and is what I would go with if I was outfitting again. There's a couple of...

A piece of pipe slipped over the action wrench to work as a cheater bar has always got mine to budge.

I went through the same questions regarding the Sierra vs. Hodgdon data and decided to start at 40 grains. Apparently my gun likes its loads on the lighter side. My most promising groups came at 40 and 42 grains of Varget under a 168 gr SMK seated at 2.820 OAL. FGMM brass and BR-2 primers. I...

I'm surprised that you were able to remove Cerakote with the reducer. Was this oven cure Cerakote? I believe in their instructions, NIC says the only way to remove it after curing is via abrasive blasting. Looking forward to more info on your process.

I wouldn't worry about removing lube or anything like that. Per the application guidelines from NIC, the metal parts need to be soaked in a degreasing solution and then everything gets baked out in an oven prior to spraying. As far as shipping, one of those plastic Plano gun cases should be...

I just picked up a 700 ADL in .243 from our local Academy Sports last weekend. The price here in Alabama was $379. Still a great deal for a donor action.

This is interesting. I just checked two of my rifles using the solder method that Chad described. The first, a 700 action with a Shilen barrel mic'd at .007 and the second, a custom job (TAC30 with a Broughton Barrel) mic'd at .011 I guess they're both OK unless I get some debris in the chamber.

That would be one massive scope ;)

This is key. Towards the end, I was only turning the reamer one revolution at a time before checking headspace. Cleaning the chamber thoroughly prior to checking headspace is also critical as a chip in the wrong place can make you think you've got more to cut when you really don't.

Interesting point. I may have to try my hand at bedding.

It's in a HS Precision stock with an aluminum bedding block. I may try bedding just ahead of the lug to see if I get any improvement.