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2022- Best .22 LR Suppressor?

hafejd30

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  • Feb 27, 2019
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    What’s the opinion on best .22 LR suppressor?

    TBAC takedown, SilencerCo Switchback, dead air are a few I’m considering

    Priorities are:

    1) Accuracy/repeatability
    2) Easy cleaning

    Reading what I can find for info here. Figure I’d ask for current opinions as most threads for this are a year or more old

    Thank you
     
    I have a TBAC and it’s nice. Easy to clean and easy to take a part.

    I don’t know if it is the BeST but one thing I would research is suppressors that are better for catching all the crud that .22’s drop back down the barrel and into your action.

    My TBAC is very bad about that and it will jam my Vudoo the heck up. I have to carry that rifle muzzle down and take suppressor off anytime I’m gonna be transporting it. I forget often and tip barrel up and then spend the next hour taking the gun apart and cleaning the action up. It’s annoying.
     
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    The best .22LR suppressor is without a doubt the Dead Air Mask HD. It's one of (if not THE) quietest .22LR can on the market, it's baffles are designed concentrically, so it's a precision suppressor, and it has zero first-round pop. It's also one of the most durable and toughest (rated up to .17 HMR and 5.7x28) .22 cans on the market being that the baffles and end caps are made of 17-4 stainless, and the tube is Grade 5 titanium. The baffles lock together to seal the leading and carbon building in the baffles, so it doesn't affect the outer tube, and the baffles won't ever get stuck in the tube to where you can't take it apart (foolproof). I've never had an issue with my Mask HD dropping crap back into the bore or into the action of my guns, but I also clean my suppressor every 350-500 rounds, so I don't let a lot of crap buildup in it that could potentially cause an issue. Regular .22LR suppressor maintenance is paramount, as .22LR ammo is nasty to shoot.

    Also, the 17-4 baffles can be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner without damaging them. Do not put the tube or end caps in there, it will remove the cerakote finish.

     
    What’s the opinion on best .22 LR suppressor?

    TBAC takedown, SilencerCo Switchback, dead air are a few I’m considering

    Priorities are:

    1) Accuracy/repeatability
    2) Easy cleaning

    Reading what I can find for info here. Figure I’d ask for current opinions as most threads for this are a year or more old

    Thank you
    This is such a crazy question that literally has NO answer. There are a ton of excellent options out there.
     
    This is such a crazy question that literally has NO answer. There are a ton of excellent options out there.
    It does have answers. Many people own the cans I’m asking about and I know some likely own 2 or all 3 of them. People prefer certain cans for things like repeatability/accuracy (which TBAC is know for). As well as ease of cleaning a can because .22 will need to be user serviceable. Also if you shot multiple cans you can attest to things like first round pop, shift when suppressed vs not and things like weight/length. Which can be a factor to many

    @FuhQ provided an excellent response to my question and is exactly the info I’m looking for

    My top choices currently are TBAC and the dead air. I just talked to my dealer which I shoot for on their fclass team. Looks like I’ll be doing accuracy testing on several .22 models for his shop in the coming weeks. Including the ones mentioned above. So I’ll test on my B14R and see for myself

    But knowing what you guys think is nice to. If you have a brand that generally sucks or carbon locks all the time those are things I’d like to know

    So thank you to those contributors to this info
     
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    Full disclosure... I only own a Mask and have another in jail so one can be permently attached to my squirrel rifle. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say they are all quiet but the mask doesn't vary much at all from first shot to last. Cleaning is stupid easy if you have a pin tumber. Throw the baffels in, add hot water, and a squirt of Dawn, turn it on and walk away for 24 hours. The tube can go in a US. The end caps get a soak in CLR, followed by a trip through the US, and then hit with brake cleaner to displace any water hiding in the 17 little holes drilled in the barrel end cap. The front cap carbon can be difficult but I found a tool that makes an awesome scraper if there is problematic carbon. An aluminum pipe nail! Costs about $1.50 and works great! Might leave some aluminum kisses on the inside but you aren't going to see them so....


    pipe nail2.jpg


    P.S. I agree with @FuhQ about the cerakote on the end caps and it is what it is. They take on a cool gunmetal gray patina and I hit them with Lucas oil. Not wanting a beauty queen and I've burned the cerakote off centerfire tubes. I'm cool with ugly but functional but I'll be damned if I can hurt the cerakote on the tube. That stuff is fucking TOUGH!!!
     
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    I'm actually planning on purchasing ANOTHER Mask HD as we speak. I want to keep one on my Christensen Arms Ranger 22 permanently (since it's my precision, and my favorite rimfire rifle), and another one to swap around between my other rimfire rifles and pistols.
     
    It does have answers. Many people own the cans I’m asking about and I know some likely own 2 or all 3 of them. People prefer certain cans for things like repeatability/accuracy (which TBAC is know for). As well as ease of cleaning a can because .22 will need to be user serviceable. Also if you shot multiple cans you can attest to things like first round pop, shift when suppressed vs not and things like weight/length. Which can be a factor to many

    @FuhQ provided an excellent response to my question and is exactly the info I’m looking for

    My top choices currently are TBAC and the dead air. I just talked to my dealer which I shoot for on their fclass team. Looks like I’ll be doing accuracy testing on several .22 models for his shop in the coming weeks. Including the ones mentioned above. So I’ll test on my B14R and see for myself

    But knowing what you guys think is nice to. If you have a brand that generally sucks or carbon locks all the time those are things I’d like to know

    So thank you to those contributors to this info
    My point was that, especially in the 22LR category there are a ton of options that fit what you are looking for.

    Hence the main thing that results from these types of generic threads are usually brand loyalty.

    Given there are people that are considering buying a can from some no name company that operates out of someone's garage, in which case I would shy away from that. But of the majority of the better known manufacturers most of them will make a great can that would be different from the others usually in smaller nuanced ways. Keep in mind this refers only to rimfire suppressors.

    With that being said general "which one is better" questions are typically not specific enough questions.

    If anyone wants to get a bias confirmation that can happen to anyone but a truly objective examination would show 7 or 8 cans (or more than that) that easily meet the requirements.

    In other words among the top tier of manufacturers it would be hard to make a bad choice, that is unless there are some more specific requirements. For example not all cans can shoot 5.7. Some cans are substantially heavier than others. Some require special tools to take apart the can, but others not so much. Some baffles you can throw into a wet tumbler but others not so much. There are a lot of things that differentiate cans depending on the needs or preferences of the end user.

    With that being said just do your research and odds are you will be happy with whatever you get.
     
    I have two Tbacs. Would recommend but have no experience with the others mentioned, so I cannot give any type of comparison. Can confirm that the cans can and will drop debris down the barrel and into the action. I have had no failures of the action due to this but it is annoying and a PIA to clean. So, I do not shoot suppressed at matches any longer as barrel up and stored in a rack is the norm. It is exceptionally quiet and easy to clean as it can be taken apart. I do suggest cleaning often as this makes cleaning much easier. Although I do not believe there is a negative performance issue with a dirty can. In fact, I've read the opposite to be true. A dirty can can be quieter than a clean one. There is nothing more pleasant than shooting a suppressed, sub sonic .22.
     
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    We all have such varied experiences. The rimfire gun I shoot the most is a Tikka .22LR. I clean gun and suppressor every 1000 rounds. I store the rifle muzzle up in the safe and only remove can to clean. I've never noticed any crud falling down into the action. Given that baffles are kinda like little funnels, I don't see how one brand could be better than another. On this rifle I use a TBAC 22TD, Quietbore kit, and another Form 1 from ECCO. I've not tried my new Mustang on the rifle. I specifically wanted for a handgun. I have been cleaning the AL baffles every 500 rounds and will probably stick with that.
     
    See my post above... That video was made 6 damn years ago. Neither the TBAC or the Rugged existed at the time.
    Didn’t realize that

    Obviously the SilencerCo switchback wasn’t around either

    Which leaves out 2 I’m currently considering
     
    Nod goes to the TBAC from me only because those are the only ones I see around here and what I personally own. Baffles are numbered and only fit together one way for repeatability. No FRP that I ever experienced in 10k plus rounds I have through mine. Accuracy remained the same on my vudoos at 100yds (6x5 targets avg @ 100yds was 0.6moa). Baffles are 17-4 as well and came be cleaned in CLR or ultra sonic.

    Pick one between the dead air or the TBAC, you won't regret either.
     
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    Didn’t realize that

    Obviously the SilencerCo switchback wasn’t around either

    Which leaves out 2 I’m currently considering
    My only gripes about the Rugged (and I own an Obsidian 45), is that modular cans are kind of stupid. They seem neat, and they seem practical and multi-use, but in the end, they really aren't very good in the short configuration, so you end up keeping them in the FL setup anyway. This is why I like the Mask HD...It's not too long (I think 5.5" OAL), and it does just as good, or better than, most of the newer modular cans, that are even longer in full-configuration. Plus, it's just tough as damn nails. It was designed like a little mini-Sandman. If you look at the outside of the can, that's exactly what it is made to resemble.
     
    It's a rimfire. Pretty much all the current options will do what you are asking. I think you are overthinking it.

    To add more confusion and another option - don't overlook KGM.

    But seriously - any modern rimfire suppressor does what you need/want.
     
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    I only own one, the Mask HD. There is no FRP that I can tell. With my AR22, there isn't no POI shift at all. With my bolt action, there is about a 4 MOA shift.

    I have not cleaned it yet, so not sure how that will go.
     
    Full disclosure... I only own a Mask and have another in jail so one can be permently attached to my squirrel rifle. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say they are all quiet but the mask doesn't vary much at all from first shot to last. Cleaning is stupid easy if you have a pin tumber. Throw the baffels in, add hot water, and a squirt of Dawn, turn it on and walk away for 24 hours. The tube can go in a US. The end caps get a soak in CLR, followed by a trip through the US, and then hit with brake cleaner to displace any water hiding in the 17 little holes drilled in the barrel end cap. The front cap carbon can be difficult but I found a tool that makes an awesome scraper if there is problematic carbon. An aluminum pipe nail! Costs about $1.50 and works great! Might leave some aluminum kisses on the inside but you aren't going to see them so....


    View attachment 7954323

    P.S. I agree with @FuhQ about the cerakote on the end caps and it is what it is. They take on a cool gunmetal gray patina and I hit them with Lucas oil. Not wanting a beauty queen and I've burned the cerakote off centerfire tubes. I'm cool with ugly but functional but I'll be damned if I can hurt the cerakote on the tube. That stuff is fucking TOUGH!!!
    What size pins do you use for your tumbler?
     
    Nod goes to the TBAC from me only because those are the only ones I see around here and what I personally own. Baffles are numbered and only fit together one way for repeatability. No FRP that I ever experienced in 10k plus rounds I have through mine. Accuracy remained the same on my vudoos at 100yds (6x5 targets avg @ 100yds was 0.6moa). Baffles are 17-4 as well and came be cleaned in CLR or ultra sonic.

    Pick one between the dead air or the TBAC, you won't regret either.

    I disagree with the bold part. I have a TD22 and the locating feature on the baffles still allows the baffles to be rotated relative to each other. In fact, even in the directions it instructs the user to align the baffles up by eye when reassembling after cleaning.

    To answer OP's question, I'd go with the TD22 if you are worried about weight (for me that only matters on a pistol and even then just marginally). Otherwise I'd get the Mask. I have both and shooting them side by side on different hosts, I did notice the lack of FRP on the Mask. The TD22 still had a bit.

    There's a bit of fanboying when questions like these are asked as it seems like most folks are only going to recommend what they bought without comparison to the other options.
     
    I disagree with the bold part. I have a TD22 and the locating feature on the baffles still allows the baffles to be rotated relative to each other. In fact, even in the directions it instructs the user to align the baffles up by eye when reassembling after cleaning.

    To answer OP's question, I'd go with the TD22 if you are worried about weight (for me that only matters on a pistol and even then just marginally). Otherwise I'd get the Mask. I have both and shooting them side by side on different hosts, I did notice the lack of FRP on the Mask. The TD22 still had a bit.

    There's a bit of fanboying when questions like these are asked as it seems like most folks are only going to recommend what they bought without comparison to the other options.
    This is the type of experience I’m looking for thank you
     
    If I ever get my oculus, I will let you know. It's been over a year now but I liked some features of the rugged Oculus so that's what I went with. My other option was the Mask
     
    Agree 100% on the CLR @padom but I have found (on my Mask) some lead build up on the clipped area of the baffles so I tumble to knock if off. IF the baffles look super crudy the get a 45 minute soak in the CLR to soften any carbon then into the tumbler! Come out looking like new!
     
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    I disagree with the bold part. I have a TD22 and the locating feature on the baffles still allows the baffles to be rotated relative to each other. In fact, even in the directions it instructs the user to align the baffles up by eye when reassembling after cleaning.

    There's a bit of fanboying when questions like these are asked as it seems like most folks are only going to recommend what they bought without comparison to the other options.
    It's not like it's remotely difficult to align a line. The baffles snap together very well. They are not about to rotate once assembled to one another.

    Totally agree with the fanboy comment.
     

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    It's not like it's remotely difficult to align a line. The baffles snap together very well. They are not about to rotate once assembled to one another.

    Totally agree with the fanboy comment.
    No it's not difficult but the features are less robust than the Mask's in my opinion. They can still rotate though, not 90 or even 45deg but it's still there. The mask has "V" shaped notches to snap the baffles together that constrain rotation better than the "L" shaped notches that the TB22 has. If I remember correctly, the TB22 directions say to snap the baffles together then align the notches. The V shapes make alignment a no brainer and more repeatable more easily.

    I don't have mine in front of me to compare directly but it was something of note when I first disassembled them.
     
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    My $16NZ Aliexpress 'solvent trap' works just as well as my DPT modular on my M&P 15-22 as far as noise reduction goes.
    It's a little larger and the finish isn't quite as nice but sounds the same to the ear when shooting it.

    I'm going to buy another couple in 1/2x20 thread to try on some of my bolt actions.

    FVszZ8H.jpg


    zEdXFBQ.jpg
     
    @Sniff If I'm not mistaken, aren't moderators (Suppressors, silencers) a non-regulated and non-serialized item in NZ? Also, isn't barrel-length non-regulated as well?

    Here in the States, suppressors require extensive paperwork and are federally regulated under the National Firearms Act of 1934. So are any rifles with a barrel length under 16". 😕 It's the dumbest shit ever, but it's what happens when tyrannical government douchebags go unchecked, and idiot people get tricked into giving up their rights under the guise of "public safety". 🙄
     
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    @Sniff If I'm not mistaken, aren't moderators (Suppressors, silencers) a non-regulated and non-serialized item in NZ? Also, isn't barrel-length non-regulated as well?

    Here in the States, suppressors require extensive paperwork and are federally regulated under the National Firearms Act of 1934. So are any rifles with a barrel length under 16". 😕 It's the dumbest shit ever, but it's what happens when tyrannical government douchebags go unchecked, and idiot people get tricked into giving up their rights under the guise of "public safety". 🙄
    Suppressors are pretty much unregulated, although I think, technically now we are supposed to have to have a firearms licence to be in possession of them as an 'arms Item' under new laws brought in after the Christchurch Mosque shootings.

    Otherwise we just buy them over the counter like a sling or a scope. Or, if you prefer make them in our garages, or import fuel filters and solvent traps. I've got about 25 or so, of all different type and calibres.

    We have a bunch of companies making them here in New Zealand or there's lots from overseas to try (mainly Europe).

    Barrel length is irrelevant as long as the total length is more than 762mm (30 inches). Less than that it's a pistol with special endorsements needed to own.
     
    It's a rimfire. Pretty much all the current options will do what you are asking. I think you are overthinking it.

    To add more confusion and another option - don't overlook KGM.

    But seriously - any modern rimfire suppressor does what you need/want.
    need to find someone with a tac ops 22 and see how it stacks up
     
    Suppressors are pretty much unregulated, although I think, technically now we are supposed to have to have a firearms licence to be in possession of them as an 'arms Item' under new laws brought in after the Christchurch Mosque shootings.

    Otherwise we just buy them over the counter like a sling or a scope. Or, if you prefer make them in our garages, or import fuel filters and solvent traps. I've got about 25 or so, of all different type and calibres.

    We have a bunch of companies making them here in New Zealand or there's lots from overseas to try (mainly Europe).

    Barrel length is irrelevant as long as the total length is more than 762mm (30 inches). Less than that it's a pistol with special endorsements needed to own.
    Good info to know. That's what I was thinking, but I wasn't aware of the 30" or less for a total weapon OAL for rifle/pistol rule.

    It's amazing how our (American) gun laws are so much more lax compared to the rest of the world, yet, we still regulate the dumbest things, because the greedy government can tax it, and force it to be regulated for their illegal gun registry.
     
    need to find someone with a tac ops 22 and see how it stacks up

    Does @MikeRTacOps make a .22 suppressor? I know he does the integrally suppressed Green Hornet. I haven't heard or seen a stand alone .22 suppressor from TacOps, would be cool to know if such a product exists...
     
    The best .22LR suppressor is without a doubt the Dead Air Mask HD. It's one of (if not THE) quietest .22LR can on the market, it's baffles are designed concentrically, so it's a precision suppressor, and it has zero first-round pop. It's also one of the most durable and toughest (rated up to .17 HMR and 5.7x28) .22 cans on the market being that the baffles and end caps are made of 17-4 stainless, and the tube is Grade 5 titanium. The baffles lock together to seal the leading and carbon building in the baffles, so it doesn't affect the outer tube, and the baffles won't ever get stuck in the tube to where you can't take it apart (foolproof). I've never had an issue with my Mask HD dropping crap back into the bore or into the action of my guns, but I also clean my suppressor every 350-500 rounds, so I don't let a lot of crap buildup in it that could potentially cause an issue. Regular .22LR suppressor maintenance is paramount, as .22LR ammo is nasty to shoot.

    Also, the 17-4 baffles can be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner without damaging them. Do not put the tube or end caps in there, it will remove the cerakote finish.

    +1
     
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    Likely be getting the paperwork in on a dead air mask in next couple days. Been busy but finally some time to get back to this plan

    Anyone have anything to add before I make the decision that I should consider?
     
    I use the short version of the Oculus on my Kidd 10/22. So handy and with segmented subsonics it is quiet enough.

    The TBAC I own can be a pain to unscrew from the muzzle. It can disassemble itself. Supposedly one can pull hard as you unscrew it and it won’t disassemble, but that’s a hit or miss in my book.
     
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