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Suppressors .22 can cleaning trick

BurnOut

DDOJSIOC
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 24, 2013
1,826
797
Dallas
After doing some research on how best to remove lead from the core of a Sparrow, I have come across something interesting... a way to chemically dissolve the lead (gotta love the Internets). I am only in the testing phase at this point, but so far I have confirmed that a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide WILL dissolve lead. I have also confirmed that the mixture will not (immediately) dissolve/etch/damage steel (more on this in a moment). Before I get too far, a word of caution:

THE MIX OF VINEGAR, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, AND DISSOLVED LEAD IS TOXIC (LEAD ACETATE). IF YOU USE THIS METHOD OF CLEANING, ENSURE THAT YOU TAKE APPROPRIATE PRECAUTIONS REGARDING THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF ALL CHEMICALS.

To date, my testing has consisted of mixing the white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide in a 1:1 proportion in a drinking glass (which will no longer be used for drinking, obviously), and dropping in a lead fishing weight. After seeing the reaction begin, I dropped in a deck screw to test the effects on steel, going so far as to position the tip of the screw adjacent to the lead weight. After an hour, the reaction was still going strong, and the mixture had turned a dark grey/black color. Moving the weight around in the glass, it was also black in color. The screw, after being removed from the mixture, showed no visible damage/etching on the part that was submerged in the mixture. Not having the patience to wait while the entire weight dissolved, I removed the screw from the mixture, and poured the mixture into a marked container for future disposal. I did not rinse the screw, but instead simply set it aside to observe its condition over the next few days.

Even if the screw remains undamaged, the next question is whether or not the vinegar/hydrogen peroxide mixture will damage the finish on the Sparrow. The experiment continues...
 
I just tumble my sparrow baffles in my stainless steel media with some lemishine and Dove dish soap. cleans it up lickety split.
 
its called the DIP no it will not effect the color of the sparrow, some claim hydrogen embrittlment (weakening of the metal), have yet to see any damage on my can after at least 100 dips. The byproduct is really toxic I end up taking it to the fire dept haz-mat round up and paying $15 to get rid of the stuff. If your looking for a less toxic option simple green and a ultrasonic cleaner
 
its called the DIP no it will not effect the color of the sparrow, some claim hydrogen embrittlment (weakening of the metal), have yet to see any damage on my can after at least 100 dips. The byproduct is really toxic I end up taking it to the fire dept haz-mat round up and paying $15 to get rid of the stuff. If your looking for a less toxic option simple green and a ultrasonic cleaner

Yeah, so, I'm a bonehead. When seeing references to "the dip", I was assuming something like Berryman's Carb Dip. I didn't figure that I was blazing a trail with this info, but figured that it'd be useful for some. Glad to hear that I can truncate my testing and get on with the de-leading of my Sparrow core... ;-)
 
That same mix is supposed to dissolve aluminum as well...so you might be careful about which suppressors you dip.
 
"I just tumble my sparrow baffles in my stainless steel media with some lemishine and Dove dish soap. cleans it up lickety split."

+1
 
As has been said, the Sparrow baffles will be fine in the dip. It's probably the most used cleaning method for cleaning a 22 can. It's safe for Stainless and Titanium, just can't use it on aluminum baffles. And thankfully you have enough sense to use some gloves, it's some nasty stuff once it gets loaded up with a bunch of lead, very effective though.

Only do your blast baffles though, I wouldn't go using it on anything else as it's just not needed.
 
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good info here
as i am new to cans,
just picked up my sparrow, an was going to ask, how to clean.
any other was of getting the lead out.
YO
 
Question...Would this method be useful to clean a Thunderbeast 22S-1 titanium suppressor? The thunder beast is not able to be taken apart, and I'm wondering if this would be a good way to give it a regular cleaning?
 
Question...Would this method be useful to clean a Thunderbeast 22S-1 titanium suppressor? The thunder beast is not able to be taken apart, and I'm wondering if this would be a good way to give it a regular cleaning?

Yes...or send it back to thunderbeast and let them clean it for free and not worry about the hazmat.
 
This thread had me thinking back to my welding days. And even though it doesn't have to deal with cleaning persay. Has any one had luck spraying the baffles with anti-spatter or coating the baffles with nozzle dip used in welding? Just a thought. I remember steel welding spatter not sticking to the area at all after spraying the area with the anti spatter.
 
This thread had me thinking back to my welding days. And even though it doesn't have to deal with cleaning persay. Has any one had luck spraying the baffles with anti-spatter or coating the baffles with nozzle dip used in welding? Just a thought. I remember steel welding spatter not sticking to the area at all after spraying the area with the anti spatter.
I was just thinking about that while reading this article. I used to use the cooking spray 'Pam" & I'll try it on my newish < 100 rnds Sparrow.
 
Well, this will come as no surprise to the folks that have used this cleaning method before, but for those who have not, the vinegar/hydrogen peroxide dip worked like a champ on my Sparrow core. It's FINALLY clean to my satisfaction.

I ended up dipping it twice... the reaction slowed down, so I pulled it out and had to knock some carbon off of it, then re-dipped for about half an hour. Good stuff.