28 Nosler vs 300WM for elk

nexusfire

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I am wanting to build an elk hunting rig that runs a suppressor so barrel length is a factor. Also factory ammo availability is also a factor. Any of you guys have experience with both. I also would be letting my 14year old son shoot it. Any help is appreciated.
 

WeiserBucks

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Both will cleanly take any elk that ever lived out to any reasonable distance.

The real question is barrel length and brass/ammo availability . WM does better with shorter barrels, brass and ammo is ALWAYS available. 28 Nosler really likes a longer barrel and brass availability is often sketchy at best . Factory ammo is generally available online but good luck finding it on the shelf at a store .
 

Caveman0101

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You'll need a brake on either if a 14 year old is going to shoot it without flinching. I'd suggest getting him his own gun to shoot 280rem, 7mm08, 260rem all have light recoil almost no recoil with a brake. If a young person ever starts flinching it is hell to get them to stop. But if your hell bent on it whichever you get, get a brake or a can, and some sort of recoil reducing stock.
 

nexusfire

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You'll need a brake on either if a 14 year old is going to shoot it without flinching. I'd suggest getting him his own gun to shoot 280rem, 7mm08, 260rem all have light recoil almost no recoil with a brake. If a young person ever starts flinching it is hell to get them to stop. But if your hell bent on it whichever you get, get a brake or a can, and some sort of recoil reducing stock.
He shot his elk this year with a 6.5 creedmoor but it took 3 shots in the bread basket at 500 yards. He has shot a cheap load of p dogs and has good fundamentals. Looking for something with a little more sectional density. It would be used with a can.
 

schmi015

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You'll need a brake on either if a 14 year old is going to shoot it without flinching. I'd suggest getting him his own gun to shoot 280rem, 7mm08, 260rem all have light recoil almost no recoil with a brake. If a young person ever starts flinching it is hell to get them to stop. But if your hell bent on it whichever you get, get a brake or a can, and some sort of recoil reducing stock.
OP's first sentence " I am wanting to build an elk hunting rig that runs a suppressor so barrel length is a factor."\

I'd take a look at 300wsm or 7saum. 7Saum might be harder to find factory ammo but I love my 300wsm with TBAC ultra 7, its a stellar gun. It's taken 2 mule deer one at 180 yards neck shot and another at 630yds through the lungs. At 630 it had a pencil size hole going in and a thumb size hole going out, it dropped dead on the spot and internals were jelly.

I also believe that adding a break and making your rifle loud and unpleasant to fire is more likely to induce a flinch as opposed to a suppressor which changes the recoil impulse and makes it much more pleasant to fire the rifle. A suppressor isn't as effective as a break but shooting suppressed usually help with accuracy/precision.
 
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Caveman0101

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Sorry, I have 0 experience with what a suppressor does for felt recoil however, I have an abundance of experience teaching kids to shoot. Just wanted to stress avoiding getting the whole flenching thing started. I'll read more carefully next time sir.
 

schmi015

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No worries. Adding a suppressor can take a rifle that kicks pretty good and turns it into a long slower push. I find that when shooting with just a break i eventually start to flinch cause i anticipate the muzzle blast. Throw on the suprresor and you can focus on fundamentals, and it makes it so pleasant to shoot. Best way to start a kid is with a suppressor. Makes it like they're shooting a .22 I don't mind recoil, i really don't like the blast concussion. I've suppressed most of my rifles, everything from .22 to .375 cheytac.