Are you using a Mag.? 2.845"OAL seams a tad long unless you are shooting a Tikka ?
- Thread starter Two Shoes
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With AI AW mags or AICS ARC mags you can go out to 2.965" if your freebore allows.
The only thing I've loaded that long is the PVA 178 Seneca solids, they're 1.5" long.
Not sure what the FN mag will take?
@Mooseknuckles - Damn based on that target I might need to drop down and try looking for a lower node of Varget. That's a hell of a 10 shot group. Did you shoot that with bi-pod/bag or with a good front rest?
On the target it's labeled FN SPR A1 so 24" bolt with hammer forged barrel.
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I use the same mags in my RPR. And my Varget gives me the same MV at 42.0 grs as you've stated out of my 24" Krieger barrel . . . only I've loaded the 175 SMK's to a COAL of 2.860.
I shot the group prone with a bipod and rear bag.
This has been a good to load for a while now. The rifle has alway shot well, even with 168 eld m and 175 Berger bullets, but it seem to love 175 smk.
I had actually considered selling the rifle to build another custom rifle but when it shoot this well I have a hard time letting it go.
Yes I am using FN TBM mags. They have just a bit more room than a standard aics mag. Just wish I could still get 10 round mags for it.
Just check and I can seat @ 2.900 with the fn tbm mags.
Fantastic. Just curious how it groups out at 1290?
Ya know, since the internet says 308 can’t go past 800 yards. Lol
1290 was my limit, ran out of scope elevation in the turret.
Well I couldn’t tell you what my group was but I was very constant hitting a 14 inch gong. Wind is the big factory. Learned that when I shot the nrl hunter match.
Apparently, "internet" hasn't yet used the 169 or 177 SMK's???
Apparently, "internet" hasn't yet used the 169 or 177 SMK's???
Or 168 and 178 ELDs or 178 BTHP. All shoot well past 1000.
Hey 308 shooters, any Remage barrel owners here?
I have a stock action 700P I'm thinking of going the Remage route . Having had a lot of luck doing just that on a Savage 12 (223) I figured it was worth a shot.
Also as I primarily shoot 200Y is there an accepted twist/bullet that is "best" for that distance?
For example in 223 the 80.5 Berger through a 1-7 was tough to beat.
Thanks for your help guys!!
I have a stock action 700P I'm thinking of going the Remage route . Having had a lot of luck doing just that on a Savage 12 (223) I figured it was worth a shot.
Also as I primarily shoot 200Y is there an accepted twist/bullet that is "best" for that distance?
For example in 223 the 80.5 Berger through a 1-7 was tough to beat.
Thanks for your help guys!!
1-10 168 and up
1-11.25 168 and up
1-12 twist with 168smk.
1-11.25 168 and up
1-12 twist with 168smk.
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For short range of 200 yds probably 12, 11.25, twist, 155 to 190, with the 168 gr being very popular, but what ever your barrel likes. ..or go 30 Br 17 twist 118 gr bullets for super accuracy, instead of 308 Win. inside 200 yds.
For a 7.75 lb hunting rig I chose 22" Bartlein 9 twist. And shoot everything from 130 to 250 gr Atips ... although it should have an 8 twist for 250 gr Atips, but its also for LR and likes 200 SMK and 230 SMK, to 130 gr Speer Varmint. I chambered and threaded mine, but Southern Precision Rifles "bugholes" has the Remage line and bug nut to go with it in quality barrels like Bartlein. Bought quite a few barrels from them.
I used the same Rem 700 action, trued it , chambered the 9 twist barrel, muzzle brake, bolt knob, in a used Rem Police stock, inleted for Magpul bottom metal, (plastc), and 2.990," in cartridges out of the detachable MDT mag. $600 for the whole project, for all around carry rifle, also capable of long range, way past 1000 yds...just in case.
For 200 yards your twist rate probably doesn't even matter. The best shooting bullets at that distance are going to be lighter, flat base bullets.
My 308 was a 12 twist and the last thing I saw through the scope before I sent it to the gunsmith for a new barrel was my bullet hitting a 5" steel target at 504 yards in a match.
Were I building a brand new .308 I'd choose 11.25 or 10 twist but my 12 twist one served me just fine for longer than I care to admit before I retired the barrel.
My 308 was a 12 twist and the last thing I saw through the scope before I sent it to the gunsmith for a new barrel was my bullet hitting a 5" steel target at 504 yards in a match.
Were I building a brand new .308 I'd choose 11.25 or 10 twist but my 12 twist one served me just fine for longer than I care to admit before I retired the barrel.
That's the key word. Are you only shooting at 200 yards or will you be shooting farther? Would be something you need to figure out before choosing a barrel.
200 is a chip shot for a .308 so if only 200 yards you might even think about changing calibers when doing a remage.
I would love to go the 30BR route. However. .. I don't see that listed as an option for the Remage barrels. Granted, I bet they could make me one, but depending on cost I might as well go the custom prefix barrel. Then an action.. brass... bullets... dies...
Man, it adds up quickly!
I'm glad you mentioned the FB bullet, that's probably the route I'll end up going.
Let me put it to you like this...
95% of my shooting is off a bench @ 200Y. So this rig will be designed for that.
I had hoped some Criterion Remage owners would chime in. The one on my 223 shoots great. Probably avgs .6moa @ 200Y from this very avg shooter. I'm hoping to do better with 308 though.
I think you'll find (as have many benchrest shooters) that flat base bullets are more consistent in the real world, even though there is no obvious reason to believe they're inherently more accurate other than that they're easier to make consistently.
Preferred barrels has the 30 BR on their chamber list. This is a very accurate cartride and definitely worth considering...barrel life is ridiculously long, fairly economical to shoot.
It's been a caliber I've been considering for quite some time. Life is too short to live without one..LOL.
Have a quick question. So I’m pretty new to reloading, and I bought a Redding 308 premium deluxe 3 die match set. I’m reloading on a lock n load AP press, but I keep having problems with getting stuck cases. Seems like no matter how much I clean the brass, or lube the cases I get them stuck. Is there a better FL sizing die out there for 308? The other two work great, I’m just getting super frustrated with how many stuck cases I’m getting.
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
When you say stuck case, do you mean that the base of the case pulls out of the shell holder and requires a stuck case remover to get it out of the die, or do you mean that the case comes out of the die difficultly? Are you actually ruining the case?
Most definitely ruining the case. It is pulling out of the shell plate it gets so stuck. I am trimming the brass back to spec, and this is a small base die but my full length die does the same thing. I screwed it up trying to get another case out of it.
What I have to do to get these out is use a 1/4 tap to get it threaded and use a socket and washers and wrench to get them out.
What I have to do to get these out is use a 1/4 tap to get it threaded and use a socket and washers and wrench to get them out.
Attachments
What lube and how are you applying it?
I was using Hornady one shot case lube. I was spraying it on the cases and in the die sometimes.
Did you let it dry completely before attempting to resize? Spray the whole body?
I like an alcohol/lanolin like the dillon case lube, but you also need to let that flash off - you cant just spray and go. I keep a tin of imperial die wax just in case, that stuff you can just spread and go but it's slower to do it case by case.
Exactly. Spray it with one shot and then let it dry for a couple minutes and then size. Been using one shot for a long time on many calibers and never a stuck case.
Did you try to size in the standard first before the small base? Is there a reason you are using a small base die?
Did you try to size in the standard first before the small base? Is there a reason you are using a small base die?
The only reason Is because I screwed up my regular full length size die. I need a new one but I’m getting thermal soon so I can’t buy anything else right now. Lol
Plus when I ordered another FL size die I got sent a small base die, so I just kept using it. When I can I’ll get another FL size die from Redding and try again.
Plus when I ordered another FL size die I got sent a small base die, so I just kept using it. When I can I’ll get another FL size die from Redding and try again.
Your problem is what I often hear using One Shot and I also had the same problem when I first started reloading. I switched to Imperial Sizing Die Wax and haven't had any issue since for many years now. So, you might consider changing lubes???
Only when they do not use it correctly. Every time I heard about an issue and questions were asked it was found the user did not read the directions and follow them.
Here is your solution. I use Imperial sizing die wax exclusively and have NEVER stuck a case, or had dings on the shoulders from using too much. I've also ran about a thousand L.C cases, shot through an M240, using a Small base sizing die that took some muscle to size. Still no stuck cases or seared case heads. Granted, it may take a little while longer to lube each case versus spraying a batch. But, switching to Imperial sizing wax could prove beneficial for you if you have had multiple stuck cases with spray lube.
Just sayin'.....
The Imperial wax will not let you down but it is slow.
I followed instructions on one shot and one that may get neglected is the request to clean any other lubricant out of the die first.
One shot, like most Hornady products is half ass and could be better.
I followed instructions on one shot and one that may get neglected is the request to clean any other lubricant out of the die first.
One shot, like most Hornady products is half ass and could be better.
I’ve not even had the time to pull it yet. I need to get a tap and get it out. I’ll post a picture when I get to it.
Before I went to lanolin and alcohol I used Hornady Unique case lube... Paid $4 for the little tub 4 years ago and I haven't used 1/4 of it up yet.
If I only need to lube a handful of cases I'll still use it instead of alcohol/lanolin.
I have a big spray can of One Shot. Never used it as case lube but it kicks ass for lubing the ram on my press.
Mike
If I only need to lube a handful of cases I'll still use it instead of alcohol/lanolin.
I have a big spray can of One Shot. Never used it as case lube but it kicks ass for lubing the ram on my press.
Mike
Does N150 typically give the same or similar results as N140 with 150-155gr bullets for most barrels?
Primarily for a factory 20" Tikka barrel 1:11, but will also be used with factory 22.7" Tikka barrel, Scar 17, and a few others.
The 20" barrel had good groups and velocities with N140 for 150-155gr bullets but 1) I'd like to consolidate to only N150 since I can use it with 175-178gr bullets as well and 2) 1lb jugs of N140 out of stock everywhere now and I don't want to buy a 8lb jug given that I only occasionally shoot 150-155gr projectiles and have no other calibers that need N140.
If it matters, IMR4064 shot fine too but the rifle recoiled much more harshly with this powder and 150-155gr than this same rifle with pretty much any other powder/bullet combo, including heavier bullets that I typically shoot or any factory ammo. Other powders I tried with 150-155gr didn't shoot well at all.
Primarily for a factory 20" Tikka barrel 1:11, but will also be used with factory 22.7" Tikka barrel, Scar 17, and a few others.
The 20" barrel had good groups and velocities with N140 for 150-155gr bullets but 1) I'd like to consolidate to only N150 since I can use it with 175-178gr bullets as well and 2) 1lb jugs of N140 out of stock everywhere now and I don't want to buy a 8lb jug given that I only occasionally shoot 150-155gr projectiles and have no other calibers that need N140.
If it matters, IMR4064 shot fine too but the rifle recoiled much more harshly with this powder and 150-155gr than this same rifle with pretty much any other powder/bullet combo, including heavier bullets that I typically shoot or any factory ammo. Other powders I tried with 150-155gr didn't shoot well at all.
Vihtavuori tables suggest that N150 might give slightly higher velocities. With some bullets you might get into compressed loads with it.
If you already have N150, go and try some loads, and see if you like the accuracy out of your rifle(s).
Rifle reloading data | Handloading | Rifle calibers | Centerfire Rifle bullets | Reload your own ammo - Vihtavuori
Vihtavuori offers rifle reloading data for numerous calibers and bullets for match and hunting purposes. Never exceed maximum loads.
www.vihtavuori.com 
I just bought some Berger 175 otm’s to test in my rifle. I have R15, Varget and AR Comp. Anyone have a pet load with the otms and those powders?
FYI I'm shooting 178ELD M with Varget. Get good results with 43.5grs.
Have you tried AR-Comp? This has replace my Varget as my go to powder as I get very good results and I like that the deposits in the bore are much easier to clean.
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What bullet are you shooting with AR comp? I have been having great results with it in .223 but haven’t experimented with it in .308 much yet.
168 SMK, 169 SMK, 175 SMK and just recently tried some 177 SMK's that worked well with AR-Comp. I like the 169's best for my target shooting from short range to 1000 yds out of my 26" Krieger barrel.
What’s your load with 175s? MV?
40.5 grs AR-Comp, COAL: 2.869, Primer: Fed 201M, Brass: Lapua - case capacity 55.9 g H2O, MV: 2680 fps, Ambient Temp: 88°F
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Haven't been able to find any available but it is on my list of powders to try.
On the flip side, N150 is pretty consistently available for me.
Alliant AR-Comp
Alliant AR Comp Smokeless Powder. Buy at Powder Valley, the Reloading Superstore. Best Prices Guraanteed.
www.powdervalley.com Not , to throw "another fly in the ointment", but then there is VVN 540. It runs (+-) about $8.00 / # more than 140 or 150, and produces about the same FPS as 150 , epically with the 168 + Wt. bullets . probably no more differences that other powders in other manuals. It comes down to what your rifle & bullet like at the distances you shot.Vihtavuori tables suggest that N150 might give slightly higher velocities. With some bullets you might get into compressed loads with it.
If you already have N150, go and try some loads, and see if you like the accuracy out of your rifle(s).
Rifle reloading data | Handloading | Rifle calibers | Centerfire Rifle bullets | Reload your own ammo - Vihtavuori
Vihtavuori offers rifle reloading data for numerous calibers and bullets for match and hunting purposes. Never exceed maximum loads.
Like the woman from Saturday Night Live used to say Ain't it always something
Gentlemen I have a question, I’m running a Redding small base die and I noticed that I’m having some resistance closing the bolt (The rifle is a savage 110 tactical) that I don’t get with factory ammo. Brass is trimmed to spec and properly sized…do I need to incorporate a body die into my progressive press to bump the shoulder to make the cases chamber easier? Do I need a FL non small base die? Would that solve this problem?
It could be a headspace issue where you're getting more springback than you thing with some cases (especially if you're not annealing). Take measurements of everything (like at the diameter at the .200 line above the base; the diameter just below the shoulder/body junction, the cases headspace measurements) on your fired cases and your sized cases to see what's really going on. Then report back with the numbers.
