I have shot 123 Custom Competitions out of my 22" 6.5x47. I didn't have the chrono out that day, but they were hitting targets at 1150 without an issue. 12.3 mils.
The load was mild, using IMR 4320, that was meant for 100-600 yard targets.
Just throwing a quick one out there for anyone looking at the 130 OTM Bergers and h4350.
Lapua brass BR4 primer
41gr h4350
Berger 130 OTM
26” barrel at 5200’ elevation and I am getting 2910fps. Please work up to this. It is hotter than what I shoot outta my Manbun with the same bullet. But man it shoots lights frickin out outta the x47.
Lapua brass BR4 primer
41gr h4350
Berger 130 OTM
26” barrel at 5200’ elevation and I am getting 2910fps. Please work up to this. It is hotter than what I shoot outta my Manbun with the same bullet. But man it shoots lights frickin out outta the x47.
The only 120 grain bullet that I shoot in my 6.5x47 is the Nosler ballistic tip. It’s pushed with H4895 to 2910 fps. That’s my hunting load. I’ve shot thousands of the 123 Lapua Scenars pushed with RL15 to 2930 fps. Velocities are from 24-26” barrels. I tried several different powders but these worked the best for me.
I shoot the 120gr Scenar-L out of one of my 6.5x47s. I have it going a bit slower than most, but I'll need to get my firing pin bushed with the next rebarrel. If I get much hotter I get some ridiculous catering.
I don't know where the photos went on my phone, but this combo holds up well at distance too. Below I was just checking my windows of optimal seating depth and charge weights. Just five shot groups.
I don't know where the photos went on my phone, but this combo holds up well at distance too. Below I was just checking my windows of optimal seating depth and charge weights. Just five shot groups.
What weight powder charge of 4895. I shoot 120smk’s out of my x47 sometimes because I have a bunch of them. I have been using Varget.
I’d hate to give that information out. That load is shot out of a well worn HH marksman barrel that is only used for hunting now. It was my first 6.5x47 barrel for competing in PRs. You will need to work up for your own safety. Probably start around 35 grains.
Thank you. Not sure what QL is but I like it.
Thank you
Quick load. It’s a predictive loading program
Need some input on a head scratcher.
Built a x47 about 16 mo ago. Bought 500 round of Lapua factory 139 ammo to get started, and for the brass, with the intent to not hit my primer/bullet powder supply while I sorted the gun out. Figured it would be solid and get me rolling.
And it was. After shooting a few hundred, I worked up a solid load with Berger 130, Varget and Fed 205m. I was shooting 2880 with 37.2, and this was 1.5 gr below pressure on a warm spring Las Vegas day.
Cut to about 6 weeks ago, I decided to shoot up the rest of the Lapua 139 factory ammo and reload them. Went to a club match, it was 40 degrees and not very pleasant. And I got heavy bolt lift, and even blown primers. With factory ammo.
So I switched to my handload, Berger 130 with 37.2 Varget. Same damn thing - pressure, heavy bolt lift, serious scarring of the lettered face of the case from the ejector. The last one I fired was kinda stuck, so I just packed it up and left.
So I can't figure out how/why I had pressure on a 40 degree day, with both handloads and factory ammo. I've shot both of these with no issue for the past 9-12 months, and now they both make me nervous. My handloads are about 1gr over book for Varget, but I've never seen an issue with them in over 200 rounds. And also with Lapua factory ammo?? I can reduce my handload powder charge, but what do I do with 200 rounds of factory?
Something off with the rifle? Any clues on where to look are very welcome.
Built a x47 about 16 mo ago. Bought 500 round of Lapua factory 139 ammo to get started, and for the brass, with the intent to not hit my primer/bullet powder supply while I sorted the gun out. Figured it would be solid and get me rolling.
And it was. After shooting a few hundred, I worked up a solid load with Berger 130, Varget and Fed 205m. I was shooting 2880 with 37.2, and this was 1.5 gr below pressure on a warm spring Las Vegas day.
Cut to about 6 weeks ago, I decided to shoot up the rest of the Lapua 139 factory ammo and reload them. Went to a club match, it was 40 degrees and not very pleasant. And I got heavy bolt lift, and even blown primers. With factory ammo.
So I switched to my handload, Berger 130 with 37.2 Varget. Same damn thing - pressure, heavy bolt lift, serious scarring of the lettered face of the case from the ejector. The last one I fired was kinda stuck, so I just packed it up and left.
So I can't figure out how/why I had pressure on a 40 degree day, with both handloads and factory ammo. I've shot both of these with no issue for the past 9-12 months, and now they both make me nervous. My handloads are about 1gr over book for Varget, but I've never seen an issue with them in over 200 rounds. And also with Lapua factory ammo?? I can reduce my handload powder charge, but what do I do with 200 rounds of factory?
Something off with the rifle? Any clues on where to look are very welcome.
How you cleaning? How often? Have you put a bore scope down it? Sounds like you might have a carbon ring.
Yep, I'd definitely but a bore scope into the chamber and look for the carbon ring before doing anything else.
If you don't own one, you can get a Teslong for about the same cost as 100 pieces of factory Lapua brass, or 50 rounds of factory loaded ammo.
If you don't own one, you can get a Teslong for about the same cost as 100 pieces of factory Lapua brass, or 50 rounds of factory loaded ammo.
Carbon ring was my first thought. I scoped it, there was moderate carbon
I'm typically cleaning it after 40-50 rounds. Bore guide with Bore Tech C4 and Iosso blue brushes. I did wonder if my bore guide was maybe restricting the brush/solvent access to the front of the chamber/leade area.
Yes, and I hadn't thought about that until your question.
It was raining. The rifle was under an awning on a bench, but the wind had blown rain onto it - mostly from the front left if I was behind the gun - while we were waiting. I don't believe any rain would have made it into the action, but it is possible the loaded magazine was wet.
Ok, it may be that you have to inspect everything, make sure the chamber, barrel, and ammo are all clean and try again.
When the brass has been exposed to water or oils, it is not hard to get false positives on the brass because the brass doesn't grip the chamber.
Hello, wath type/brand of head space bump gauge are the best for this caliber?
I use Hornady lock n load head space bushing C375 but Reading CIP plans I find that the head space diameter are not .375" but .3771...
Can this differenze make some fake measures on the head space finding?
Have in the market some head space gauge more precise respect to Hornady
I use Hornady lock n load head space bushing C375 but Reading CIP plans I find that the head space diameter are not .375" but .3771...
Can this differenze make some fake measures on the head space finding?
Have in the market some head space gauge more precise respect to Hornady
I think that the Short Action Customs headspace comparator kit is more precisely machined than Hornady's, but it is also much more expensive. I use Hornady's, but I also allow for .001 error.
Modular Headspace Comparator – Kit
This kit comes complete with 4 inserts of your choice, one long body, one short body and the stand. Please make sure you select 4 headspace or bullet inserts. Save $55.00 compared to purchasing individually! *** Solid Bullet Inserts are for bullets similar to Cutting Edge Solids Lathe turned...
shortactioncustoms.com Regarding using the C375 insert from Hornady: just take a reading on your fired brass with it, and then adjust your sizing die for ~ .002 less. The shoulder angle is in a straight line from the case body to the neck...so your datum point won't make a difference in the result of your shoulder bump.
Hello @diggler1833!I think that the Short Action Customs headspace comparator kit is more precisely machined than Hornady's, but it is also much more expensive. I use Hornady's, but I also allow for .001 error.
Modular Headspace Comparator – Kit
This kit comes complete with 4 inserts of your choice, one long body, one short body and the stand. Please make sure you select 4 headspace or bullet inserts. Save $55.00 compared to purchasing individually! *** Solid Bullet Inserts are for bullets similar to Cutting Edge Solids Lathe turned...
Regarding using the C375 insert from Hornady: just take a reading on your fired brass with it, and then adjust your sizing die for ~ .002 less. The shoulder angle is in a straight line from the case body to the neck...so your datum point won't make a difference in the result of your shoulder bump.
Thanks for the reply,
the gauge of your link are not sold on Italy, custom and shipping from USA are proibitive...
I arrange some test with my Hornady setup and your advice.
Thanks
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Hello friends!
I'm relatively a newbee of shooting and Reloading.
My experience are less than one year.
I started with 100 rounds of Lapua 136 Scenar-L farm loaded.
Until now I reload all my rounds but I'm not satisfayed of result of brass forming.
This as maked on my some doubt about my measurements and sizing procedure.
Can someone help and follow me on my measurements and sizing procedure?
I have RCBS standard fl die, Redding body die and Forster bushing neck die.
Hornady gauge for caliper.
My first dubt are this:
if I size my fired brass about .002" or .003" down I go out the SAAMI specs.
I have fear that this can make dangerous situation for the brass and first for me.
If I size the brass under the SAAMI specs I find the dropping closing of the bolt, but are below SAAMI specs for Headspace.
Thanks
I'm relatively a newbee of shooting and Reloading.
My experience are less than one year.
I started with 100 rounds of Lapua 136 Scenar-L farm loaded.
Until now I reload all my rounds but I'm not satisfayed of result of brass forming.
This as maked on my some doubt about my measurements and sizing procedure.
Can someone help and follow me on my measurements and sizing procedure?
I have RCBS standard fl die, Redding body die and Forster bushing neck die.
Hornady gauge for caliper.
My first dubt are this:
if I size my fired brass about .002" or .003" down I go out the SAAMI specs.
I have fear that this can make dangerous situation for the brass and first for me.
If I size the brass under the SAAMI specs I find the dropping closing of the bolt, but are below SAAMI specs for Headspace.
Thanks
I wouldn't worry about the SAAMI specs at this point; just focus on your chamber dimensions. So you've fired brass and it is now expanded to fit your chamber. You need to full length size it down by 0.002-003" so that it will reliably feed and extract from your chamber.
The only problem occurs when your brass hasn't been sized, so that it is too tight for your chamber OR if you size it too much and you have excessive headspace.
The only problem occurs when your brass hasn't been sized, so that it is too tight for your chamber OR if you size it too much and you have excessive headspace.
HI, I did some tests using the RCBS full length die.
The cartridge case fired in the rifle has a headspace length of 1.471" (37.37mm).
The recalibrated case measures 1.468" (37.29mm).
I tested this case in the chamber and the bolt lever closes with a certain force, not excessive but it takes a little force.
Nothing to do with what the videos online show where the shutter lever goes down almost by itself.
I measured the case again after chambering it and the headspace measurement decreased to 1.467" (37.27mm).
Now I'm wondering if I should stop at this point or should I go down further until the lever goes down almost in free fall, with minimal effort?
If you need a video say so and I'll post it. Thank you
So it sounds like you just need to bump the case shoulder a bit more until the bolt closes with a normal amount of force. Still, this is kind of odd behavior - usually 0.002-0.003" is enough for easy chambering. However, there are always outliers in any system.
Is the little bit of force cause by the case compressing the ejector?
In fact, it's not normal...
I believed that with the recalibration carried out I would obtain the desired result.
I lowered the shoulder by 3 thousandths of an inch as per advice and readings but the shutter doesn't work as it should.
To ensure that the shutter closes effortlessly, almost in a cascade, I tried to move down the shoulder until I reached 1.4645"~ (37.20mm).
With this headspace measurement I get very close to the force needed to close the shutter seen in the demonstration videos on YouTube.
But I'm at the limit of the specs...
What do you recommend me to do?
Thanks
That seems very odd to me. I wonder if there is something wrong with your chamber? Does new brass (out of the box) chamber without any force?
HI! Sorry if I didn't specify, I removed the ejector pin from the bolt.
#1 How is your primer seating? If you are .001 or so proud (you can feel the primer above the case head) that'll do it too.
#2 What action are you using? Not all are created equal (at all). Is your trigger "timed" to the action with a hanger?(that's a whole other topic)
#3 What comparator set are you using to measure headspace?
#2 What action are you using? Not all are created equal (at all). Is your trigger "timed" to the action with a hanger?(that's a whole other topic)
#3 What comparator set are you using to measure headspace?
Yes, with the brand new brass the bolt fall down with no problem.
#1 I decapsulated the shells
#2 I have a standard action, the factory one
#3 Hornady OAL gauge .375
Cover the case in ink and chamber it. Might not be headspace causing the bolt to have resistance
Who made your factory action? Who did the barrel?
Cases without primers ensures that my #1 question is answered.
If you're greater than .003 bump, and you're having to force the bolt home, I'm currently suspecting something with either the chamber or bolt face/head.
Action and barrell is made by Sabatti
Case painted and chambered don't touch on body and shoulder and neck.
Also the base don't touch more than the usual.
Hello folk!
I made some test today...
I've made test with fired cases (1.471" Headspace) usung the neck bushing die of Forster.
For obtain a smoothly closure of the bolt handle I've pushing the Headspace measures setting until 1.467" +- half thousand of inch.
With the RCBS standard FL die the good setting for a smooth closing of bolt handle is 1.466"
Now I thing to renew the FL die stuff.
So, about your experience, wath are the best non niche segment FL die, that I can purchase and are availlable also on EU?
FL die standard or Bushing?
I had the neck bushing by Forster.
Thanks, Camillo
I made some test today...
I've made test with fired cases (1.471" Headspace) usung the neck bushing die of Forster.
For obtain a smoothly closure of the bolt handle I've pushing the Headspace measures setting until 1.467" +- half thousand of inch.
With the RCBS standard FL die the good setting for a smooth closing of bolt handle is 1.466"
Now I thing to renew the FL die stuff.
So, about your experience, wath are the best non niche segment FL die, that I can purchase and are availlable also on EU?
FL die standard or Bushing?
I had the neck bushing by Forster.
Thanks, Camillo
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