" The lower your scope (closer to bore), the less the effect of any cant will have on impact. "
You might want to rethink that!
You might want to rethink that!
How much of an added issue on rings that are .25” taller? Serious inquiry as I don’t know.
A degree of cant is the same whether your scope is 2" above the bore or 6". It would be easier to detect with a scope at 6".
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Gotta love the internet..... “Which brings me to my next point children, don’t smoke crack!”
Well I finally bit the bullet and bought an AX308 from Mike @ Mile High. Dudes a rockstar for sure! Gonna be ordering up a 6mm Creedmoor barrel in a week or so, but got her out today to get it zeroed in. So excited to get more rounds downrange with it soon.
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So which theory on ring height/cant is correct?
Assuming the scope is leveled to the rifle... X amount of cant in the rifle remains x amount of cant in the scope regardless of scope height... However, line of sight does not stay the same thus amount of error does indeed change with scope height.
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Buy a quality mount and rifle, notice what thread we are in, and you will be fine. The old mentality of bore to optic centerline mostly had to do with PBR and less drop at 2-400yds. With precise tracking scopes PBR doesn’t matter anymore. The quality of rings, mounts, and rifle bases in the 21st century, greatly reduce cant (side to side/lateral, not to be confused with the built in cant of the rail itself/verticle). It’s not a factor to be concerned with anymore. My sight height is 2.5” above my bore, that would have “triggered” every old curmudgeon of the 1990’s, but now it’s common practice. Take a look at the firing line at a comp next time and you’ll notice everyone has an adjustable cheek piece and a mount that costs more than the scopes of the people complaining about height above bore. Just measure your sight height, input into your ballistic program and enjoy the sound of steel singing to you. My $.02
What are the benefits to the thumbhole stock skins?
Personal preference and maybe required in California?
Required?
Pistol grip is likely a problem in CA, but then again, the plastic in the skins is likely to cause cancer in CA.
Definitely not required. We have no restrictions on pistol grip bolt actions.
As long as you have an adjustable cheek piece to get proper cheek weld, and you measure your height over bore (which you need to do regardless) and input it to your ballistic program then is makes absolutely no difference in any manner.
To run NV and thermal clip on properly you need a 1.5” center height on a flat rail.
Did you take your AT out of the chassis as well or is this the same one done awhile back?
Damn very tempting! I wonder if it could be put in a manners or maybe KRG would do an inlet? They have one for the badger 2013 so maybe that’s close enough?
Here’s what the action and inlet looks like. Only had to trim and contour the trigger hanger.
This would make me very happy.
It looks so wrong but feels so right! haha
I am legitimately interested in how it shoots now, and how repeatable it is with barrel removal and re-installation. I believe there is special juju with the AI action being bonded to the chassis that is lost when bolting it in to a different chassis. The action is still the action, but you can't discount the effect the whole system has on consistency when it's bonded together.
And as much as I like the MPA chassis (I have one with a Mausingfield), I just can't shake the fact that the AT and AX systems are on a different level. The MPA chassis is great - I don't want to seem like a hater - but the tiny little set screws that lock down the wobble in the buttstock and cheekpiece, along with needing like 4 different Allen wrenches to adjust everything feel...cheap...when compared to the AI. The buttstock of the AX feels so solid and easy to adjust in comparison.
I am legitimately interested in how it shoots now, and how repeatable it is with barrel removal and re-installation. I believe there is special juju with the AI action being bonded to the chassis that is lost when bolting it in to a different chassis. The action is still the action, but you can't discount the effect the whole system has on consistency when it's bonded together.
And as much as I like the MPA chassis (I have one with a Mausingfield), I just can't shake the fact that the AT and AX systems are on a different level. The MPA chassis is great - I don't want to seem like a hater - but the tiny little set screws that lock down the wobble in the buttstock and cheekpiece, along with needing like 4 different Allen wrenches to adjust everything feel...cheap...when compared to the AI. The buttstock of the AX feels so solid and easy to adjust in comparison.
Already switched the color. 17lbs of goodness and my Atlas CAL arrives tonight.
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I do. I saw someone mod an AX chassis to take an Ergo, and I'd do that in a heartbeat if it were possible with an AE/AT skin set, but I don't think it is.
For the most part, I don't wrap around the grip though. I ride the side of the chassis with my thumb, so not too big a deal.
Please post a video of it during use. I am interested to see how well it cycles, etc.
I have 100 rounds through it so far with no problems at all and the first match with it will be next weekend. To complete the transformation I went with a new 6.5x47L Krieger heavy varmint barrel from Keystone Accuracy and it’s shooting great!! The whole setup feels completely different and I couldn’t be happier right now. I’ll try to take some videos during the match.
The action.
They would still cover it even though it’s not in their chassis?
Don’t see why not. Unless they could relate a particular failure to the new setup, shouldn’t change anything.
Damn! Ok now I really got to look at these hard!
dont see why not either. dropped it into a chassis and screwed a new barrel on.
What exactly is the process for getting the action out? Trying to plan out what I might need if I ever decide to do this.
Even at that, I don’t see how swapping the stock on my AT could void the warranty if something in the bolt malfunctioned. It would likely void warranty on the chassis, sure, but the whole rifle shouldn’t be affected.
Strip the skins, put the barrel in a vise, heat the epoxy with a paint stipper heat gun and pry/wiggle the chassis up and down until it separates. Then I scrapped any remaining epoxy off with a razor blade.... done.
Personally I agree with your logic... Just saying it might be worth while to verify AI will see it the same way as I get the impression they don't always appreciate our resourcefulness.
10 bucks says there’s no way AI honors warranty work on a de-bonded action in another chassis. How could you definitively prove to them that the heat applied during the debonding, or the fact that it’s in a non-AI chassis wasn’t the contributing factor to the (hypothetical) issue you were having?
Same as if you put an aftermarket turbo in your Civic, Honda won’t repair your head gasket under warranty if it goes.
IMO, if you de-bond it you assume the risk and have to deal with the fact that AI will fix anything that might go wrong - but the repair will come out of your pocket.
Same as if you put an aftermarket turbo in your Civic, Honda won’t repair your head gasket under warranty if it goes.
IMO, if you de-bond it you assume the risk and have to deal with the fact that AI will fix anything that might go wrong - but the repair will come out of your pocket.
Good luck to all haha. If you’re willing to de-bond a $4500 gun and put it in a $1000 chassis, who the F cares about warranty work? Just be willing to accept, at least on a public forum, that they aren’t going to warranty your new MPAI. I’m not saying don’t do it, I think it’s cool to be honest, but if your main reservation is voiding the warranty then it’s probaby best to call AI direct or just not risk it.
