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Accuracy International Picture Thread

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You could try Jelly…. But not Jam….no Jam.

What’s the difference between jelly and jam?
















You can’t jelly your dick into your…..partner’s……ass!
 
You could try Jelly…. But not Jam….no Jam.

What’s the difference between jelly and jam?
















You can’t jelly your dick into your…..partner’s……ass!
Jelly is used to toss salad in prison.....
 
Has anyone tried the 8.6 BLK in an at or aw ?
Thinking of getting a dedicated subsonic barrel for my AT-X.
I know you can load 308 to subsonic speeds, but it seems less than ideal with currently available powders.
The 300 BO would be ideal for me, but I doubt I will ever find a 223 bolt.
 
The 5% molybdenum disulphide version appears to have been Aeroshell 33MS, now Aeroshell 64. I'm trying to remember if there is a reason to not use a molybdenum disulphide grease on firearms, to include AR's.
I was referring to the horrible smell, not the lubrication properties....
 
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Correction, Bolt balm. It’s a small container, but a little goes a long way.
 
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You absolutely should run Molybdenum based lubes on firearms, and wet patch barrels with it. I have a very long writeup regarding the use of it for the HK MR762 platform. Shooter's Choice FP10 and Jeany's Gun Lube both are Moly based. Match grade barrels respond well to it. And no reason not to run it on a bolt as a grease or lube.
How can you mention German goodness in a British thread?

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How can you mention German goodness is a British thread?

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Well, easy. I can give you the Bundeswehr G22A1 and really make your jaw drop 😂

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Here's the link to the piece I wrote. Just ignore the H&K junk, and jump straight to the chapter on Molybdenum:


The short version: wet patching with Molybdenum is good for match grade barrels due to the way it thermogenically bonds to iron when exposed to high heat and sulfur. I only wet patch, and do not dry patch. It makes cleaning easier, and has advantages.
 
Sounds a little like the whole moly coated bullet craze, have you done any testing with those and how wet patching compares?
It's one and the same. Lake City did testing more extensive than my own. Read the chapter I did on this from my writeup, get back to me and I'll respond in kind. Most of my research is known from the racing industry:

I run Molybdenum based oil in my race car, and we've done 40,000 worth of oil testing in a track car that revs to 8000rpm. The oil analysis has been surprising, and because of the results, we only change the oil every 7,000mi. Knowing what it can do in a race engine for pistons spinning in a cylinder block, has shown it to work.

When Mike Kojima, a racing engineer, created Jeany's Gun Lube that is Moly based, I started using it and saw the difference on a BCG vs not using it. Same further on the gas piston of the MR762.


The stuff works as far as my experience goes. Both Shooters Choice FP10 and Jeany's Gun Lube are Moly based, so I swear by it for match barrels.
 
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Well, easy. I can give you the Bundeswehr G22A1 and really make your jaw drop 😂

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Here's the link to the piece I wrote. Just ignore the H&K junk, and jump straight to the chapter on Molybdenum:


The short version: wet patching with Molybdenum is good for match grade barrels due to the way it thermogenically bonds to iron when exposed to high heat and sulfur. I only wet patch, and do not dry patch. It makes cleaning easier, and has advantages.

All that and pos leupy wtf is the matter with you put a damn Schmidt on that
 
This’ll prolly piss off a bunch of people:
The AT thumb hole is difficult to use with a rear bag, mostly because of he big goofy D shaped hook.

I always figured they were trying to sell monopods or something….

This is why the first thing I did when I bought my AT was put a set old AICS butt skins on it.

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I came to my AT already owning many transgender rifles- I have been running AICSs on everything since 2003 or 04.

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Note the one AT chassis in this picture has early butt skins on it. That’s a 1959 US marked 22LR 40X that I’ve vandalized, BTW.


I’m fortunate because 99% of my shooting (other than load development and zeroing) is prone on this big square 1000 yard range.

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Sure, I’m using the same old dopey bunny ear bag and I run a Harris and the exact same scope bases and rings on everything but all this shit has all been working for me on this range for the past twenty years.


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Okay boomer….
That is a nice range; be shame someone put a few barricades around
 
First outing with the new Proof competition contour barrel and AI comp trigger on the AT. Really like the barrel a lot

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No sh×t. A unicorn Leftie AI. That's wicked to see. I had to teach my eyeballs to shoot right handed due to running a bolt action. I'd love to see what I could do with a LH AI AT308. Very cool rifle dude.
 
I need a little input... Would like to purchase a can for my at-x. Shooting 6cm mostly. What do you guys recommend and what are you all using?
 
No

It was made by RRS. No longer available for whatever reason.
Thx. It looks pretty good.

I don't want to put a stupid scammer-attracting WTB ad, so here goes: if anyone has a RRS BAI-AT rail (1st version, short with the wavy sides) that they want to get rid of, pm me.
 
Thx. It looks pretty good.

I don't want to put a stupid scammer-attracting WTB ad, so here goes: if anyone has a RRS BAI-AT rail (1st version, short with the wavy sides) that they want to get rid of, pm me.
If you're after function, Sawtooth got you covered.

 
If you want a short section of arca on your AT like the old RRS rail, sawtooth also has you covered. This is what I have on mine unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of the rifle handy right now

 
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Thx. It looks pretty good.

I don't want to put a stupid scammer-attracting WTB ad, so here goes: if anyone has a RRS BAI-AT rail (1st version, short with the wavy sides) that they want to get rid of, pm me.
It mates perfectly with the chassis and is solid. You also have exposed areas to access the spigot release mechanism unlike the Sawtooth. It was also half the cost if I recall.
 
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By “both”, which are you referring to? The BAI-AT long (no waves) and short (w/waves) versions?
This is the sawtooth version:

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This is the RRS version :


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I bought the RRS out of the PX so I don’t know which version but it’s not wavey and covers the entire underside of the forend without protruding. The two versions I have are pretty similar
 
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Looking for info on this AI 10rd 308 mag. Pretty sure this is left over from my Mausingfield days but it isn't caliber marked and kind of has an MDT feel to it. Can anyone enlighten me please, did AI make non caliber marked mags? TIA.

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No freeloading - Crappy pic of the MC out on Ironman range getting a zero on a new barrel.

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Looking for info on this AI 10rd 308 mag. Pretty sure this is left over from my Mausingfield days but it isn't caliber marked and kind of has an MDT feel to it. Can anyone enlighten me please, did AI make non caliber marked mags? TIA.

IMG_0705-3201462.jpg


IMG_0708-3201463.jpg


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IMG_0706-3201465.jpg


No freeloading - Crappy pic of the MC out on Ironman range getting a zero on a new barrel.

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looks like a single stack AICS mag to me made by AI. i don't think any of them have calibers on them
 
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I have an AX and an AT with thumbhole skins, so this isn’t exactly the comparo you wanted. Hopefully it’ll help, though.

Keep in mind that I shoot from a bench or tripod, not prone.

The quick adjustments on the AX are nice, but you can add a quick adjust buttplate AX-style to the AT (up/down/cant, not LOP).

For me the biggest diff is the folding side and especially the way my bag works with the butt. On the bench, at least, a regular bag works well with an AX. Tuck it right in before the hook.

The AT thumbhole is still a bit of a puzzle for me to use a bag gracefully. I have been tucking it in the big hook area…it’s a really tall gap. Seems like my bags are either too short or too tall, my bipod is too high or too short, and my bag hand can interfere just a little with the shooting hand sometimes. Using the bottom of the AT hook forces me to crank the bipod up way too high. I’d need a darn baby highchair lol.

I think the AW’s much lower gap in the hook area would be better for rear bags. Plus it’s flat vs the AT’s curved thing.

Maybe when prone this is a non-issue?

I probably need to goof with it more. A lot more. But any tips with rear bags and the AT would be appreciated.
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I use my monopod as a bag rider for that reason