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Action screw torque - lesser of recommended values?

Little_Fish

Private
Minuteman
Mar 1, 2022
65
24
Hudson Valley, NY
I’m going to take the chassis off my Bergara LRP 2.0 to add some inlet weights for balance.

Bergara recommends 55 in/lbs for the action screw torque, but XLR recommends 65 in/lbs. Is the rule for this the same as scope rings where I go to the lesser of the two recommended numbers?
 
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On my savage or Rem 700 style actions I’ve always torqued to 65 with my HS, XLR, Mcree, MDT, B&C, choate etc as recommended and never had an issue
 
55 ft pounds is gonna break some shit 😂

Did you call Bergara and ask them specifically about their action in another chassis?

If the Bergara spec is from the manual, I’d bet it’s based on their stock and not the action.

I use 65 in pounds on several R700 and clones in multiple chassis and stocks. No issues.
 
On my savage or Rem 700 style actions I’ve always torqued to 65 with my HS, XLR, Mcree, MDT, B&C, choate etc as recommended and never had an issue
Thanks. Before I wonder an in/lbs torque wrench I always used tighten the ever lover shit out of everything and never had any issues so I’d rather go higher if I could.
 
55 ft pounds is gonna break some shit 😂

Did you call Bergara and ask them specifically about their action in another chassis?

If the Bergara spec is from the manual, I’d bet it’s based on their stock and not the action.

I use 65 in pounds on several R700 and clones in multiple chassis and stocks. No issues.
I realized that and edited my post! Foot pounds would leave me hurting for sure!! I will call Bergara before doing anything but what you’re saying sounds right because it was based on the manual from the entire line of rifles not mine with the chassis specifically.
 
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I would think you're right.
If your truly worried then just ask Bergara. Chances are they’ll say it’s fine. Or just go 55/60 and call it a day. I don’t think you’ll see a huge difference either way
 
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Correct me if I’m wrong but doesn’t Bergara recommend 55 in/lbs so you don’t crack the bottom metal? At least on the HMRs
 
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Updating my previous thread.

After about 250 rounds my front action screw came loose. I’m wondering if I should have gone with the 65/inch pounds or if checking the torque on the screws is something I need to add into my routine. I’ve never had an action screw come loose on any of my other (hunting, low round count) bold action rifles.
 
I check the torque (65 in/lbs) in my three MPA chassis rifles after EVERY firing. Learned that the hard way.
 
I check the torque (65 in/lbs) in my three MPA chassis rifles after EVERY firing. Learned that the hard way.
Wow thanks. I’ve never given it a second thought in any of the other guns I own. And when you say after every firing you mean after every range trip and not after every individual shot right?
 
No
Just fucking NO.

Use the torque as a tuning tool.
It's obvious to keep it within reason....I mean fucking duh.
But you can tweak it a bit up and down and see what happens.
Sometimes a few tighter or looser will yield gains.
It's just another tool....use it to YOUR benefit.
Fucka buncha this and that it has to be precisely this.
Use any tool at your disposal to obtain what YOU require.
 
Thanks. I think I’ll do some blue loctite at 55/ inch lbs and do like you and routinely check them.
MPA (and others) recommend NO Loctite or RockSett on any action screws. Using the MPA locking-washers helps, but they don't always work as advertised.
 
MPA (and others) recommend NO Loctite or RockSett on any action screws. Using the MPA locking-washers helps, but they don't always work as advertised.
Interesting. I called bergara and the guy I spoke to said to try loctite before going up to 65/inch lbs. I suppose checking the torque after each trip could break the hold of the loctite anyway doing more harm than good.
 
Interesting. I called bergara and the guy I spoke to said to try loctite before going up to 65/inch lbs. I suppose checking the torque after each trip could break the hold of the loctite anyway doing more harm than good.
I'd think there'd be a few reasons, but it's just a guess"
  1. Keep that stuff out of the action ... it could leak in.
  2. Every time you remove the chassis you'd have to reapply.
  3. Can't test the torque regularly without breaking the seal.
When I was struggling mightily with this, the MPA guys were very emphatic ... "No goo on the screws".
 
I'd think there'd be a few reasons, but it's just a guess"
  1. Keep that stuff out of the action ... it could leak in.
  2. Every time you remove the chassis you'd have to reapply.
  3. Can't test the torque regularly without breaking the seal.
When I was struggling mightily with this, the MPA guys were very emphatic ... "No goo on the screws".
I would agree with all those points. Routinely checking the torque is the least intrusive option for sure.
 
Interesting history for me ... of my three MPA-BA rifles ... one has no issues, one was solved with the lock washers, one didn't stop loosening until the stock was bedded (by the guys at MPA). That said, I check torque on all three after each range visit and just before I put 'em back in the safe. None of them are currently loosening at all, but a regular check is "cheap insurance".
 
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Interesting history for me ... of my three MPA-BA rifles ... one has no issues, one was solved with the lock washers, one didn't stop loosening until the stock was bedded (by the guys at MPA). That said, I check torque on all three after each range visit and just before I put 'em back in the safe. None of them are currently loosening at all, but a regular check is "cheap insurance".
I called XLR who said to just run the 65. I think I’ll try that. I don’t think going from 55 to 65 is going to damage anything. If it opens up groups I’ll go back to 55. Either way routinely verifying things are tight is going to become part of my post shooting routine.