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Advice needed for 2017 Buick Enclave repairs

Smokeshot

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 8, 2024
459
3,377
Illinois
Noticed a significant shake in the steering wheel at speeds 60 mph and above. I am going to replace the brakes and rotros but wanted to take it to the dealer to check everything out since I plan on driving this for at least another 2-4 years. Here's their diagnosis and quote:
1. Steering gear w/ alignment - $3,253.27
2. Both rear lower control arm bushings - $967.43
3. Front & rear brake + rotors - $1,331.63 (I'm gonna do this so maybe $500)
4. Front flex pipe (starting to crack) - $1,400.30

I think this estimate is ridiculous. How complicated would it be to DIY the steering gear (not the alignment), bushings, and flex pipe?
 
That seems steep lol... vibes could be from something as simple as tire balance or bad tire.

A ball joint, tie rod end etc could cause the same thing. I wouldn't pay anyone who couldn't show me a likely cause....

Put the front tires on the back... see if anything changes.

Dont just replace everything and hope you get the issue... not a fan of the shotgun approach. This is the hide after all lol... ask em for a little precision on the diagnosis
 
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Does one of the tires have a tumor? Seperating, bubble.

Have you had the tire balance checked. Bent rim.

Those don't even have a steering gear... it a rack and pinion and you can get one shipped for around $200. Do not give those crooks any of your hard earned paper.
The tires are very new (Cooper brand) and I got them from a well-reputed local garage.
 
Spent some time in a tire shop.

If they have a force balancer it will be able to detect issues. IE if the force number is high its either a defective tire or a bent rim. Checking the rim run out on the balancer is not hard and if its good it is the tire. They should warrantee it.

I have replaced defective tires for customers using this process having worked at a family owned local tire shop that has been in business sine the late 70's.

Also have them look over suspension components.
 
Spent some time in a tire shop.

If they have a force balancer it will be able to detect issues. IE if the force number is high its either a defective tire or a bent rim. Checking the rim run out on the balancer is not hard and if its good it is the tire. They should warrantee it.

I have replaced defective tires for customers using this process having worked at a family owned local tire shop that has been in business sine the late 70's.

Also have them look over suspension components.
Thank you.
 
Only when cruising at 60 and above.
I wouldn’t touch the brakes, unless they’re just wore out and need done anyway. But they’re not causing an issue while rolling down the road.

Would definitely go back to the tire shop and see what they say, and pending that visit, hit up a reputable shop.

A jack, a couple jack stands, and a pry bar can ID most front end problems for you.
And a second person to wiggle the steering wheel while the front wheels are off the ground… But I don’t work on many new vehicles, just my old clunkers.
 
Reminds me of when I took my 1989 FJ62 Landcruiser to a Toyota dealer in Louisville around 2007 when it had around 230,000 miles on it; they listed around $9000 in repairs for it including a steering box and rear seal. I left with the list, changed the oil myself, and drove it as primary vehicle without any of their repairs until I sold it in 2017. Don’t even get me started at the attempted theft by the Volvo dealer my wife insists on taking her XC90 to……..
 
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Yeah, dealer prices are ridiculous. You can get the flex pipe repaired at any muffler shop for under $100. The high dollar item( steering rack) probably just needs inner and outer tie rods- less than $500. Try to find a reputable independent shop to verify the things they found. A good shop will be busy enough that they don't have to scam extra work from a customer. A REALLY good shop will even prioritize the repairs for you- safety issues and original complaint items first. Dealers want you to give up on your used car so you will buy a new one.
 
Wife had a RAV4. Took it to Toyota at about 30k for something. They did a “courtesy” inspection and told me needed brakes both axles to the tune of 2500. Took it home and pulled a front and rear wheel and inspected the brakes. Put the wheels back on and she drove it another 25k before it needed front brakes. Still had the original rear brakes when we sold at 70k.
 
Wife had a RAV4. Took it to Toyota at about 30k for something. They did a “courtesy” inspection and told me needed brakes both axles to the tune of 2500. Took it home and pulled a front and rear wheel and inspected the brakes. Put the wheels back on and she drove it another 25k before it needed front brakes. Still had the original rear brakes when we sold at 70k.
2500 for a brake job. These people are criminals...
 
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Did it shake above 60 with the old tires?

As mentioned, before firing the parts cannon at the car find someone local with a Hunter Elite road force balancer or equivalent and make sure they know how to use it in road force mode. It will quickly and inexpensively confirm or rule out a damaged wheel, defective tire, or poor balance job. You don't want to misdiagnose a suspension or steering issue and spend a bunch of money changing parts only to find it was a wheel/tire issue from the beginning. Several times a year I see cars with fairly new tires that look great but have internal tire defects that cause vibration or pulling, and a good operator on the Hunter can quickly find the issue.

As far as doing all the work yourself, get a 3 day subscription to AC Delco TDS or Alldata DIY and read the factory service instructions for each job on that estimate. If that steering rack is electric you probably can't swap it without an MDI interface and the factory GM GDS2 software as the rack may have to be flashed once installed and it will probably need a steering angle sensor relearn. Regarding the brakes, if the rear has an electronic parking brake you may need the factory software or a third party scanner to command a retract of the parking brake before swapping rotors and then reset them after the new rotors are installed. Always a good idea to read the service manual before diving in, especially on the newer stuff that often requires the factory diagnostic software or an expensive third party scanner for many procedures.
 
Start with the tires.
Then steering joints. The rack is going to be fairly rare to fail at that mileage without a good hit.
Wheel bearings. Not hard to change with the right tools, but those right tools might be a few air chisels if the rust seized them to the knuckle.

Start with jacking it up from the "frame". Put a pry bar under the tire and check for play. You'll see the ball joints move, they should have a little movement, but if they're sloppy it's due.
Jack it up from the A-arm. This will load the joints. If there's play it's the wheel bearings.

A good alignment tech can see it all happen in real time on the rack. If you can find an independent shop that's not interested in ripping you off they could pinpoint where the slop is coming from.

I have gotten over 200k on stock GM truck brakes. Highly doubt it needs them unless someone has been riding them mercilessly.

I just swapped an engine in my truck at 332k. This new stuff lasts if you keep up on the little stuff. It did need a whole new front end at about 260k (ball joints, tie rods, brakes, pitman and idler arms...)
 
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