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Group Buys Aftermarket AI "Obsession" Chassis - Group Buy

Anyone else ready for a drink? Measuring out 40 servings of 2-part Devcon aluminum putty is not exactly my idea of a fun filled couple of evenings!

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Each kit will include all the brushes, stir sticks, various sized Q-tips, alignment rods, and epoxy you will need to re-bond the chassis.

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So since black is already done are they going out first thing Monday? 😁
 
Hey guys, I’ve got some good news and some bad news.

The bad news first: there was a machining error with the rear “tang” of the chassis where the buttstock tube installs on to. I have double checked my CAD files and prints and confirmed those are correct, but the chassis came with some extra material that shouldn’t be there, which prevents the buttstock tube from being able to fit over it.

The good news:
- There’s too much material, not too little, so it’s a quick fix. And it has already been fixed! About 0.020” needed to be removed off on one surface, and we’re back in business. With some extremely quick work from Red Beard Gunworks and @ElMeheecan all of the chassis were measured and corrected. I can’t thank him enough for doing these so quickly. They literally unpacked all the chassis that were ready to ship and banged these out.
- The black and sage green chassis were already cerakoted, so those will have a raw aluminum area as shown below. But not to worry, it gets covered by the buttstock tube and epoxy, then is covered up by the stock grip panels. And fun fact, the factory AX chassis which are cerakoted (ATs are anodized) the tang is left completely raw aluminum. So there will be no performance of epoxy adherence issues.
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- The remaining chassis that are still waiting for PB, DE, and Classic Green were machined and will be Cerakoted next, so you’ll never know they were touched up.
- The first production chassis has been installed successfully at the Red Beard shop. From what I heard it went smoothly other than the buttstock tang mentioned above.
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I tell you all of this to continue to be open and honest about the progress of this project. I also didn’t want 20 of you to wonder what was up with that part of the chassis being machined. I’m hoping now that that’s all squared away that Red Beard will be able to re-package them up and ship them to me this week, then knock out the remaining colors. I have everything ready at home to ship them to you guys, literally everything is bagged and tagged, boxes are ready, just need to make shipping labels.

Thanks for all of your continued patience!

Sam
 
One more thing to mention/ask your guys’ opinion.

The NV Bridge mounting tapped holes are in the chassis forend. After Cerakote the tapped holes are a little tight with the 6-32 screws. So while the screws may fit (and should) it’s probably best not to risk damaging the threads. So I can do a couple things:
1) Leave them untouched
2) Go over all of the holes with a tap, which will knock off the Cerakote and leave the holes shiny metal
3) Include a 6-32 tap in the parts kit so you can clean the threads up if needed, and only for the (6) holes where the NV Bridge is installed.

I’m leaning towards option #3. I’m willing to take the time to clean all the threads up myself with option #2, but I know not everyone will use the bridge, and if they do it will likely not need to be installed in every location along the length of the forend.

Looking back I should’ve tried to source an oversized tap for the initial cutting of the threads, but I thought the 6-32 threads were coarse enough that there wouldn’t be any issues post-Cerakote.

Let me know what you think.

Sam
 
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My vote is number 1 and post a link where I should purchase my own tap to only clean the threads I need after mounting my optic and deciding where I want to mount the bridge.

Sam, we all know this isn’t an easy endeavor and please know I’m along for the ride and know things like this happen. I have no issues and can’t wait to have the chassis in hand, I appreciate the updates.
 
Thanks Sam, I appreciate the information and honesty! My vote for the threads issue is to include the tap.
Thanks!
 
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Thanks for the feedback, guys.

Cant believe no one commented on the picture of the assembled rifle!!!
 
If you were to put on AX stock on there when folded would it interfere with the thumb shelf or would you have to remove it?
 
If you were to put on AX stock on there when folded would it interfere with the thumb shelf or would you have to remove it?
The thumb rest works with the AX buttstock and it can still fold closed all the way. BUT, you lose the “locking” catch with the male stud and female plastic catch, that gets deleted with the thumb rest install.
 
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I’m ok with what ever you decide on the nv bridge holes. So it looks like they are blind holes... are the threads/holes deep enough to use a regular tap or do we need a tap without the taper? I have plenty of through hole taps. Interesting blue on the skins of the Assembled rifle.
 
I’m ok with what ever you decide on the nv bridge holes. So it looks like they are blind holes... are the threads/holes deep enough to use a regular tap or do we need a tap without the taper? I have plenty of through hole taps. Interesting blue on the skins of the Assembled rifle.
I think a "plug" or "bottoming" chamfer tap would be needed. The standard taper chamfer tap with 7-10 chamfered threads at the tip would likely not go deep enough. The thread engagement is ~0.350, so with 32tpi you're only looking at 11 threads.

I think I'm going to get a tap for each kit and just include it regardless. A carbon steel tap is only a couple bucks, and there's no need for a fancy coated tap to clean the cerakote off 6 holes.
 
I think a "plug" or "bottoming" chamfer tap would be needed. The standard taper chamfer tap with 7-10 chamfered threads at the tip would likely not go deep enough. The thread engagement is ~0.350, so with 32tpi you're only looking at 11 threads.
I think I'm going to get a tap for each kit and just include it regardless. A carbon steel tap is only a couple bucks, and there's no need for a fancy coated tap to clean the cerakote off 6 holes.

You’re on it, thanks for looking ahead so we don’t have issues. Looking forward to the new chassis.
 
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They don’t like my metallic blue and have no love for the AT buttstock 😢

At least all the green is gone lol
Blue skins, black chassis, bronze Razor, SS barrel...it's a cornucopia of awesome!

(although I hate SS barrels haha)
 
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Blue skins, black chassis, bronze Razor, SS barrel...it's a cornucopia of awesome!

(although I hate SS barrels haha)

lol! I felt the same on stainless till I sandblasted and oiled this one, then it kinda grew on me
 
#1 or #3 works for me.

1) Leave them untouched
2) Go over all of the holes with a tap, which will knock off the Cerakote and leave the holes shiny metal
3) Include a 6-32 tap in the parts kit so you can clean the threads up if needed, and only for the (6) holes where the NV Bridge is installed.
Let me know what you think.

Sam
 
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Wasn’t sure about posting anything cause I don’t want to make what’s left of the wait even harder but I figured y’all might appreciate some feed back?

Did a little shooting with it today. Picture shows balance point with a 26” marksman and 2lb weight installed. 20lbs 4oz overall. Balance point is near perfect. Fed flawlessly, rifle shot as good as before. Coming from an AT core, general handling of the rifle is more comfortable as its not as tall and doesn’t roll in the hand. Still twists a little when opening the bolt while on a bag but its significantly less. Didn’t run into any other issues beside NV bridge screws being a tad tight and the stock tang needing some minor machining which is already addressed on all chassis’. I’ve had this one in and out of the old chassis several times before so this time wasn’t really any different or new minus pulling the stock off. Just take your time and have everything laid out and ready to go. Do some dry runs before you apply compound to make sure you’ve got everything and nothing is in the way.

I’m not really sure what else to say except I’m thoroughly pleased and impressed with the kit and the end result. I told Sam it’s almost boringly nice. Its what a 2020 AI should be. Though it is lacking some form of pandemic/political divisiveness/murder hornets/wildfires/general chaos. Maybe this could be included in Obsession 2.0...
 
Thanks for the review. That little AO you laser engraved looks sweet.

PS. We're going to start a gofundme for an AX buttstock for you 😁

lol it does look dope af but all the laser work was Red Beard. I just swung in to knock out the machining on the stock tang.

Do AX buttstocks come in metallic blue??
 
I know you're joking, but... I was looking at that just last night... It wouldn't be hard to do.

I'd start with black so you get a black butt pad.

Only partly joking.... 😉

honestly not sure what I want to do but this patched look has kinda grown on me so it’ll stay for at least a little while
 
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Can you post a link to where to purchase those grip panels? I thought I had saved their facebook page, but can't seem to find it (and am too lazy to dig back through numerous AI picture thread pages to find it). Thanks!
 
For guys interested in an AR grip don’t float their thumb, right? Trying to understand that picture with a thumb shelf, you only need the AR style if you’re fully addressing the grip. Am I missing something?
 
Moved comments to AI grip mod thread
 
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Hey guys, not to be a dick but can you move this conversation over to the thread that @reubenski linked above? I don’t want to get someone else’s product selling (with or without Frank’s OK?) in here with the chassis stuff. Thanks!
 
Sorry Sam!
I moved my comments over to the other thread.....now back to the AO goodness!
 
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Sorry Sam!
I moved my comments over to the other thread.....now back to the AO goodness!
It's all good, guys! I know that grip adapter is something people have been asking about for a long time, it looks like they adapted it very similarly to how I thought it would best work. I thought about doing it with the entirety of the panels being aluminum, but their aluminum "core" with trigger guard and modified plastic skins look like a good option as well.
 
If you came out with some kind of thing that allowed us to use regular grips on an AI, I'd be alllll over that. Hell I'll pay you right now.
 
So I'm waiting on my pale brown cerakoted chassis, but I got ambitious over the weekend and de-bonded my chassis. Did it with a heat gun and took all of about 10 minutes.
I was wondering why I hadn't heard any chatter about the chassis, turns out I hadn't posted in this thread yet!!!
 
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So I'm waiting on my pale brown cerakoted chassis, but I got ambitious over the weekend and de-bonded my chassis. Did it with a heat gun and took all of about 10 minutes.
I was wondering why I hadn't heard any chatter about the chassis, turns out I hadn't posted in this thread yet!!!
They're coming. I've been on the horn with Red Beard. My fingers are crossed that the black and sage kits are on a truck and out of TX before the hurricane hits. The rest of the colors are supposed to be in work this week.
 
So my pale brown AT folder stock will be for sale. I will post it on the Hide's accessories forum soon in case anyone knows someone looking for one. That could facilitate another chassis sale for Sam too. That's assuming there are any left.
 
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So my pale brown AT folder stock will be for sale. I will post it on the Hide's accessories forum soon in case anyone knows someone looking for one. That could facilitate another chassis sole for Sam too. That's assuming there are any left.
At this time there aren’t any left, all 40 are spoken for. I’m pleasantly surprised, but also kicking myself for not nutting up and having more made in the first batch. I thought I’d sell 25 so I ordered 35, and got 5 extra in an overrun.

Time will tell if I do another batch, but for anyone that is interested I’m putting names on a list.
 
Sam, do you know if the first batch ended up getting shipped out from Red Beard before the hurricane? Sorry to pester, but the excitement is just too much!
 
Sam, do you know if the first batch ended up getting shipped out from Red Beard before the hurricane? Sorry to pester, but the excitement is just too much!
Literally just got a tracking number from Red Beard to me for the Black, Sage Green, and Dark Earth. Guessing with FedEx I'll have them mid-next week.

Red Beard said the Classic Green and Pale Brown will ship out next week.

I'm going to do everything in my power to get these turned around and shipped out to you guys as fast as I possibly can.

Thanks,

Sam
 
Maybe I'm weird but I ordered mine Black so I could do a Sage Green/Black combo :unsure:

Probably should have waited to tell Sam, hopefully he doesn't send mine back and get it redone SG now lol

Jake
 
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Alright guys, part of the first batch has been dropped off at FedEx. Check your email for tracking info. Going out today are the Black, Dark Earth, and half of the Sage Green. I'll get the rest of the Sage Green packaged up tonight. Red Beard is finishing up the Pale Brown and Classic Green this week. Thanks again for your support and patience as this project is finally wrapping up.

For anyone that got the black chassis...you're going to be happy. They look badass! The Dark Earth is a near perfect match for the skins I provided to Red Beard, so I'm hoping it matches better than the straight AI Dark Earth cerakote which was way too dark. And the Sage Green...c'mon man! Doesn't even need to be said :cool:

Sam

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Since the chassis are shipping soon here's one of the buttstock conversion threads to refresh our memories

Here's my YouTube channel with the detailed installation videos.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5DUatPJWzuZMKYTb6JF0aA?view_as=subscriber
 
The remaining Sage Green chassis' have all been shipped out. Only colors left are Pale Brown and Classic Green, which I will hopefully have in hand and shipping out next week.

At this point, guys that are getting them, please let me know if you have any questions regarding the installation. The videos I did are thorough but unedited, so I apologize for there being a lot to sit through. The kits have everything you will need in terms of epoxy and hardware, but I understand that not everyone thinks like me so if there's any gap in the instructions shoot me a message or a text/call.

Thanks,

Sam