Aluma Hyde II- Multi surface type results

[Infidel45]

So I ordered a chassis from XLR which is not due to arrive until Wed due to the Holiday. So I decided to go ahead and break down the rifle (R700 AAC/SD) and do the Timney replacement and coat the parts I have. While I was at it, I decided to do a few other things with the Aluma Hyde since I had all my stuff out and spray booth set up. The results, compared to using Duracoat (which I have also used) is;

# 1: Alumahyde II: Easier to use/goes on thinner and is easier to control. No mixing, stores for long periods between use if you follow procedures. Works well on polymer/plastic and properly prepped/degreased metal equally based on appearance so far.View attachment 38771View attachment 38770View attachment 38772View attachment 38773

Durability is yet to be determined. But as far as finish comparison-my HK USP in photo has Duracoat (Magpul FDE) on the frame and Aluma Hyde OD Green on the slide. The

OD Green will be going on the Element Chassis when it arrives also. Other color on action, barrel & accessories is "Coyote Brown" and is a dead-on match for Magpul FDE (The ERGO grip in the photos is factory colored and matches the Aluma Hyde Coyote exactly). Duracoat's "Magpul FDE" doesn't come as close.

 

[hermosabeach]

The best tip I learned with alumnahyde II is heating the cans to 85-95 degrees in the sink

The product flows better and I get fewer clogs from the rattle can nozzles.


And yes- shake the stuff three times longer than you think you should need to shake.

 

[Drifter™]

I get better results with AH-II by baking the finish 4 to 5 hours at ~200º. YMMV

 

[Ring]

from my use of AH@, its not super solvent resistant...