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Anneal every time = consistent?

Man, standard boiler plate anneal this thread. Where as a bunch of posters worry about everything under the sun exept the target. The target is nearly completely disregarded, and if it is mentioned it's only as an anecdote.
 
Man, standard boiler plate anneal this thread. Where as a bunch of posters worry about everything under the sun exept the target. The target is nearly completely disregarded, and if it is mentioned it's only as an anecdote.
Or we never even see the target. Just line graphs.
 
Or we never even see the target. Just line graphs.

Ahh deflection. We aren’t talking about targets. We’re talking about reloads. And if you can’t understand how those graphs and numbers affect long range shooting I can’t help you. But even when I post targets you find ways to dismiss them.
 
That's all we need if he is just illustrating a lack of velocity change over firings without annealing.

I don’t know shit about shooting targets. Just reloading. Let’s see how you guys dismiss this
 

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You could clean up those flyers if you annealed.

How would you know? You’re mediocre at reloading and shooting. (Thats why you never post anything - and we don’t care about your 100 yard paper targets :))
 
Are you DBDs twin brother? You just want to argue with everyone....🤣🤣🤣

Because everyone is just telling people to anneal with no proof and no suggestion they know what they’re doing reloading. You didn’t need to see targets to know that I’m shooting a very high level but there Now you have them. don’t play defensive because they weren’t what you expected when you showed up to say prove it with targets.
 
For better or worse, i anneal every reloading. Brass is not cheap and not always available. So, with accuracy running around .5 MOA or better when I take the time to shoot groups, and the targets I am shooting at getting hit (as much as I have the ability to hit them) I am having no issues Annealing at every reloading.

So far, getting really good life out of my brass. Now, I am somewhat different, I clean, resize, clean off the lube, debur neck/clean primer pockets, THEN anneal. next prime, charge and seat bullets. Works.
Brass life really comes down to primer pockets. Annealing doesn't help that at all. The only thing annealing will help when it comes to brass life is split necks. Outside of fireforming Dasher brass I haven't had a split neck on a piece of brass in probably 8-10 years
 
Because everyone is just telling people to anneal with no proof and no suggestion they know what they’re doing reloading. You didn’t need to see targets to know that I’m shooting a very high level but there Now you have them. don’t play defensive because they weren’t what you expected when you showed up to say prove it with targets.
You might want to read my posts again there superman. 🤣🤣🤣
 
Please argue how having your brass in a perpetually different state every resizing is consistent.

Look at my chronos. If that was true after 6x firings I shouldn’t still have es/ sd better than you who is annealing. But that’s not true…..

Damn @FredHammer got the hell out of here once people started asking about proof of anything.
 
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Brass life really comes down to primer pockets. Annealing doesn't help that at all. The only thing annealing will help when it comes to brass life is split necks. Outside of fireforming Dasher brass I haven't had a split neck on a piece of brass in probably 8-10 years
I’ve been having problems with neck splits on 6.5 cases in as short as 5 firings. Since I don’t load max loads, I have never had an issue with primer pockets. So worrying with loose primer pockets is a moot point if the brass is split from the mouth to the shoulder. Since annealing at each reloading session, maybe I will get to the this loose primer pockets everyone seems so concerned about. Especially since I am no longer having problems with my 6.5 and 6 brass having premature neck splits.
 
I’ve been having problems with neck splits on 6.5 cases in as short as 5 firings. Since I don’t load max loads, I have never had an issue with primer pockets. So worrying with loose primer pockets is a moot point if the brass is split from the mouth to the shoulder. Since annealing at each reloading session, maybe I will get to the this loose primer pockets everyone seems so concerned about. Especially since I am no longer having problems with my 6.5 and 6 brass having premature neck splits.

However, in honesty, I simply don’t believe in max loads which seems to be the issue with loose primer pockets. Steel, animals and just about everything can’t tell the difference between getting hit with a bullet that was launched a 100FPS faster or slower (But the rifle sure can and since barrels are not cheap and not easy to come by, so why push?).

Think I am crazy about max loads. Check out the majority of early S&W Model 29’s. Pushed to and sometimes past the limit to knock down 65 pound steel silhouettes at 200 meters, many have stretched frames.

Hornady or federal brass? If it’s not lapua or alpha in 6.5 that’s on you
 
Hornady or federal brass? If it’s not lapua or alpha in 6.5 that’s on you
Using Lapua and Starline In the 6.5. No real difference in amount of splits. Gosh, Its been so long, I did not know Federal even sold brass anymore. Alpha and GAP in the GT, but no issues with either.
 
I’ve been having problems with neck splits on 6.5 cases in as short as 5 firings. Since I don’t load max loads, I have never had an issue with primer pockets. So worrying with loose primer pockets is a moot point if the brass is split from the mouth to the shoulder. Since annealing at each reloading session, maybe I will get to the this loose primer pockets everyone seems so concerned about. Especially since I am no longer having problems with my 6.5 and 6 brass having premature neck splits.
If this is true, you are the only person in the world getting split necks on Lapua brass in five firings. Or even 15.

You've got to be making that up. What are you using a 248 bushing in your sizing die before mandreling it back up to 6.5?
 
Look at my chronos. If that was true after 6x firings I shouldn’t still have es/ sd better than you who is annealing. But that’s not true…..

Damn @FredHammer got the hell out of here once people started asking about proof of anything.
Who do you have an ES better than that's annealing? Not I, that's for sure.
 
If this is true, you are the only person in the world getting split necks on Lapua brass in five firings. Or even 15.

You've got to be making that up. What are you using a 248 bushing in your sizing die before mandreling it back up to 6.5?
I've got a few Lapua 6BR cases at home with split shoulders after 1 firing. I could tell exactly which ones were going to split before I even fired them. There were wrinkles in them visible from the outside. I'm not the only one either.
 
I've got a few Lapua 6BR cases at home with split shoulders after 1 firing. I could tell exactly which ones were going to split before I even fired them. There were wrinkles in them visible from the outside. I'm not the only one either.
So annealing is going to fix a defective case?
 
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It may very well prolong the inevitable.
We're talking about normal wear and tear, not defective cases. I've had defective cases as well. I do not consider that to be a case example of necks splitting due to normal wear and tear on an otherwise serviceable case. You're just being a contrarion and playing the AKSHUALLY game
 
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We're talking about normal wear and tear, not defective cases. I've had defective cases as well. I do not consider that to be a case example of necks splitting due to normal wear and tear on an otherwise serviceable case. You're just being a contrarion and playing the AKSHUALLY game
Ok.
 
for a person who dismisses proof you sure are providing a lot. lol
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20 firing. Annealed every time. Average velocity is always the same. First shot on this barrel is historically and documented slow. It says in the data set anyway. 60 shots. An actual sample size. Go fuck yourself.
 
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Different day, different weather, same brass, same process.
 
If this is true, you are the only person in the world getting split necks on Lapua brass in five firings. Or even 15.

You've got to be making that up. What are you using a 248 bushing in your sizing die before mandreling it back up to 6.5?
I don’t make up shit. However, would you people please realize that this is all in the past. And would each and everyone please quit obsessing over a problem I WAS having and am NO longer having.
 
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Different day, different weather, different country, different year, same brass, same process, same average speed +/-4 fps.
 
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Different day, different weather, same brass, same process.
first - lol at using a magneto speed. im not sure why you feel it so necessary to attack not annealing when I can clearly demonstrate that it's a viable solution to shooting groups with very low SD. I'm not going to claim if you hadn't annealed your groups would be better but for you to continuously say that the change in neck consistency negatively impacts performance flies in the face of the evidence presented here.

I will say it again - the amp annealer is the only annealer that could improve brass quality or life. Annealing with an amp has the ability to improve longevity in brass. A new reloader has no business getting into annealing when they aren't reloading at a very high level - and then the only annealing that makes sense is the amp.
 
first - lol at using a magneto speed. im not sure why you feel it so necessary to attack not annealing when I can clearly demonstrate that it's a viable solution to shooting groups with very low SD. I'm not going to claim if you hadn't annealed your groups would be better but for you to continuously say that the change in neck consistency negatively impacts performance flies in the face of the evidence presented here.

I will say it again - the amp annealer is the only annealer that could improve brass quality or life. Annealing with an amp has the ability to improve longevity in brass. A new reloader has no business getting into annealing when they aren't reloading at a very high level - and then the only annealing that makes sense is the amp.
You’ve demonstrated no such thing.
 
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To be fair, factory annealing (even from places like Lapua and Alpha) is fairly inconsistent. You can easily see it using an AMP press with factory annealed and AMP annealed virgin brass.

However, it's likely not enough to matter to most people. And there are definitely other methods of annealing that work. Hence why other industries don't universally use induction annealing.
 
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years back ,before i had gotten involved with annealing, some brass had gotten so hard that I had to lube the ball expander to get it out of the brass . lee die's if I remember right,(now using redding.) if you are not annealing, it will catch up with you. and you can also get to soft
 
Did I miss it….but I don’t see where the OP is sharing HOW he knows the degree of interference fit he has after annealing.

@SlowMiss6.5 - did you measure ID of your necks after your full case prep and if so, how?
 
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years back ,before i had gotten involved with annealing, some brass had gotten so hard that I had to lube the ball expander to get it out of the brass . lee die's if I remember right,(now using redding.) if you are not annealing, it will catch up with you. and you can also get to soft
You are always supposed to lube the inside of necks for pulling expanders or pushing mandrels. It has nothing to do with annealing.
 
I will say it again - the amp annealer is the only annealer that could improve brass quality or life. Annealing with an amp has the ability to improve longevity in brass. A new reloader has no business getting into annealing when they aren't reloading at a very high level - and then the only annealing that makes sense is the amp.
Im about 4,000 above sea level am I allowed to anneal?
 
To be fair, factory annealing (even from places like Lapua and Alpha) is fairly inconsistent. You can easily see it using an AMP press with factory annealed and AMP annealed virgin brass.

However, it's likely not enough to matter to most people. And there are definitely other methods of annealing that work. Hence why other industries don't universally use induction annealing.

Annealing for purposes of softening brass for the factory to create the case is entirely different than the resetting of metallurgical principles and grain pattern annealing that people are talking about here.
 
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For anyone who's actually on the forum not to argue, before leaving the factory, all brass manufacturers do a final anneal that is for the same reasons people anneal when utilizing fired brass. Obviously there is annealing that is also done during the draw process.

Peterson for example, utilizes induction annealing for their final anneal. Other manufacturers use other methods.

You can contact your go to brass manufacturer and inquire about any of their process they are willing to divulge and many will also schedule informational tours.


 
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I appreciate the info and the data. When people report that they see benefits in consistent neck tension and ES/SD due to annealing each time, do you think they not measuring what they think they are?

When I originally talked to Peterson brass manufacturer, they said anneal every time or not at all. And if annealing anneal with an induction setup like Amp
Brian Litz has a podcast with Erik Cortina and discusses his extensive testing with annealing. He found that under no conditions did he ever witness that annealing had any affect on improving ES or SD's, it only annealed the brass as it is supposed to....Watch the podcast and draw your own conclusions....