Rifle Scopes ATACR 7–35 Made in Japan vs. USA – Material difference, stripped set screw, mount issue, MK5HD comparison

[Artisan]

Hi everyone,

I’ve been a long-time user of Nightforce optics and recently ran into some issues and observations I’d like feedback on.

1.
ATACR 7–35 “Made in Japan” vs. “Made in USA” – material differences

I previously used a US-made ATACR 5–25×, and recently switched to a Japan-marked ATACR 7–35×. During turret adjustment, the elevation dial’s set screw stripped.

Does anyone know if there is a difference in material or hardness for the elevation set screw or turret components between US- and Japan-marked ATACRs?

Also — not looking to get replacement parts — but does anyone know the specs or thread size of the elevation set screw?

2.
Nightforce mount thread issue — SPUHR alternative?

While using a Nightforce one-piece mount, I noticed the screw threads deformed slightly when removing the optic.

Has anyone experienced this? Would a SPUHR mount offer better thread strength or durability? I’m considering switching due to better machining tolerances.

3.
MK5HD vs ATACR 7–35 — real-world usability

I’ve used both the ATACR 7–35×56 and Leupold MK5HD 7–35×56.

While ATACR may have better optics, I find:

• MK5HD’s ZeroLock system is easier and more field-friendly
• ATACR’s zero stop requires small screws that are easy to lose
• Turret resistance differs between ATACR units

What are your thoughts on the MK5HD 7–35× vs. ATACR 7–35× in real-world field use?

Which do you prefer based on turret feel, zeroing speed, and durability — not just glass?



Thanks in advance!

 

[oldrifleman]

Only going respond on number 2. I have had a number of 7-35s and they are miles ahead of the MK5s. But back to mount. Seriously get an Area419 precise mounts or ARC M-brace. Spuhrs are over priced and too temperamental. I have had over 8 of them an never had an issue but there are too many documented cases of the breaking.

 

[R_A_W]

ATACR’s zero stop requires small screws that are easy to lose

You shouldn't be removing the turret setscrews or the clutch setscrews? Just loosen them a bit

does anyone know the specs or thread size of the elevation set screw

I believe they're proprietary, could be wrong though

 

[xxflyingturtlexx]

Your NF tool that came in the box is what you needed and it has 3 bits; smaller ones wont strip it and the correct one does not have to be tightened too much.

7-35 atacr is much better optic than mk5

 

[Artisan]

Your NF tool that came in the box is what you needed and it has 3 bits; smaller ones wont strip it and the correct one does not have to be tightened too much.

7-35 atacr is much better optic than mk5

I have a question regarding the elevation dial adjustment on the ATACR 7–35×.





When I loosen the four small screws on the elevation dial, I understand they are meant to release the dial from the zero stop plate. After that, I turn the internal adjuster to re-zero. However, I find the internal movement quite heavy and not smooth.


Is that normal behavior, or could it indicate a problem?





I’ve heard the optical performance of the ATACR is superior, but I feel that the zeroing and turret adjustments are easier on the MK5HD — especially in the field.





Also, I noticed that one of the two small screws that secure the elevation dial got damaged — specifically, the hex head deformed slightly.


I used the Nightforce polymer wrench, and in hindsight, I probably over-tightened it without a torque limiter. That’s on me, and I regret not using a torque wrench.





Have others experienced similar resistance when adjusting elevation on the ATACR? And are the turret screws generally known to be soft or prone to deforming?





Appreciate any insight.

 

[Artisan]

Only going respond on number 2. I have had a number of 7-35s and they are miles ahead of the MK5s. But back to mount. Seriously get an Area419 precise mounts or ARC M-brace. Spuhrs are over priced and too temperamental. I have had over 8 of them an never had an issue but there are too many documented cases of the breaking.

Thank you very much.

I thought SPUHR was a solid option since I’ve seen it used frequently by active-duty personnel.

I also appreciate the suggestion of the ARC M-Brace — its features seem to fit my needs well.

 

[R_A_W]

When I loosen the four small screws on the elevation dial, I understand they are meant to release the dial from the zero stop plate. After that, I turn the internal adjuster to re-zero. However, I find the internal movement quite heavy and not smooth.

I’m not sure I follow… you loosened the 4 clutch set screws & then the ZeroStop clutch is still difficult to rotate?

And are the turret screws generally known to be soft or prone to deforming?

No, they are not

I’m going to venture a guess that you’re over-torquing the set screws, both the turret & clutch set screws should be torqued to a mere 4 inch-pounds