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Gunsmithing Baffle Strike! Help!

jbgleason

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 3, 2010
71
1
58
North LA
So I built up an 11.5" SBR with a 11" LaRue rail. Great looking rifle but when I installed the SureFire flashhider/suppressor adapter I found that it set back just far enough to keep the locking ring on the can from engaging. I read the SureFire manual where it said IN BOLD to not use a crush washer with this device. I understand that the hider indexes on the shoulder of the barrel and that helps it stay concentric to the bore. So what did I do? I ended up spacing the hider out far enough to engage by using not one but two crush washers. It fits perfectly. Hold any and all observations on how stupid this was please. I am beating myself up enough since I went to sight in and noticed some huge variations in POI. I checked and, yes you saw it coming, I had a baffle strike with a slight dimple on the exit hole from the can. Good news is the can didn't explode or get horribly damaged. So I pulled the can off and got the rifle zeroed. So here is the question...

My buddy has offered to machine a solid spacer the same width as the two crush washers but trued on both ends to square. So if I crank the flash hider down against the spacer and it is square to the barrel shoulder, should I be good? Or does anyone have a different suggestion? I specifically bought this can to run on this rifle but don't want to go to a shorter rail based on how I shoot (I hold the rail way out front).
 
Re: Baffle Strike! Help!

If you are spacing it out then that means your not using all of the threads available. You should have him machine off enough of the rail for the adapter and can to fit properly.
 
Re: Baffle Strike! Help!

I personally would not tempt fate twice. With an expensive can on the line, I would just machine 1/2" off the end of the rail or find someone who'll trade you a 10" for the 11".
 
Re: Baffle Strike! Help!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: field</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you are spacing it out then that means your not using all of the threads available. You should have him machine off enough of the rail for the adapter and can to fit properly. </div></div>

This sounds like the best solution. You're talking about losing .26" of engageable threads- there may also be a thread relief in the mating flash hider, so you might be losing .060-.13" there, resulting in a suppressor that would be mated with as little as .24" of threads.

I could see losing some threads and being fine but more than 50% of the threads is a bad idea. IMO

It's too bad you had an issue-
 
Re: Baffle Strike! Help!

You guys are right. I guess I was looking for another option simply to avoid having to take the rail down. I am going to just cut it back 0.5" and install the hider as it was designed. No need to risk the can again.