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Barrel change on the Q Fix

BravoSector1

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  • Oct 26, 2011
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    Idaho
    I've decided to hang onto my Q fix for hunting in Idaho later in retirement and thought about access to barrels, and the barrel change, at a later time. The barrels are available now and the Kit Badger video on youtube seems straight forward for those of us who have built AR10/AR15 gas guns. They have a link to their barrel change manual but its a dead link. Any source for the manual or advise on the barrel change here? Thank you in advance.
     
    I don’t have a source for a manual but someone has linked you to an instruction sheet. I do have some advice on changing barrels and nothing else to do. At some point you’ll notice that the rifle is less accurate than it was. I typically wait until my groups are greater than 1 1/2 moa before I change my barrel. You might decide to try a different caliber and need to change your barrel. Your reasons might be all together different from those. Whatever the reason may be if your barrel requires changing I recommend that you change it. 🧐
     
    Yup, I'll be picking up a 6.5 creedmoor barrel. It's currently running a Proof Research carbon fiber .308 barrel.
     
    I changed mine. I'm not very mechanically minded at all, but it was easy enough. I followed the torque specs from Kit Badger's Deep Dive videos since I couldn't find them elsewhere.

    The cherry bomb was an issue as I didnt have a barrel vice or a way to grab onto my Proof sufficiently to put 35ft lbs on the cherry bomb without hurting things. Had a local gunsmith help me with that one.

    Shoots good now though. Good luck!
     
    Remove top rail, be careful of the bolt release/spring at the rear. Remove handguard. Make sure bolt is back or removed. Ideally hold the barrel with a vice and loosen barrel retaining nut. Remove barrel. Reinstall everything reverse process and hold new barrel with vice to torque. I believe the barrel nut torque is 35ft lbs and the torx should be all 50in lbs. Be careful and make sure the bolt release and spring are properly seated or you can bend you rail. Ideally just start the rear screw in the rail first and run it all the way down but don’t tighten until they’re all in.
     
    I swap between 6 creed and 308 quite often now and it is always +/- a .1 mil at most from where it was but that's probably because I hand tighten the barrels.

    I use a vice block for the AR10 mags to hold the rifle and the fix multi tool. https://www.liveqordie.com/products/the-fix-multi-tool/

    Be aware that the the two screws in the top of the receiver might spark when you break them loose, so watch any flammables on the bench.

    like redneckbmxer24 said, start the all the screws in the rail but then push down on the section of rail over the receiver to verify the bolt stop and spring is installed correctly then run those two down first.
     
    New to forum. Sorry. I posted wrong place can’t figure out how to delete. Really sorry for hijacking post.
     
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