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Gunsmithing Barrel Vise and Action Wrench

Dragonetti

Dragonetti

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Oct 24, 2018
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I received a Tikka T3x lite .300 WSM earlier this year as a gift. I am looking to convert it to a 7SS or 7 SAUM. I am looking for a barrel vise and action wrench to help remove the barrel. I have read some horror stories on the difficult of this endeavor. I am thinking of the Wheeler Action Wrench and Brownell's Barrel Vise:

Action Wrench

Brownells Vise

Bushing

I was wondering what bushing size should I purchase for the light hunting profile of the barrel?

Also, I am going to put a heavy palma barrel for the 7mm, so I know I will need two different bushing.

Drag
 
Dragonetti said:
I received a Tikka T3x lite .300 WSM earlier this year as a gift. I am looking to convert it to a 7SS or 7 SAUM. I am looking for a barrel vise and action wrench to help remove the barrel. I have read some horror stories on the difficult of this endeavor. I am thinking of the Wheeler Action Wrench and Brownell's Barrel Vise:

Action Wrench

Brownells Vise

Bushing

I was wondering what bushing size should I purchase for the light hunting profile of the barrel?

Also, I am going to put a heavy palma barrel for the 7mm, so I know I will need two different bushing.

Drag
Click to expand...
call brownells and ask. Likely the tapered bushing for the sporter weight
 
I looked at the action wrench, Does the Tikka have a flat bottom on the receiver? If not it's the wrong wrench. One tip on removing a barrel, you cAn put a 4' bar on the wrench And nothing happens. Put the wrench on a hit the handle as hard as possible with a dead blow hammer or 2-4# sledge. The impAct breAks them loose. Be aware some manufacturers apply a sealant to the threads. A soldering iron in the chamber will get it warm enough to pop it.
 
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My Wheeler action wrench came with bolts that were too short. Beware. And my Tikka barrel had to have a relief cut before it would come off.
 
I use a Mechforce barrel vise. It uses no bushings and works really well. It requires no bushings.

They have a scratch and dent model and that's what I bought.

mechforce-usa.com

Mechforce Barrel Vise for Hunting Gun, Rifle, Gunsmithing, Benchrest, Clamp

Mechforce is an American designer and manufacturer of top quality military defense and consumer products, including firearm accessories, everyday carry tools and metal fidgeting toys.
mechforce-usa.com mechforce-usa.com
 
i use Bald Eagle. but the last and only factory barrel i removed from a Tikka was nearly impossible to remove.
 
I make this:

www.longriflesinc.com

LRI SuperDuty Series: Professional Gunsmithing Barrel Vise

The "LRI SuperDuty Series" of products are made to answer the need for commercial-grade tools specific to the gunsmithing industry. These tools have been vetted in our own facility for years (sometimes in excess of a decade) prior to being offered to the public. The SuperDuty Barrel Vise has...
www.longriflesinc.com


To keep this from happening:

www.snipershide.com

Gunsmithing - Does Remington have Silverbacks barreling thair actions ?

Holy sheet ! I just finally got the barrel off a brand new Sendaro profile Varmint 700. GD it has been years since I pulled a barrel off a 700, between the sealant/locktite whatever crap they use,and the torque used I managed to break two Oak barrel holders I use in my Farrel barrel vise. Even...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com


1597342990449.png


1597343008365.png
 
LongRifles Inc. said:
I make this:

www.longriflesinc.com

LRI SuperDuty Series: Professional Gunsmithing Barrel Vise

The "LRI SuperDuty Series" of products are made to answer the need for commercial-grade tools specific to the gunsmithing industry. These tools have been vetted in our own facility for years (sometimes in excess of a decade) prior to being offered to the public. The SuperDuty Barrel Vise has...
www.longriflesinc.com


To keep this from happening:

www.snipershide.com

Gunsmithing - Does Remington have Silverbacks barreling thair actions ?

Holy sheet ! I just finally got the barrel off a brand new Sendaro profile Varmint 700. GD it has been years since I pulled a barrel off a 700, between the sealant/locktite whatever crap they use,and the torque used I managed to break two Oak barrel holders I use in my Farrel barrel vise. Even...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com


View attachment 7397754

View attachment 7397755
Click to expand...


I want one of these, but I am not sure if I can justify the price, with my three to four rifles. If I was a shop, I would have one in a heart beat.
 

Ross Precision

www.rossprecisionmt.com www.rossprecisionmt.com

I use this one and I've really abused it, You can put it in a bench vise or hold it in a shop press. I never used the field expedient method. I have removed remington factory barrels with it.
 
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A barrel vice is a life long tool....
Buy the best. The one time you get a stubborn one it pays for itself.

On bad ones I use 2. One I made on the a ton that is locked by recoil lug and the other on the barrel.
 
LongRifles Inc. said:
I make this:

www.longriflesinc.com

LRI SuperDuty Series: Professional Gunsmithing Barrel Vise

The "LRI SuperDuty Series" of products are made to answer the need for commercial-grade tools specific to the gunsmithing industry. These tools have been vetted in our own facility for years (sometimes in excess of a decade) prior to being offered to the public. The SuperDuty Barrel Vise has...
www.longriflesinc.com


To keep this from happening:

www.snipershide.com

Gunsmithing - Does Remington have Silverbacks barreling thair actions ?

Holy sheet ! I just finally got the barrel off a brand new Sendaro profile Varmint 700. GD it has been years since I pulled a barrel off a 700, between the sealant/locktite whatever crap they use,and the torque used I managed to break two Oak barrel holders I use in my Farrel barrel vise. Even...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com


View attachment 7397754

View attachment 7397755
Click to expand...
Then LRI unit is the TANK of barrel vises
 
Praeger said:
The Viper is good enough for moderate applications of torque, but it only contacts the barrel at four points. The channel in the Viper (and similar vises) are more of diamond shape with radiused corners. The bushing style vises, make nearly full surface contact.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Was not aware of that. What do you consider moderate torque? I have an origin so I'd mostly be using it to swap prefits to 70 ft lbs.
 
AlpineSniper said:
Interesting. Was not aware of that. What do you consider moderate torque? I have an origin so I'd mostly be using it to swap prefits to 70 ft lbs.
Click to expand...
The Viper will be fine for that. It could probably go up to 200 ft/lbs if you tightened the bolts enough. For any barrel installation, there is no problem. It's removing stubborn barrels that exceeds their grip.

I was working on a Tikka factory barrel, with the Viper tightened down as tight as I could get it with a 18" breaker bar but the barrel would still slip when I smacked the action wrench handle with a hammer. Bought the Brownells vise with aluminum bushing and on the same rifle I broke the barrel free with the first hammer strike of the action wrench (also Brownells).

The non-bushing vises like the Viper are quality tools, just understand their limits.
 
Praeger said:
The Viper will be fine for that. It could probably go up to 200 ft/lbs if you tightened the bolts enough. For any barrel installation, there is no problem. It's removing stubborn barrels that exceeds their grip.

I was working on a Tikka factory barrel, with the Viper tightened down as tight as I could get it with a 18" breaker bar but the barrel would still slip when I smacked the action wrench handle with a hammer. Bought the Brownells vise with aluminum bushing and on the same rifle I broke the barrel free with the first hammer strike of the action wrench (also Brownells).

The non-bushing vises like the Viper are quality tools, just understand their limits.
Click to expand...
Yea I have a mechforce which is very similar. Great for installs and brakes but USELESS for removing a stubborn 2010 Rem 700 factory barrel. I had it so tight I actually started to gall the threads on the bolts........

One thing I did to mine was mount it on a 2 x 3 x 8 inch piece of aluminum bar. That way it clamps into my heavy vice at will instead of bolting it down.


mechforce-usa.com

Mechforce Barrel Vise for Hunting Gun, Rifle, Gunsmithing, Benchrest, Clamp

Mechforce is an American designer and manufacturer of top quality military defense and consumer products, including firearm accessories, everyday carry tools and metal fidgeting toys.
mechforce-usa.com mechforce-usa.com
 

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I use my barrel vise in a hydraulic press, tighten it as needed. Doesn't slip. They make some bench top models that would work good, I just use a 20 ton floor model. It's made life a whole lot easier.
 
I would suggest the Brownell's vise (or better yet, Chad's if ya got the coin) and the Brownell's wrench.
I've used the "Universal" head on the Tikka- flat on the bottom and V-up top holds the receiver well- just be sure to torque the fuck out of it so it won't begin to spin on the receiver.

I believe you will need to turn/machine (or epoxy mold) a custom bushing. A LOT of taper on those barrels- there is no section of straight shank that'll grab them. When I did my first one four or five years ago I couldn't keep it from spinning in the barrel vise. Chad suggested a "slurry" of some aluminum oxide out of the blast cabinet mixed with some oil (instead of rosin). Worked like a charm...

If you don't need/intend to save the barrel, a relief cut just ahead of the shoulder will make life a hell of a lot easier...
 
An alternative to the custom bushing or slurry, is a 2 " piece of lead formed from wheel/fishing weights to fill in gap from barrel taper. It will form fit and can be reused.
 
If you don’t care about damaging the factory barrel, an action wrench and pipe wrench will do the job. I used a Northland shooter supply wrench to remove howa factory barrel. I just had to get longer screws from home depot since I needed to flip the top portion of the action wrench to work on howa’s flat bottom.
 
Wannashootit said:
I would suggest the Brownell's vise (or better yet, Chad's if ya got the coin) and the Brownell's wrench.
I've used the "Universal" head on the Tikka- flat on the bottom and V-up top holds the receiver well- just be sure to torque the fuck out of it so it won't begin to spin on the receiver.

I believe you will need to turn/machine (or epoxy mold) a custom bushing. A LOT of taper on those barrels- there is no section of straight shank that'll grab them. When I did my first one four or five years ago I couldn't keep it from spinning in the barrel vise. Chad suggested a "slurry" of some aluminum oxide out of the blast cabinet mixed with some oil (instead of rosin). Worked like a charm...

If you don't need/intend to save the barrel, a relief cut just ahead of the shoulder will make life a hell of a lot easier...
Click to expand...

I agree. Brownells vise and Brownells universal wrench. I’ve popped three Tikka factory barrels off, and two Sako TRG Factory barrels off. A little powdered sugar or a sheet of paper helps a bunch. I use the lead sheet with the aluminum collets to fit the taper properly. Both sold by Brownells. Grip the action about 3/4” from the barrel. Closer and the wrench will clamp on the threads and hold the action onto the barrel. I give it a few whacks with a heavy hammer/sledge. Works great. I use a normal Barrel vise and wrench to torque the action and barrel back together with a little anti-seize.
100ft/lbs. If the action has a picatinny rail on it, I will either remove the rail, or use a 12” metal ruler (from a carpenter square) as a shim.
 
www.shortactioncustoms.com

Modular Barrel Vise Kit - Short Action Customs | Custom Rifles

Buy Now Now available: Modular Barrel Vise Kit What is included in the Modular Barrel Vise Kit? Barrel Vise Upper Barrel Vise Lower Connecting Link with 2 black oxide precision ground alloy pins Grade 8 1/2 x 20 TPI cap head screw (3/8 Allen) with Grade 8 washer ARCA Mounting Base with 2 1/4 x…
www.shortactioncustoms.com

./
 
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I have been making barrel vises and action wrenches for years.
1) I learned that 1/2-13 bolts in any grade can snap in a barrel vise. I use 7/8-14 like reloading die threaded rod. 1/2-13 is fine for action wrenches that do not have to create huge forces of compression to increase the coefficient of friction, like when gripping a barrel.
2) I learned that the action wrench must support top and bottom in at least one cross sectional plane down the axis of the receiver. That means there is a mistake in the otherwise great gunsmithing book by MacFarland. Put a Mauser action in that wrench and there will be a bind. This can be fixed with a relief cut.
3) I learned that Rem700 actions in action wrenches [that look like barrel vises] can pinch the threads and cause galling. I now use the wrench that goes inside the action and turns against the bolt lug race ways.
 

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Recently received this from SAC. I have a Bighorn TL3 and a couple of barrels. Initially used a cheap 21st century vise, but quickly realized it left a lot to be desired. I really like the hinged design of the SAC vise with one bolt to tighten. Very easy to load the barrel into the vise, and the Arca mount base plate is really cool. I mounted the base to a piece of 2” square tubing that I can slide into my receiver hitch. It’s a solid piece of kit that will last a lifetime and never leave you wanting for more.
7C04294E-A287-4709-9148-23C3ACCA4CF6.jpeg
 
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Dragonetti said:
So, you would use the lead instead of the aluminum inserts?
Click to expand...
No, if you don't have the correct tapered bushing (some sporter contour barrels taper dramatically) you can use lead to fill in any gaps between the standard bushing and the barrel rather than buying or making a custom bushing. You still need a bushing.
 
Praeger said:
No, if you don't have the correct tapered bushing (some sporter contour barrels taper dramatically) you can use lead to fill in any gaps between the standard bushing and the barrel rather than buying or making a custom bushing. You still need a bushing.
Click to expand...
Ahh ok, I guess I will see if it fits once I get the vice in. I might need to find a bunch of fishing weights.
 
Curious...
Anyone ever tried pouring Cerrosafe into a bushing instead of using epoxy?
 
I have used my Viper barrel vise to remove a couple of Mauser 98 barrels that were assembled close to a 100 years ago and not treated in a pristine environment. The Viper vise choked on a couple of Howas and Tikkas. they required a relief cut.
I thought I would add this as an additional data point over the capabilities of a common vise.
 
I bought a lightly used Tikka T3x in stainless. Got a Wheeler #1 action wrench and had to buy longer bolts but it worked great. Bought a Wally Cooper barrel wrench with a variety of Al bushings off eBay. That didn't work at all, barrel kept slipping, so I bought the SAC tapered Tikka bushing. Nice piece, fits great. The nubs only fit on the sides, should have paid the slightly more and gotten the SAC Bravo vise.

However, even with a 3' cheater and a dead blow hammer, the barrel wouldn't budge. I ended up having to send it off to LRI anyway. They had no problem torquing it off, I don't see any marring I didn't cause, and I had it back a week after I sent it (during the Sturgis rally too). YMMV obviously, and the wrench and vise worked great to put on the new barrel, but I kinda wish I would have just started out sending it to LRI.
 

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Last edited:
Eric_F said:
I bought a lightly used Tikka T3x in stainless. Got a Wheeler #1 action wrench and had to buy longer bolts but it worked great. Bought a Wally Cooper barrel wrench with a variety of Al bushings off eBay. That didn't work at all, barrel kept slipping, so I bought the SAC tapered Tikka bushing. Nice piece, fits great. The nubs only fit on the sides, should have paid the slightly more and gotten the SAC Bravo vise.

However, even with a 3' cheater and a dead blow hammer, the barrel wouldn't budge. I ended up having to send it off to LRI anyway. They had no problem torquing it off, I don't see any marring I didn't cause, and I had it back a week after I sent it (during the Sturgis rally too). YMMV obviously, and the wrench and vise worked great to put on the new barrel, but I kinda wish I would have just started out sending it to LRI.
Click to expand...
I think part of the problem with your Cooper barrel vise/SAC bushing combination is you have the bushing perpendicular to the vise. The bushing is resisting the vice. I suspect you'd get more grip if the gap in the bushings were in the same plane as the vise. The nubs fit in the SAC vise to keep them in proper orientation.

Try the Brownells bushings. They don't have the "nubs".
 
Agreed, not ideal to use that combination of vise and bushings. But I got a ton of torque out of it anyway, almost cracked my (cheap) work bench.
 
Well, a little kroil soaking, a lot of profanity, a few scratches, and I finally got the stupid thing off. I did not mark the receiver, but the barrel receive a little scuff.

Now to find a nice 7 SAUM barrel and figure out what to do with .300 WSM barrel and plastic stock.

Anyone need a .300 WSM barrel, tikka stock, and magazine?

I am thinking either 183 gr Sierra Match or 180gr Berger Hybrids... Any suggestions on prefit or nut barrel?

Drag
 
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Dragonetti said:
Well, a little kroil soaking, a lot of profanity, a few scratches, and I finally got the stupid thing off. I did not mark the receiver, but the barrel receive a little scuff.

Now to find a nice 7 SAUM barrel and figure out what to do with .300 WSM barrel and plastic stock.

Anyone need a .300 WSM barrel, tikka stock, and magazine?

I am thinking either 183 gr Sierra Match or 180gr Berger Hybrids... Any suggestions on prefit or nut barrel?

Drag
Click to expand...
I've been getting great results from the 183SMK and RL23. 3050fps from a 29" barrel. Lots of shops making shouldered prefits for Tikka. Nothing wrong with barrel nuts, but my preference is shouldered barrels. Always check headspace after installation regardless.

Here's a SH thread with some good information: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/7-saum.6252684/page-4
 
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