What is the best carbon cleaner for a break down pistol can, safe on anodized aluminum baffles?
Suppressors Best carbon cleaner?
- Thread starter Laseredge
- Start date
CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover). Available at the local grocery store, Home Depot, etc...
I wouldn't soak stuff in it over night or anything, but dump the bits in there scrub 'em off with a plastic bristle brush, and dry 'em off. Make sure that you get all the CLR off... once all the carbon is removed I'd rinse everything off with plenty of warm, soapy water, then let everything dry.
I wouldn't soak stuff in it over night or anything, but dump the bits in there scrub 'em off with a plastic bristle brush, and dry 'em off. Make sure that you get all the CLR off... once all the carbon is removed I'd rinse everything off with plenty of warm, soapy water, then let everything dry.
Thanks. I tried clr on the blast baffle, but didn’t let it soak long enough. I’ll let it soak longer next time.
In addition to CLR you might try Slip 2000 Carbon Killer and Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover. I have used both with good results.
Phil G
Phil G
CLR will eat away aluminum, now will it eat enough to chew through a baffle is another question I cant answer, but it does effect it. Ive used boretech C4 and a brass brush but thats only ever been on steel brakes. Brushing removes it much faster after short soaks to loosen it up a bit than just soaking on its own which seems like it would have taken days. Soak, brush the top layer off, soak again for the next level etc until clean.
How about contacting the can manufacturer and see what they have to say ? They might tell you about a cleaner that is the cat's ass, or, be too conservative and tell you to use something that they don't have to worry about damaging their product (which may not clean anything). I'd suggest that you give it a try anyway.
B
Bigdaddy03811
Guest
Carburetor cleaner does wonders... it also strips paint but it's AL safe.
Have you tried any of this? I'm definitely gonna give this a try when my suppressor comes in.
LRM Technologies, LLC Silencer Solution & De carbonizer is great.
personally don't worry about getting every last bit of carbon or copper out. I'm pretty sure its right back in there after I fire one round. I have found Boretech Elimanator to do a sufficient job day in and day out. I do use Remington 40X cleaner about every 3-4 hundred rounds on a patch and wore out brush. About 10 strokes normally does it and then a few wet patches of Bortech to get all that stuff out. Before I used any abrasive cleaner on a premium barrel I would call the manufacture and ask them. Some of them do not approve of JB or Iosso and it will void any potential warranty.
Sea Foam is safe on aluminum and plastics. It hasn't stripped paint from the engine block or lower unit either.
Many people use it to winterize their marine engines and it stays in the cylinders for 6 months at a time.
I used it to remove carbon from an old 1979 Johnson 2 stroke 25hp engine.
Ran like a scalded dog after that.
It's available in spray or pourable from a can.
Many people use it to winterize their marine engines and it stays in the cylinders for 6 months at a time.
I used it to remove carbon from an old 1979 Johnson 2 stroke 25hp engine.
Ran like a scalded dog after that.
It's available in spray or pourable from a can.
Bore Tech C4 works well for me.
Pick the big chunks off with a dental pick then reassemble. Silencers work best when dirty.
I'll vouch for the CLR method that Okran primarily brought to our attention. It works wonders on stubborn carbon deposits but I would be cautious. Most suppressors use some form or another of stainless steel so most cans should be just fine, just double check component material specs. I remember someone stating that Thunderbeast recommends this method on their cans (primarily made of Titanium) but i would call or ask a rep first. My memory is not all that reliable.
Last edited:
