With all the reviews of the various scopes taking place, I thought I would offer up a little advice on the process.
The biggest problem with conducting a box test is, people generally don't use enough adjustment in order to identify any potential issues with the scope.
A lot of people will mimic box tests seen in magazines and feel that simply moving the scope to shoot in a square is enough to test tracking as well they usually mention something about the return to zero. This method leads you down a dead end street.
In order to successfully test you scope you need to move the adjustments at least 24" in limited areas, and even further if youK have the ability to do so. Any errors in tracking will usually only appear when the adjustment range compounds the problem enough to become visible. A 6" or 8" box test is not enough, you should test the tracking across 100% of the max effective range. IE, the dope necessary to reach 1000 yards with a 308 rifle.
Don't let the gun rags fool you, those box tests conducted on an 8.5" X11" piece of paper are meaningless.
If your range won't let put a large target board up, at least strive to check the scope to 24". This usually will be enough to identify a problem. As has been stated in some of the excellent reviews done, you don't need to shoot the rifle to test, but that process can be done during things like break in if you are so inclined.
With a mil based scope, you can first check the reticle spacing then simply read the reticle out without measuring the targets ahead of time. It's good practice to help mil reading and ensures the turrets match the reticle. You can do this with any matching system if you are using something other than mils.
It's important to take the time and do this right. It builds confidence in your equipment as well it help identify small problems. You can use a level or plumb line and check that the reticle is tracking square and straight, then you can add in windage to bedsore everything works together.
It's a fun exercise so don't shy away from it.
The biggest problem with conducting a box test is, people generally don't use enough adjustment in order to identify any potential issues with the scope.
A lot of people will mimic box tests seen in magazines and feel that simply moving the scope to shoot in a square is enough to test tracking as well they usually mention something about the return to zero. This method leads you down a dead end street.
In order to successfully test you scope you need to move the adjustments at least 24" in limited areas, and even further if youK have the ability to do so. Any errors in tracking will usually only appear when the adjustment range compounds the problem enough to become visible. A 6" or 8" box test is not enough, you should test the tracking across 100% of the max effective range. IE, the dope necessary to reach 1000 yards with a 308 rifle.
Don't let the gun rags fool you, those box tests conducted on an 8.5" X11" piece of paper are meaningless.
If your range won't let put a large target board up, at least strive to check the scope to 24". This usually will be enough to identify a problem. As has been stated in some of the excellent reviews done, you don't need to shoot the rifle to test, but that process can be done during things like break in if you are so inclined.
With a mil based scope, you can first check the reticle spacing then simply read the reticle out without measuring the targets ahead of time. It's good practice to help mil reading and ensures the turrets match the reticle. You can do this with any matching system if you are using something other than mils.
It's important to take the time and do this right. It builds confidence in your equipment as well it help identify small problems. You can use a level or plumb line and check that the reticle is tracking square and straight, then you can add in windage to bedsore everything works together.
It's a fun exercise so don't shy away from it.
